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Hello gurus, Need your advise here, am experienceing aeroplane noise on my tweeters whenever I step on the gas pedal. Had install a microfilter but the noise can still be heard alittle. However, if I switch off my air con, the noise will be reduced by alot. Any idea wat went wrong ? Tried re-attach and tighten the cables of my amp but it does not helps.

I had just transferred my audio system from a previous ride to my current ride. during the installation of the speakers on my current ride, the workshop had informed me that one of the tweeters for the component speakers at the rear is not working anymore, so i had asked them not to install the tweeters. The midrange and crossovers for the rear doors were installed, but without the tweeters, the rear passengers can only hear muffled vocals and music. as an novice audio fella, i ask these questions... 1. can i buy these tweeters and install them in place of my faulty tweeter? Amazon tweeter 2. will the crossovers for the existing speakers be able to link up with these replacement tweeters? 3. should i buy a new set of component speakers instead of just these tweeters?

This is going to be long but essential, gotten it from another forum in another part of the world...introducing some professional knowledge to the forum, of course, not from me...enjoy... ------------------------------------------------------ Much in hifi is the product of folk lore. However, within reason, speaker placement is not. That's not too say that speaker placement has to follow rigid rules, it doesn't, quite the opposite. But there must be a reference point, and thus a reason for that reference point. That reference point is to start with the speakers at a height where the tweeter is at or about ear level. Toe-in and rear wall reinforcement are separate considerations, and are relative to different speakers. The reason for ear height placement is due to in part to the initial localisation of sound, and from then, the definition of a stereo signal. Localisation occurs in the very first instance of a sound, if the sound reaches the right ear first it is to the right, etc. In order to facilitate/maximise the accuracy of this process, initial sonic reflections should be minimised. In practice, therefore, tweeters need to be at or near ear level, and the speaker toe-in adjusted so that the initial sonic event is correctly localised. The level/requirement of toe is very much dependant upon the listening room (the likelihood of reflection, etc), and the speakers themselves, (the radiation pattern from a speaker baffle being a factor of the baffle size, the drive unit layout, and the crossover, etc). Once localisation has taken effect, stereo separation is reliant upon the fact that there is space between the left and right ears, and thus a time delay in sound from the left reaching the right ear, enabling the brain to perceive that the sound is from the left. Room reverberations/reflections then come in to play with regard to spaciousness, soundstaging, and imaging. There is also an incidental benefit of correct localisation in the Haas effect which prioritises the localised incident sound over reflected sound (assuming enough time between the incident and relected sounds, and that the reflections are of low enough order), and reduces the perception of response deviations that may be caused by said reflections. With respect to tweeter beaming and the resultant sound quality from a tweeter, I agree that the sound is hardly pleasant on it's own. It is, however, critical for initial localisation, and subsequent soundstaging and imaging. Yet, whilst it is true that playing a tweeter alone will result in a poor response, that is irrelevant. The response is from the loudspeaker and it's collection of drive units, which sum to give an overall response, rather than considering the response of an individual drive unit. And this is all the more relevant when crossover types are considered and their consequent effect on phase response and radiation pattern. Now, this essentially pertains to domestic audio, and much is unattainable in an in-car environment. However, the rules apply equally, it just means that real soundstaging and imaging in-car is very difficult. The most common approach to soundstaging in-car is the placement of tweeters at dashboard height. Naturally this brings sound upward from the door/kickwell, but it does not generate a soundstage, and is of little benefit with regard to imaging. Why?. Well, the ear is at it's most sensitive at frequencies at the upper part of the vocal range 1kHz - 3kHz, and tweeters play very little of that range, most being filtered at around 3kHz. Now, at this point many people will say that the output from the tweeter is ultra-directional, and yes it is, but that is actually detrimental when the tweeter is disparate from the mid-bass. Why?. Because the tweeter has an ultra-directional output that the ear localises, and uses as a reference for stereo separation (see above), however, the sensitive vocal frequencies are likely coming from the door or the kickwell. This creates multiple point sources (reflection notwithstanding), and naturally multiple path lengths between each source and the ear, which then create vagaries of phase and time alignment as DaVitch mentioned. As I said, this is difficult to circumvent in-car. One solution is the application of mid-range higher in the car, essentially in place of the ubiquitous tweeter. Why?. Well, as mentioned above, the ear is sensitive to vocal frequencies, and their reproduction higher in the car will improve soundstage height and imaging. Bear in mind that treble remains important, and it cannot be forsaken for mid-range. But, treble must be coincident with mid-range for the effect to work satisfactorily. This can be achieved with coaxial type drive units, or closely placed components (of course, the ease of fitting rather depends on the target vehicle). Such a system then leaves the mid-bass, which is absolutely critical. Mid-bass speakers should be used that have maximal reliable low frequency response, so that low bass output is not concentrated at the rear of the car from a subwoofer. Much is stated about the directionality of low bass, or rather the perceived lack of it, and most of it is nonsense. 80Hz is barely acceptable, lower being extremely beneficial. In many respects the upper end response of the mid-bass is determined by the supplied filtering. However, it is better to apply DIY filtering that limits the onset of directionality from the mid-bass. The transistion into directionality starts when the diameter of the speaker equals half the wavelength. The transition frequency (as with much filtering) can, and often needs, to be tweaked. To run such a system successfully it really needs to be multi-amped and actively filtered. It is also likely that the mid-treble combo will need equalisation, but that depends on their location, and their susceptibility to reflection from glass and other hard surfaces. At the end of the day it is important to know that an in-car system will never stage/image as well as a domestic system. And that includes serious installs featuring path length compensated kick builds and horn loaded mid/tweets. So it is a matter of how far you want/need to go. A set of tweets on the dash is far easier, and will lift the sound. In the majority of cases such a system can be made to sound acceptable, and that is often all that is required.

