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Hi, Need some advice for my ride. I had Blitz R-VIT i color installed in my ride (2007 Toyota Rav4). Recently the battery voltage reading is funny : Morning after cold start it read 13.9 volt. After traveled around 6-7km, when speed up the reading drop till 12.2 volt and if slow down the voltage will go up till 14.3 volt. Stop in traffic light it will drop from 14.3 volt to 12.5 volt. Moving from stand still the voltage will start to drop again till 12.2volt. If I restart the engine again the voltage will go back to normal for a few km and all this will happy again. If I turn on the low beam or headlight, all this will not happen and the voltage read at 13.9 volt very stable. Any suggestion what is wrong? [hur] Battery just change 5 months ago by AA. Thanks for any input.

What are the differences between Grounding of the car and voltage stabilizing? What are the pros and cons for both? Any real performance gain from doing these? If I have done voltage stabilizing on the car, do i still need to go for groundings? Thanks..

Hv any bros here used the E Power voltage stabilizer, think the brand is silvers ? How's the feedback ? Recommended ? Tks

Hello! I have a problem with my 1 month old Estima: While driving suddenly I lost power steering, Speed reading and all the warning lights including Engine, Power steering, traction control and ABS came on. The car remained drivable and the engine sounded the same. Brought it to the service center (PI) and they said it was a bad battery, changed it. Problem happened again and they changed battery again. Finally they also changed the alternator at my insistence but the problem continued. They then blamed the drive camera for draining too much battery. I've been asked to unplug it and see if the error comes back on. I have a HUD which reads real time voltage. I noticed that when in Park, its always 13.8-14.2V. When I drive, for the first few mins it will remain in this range. After that, on the road it will suddenly drop to 12.2V when the accelerator is being pressed. If I stop stepping on the accelerator while the car is moving at speed, the voltage will jump back to 14.2-14.4V. Also when I turn on the lights the voltage will jump to 13.7V. Turning on or off the air con makes no difference. I'm wondering if this is normal behaviour for the Estima or do I have a problem with some electronic control component? Thanks for any advice! P.S. Since this is my first post, I'm not allowed to start a new topic but if anyone is kind enough to help me re-post this in the Japan Car forum, I'll be very grateful for the increased exposure!

Saw it on sales at one shopping center in Sengkang. first time see voltage stabilizer for home. work bo? any user to comment plz

Hi,Just now have been asking a shop that sell ICE and car DVD.I was looking for an average price for a DVD player with bluettooth for my compact car.He says beside fitting the DVD i need to install VS and possibly grounding cables for my drive by wire engine.Now i wanna to ask the pro here is it necessary?I only wanna to fit the DVD that the sound still using my factory fitted clarion speakers.Does it effect the car battery and performance if i doesnt wanna to fit the VS?

Hi all experiencing above after removing drl n wiring. drl was previously installed independent of lighting n came with on/off switch. previously a wire wired / tapped to 7.5 fuse. now removed "unused" (not sure if it's needed / not) 7.5 fuse to see how, as i'm thinking it shorted if unused (me poor in electrical / electronic, so pls tell me if it's not the case). appreciate any advise, especially from those who encountered similar issue.

There are plenty of products out there.. this one's reasonably priced but is it a white elephant? Voltage Stab

I am driving an old 1992 Toyota and I am facing some wierd voltage issues for quite sometime already. The battery reads 12.7V which is healthy. When I start the car, the battery will rea around 13.8-13.9V (indicate charging from alternator). However, when I start to on the aircon fan, voltage will drop by around 0.5V. Turn on head lights voltage drop another 0.5-0.6V. Its so much that I get only 12.xxV when car is running. I tried to measure the output from the alternator and it says 14.15V, but I don't have an explaination why my batt only reads 12.5-12.6V. Does turning AC and headlights really consume that much power and cause that big of a voltage drop?

Can anyone recommend a good voltage stabiliser, with grounding? And also a good workshop to install? Of course, with a good price. Thanx!

