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Anyone DIY? Brought a thrttle body cleaner at Mr DIY, loosen the air duct, ask my kid to step on the accelrator when I on the igition swtich without starting the car. Open the e throttle, use a rag, spray the cleaner and clean it... Less than 10 mins job, spend less than $5. Remove battery terminal and reset the ECU, and start cleaning the battery terminals using steel brushes. Apply copper grease on the terminal and connect it back. Required Materials for this How to Clean a Throttle Body ProjectHere’s a list. Paper towels or rags Throttle body cleaner Gloves

saw that 3m has a product to clean throttle body but couldn't find it at autobacs, any idea where can i find it? or is there a workshop that can help me do cleaning for a reasonable price?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Lxa-GHEQo4 Video tutorial on how to port and polish a vehicle's throttle body. In order to do this procedure, you must remove the throttle body from the engine so you can probably polish and port the throttle body and the material shavings do not enter the engine. This isn't much of a horsepower increase if any, but it does help with throttle response and reduced the build up of residue on the surface of the bore. Do not remove any material from around where the throttle plate touches in the bore either. Also when doing this procedure, I would recommend purchasing a new throttle body gasket so you won't have any vacuum leaks once reinstalling. Make sure you don't take off too much material either where it will affect the structural integrity of the throttle body. When doing this type of work, make sure you wear safety glasses for your own person protection. Procedure: -remove the throttle body from the vehicle -clean any oily build-up inside of the throttle body -remove the butterfly from the throttle body, most are held in with 2 screws that go into the shaft -if you can, also remove the shaft and linkage (some shafts are pressed into bearings, other are not) -if you can't remove the shaft, no big deal you just have to work around it -tape around the shaft or the hole where the shaft was so no metal shavings get into that area and cause premature wear for the bushings or bearings -depending on the finish of the throttle body's bore, there may be edges which you can to smooth out -in order to smooth out those edges, you can use grinding stones for either a drill or rotary tool such as a Dremel -when using a grinding stone, it's best to use WD-40 penetrating oil with it so the aluminum material doesn't plug up the stone and it'll no longer cut away any material -once you are satisfied with the sharper edges being ground down, you can down move onto sanding drums for the rotary tool -you can also flare out the bore where the air enters slightly so it has a smoother air flow into the throttle body -you can even port match the throttle body to the intake if the throttle body is smaller -if you don't have access to a rotary tool and sanding drums, you can also use flap wheel drum sanders that can be used on a drill -the flap wheel drum sanders are available in a variety of grits such as 40, 50, 60, 80, 120, 180, 240, and 320 -when using the flap wheel drum sander, you can add water to help with finer sanding as to keep the dust down -if the surface isn't too porous such as what is shown in the video, start out with a finer grit like 120 and move your way up -once you have reached the highest grit in a flap wheel drum sander, you can now do some sanding by hand with 400 grit and add some water for lubrication -once satisfied with your product, you can now move up to an abrasive like Scotch Brite -depending on the color, will depending on how course the abrasive pad material is -I started out with green and then moved onto the red pad for the finest compound -you can also use water with this too to help finer sanding and to keep the dust down -again once you are satisfied, you can now move onto a metal polishing compound -the metal polishing compound I would recommend is Eagle One -apply the polishing compound paste and rub until highly mirrored finish (multiple coats can be applied to achieve a higher polished surface -once you are done with the bore, you can now move onto the throttle plate -most throttle plates are smooth to begin with so you can skip directly to the Scotch Brite stage using the same procedure and finally move onto the metal polishing compound -once done, you are ready to reassemble the throttle body -make sure you peen the thread of the screws on the other side to ensure they don't come out or apply Lock Tight thread sealant -install new throttle body gasket along with throttle body to your vehicle

Hi All I just got news that i need to replace my throttle body for my Mit Lancer. It costs 1241. Anybody got a better solution to this? No money leh, so how??????

anyone installed DTE pedalbox? any feedback? just want to remove the lag between acceleration.

Hi all was wondering wat brand of throttle controller is good. Because i find that my throttle is irresponsive and the gear don't tends to change down when i floor my vehicle. And roughly wat is the price if i wan to install it ?? any bros with lobang can intro also ^^ Thanks

Does anyone know where to buy DIY throttle body cleaner? I used to buy amsoil power foam from mx tr**ding, but they no longer sell amsoil product. I had checked at autobacs, they do not sell also. Brand can be any: STP, CRC, Volvoline, Voltronic E60... etc. Thanks.

Anybody letting go of their TPS which is in good condition? Otherwise third party TPS reliable or not? Thanks in advance.

I just purchased a Freepower S Drive and got a mechanic to installed it for me.. it was supposed to allow me to select the type of acceleration response I want ..eco or sports... so far it seems to show fuel economy.. will see how in another month or so... Any bro also using it?

Only saw one topic in regards to it. But anyone adjusted it. Why? example the cable is slack. But acceleration is fine but very weak to climb up hill and feel acceleration pedal have a mild vibration when accelerating. My mounts is due to be replaced but does it have any link to it.

