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Fellow bros, I'm current driving an avante. Just went for servicing on sat n I did the following. Basic servicing(engine oil and filter changed) Coolant changed Brake oil changed Spark plug replaced Atf oil changed After the servicing, drove out wif family to spend our weekend. Sun went JB n as usual stuck in the jam as well. Mon when I checked the car, found out that the coolant in the secondary tank dropped closed to half. Opened up the radiator and found the coolant level Oso dropped. So I top up wif water for both side and drove off... For the next 2 days, the level at the radiator dropped but the level at the secondary tank remains the same. So I drove bk to the ws today. They tested and jacked up the car n no leakage was found. They came to a conclusion that during the time when they topped up the coolant, it's actually not full yet so the level will tends to drop and it will stablised once the coolant is really full.... I've decided to take a few more days to monitor, but is there any truth in wat they said? Considering the fact that during the weekend I've drove a lot and the coolant shld haf stablised till then...

Approaching 60k+ svc soon. Will be trying to get parts myself to save cost Car is 4 yr old 1.6 turbo diesel. Currently using Castrol Edge 5w30 but thinking to change to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 as offer better protection against high rev/temps esp in hot weather. However not very sure about ACEA grade A5/B5 which is what the Edge is rated at. The SHU is rated at A3B3.. from what i gather it refers to viscosity? Is the SHU compatible with the current engine? From what i gather, ATF wise.. the handbook says it recommends BOT 341 fluid. Not sure what ATF is good.. Using Volvo MPS6. Thanks in advance

Just wanted to ask some general questions about coolant. My car almost 8 years old liao. Was told on my last servicing that coolant was "low condition", required $60 to change. I declined as i already spent some money on changing brake fluid and also replacing my fan/serpentine belt which they said was cracked. Servicing manual says change coolant every 30k. Car is being serviced once a year. I thought it was just a simple top up like washer fluid or what. I didn't look inside the engine bay. So i bought a 2L coolant bottle on 11.11 to "top up". I also watched some youtube videos, so i do know how to release the spigot valve at the bottom of the radiator for my model. To do a full change would probably require somewhere in the level of at least a a couple more litres. Hmm today morning went to take a look when my engine was cold, but the coolant in the reservoir tank is actually above the maximum mark. Then open radiator cap is u can see the fluid level but i know there's no marking inside. So should i buy more coolant and do a full flush? Is the above the maximum mark coolant level in the coolant reservoir abnormal? My engine temps dont seem to have any issue.

after reading the threads i know it bring engine temp down prevents cavitation of cylinder the rest a bit technical for me what i really like to know is the bottom line what does it really do other than protect the cylinders lower fc? smoother engine? my car is on tap water, if no tangible effects then i won t be going to coolant

Was almost home after dinner when overheating light kit up. Turned off engine, opened up bonnet and noticed water was flowing out of the plastic expansion tank at its cap. Radiator itself seemed ok. What could be the cause? Bad radiator cap, blown fan fuse (checking tomorrow), stuck thermostat, bad water pump?

