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Had been meaning to do a short write up to share my experience when I did a DIY installation/replacement of my old 2-channel dashcam (front and rear) with a new 2-channel dashcam, and also to rant about the shitty worksmanship that I got from the "professional" workshop that did my previous dashcam installation. I had read up quite a bit on DIY installation of dashcam before deciding to take the plunge, and boy did I learn a lot from it! Dismantling the Old Dashcam So I started from the rear camera, and start ed pulling the wires out from the head liner. My fuse box is on the left side of the front passenger car seat - I had checked this out in advance and was ready to install the new dashcam to draw power from this fuse box. #1. Started pulling out the old wires, and when I saw the wires going towards the driver's side (right side), I started to have a bad feeling about the old installation... #2. As I slowly pulled the wires out from the rear of the car to the front, I saw that the wires were being stuffed into the headliner in front of the plastic clips, with the plastic clips pressing onto the wires and creating a kink in the wires: #3. So I continued pulling and eventually revealed the excess wire - which was bundled into a messy bunch of spaghetti and haphazardly taped together... and shoved behind the kick panel at the pedals: #4. Eventually when I tried to disconnect the electrical wires for my old dashcam, I saw that it was tapped into an existing spliced-open electrical wire: Opening up the electrical tape, I saw that the wire was just twisted and mashed up onto the existing wire... ... and that splice was done just a few centimeters away from an adaptor that plugs into the socket! (wtf!?) #5. Then tracing the wire back down the line towards the camera... I noticed that one of the wires from the old dashcam (circled yellow) was spliced onto an existing already-spliced wire (circled red)! (WHAT THE F!@#?) Eventually I got all the wires dismantled. And then sealed up all the splices so as not to short out the other electrical components. Installing the New Dashcam I initially thought I could reuse the route that the old dashcam installation had taken to the front of the car - but unfortunately I had to carve myself a new route from the rear of my vehicle to the front fuse box I started from the back of the car, and routed the wiring cleanly towards the front: Ran the wires up the A-pillar and threaded all wires behind any plastic clips so they wouldn't get snagged or get kinked when the headliners are smacked back into place. Now here's the fun part - in all the research that I did online via website and YouTube tutorials, not one of these guides/tutorials suggested splicing open existing electrical wires in order to supply power into the new dashcam. It's either: 1) Use the cigarette lighter port - i.e. plug the dashcam into the USB/cigarette lighter port, OR 2) Make use of fuse taps (like the ones below) and tap into the car's internal fuse box (not the engine fuse box!) I needed to have parking power enabled for my dashcam, so I used a 12V tester and tested out all the fuses in my fuse box to see which one I could make use of. Eventually I settled for the constant power fuse serving the Door lights (25A) - the camera needed only 2.4A so I put in a 3A fuse: ACC power was 15A, so again, that stayed the same and I put in a 3A fuse for the new dashcam: The final installation looked definitely a lot better than the old installation job: Afterthoughts I truly wonder what the f@#$ I had paid for when I went to the "professional" workshop to install my old dashcam - I had paid a labour fee for it back then($50), and truly was not expecting this kind of half-baked job that spliced into any open/live electrical wire without any thought given to it. I did not go and trace which existing live wires the workshop had tapped into (ABS? Airbags? ECU?) - I guess it's a moot point to go after such things at this point in time. And for those guys who leave reviews saying the workshop they went to install their dashcam (or any other electrical components) is "Very good! Top notch service!" - is it REALLY good worksmanship that they provided? Or is all the horror revealed when you pop open that kick panel? Just sharing my experience that it seems a faraway dream to expect a workshop to do up such installations in the correct and proper way... Also, in the recent wake of increasing reports of cars catching fire all of a sudden - is it really surprising? To me, not really. I have been to several workshops for electrical issues or installation of electric components, and each one did wiring in exactly the manner as I described above - splicing open any live wire without bothering where it comes from, or where it leads to. Sorry for the long post with the heavy use of images. Thanks for reading, and feel free to share your experiences. Stay safe everyone! Have a good week ahead!

The reliable cable/wiring in aircon installation for home that I have read about is the Keystone or Sigma brand. I was quoted a system 2 using Eikou wiring. The salesman told me that it is a Singapore company. Does anyone here has any experience with the Eikou wiring. Thanks.

Hey bros, Long story short, I bought an Android head unit that was supposed to be compatible with Renault Clio. But turns out it's only compatible with the wiring harness of the lower spec version of my car. The spec sold in Singapore comes with a TomTom unit which uses a different set of connectors. This is what it looks like And this is what I need Any bros know of anyone which can help me? Thanks!