I am looking for an e throttle controller cause I find the throttle laggy but can't find any brands that could fit the car. Anyone knows if there are any e throttle controllers meant for the Satria Neo or Proton cars?

hi! as the title says it all "Anyone knows what E-throttle proton persona/gen2 using?" and also do provide the hardness size too! it will be great info for us! and also how much isit! thanks in advance guys.. james

hi all i believe i may have damaged my TB's seals by cleaning it using strong solvents & now my idling & accelaration are rough & hits a flat spot at 2500 rpm & thereafter will increase very slowly even though am maintaining accelarator pressure. anyway to check & repair or must change? damage? ok to get recond or advisable to get new part? anybody have 1st hand experience & can point me to a reasonable workshop? thanks

Dear Bro Seek all bros advice on this matters pertaining to the Pivot 3 Drive Controller.. Does changing of battery affect the existing settings of this device? Meaning to say after changing of battery need to make the settings again in order for it to be in working order.. Thanks

Hi all i have a Gen2 about 6 years old. Sometimes i encounter a behaviour with my car. When my car stopped at a junction and when i wanted to move off, i stepped on the accelerator the car will vibrate (like those manual cars going to stall) and there's no throttle at all. But when i release the pedal, the car continues to move slowly normally in Drive gear mode. i noticed that when i try to step more on the pedal when moving off or in very slow speed (probably in 1st gear), i will not experience this. This behaviour is getting more frequent. Everytime i need to switch off the engine and switch on again den i can drive off. i just went for my servicing last month where i changed the engine oil and automatic gear oil. anyone knows what might be the cause of this? Thank You

Got some problem with my throttle cable and accelerator this afternoon. The accelerator pedal was very hard, feels like its stucked. cant be press at all... after a few tries, it went down and the RPM goes up and stop there without coming back down. I immediately off my engine, found that the Throttle Body is stuck in Open Position instead of Close Position even after i release the accelerator. I had to manually turn back the Throttle Body. The cable seems very stiff, doesnt pull smoothly as before. dont know if its going to snap soon or what. when i was driving back home in the morning there was no problem at all. it only happens when i start my car a few hours later. Anyone knows any good workshop near hougang that can fix the problem. Thank you very much....

I like to 'play' with the gas pedal and upshift gear although the car has an auto gearbox.... have you tried it??

Have search posts but couldn't find any related topics on my queries hence decided to post a new one. Currently am driving a 220k km WIRA 1.3, from 1996, which majority of the components are from Mitsubishi. Recently have encountered an intermittent problem. The issue is related to the throttle response. Let me describe further below, and hopes anyone who encountered this issue can advised me. Sometimes during light acceleration, when stepping on the accelerator, there is no response (ie doesn't feel power at all), then seconds later, the response came back, and it is like a sudden kick in of the acceleration. Not due to air-conditioning. There were times when maintaining constant accelerator pressure, the acceleration suddenly kicks back and then resume again (something like a newbie disengage the clutch abruptly). Then at times it can be driven smoothly with light accelerator depressing pressure. I have encountered this issue with an EG civic before, but the car was scrapped soon after. I am not sure if this is an issue with high mileage car. But this issue can be really a pain when driving the car in slow traffic because the acceleration isn't smooth at all...

Hi Bros, I'm wondering what are the benefits of a throttle body mod? Can someone enlighten me here? Any side-effects? Thank you.

When throttle body is dirty, whats the cause of it? If i dun clean or repair, which cost $300 over dollars, what will happen?

I am wondering is E-throttle better than traditional cable throttle? Cause I realise than despite my pathetic Satria Neo having just 1.6L NA engine, it appears to have better low end torque compared to my old Celica GT4. I can change gears at 1.5K RPM and go uphill on 5th gear @ 40KM/H. Something I can't do with the Celica. Yet it still consumes less petrol. Kind of weird. Of course, top speed and acceleration wise, the Neo cannot match the Celica lar. But light city driving, acceleration no problem. Perhaps the E throttle is able to control the optimum amt of air going into the engine? This is the first time I drive an E throttle car so I don't know. All my previous cars are cable ones.

Any workshop in Singapore do Quad Throttle Body? Means I have to take out stock intake manifold and fix in quad throttle body custom made to my ride. I wish to retain EFI, so do not wish to convert to motorcycle (big 750cc or 1000cc motorbike) quad caburettor like what modders in other country do to their ride.

Hi pals, Yesterday one of lights in my car panel lighted up. Today the mechanic told me the throttle body is dirty and needs servicing. Just wondering how many km does your car go before the throttle body needs servicing. Mine just about hit the 30km mark. Does such servicing interfere with any part of the functions of the engine? If it doesn't I am thinking of bringing them to a neighbourhood workshop which should be cheaper. Also has the dirtiness of the throttle body got anything to do with the petrol we are using? Previously I heard from others that the lower the octane the dirtier the fuel. Previously i did use 95 octane before.....so i was wondering whether this has any impact.

I just did a thorough throttle body cleaning by a workshop. Is it normal for the idle to show more reading than usual? Previous idle is 750rpm With air con,850rpm Now after cleaning, the idle shoot to 900rpm With air con is 1000rpm

Hi bros, Yesterday my ride's engine died repeatedly when it was idling. After re-crank also died. The idling speed keep dropping unless I stepped on the accelerator. Sent my car to workshop and they called me telling me the throttle valve needs replacement and will cost $600. Told me if replace throttle body will be $1200 (which is not needed). Just want to know from the experts if $600 is too ex to replace the throttle valve? Got carrot? Appreciate your response :)