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Showing results for tags 'cornering'.
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Safety Bars (also known as Strut Bars) are one of the most easily found aftermarket accessory that help to improve the handling and stability of your car. Benefits of Safety Bars Body Roll The body roll of the car will be reduced with installation of safety bars. This improves the stability of the car, especially when cornering. Chassis Friendly Safety bars are designed to absorb the impact and minimising the possible damages due to the chassis in an event of collision. Chassis Flex Reinforce the framework of the car and minimise chassis flex, which will improve the handling and safety when driving. · Quality Assurance With ISO 9001:2008 · Proven in Worldwide Motorsport Event · Life time Warranty · No modification or drilling is required Interested to know more about Ultra Racing Strut Bars? Fill the Form Below for any enquiries! We'll be glad to be able to assist you
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- handling & safety
- safety bars
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Hi Starlets, I'm on a Weber. When I'm cornering hard LEFT, with the clutch engaged, the engine will have a very noticeable stutter and jerk, making the subsequent acceleration less responsive. With the clutch disengaged (free wheeling), the engine dies off, which is pretty dangerous cos I lose the power steering. Seems as though the carb is starved of petrol in the float when cornering left. This does not apply if I'm cornering right. Do any of you guys on Webers experience this scenario? Is it due to the orientation of the carb in my car? Your reply is greatly appreciated =)
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I would gladly appreciate if there are any Swift technical experts could help me in this.My ride is Swift '07 1.3MT. Scenario: Was travelling home as per normal at SLE.approaching Mandai exit,slowed down and dropped gear from 5 to 4.While the clutch is still depressed and slight braking and maneuvering the corner,out of sudden,the engine totally dies off! No power,no lights,no aircon and even worse,power steering is also lost! For a full 3 seconds,i was not in control of the car. Then out of a sudden,everything went back on and the engine restarted by itself!I thank God that my family is safe and nothing happened while i'm taking the corner. The question is,what causes it to happen?Battery is fine(less than 6 mths old),no professional ICE(juz radio HU),normal Pivot (blue) VS with grounding.No hardcore modifications done,only got SIMOTA carbon air filter. Can any bros here help me on this?I heard from a friend that there are Swift owners who experienced the same problem with me.What is the exact problem?I think i need to rectify it ASAP coz i always go up north and don't want anything serious to happen(touch wood!) Many thanks in advance
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1. Sometimes, someone will mention that they need a heavier set of wheels which provide better stability during cornering. Others might felt that a car with lighter set of wheels will degrade its road holding ability. 2. However, rims, tyres and the brakes are just unsprung weight, which are all not supported by the suspension and is more proned to road shock and cornering forces. By reducing the weight of your rims/tyres, you get more precise steering and cornering. Hence, the weight of your wheels will affect your car's road holding ability. 3. Hence, performance tyres and light weight rims do provide better control to the cars. Regards,
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Anti-roll Bars The primary function of anti-roll bars is to reduce body roll by adding to the roll resistance of the springs. An anti-roll bar, also referred to as a stabilizer or sway bar, is a bar or tube which connects some part of the left and right sides of the suspension system. On independent suspension systems, the connection point is usually the lower control arm. Most cars have a front anti-roll bar, and most sports cars are going to have both a front and rear bar. After market bars are going to be stiffer than the stock ones. Roll Resistance Anti-roll bars are used to reduce body roll during cornering. They add to the roll resistance of the suspension springs for a higher overall roll resistance Because the primary purpose of the spring is to maintain maximum contact with the road surface over imperfections, we must settle for the roll resistance provided, and it is rarely enough. The anti-roll bar adds to the roll resistance without resorting to an overly stiff spring. A properly selected anti-roll bar will reduce body roll in corners for improved cornering traction, but will not increase the harshness of the ride, or reduce the effectiveness of the tire to maintain good road surface contact. So, how does limiting body roll improve handling? The suspension system geometry (the lengths and connecting points of its parts) of a street car is designed to keep the bottom of the tire parallel with the road for maximum contact patch. At rest, the car's suspension has a particular geometric relationship to the road surface. Body roll changes that relationship, and reduces the suspension's ability to keep the tire parallel to the road. During body roll, the car body is