TOKYO: Toyota Motor Corp said on Wednesday (Sep 5) it planned to recall around 1.03 million vehicles, including its gasoline-hybrid Prius model, in Japan, North America, Europe and other regions due to an issue with the engine wire harness which can pose a fire risk. Following a domestic recall announcement by Japan's transport ministry, Toyota said that in affected vehicles, the wire harness which connects to the hybrid power control unit can come into contact with the covering at the connection point. If dust accumulates on the wire harness or the cover, the insulation on the wires could wear down over time due to vehicle vibrations. This could cause an electrical short circuit, which could generate heat and lead to a risk of fire, Toyota said. The issue affects vehicles produced in Japan between June 2015 and May 2018, and includes the plug-in version of the Prius and the C-HR compact crossover SUV sold in Japan, Europe, Australia and other countries. Roughly half of the recalls would take place in Japan, Toyota spokesman Jean-Yves Jault said. Only the Prius model would be recalled in the United States, where around 192,000 vehicles were affected, he said. Jault added that the issue had led to one incident of a short circuit in Japan, which produced smoke from the vehicle. In Singapore, a total of 4,115 Toyota Prius cars are affected by the recall. Borneo Motors, the authorised distributor for Toyota in Singapore, said it will reach out to Prius customers to check their vehicles, and if necessary, conduct repairs at no cost. Read more at https://www.channelnewsasia.com/news/world/toyota-recall-1-million-prius-c-hr-cars-over-wiring-issue-10686252

yesterday I doing some diy job to remove the foot light installed previously. when I tried to remove the wires I think it got shorted and I can see smoke and sparks coming out from the fuse box at the driver side. Now the driver door is always open and I cannot lock my car using remote. what could be the worst can scenario and also which workshop is good at troubleshoot this kind of issue? Any workshop in the west would be good.

I was wondering how to hook up a sub if you have one or two voice coils, and how it affects the impedance, which of course determines what kind of amp you should be looking for. This website shows you the various wiring options and the effect on the impedance the amp sees: This is the 1sub 4ohm 2 voice coil model: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/How-to-Wire-One-Dual-4-Ohm-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer You can play with the options and see what suits you best.

After I installed my car alarm and in-car camera, I have been experiencing battery drain... basically from time to time if I do not drive the car for a few days, my battery may end up being fully discharged. This has happened a few times in the last few months already. Initially, I thought it was a battery issue but after having it checked at autobacs and also with a battery test device that I bought, I found the battery to still be working fine. I also thought it was because I seldom drive but recently I have been driving alot more and the situation still remains. I am now suspecting that the mechanic who connected the equipment to my car did not do a good job and had resulted in something being shorted inside thereby causing the drain. Is there any recommended workshop who is good with these things and can check out the connections done to my car, maybe with a multimeter to figure out if something is draining my battery away unnecessarily?

no, not selling them myself, but ordered for my car. http://www.vcam.eu/solar.html i wanted something with no fuss and no wiring, and this looks like it fits the bill. should be here in a few days ... price was pretty reasonable considering there aren't many solar dashcams available (except for that ugly flower pot one i see everywhere) i'll post some sample videos once i receive it and hook it up to my car ... just thought some of you bros might want to consider if you are lazy like me and dont feel like doing any wiring. (plus, if this one is good, easy to move between cars) only problem i forsee is battery dying, but hopefully there's some sort of audible alert (as it comes with cigarette adapter as well) i was communicating with the seller from march or april when i found his site ... he just launched the item 2-3days ago (but he shipped mine last week since i was following up with him every now and then) fingers crossed it works as advertised

Any recommendations where to do this in SG or in JB ? Passed by pin liang and asked for a quote and they gave chop carrot head price ... Another shop at toh guan quoted me 40$ (inclusive of the 12v adaptor) Thanks

Hi I replacing my existing T5 batten on my cove ceiling to LED strip light. I notice the previous electrician had this wiring connection 2 black wire (N) - 1 connector 1 red wire (L) - 1 connector 2 earth wire (E) - 1 connector instead of 1no of each N,L,E from my LED. How do i connect?

hey guys. kinda dumb question here. the florescent lamp of my fish tank burnt out i found the base of the lamp holder chao tar... so i dismantled it and bought a replacement.... problem is i have no idea how to plug the wire back inside? doesn't seem to fit anywhere! and nothing to tighten! hahaha... i attached some photos to help you guys understand the problem... hope something can help... thanks in advance!

Hi bros & sis, I'm looking at DIY-ing my car, thinking at installing LED lights beneath my 4 doors. Idea is to make them work like door-light. When the doors are open, the light will automatically on, similiar to the cabin/room light. Hence, i'm thinking of 'tapping' to the cabin light so that when the doors are open, both the cabin light and the door lights will be on, and off automatically when the doors are closed. Anyone able to advise how to 'tap' to the cabin/room light wiring? Im driving a nissan latio. thanks in advance! :)

to all the bros out there!! i am driving a honda cvic ESI.. and i realise my head light cover, both, is not smiliar... 1. is there anywhere tt i cn get cheap cover?? probaly, used 1? 2. am using those H4 bulbs, bt white in color, and i realise one side of my bulb lik a fuse only, bt there is a dim ORANGE light coming out frm it.. so i asume light spoil liao, so i buy new 1, bt den agn, same problem.. and prevly, my normal beam and high beam = no DIFFERENT! so wht is exactly the problem?? is there any shop out there, whrby u guys send in ur veh fr wiring issue?? care to share w me? my history of gg mech shop is nt very nice.. so am kinda afraid.. hope you guys wuld b able to help me !! 3. and my light gt 1 pair of bulb is those mini ones, am thinking, is it possible to buy those LED bulbs frm supermarket and fix it myself?? 4. chnging engine oil, chnge those mineral oil, 5k better or 10k better?? cuz to me, lik no diff lidat.. roughly how much u guys chnge? together w oil filter n spark plug?? any good mech shop agn to share?? guys, really pls help me out!! am drain finacialy, and cnt aford to b a carrot!!! thks all !!