Anti-Freeze or Coolant? A running engine typically converts only one third of the energy from combustion into usable work to drive the car. The rest is converted into heat, and is enough to heat a large house in winter. That’s a lot of energy! While engines are becoming smaller and more efficient, they are still generating extreme amounts of heat, and car body designs which focus on maximizing aerodynamic performance means less and less air is directed to your engine to cool it. That’s where engine anti-freeze/coolants come in to the picture. Knowing what you need is important for getting the most out of your cooling system. So, do you need an anti-freeze or coolant?! You will find that almost all products on the auto parts store shelf are in fact both of those – an anti-freeze and coolant. Technically they are more of an anti-freeze than a coolant. More on that shortly. For an engine anti-freeze/coolant to be effective, it should: • Have excellent heat transfer characteristics; • Possess a higher boiling point and lower freezing point compared to water; • Resist foaming; • Protect against corrosion caused by electrolysis; • Be compatible with the materials in your cooling system; • Work in the environment in which the engine is used; • Be chemically stable. The two main glycols used in engine coolants are ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. These additives, when mixed with water, help to lower its freezing point and raise its boiling point. This means that the anti-freeze/coolant won’t freeze when in extremely cold weather, and won’t boil under operating conditions, as this reduces its heat transfer abilities. Modern automotive engines typically run close to the boiling point of water. Anywhere between 85°C and 95°C. In addition, additives are included to prevent corrosion and rust, and the formation of scales in the cooling system. The three main types of additives are: conventional inorganic; organic or; a hybrid mix of both, depending upon the characteristics required for a particular application. Motul offers a range of engine coolants and additives for almost every vehicles. The Motul Inugel Expert and Inugel Optimal line of ready-to-use and concentrate (Ultra)engine coolants provide great cooling properties and protection for your engine. As seen here above, by increasing the ration of anti-freeze/coolant from 33% to 60% does very little to the boiling point but dramatically reduces your freezing point. For Singapore’s climate, there is no need to go above a mixing ratio of 33% if you use a concentrate product. The Motul Ready-To-Use anti-freeze/coolants are mixed at a ratio of 45% as this is considered globally universal in almost all climates. It should be noted that mixing at a ratio in excess of 50% in Singapore’s climate will cause corrosion to the cooling system of your car. This would include your transmission heat exchanger if your car has one mounted in the radiator which could end up with transmission failure. Using either Motul’s Ready-To-Use or Concentrate anti-freeze/coolants will provide you with reliable ongoing protection in Singapore extreme climate! Inugel Expert is a popular coolant based upon monoethyleneglycol, using hybrid additive technology. Inugel Expert is a Ready-To-Use anti-freeze/coolant and is recommended for all cooling systems for a range of applications including passenger vehicles, construction and agriculture machinery, ships, or in stationary engines. Motul recommends a complete cooling system flush prior to use to ensure the best results. Inugel Optimal’s Organic Acid Technology(OAT) reduces the operating temperature of your engine to maintain full power, whilst anti-scaling and anti-corrosion additives provide long-lasting protection throughout the cooling system. Plus it’s Ready-To-Use mixed @ 45% with demineralised water, so be sure to not add any water. Recommended for all cooling systems for a range of applications including passenger vehicles, construction and agriculture machinery, ships, or in stationary engines. Motul recommends a complete cooling system flush prior to use to ensure the best results.

Hi Friends,my Brother in law's 1 year old Sharan 'drinks' 1.2L of coolant from new,now mileage is 12k Km,today went for 1 st service,Service Advisor told him it is normal for Turbo-charged cars to 'drink' a little coolant,which i don't think so,can any others VW car owners tell me is it true.??Esp those using the EA888 engine[GTI,GOLF R,Audi A5 or Skoda etc],thanks folks.

Hi Needing to top up coolant once a week, are these coolant leaking? Any idea where is the likely source? Is is expensive to repair? Am driving a Skoda. Thanks for the advice.

Hi, Would appreciate some advice here. Mine is a 2007 BMW 523i. A few days ago the warning light came on with "engine oil level too low" so on Sunday I topped up about 2L (maybe a bit more) of Shell Helix 5w40. Today when my wife drove it home the car started to shake badly, and after parking there was a lot of yellow/brownish liquid on the floor. I opened the bonnet and saw what appears to be coolant oozing out of the expansion tank. The tank cap still looked intact, though. The tank is a genuine BMW one and was replaced a few months ago only. As the car was still hot I didn't dare to open the expansion tank cap. Could this be due to engine oil overfill? But why would that cause coolant overflowing? Or the expansion tank or somewhere in the cooling system leaked (it seemed to be slowly leaking so I topped up with distilled water some time ago)? Could that cause the car to shake? No engine overheat warning came up, though. Any advice will be appreciated!

You might want to skip the coolant replacement at Komoco and have this replacement done somewhere else that uses premix coolant or with distilled water. I was at Komoco for their package C servicing which includes coolant replacement. I was shock to find out that Komoco is not using original Hyundai premix coolant but some unknown brand concentrate and they top up with tap water.. a strict no-no for radiators as tap water creates scaling in the radiator and engine blocks. It is even worst as the technician mixes the coolant to tap water ratio based on their gut feel rather than use measuring apparatus. I was too late to stop them as I found out about their practise of using tap water only after they have replaced the coolant on my car. I got the coolant replaced with Mitsubishi long life coolant at another workshop right after the incident at Komoco. Mind you, owners pay a premium over outside workshop on their service packages. It is only right for Komoco to use genuine parts/fluids for servicing. Other than the coolant issue, I encountered another very unpleasant incident. The service advisor reversed my car into a parked Avante at the quick service centre area. My bumper was scratched as a result but the Avante bumper got scratches and some minor misalignment of the bumper. No news from Komoco regarding goodwill compensation. So I guess Komoco is now out of question for any of my future servicing, their loss not mine. Hyundai owners.. be extra cautious when servicing with Komoco. If your car is under warranty, I guess you do not have a choice. If warranty has already expired, there are many other well established workshop out there that provides better value and money servicing for our Hyundai cars.