no longer parallel with the road, and neither is the suspension geometry. Even though the suspension allows the wheel to be somewhat independent from the body, the high cornering forces, and resulting large body roll of a factory car, on the track take the suspension close to its limits where it affects the angle of the wheel. Large amounts of body roll cause the wheels to tilt away from the corner which lifts the edges of the tire and reduces the contact patch size. While this can be compensated for by having the wheel purposely tilted inward to start (adding negative camber), there is a practical limit to this which is not enough in most cars to compensate entirely for the body roll. The anti-roll bar reduces the amount of body roll, and therefore helps to maintain as much of the contact patch as possible. As with all good things, more is better only to a point. Because the anti-roll bar connects the left and right sides, this reduces the independence of independent suspension. Too stiff a bar, and you can cause too much loss in the ability of the left or the right wheel to independently respond to road surface imperfections. The purpose of suspension is to maintain maximum tire contact with the road. The purpose of independent suspension is to allow the left and right wheels to each seek that contact separately. The left wheel may need to be going down when the right needs to be going up. If they were tied together as with the old floating rear axles, one or both of the wheels is not achieving maximum contact. In fact, too stiff an anti-roll bar can actually cause an inside wheel to lift completely off the ground during hard cornering. When cornering, the bar will twist with the outside end being pushed down, and the inside end being lifted (just like the body of the car). On the outside tire, this downward pressure helps increase tire traction. However, on the inside tire, the anti-roll bar is pushing up on the suspension reducing the downward force the spring is trying to place to keep the tire on road. If the anti-roll bar is too stiff, it will overpower the spring, prevent it from extending enough to keep the tire on the road, and the wheel will actually lift off the ground. This is not an optimum situation, but it is common in several racing classes. The cause is not so much poor engineering, but the limitations of the class rules that allow the engineer to compensate for it. Roll Coupling The anti-roll bar is also used to tune the roll coupling of the chassis. Roll coupling is the relationship of the roll resistance of the front of the car and the roll resistance of the rear. The balance of the roll coupling, because of its effect on traction, has influence on whether the car has a tendency to understeer or oversteer. While this can be caused by several factors, the anti-roll bar (especially, an adjustable one), can be used to compensate. As we mentioned, the anti-roll bar helps increase the mechanical downforce of the outside tire during cornering. This increases the traction of that tire, and that end of the car (front or rear). An increase in traction at that end, may leave the opposite end with too little traction. An imbalance of traction occurs, and one end of the car will lose traction before the other end. If the front tires lose traction before the rear tires, the car will understeer. If the rear tires lose traction before the front tires, the car will oversteer. Changing the anti-roll bar stiffness can adjust this out. Summary The anti-roll bar reduces body roll to keep the suspension geometry, and ultimately the tire, parallel with the road. Stiffer bars reduce body roll more, but too stiff a bar can deteriorate independent suspension performance, and ultimately cause an inside tire to lift off the ground during hard cornering. The anti-roll bar can also be a major tuning element in reducing excessive understeer or oversteer. Used incorrectly it can also cause it. Like other parts you can buy for the car, the "killer" biggest, stiffest anti-roll bar you can buy is rarely going to be the appropriate choice. Look for someone experienced with your car, and can take into account the shocks and springs already installed in your car.
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Anyone saw the one car accident on the cloverleaf from Clementi going down to PIE (city) yesterday? There was a black Mitsubishi Lancer on the grass with the rear wheels on the road barrier (Boot pointing towards the sky and front wheels on the grass)! Driver looks OK. Wonder how he manage to fly the car one metre up there? Maybe he felt that the car wasn't handling the bend well enough and decided to put the wheels the railings.
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Hi! there, everyone, Cornering before the bend arrives Good cornering means good anticipation. Read the road ahead. Position the car to give the maximum vision through each up-coming corner so you can judge your speed. Cornering performance isn't measured by entry speed but by exit speed - go in too fast and you'll just come out too slow; the car will scrub off speed with understeer and you'll probably find yourself on the wrong line as well. Do all your braking and down-shifting in a straight line before turn-in, otherwise the car will be unsettled and grip and stability both reduced. And don't slow the car on the gears. Rgds Paul Yong