My forester sg5 the window control have intermittent prob. Anyone knows any shop that does wiring?

while taking a shower i suddenly heard some noise and when i looked up the wiring above was i think burning(for arnd 2 secs) and emiited quite a bright light. anyway after that the heater stopped working. i quickly switched off the switches and taped it so that no one switches on the switch. let's say if the heater and switches are ok and it is just burnt wires.... how much will it roughly cost to get it repaired? pls share i'm gonna call the repair person soon and perhaps get a rough quote so i need to roughly know how much the repair will cost. thnx!

i got a spoiler that comes with brake lights, but its not working because last time when installing the spoiler, i didn't wired up the brake lights. so now i feel like doing it. any cheap and honest workshop that i can go to? the spoiler is already fixed up. i think the ws needs to uninstall the spoiler and do the wirings.... any recommendations? if i can do it now, (today Sunday), better still....

Hi all, Have the intention of DIY installing power mirrors and fog lights on my ride. Just to check, is all the wire laid in our car meaning just buy the gadget/switches plug and play or do we need to run additional wires ourselves? If we need to run additional wires, any seniors has the wiring diagram? Tried searching the web but no avail. Thanks in advance.

Guys, a friend recently did the following items for me but it wasn't like I wish they could have been setup. 1. Fixed foot well lights (driver and front passenger foot area). I asked him to fix to the connection used by door open (door open, lights on), just like the behaviour of my cabin light. Eventual setup was lights (foot well and cabin) came on when door open but foot well lights went off after first key turn (door still open). When door closed, cabin light went off (correct behaviour). While engine is running, only cabin light came on when I open the door, not foot well lights. 2. Fixed LED scanner to my stock alarm. Upon locking car, scanner came on, and upon unlocking, scanner went off. I thought this is the correct behaviour until I moved off, central locked the car from inside and found the scanner activated (turned on). My questions are these: 1. My requests above are possible, correct? The behavours are due to incorrect wiring, right? 2. Where or who can I go to to fix my setup? Fyi, my car is a Chevy Optra Magnum. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

does anyone have? please contact me at 91858210 thanks

Hi Need to have my car lock on my car replace and also to have the necessary alarm connected to this door. Any one know of experience workshop who have done it before. Pls recommond me should you have come across it. Thanks you very much..

Can any DIY gurus please shed some lights on the following? 1a) I bought a reverse camera for my existing LCD HU which has such inputs; a reverse camera video-in and a blue wire that's label "reverse signal". Where exactly to connect this blue wire to get the signal from? Is this signal simply a 12V+ or GRND? (I may install an override switch to turn on this camera without engaging reverse gear too) 1b) Also, for the power input to the camera (which will be placed near the license plate) do I simply tap from the reverse lamp's wire (i.e. cut out the wire sleeves) or is there a more "elegant" outlet where installer always tap? 1c) Where do ppl normally run the long wire from the HU to the rear? On the side, normally it's run from the side of roof-top or bottom (underneath the scuff plates)? 2a) I've purchased a car DVR from overseas and decided to install it myself. Where do I tap power DIRECTLY from the car battery so there is no need to start engine to draw power? Ya, I'll install a switch too, just in case... 2b) In general, is there a "central signal box/control" where I can tap signals like door open/close, engine start/off, alarm arm/disarm, etc? I plan to link these to the DVR sensor input too... haha, I know... ppl may say I'm but really it's part of the fun and I like to learn too. Anyway, please give specific instructions as I'm quite a noob, but managed to open up my central dash board... THANKS!!! p.s. I'm driving a toyota altis 1.6

Any bros hav the wiring diagram, pins and connectors for my 1.8A toledo ECU. Need it to trace ignition, fuelling, TPS, Lambda and airflow signals to the ECU, some mod awaiting Thank you

$500 izzit expensive or normal ??? wat will you be getting for $500 ???

Im adding dome light to my interior and thinking of connecting it to the front map light, question will it over load the fuse ?? In future I will add lights under the dash and wonder where to get the power from. I'd appreciate any help and tips, thank you.

i was just thinking. let's say u have 2 speaker cables, each has a + and -. so essentially u have 4 cables, just that they are "stuck" in pairs. if u want to supply 3 speakers with 4 cables, in theory, i believe, you could do this: use one cable as a common ground (negative). they split and run to the 3 speakers (one of the terminals, depending on phase). the remaining 3 cables carry the other part of the signal (conventionally positive, unless inverted phase) and connect to each speaker's remaining terminal. in theory it seems to work. i wonder if anyone wanna shoot me down. target.....TARGET......