Hi All, I'm new to ICE. Just wondering if its possible to just add tweeters to my stock speakers(non-component speakers)? If its possible, is it just simply connecting the +ve and -ve wires of the tweeters to the stock speakers? Please advise. Cheers Orac

Hi guys, i have very obvious crackling sounds at higher frequencies with my pioneer HU after going active while listening to radio. Listening to CDs is great though. Are there anyways to reduce this high pitch crackling? Also, my speakers will sound whenever there is a incoming mobile signal eg. sms or call. is this due to poor installation or not avoidable? Thanks!

There are crackling sounds from the tweeters last night on my 3 weeks old db speakers. What could be the cause? Guess I need to go back to my installer.

Hi all, The tweeters on my component speakers seems to get softer and could hardly hear any sounds from them. The 6.5" speakers are still okie and they are 3 yrs old. Me using low end component,Pyle is the brand. So shd I change the whole component set or juz change the tweeters?

So a couple weeks back my installer was listening to my setup, and he told me my highs are quite not there, there are missing high frequencies. Another installer had told me similar, he said my tweeters cannot reach >14Khz, and I got the same comment from another bro who listend to my car during the one MCF meetup I attended (I was using some PC speakers then, but sorta tuned to my liking) Then I had the chance to listen to a couple of competition-ready setup at my installer, also a couple of bro's setup during one MCF meetup i attended. Indeed the tweeters in these car setups have much more powerful sounding high frequencies compared to mine. In a good way, they may be described as airy, detailed, open and fast. In a bad way, they may be viewed as aggressive, raw, grating and fatigueing. I could even say these setups seem to make studio recorded tracks sound like unplugged/live versions! Now I am referencing my own car setup with my quite good headphone rig at home (de-jittered digital input into outboard DAC, dedicated headphone amp, on a few studio quality headphonese etc.) and I do feel that my car high frequency sounds right. I even tested my car and headphone setup with some test-tones. Highs are all there and no probs at all (and in the process I found out that my right ear can hear up to 16.5Khz, left ear can hear up to 17khz) Here is my dilema: on one hand, I always thought headphones usually best recording reference, but on the other hand these overly bright setups use high-end equipment and are winning car SQ competitions. So my question is, does anyone here share the same feeling that high-end car setups have overly bright tweeters? Especially for bros with high-end home-audio setups, are these cars giving an accurate presentation of the recording? Or is it because after a few years into car audio the owners start losing their hearing for high frequencies and keep tuning them higher and higher? Appreciate any comments, though I hope I do not get a lot of 'to each his own preference' replies. I know that, so come on and give me your opinionated replies!

hi guys, Using an Orion amp with orion component speakers, now the problem is that, the sound is like 'too clear', or sharp. i've already lowered the treb to the max, but some music i play with vocals, are DAMM sharp, freq damm high and its really a pain to my ears. anyone out there can help me out on what to do? CHeers guys..

hi guys, currently my setup is alpine 9807 HU-> 4 ch amp -> front component speakers n sub. no rear speakers. i'm thinking of getting a 2ch amp solely to power the front 2 tweeters of the components. my aim is to get better high pitch sounds n more clarity. can u guys comment/advise me on this as i'm still quite new to ice. thanks guys.

Due to a stuck CD-changer (been like that for 3 months already), I finally brought it for repairs only to be told that I may as well just buy a new HU with MP3 functions. I was advised that it is not worth it to repair my CD changer as there is no guarantee that the problem will not come back again. Eventually, I took the plunge and got the HU mentioned in the subject and got a pair of tweeters as I was guaranteed a vast improvement in the sound department. What a bl00dy difference it made and it was the best 400 bucks (traded in the old system) I spent! Even though I didn't get the top of the range stuff as I'm not into ICE at all, I still thought the difference was well worth it. Just want to share my experience with others who may be in the same situation.

Hi guys, Just trying to get an idea usually how you guys mount your tweeters to get you desired soundstage. Anyway, the poll os just for fun ..... Cheers

hi audio freaks here... was wondering how far the tweeters muz be place from the speakers and x-overs.. heheh can put far far away anot..

Hi, i like to find out from the G9 owners where they place their tweeters. I've heard several innovative places to mount the tweeters like what Cool and Koolaba suggested. All very innovative. May i ask where do the rest of u guys mount ur tweeters? Is it via a drill hole in the door? In the air vent? At the kick panels? Any suggestion would be appreciated.....