This is a test post.

May I know is there any specific brand of coolant that is recommended for use on the Vezel ? Which type of coolant do you use. A lot of important parts is made of plastic on the Vezel if you have noticed to make the engine lighter. e.g. Manifold , etc.. These plastic parts are not the cover for the metal parts in engines of the past.

Hi Just went for a full service and noticed that coolant is at minimum level. Techician check and didnt discover any external leaks.. visual check. Today the coolant level drop again. Any idea what is the course and where can i get repaired ?

my car manual states to use "ethylene glycol base coolant for aluminum radiator mixed with water". The original coolant is green in colour. Where can i buy suitable replacement coolant mix?

As subject. when i went to hyundai stockist, i am surprised they never carry oem coolant. Now using prestone, but i prefer something more for asian cars.

My coolant tank was empty and found stain on the floor . Any opinion on my problem ? What should I do ? Can add water into the coolant tank ?

I bought this pre-stone flush and clean from amazon. After a bit of research, flushing 50/50 will sprung a leak from the cooling loop. Not sure should i do it or not. 2009 Avante, not sure whether the previous owner have done any coolant change so decide to do it 1 time,

Bought the salah type of coolant today from Lee Sun. Wanted the normal Thai made red long life coolant but they gave me the US made pink super long life coolant. Any kind souls here that wanna exchange with the Long life type? Do drop me a PM.

Hi Ladies and Gentlemen, my Toyota Altis' coolant is heated up. I have added water to the coolant but the temperature still does not decrease. What else could be the problem?

Great information on coolant - from KTC website

anyone tried this http://www.evanscoolants.sg/index.html waterless coolant?

Anyone know the difference between red cap and green cap for their coolant? And how long can it last?

Hi, Do you guys check yr coolant & radiator water & at what km interval. I just found out that my coolant tank is totally dry out, and there is still 5k to my next servicing. Thought this water top up can last easily for 10K interval. Unless there is an leak somewhere???

Hi all... Need expert advice... After warranty for my sunny ended. I no longer go to Tan Cheong. I now do my servicing based on my little knowledge of cars... After checking my car's service history... I think I should be in time for a coolant change. I hv heard numerous things abt coolant for the car... *trakies say just water by itself is best for track day... For normal everyday driving a little coolant is good enuf. *old mechanics say water will do... Coolant will spoil the radiator... But I believe its the mixing of different coolants that will react and cause damage. *so I believe safest to put pre-mixed coolant... But cost factor lah... And many pre-mixed coolant I find has anti-freeze... Useless in SG and lowers the efficiency of the coolant. *so I think a coolant made for the tropics without antifreeze makes more sense. *heard that improper mix ratio is bad... But why? I've heard some ppl put 100% coolant concentrate into the radiator... No problems... But that is even more expensive than pre-mixed. So I finally decided after considering for a few days... Earlier in the evening I drained out my old coolant... Only very slight green... Kept pouring a lot of water in until only clear water came out... Filled it up with only tap water (SG water is soft n safe) and turned on the engine for a few minutes... Off engine then drain again... Tis time some more slight green water came out... And I poured tap water till it got clear again... I also took out the whole reservoir and washed it... Sooooo dusty below and could see some rust sediments inside... God... Took a puff while waiting for the radiator to drip dry totally... Then I poured 500ml of Japanese made for tropics green coolant into the radiator (label says 35% mix best...) and topped up a bottle of distilled water. Then I poured a bottle of Gunk radiator additive in... Then top up till brim with distilled water. I poured another bottle of coolant into the reservior n top to max with distilled water... Drove around for 5mins... An hour later I topped up somemore distilled water into the radiator... Now just drove to pick my wife in town. Temp is lower than usual slightly... WOW!!! Maybe my old coolant was very very old... Haha... Now I don't know if i did anything wrong... anyone here has hands-on experience with coolant change? Thanks...

http://to.ly/cgVY diy not complete yet, went back home to take some tools and also have a drink. will update it ps: a video i found similar to my timing belt change in case u cannot visualize what i am doing