Hi Anyone purchase the above product from ebay seller : fsf_cosmos - Fieldaimcosmos worldshop. The price is US$84.20 + $14.00 shipping fee. BTW, is it safe to buy from e-bay and users please share your sincere opinions with us. Many thanks for any inputs.

Has anyone installed VS on their OPC or their rides which they dun use frequently? If yes, any battery dying off early problem, like less than a year?

Dear Fellow MCF Gurus, Intro myself, I am a skeptic who do not trust commercial easily, I have bought products that does not work and it is absolutely a waste of money ... I am very sure that many of the BRO/Sis here who have bought car products that does not work and later you guys worry about these products will have any negative side effects on your precious car, Whenever you check back with the sales rep of respective companies... they will assure you that it will not happen..... BASE on WHAT!, only their words !? Therefore I am starting a test campaign myself, because I want to know. I am calling our for fellow Car lover's support. The Test result will be posted after it has been tested. I do not think it is wise to trust the commercials.... , so called their claim of dyno test of anything.... they all tested by Their companies so what if they have tested and have posted their dyno test, on their website... They are just trying to promote their products only. I dun think Pivot even have a DYNO test. I am curious and cautious therefore I do a personal project, using my own car or some of my friend's car ... to go DYNO myself... I really want to see .. if the products has been BULL SH**ing or even OVER - CLAIMED. I will hereby request for all the fellow brothers/ sisters in MCF if 1 could borrow their VS. I am paying for the DYNO... man .. can only do it part by part. Perhaps monthly or fortnightly a TEST result.... Dyno is real Expensive. Sorry guys, I cannot afford to buy all the products and test it and pay for the DYNO. For instance MAX zone GT is $288. I can do a few DYNO test with that kind of money. The price for a DYNO test is ard $100 plus / hr. I am requesting to borrow the following product below, and I will return it immediately once the test is over. Owner of products can witness dyno test with me. 1) Violence VS 2) Pivot Razin 3) Maxzone GT 4) D1 Spec VS 5) RMK VS 6) Hot InaZma 7) EZ - Stab EXTREME 8) ADM Power pass 9) Power Max Version R I am going to test for BHP gain. Will post the DYNO test result for all to see. I have beginning to feel cheated by all these VS, some of them even claim that they can have 20HP gain. Any brothers/sisters willing to Lend their gadgets for testing? Sorry man i am paying for the test fee out of my own pocket. Will not accept any sponsorship by any commercial companies. Cheers Gimmy Ong

Anybody knows where can I buy this product and any comments from users. Any input is very much appreciated.

My 20k servicing indicated that my battery voltage is 13.7 Can anyone advise me when do I need to change my battery, at which voltage? THanks

Comment are welcome. Must be civilised. Forum policy applies, no flaming and accusation. Thanks.

Serious designs to improve voltage quality in automobile inevitably have to focus on the cyclical surge in power demand particularly from ignition. Such surge is barely met by most alternator-battery designs at rapid rpm changes and as battery ages. Any effective stabilisation of voltage cyclical transcient will certainly benefit the engine at idling and acceleration, often improves FC and its overall cleanliness. For ignition transcient from 850rpm-3600rpm acceleration in 4-cyclinder induction, Cyclical trancient stabilisation has to be effective up to 120 sparks per sec for 4-stroke = 120 Hz (typical elect capacitor rated ripple frequency) = 8.4ms approx For design of voltage stabiliser, recovery at every cycle for the stabiliser must not take longer than the RC time-constant. This recovery is necessary for the capacitor to be charged up before it can be effective to stabilise the voltage in the next cycle. 60,000uF -10% +75% rated at 105deg C Design assumes C=60,000uF* 0.008ohm ESR rated at 105deg C Design assumes ESR=0.01 ohm Resistance of 1m single-core cable (better than soldered/crimpled) Design estimates Rcable=0.10 ohm Assume 1.5V volt-drop (momentarily unregulated) at 50A (600W) Estimated alternator/battery internal resistance Rsource=1.5/50 =0.03 ohm With Rtotal=0.01+0.10+0.03=0.14ohm RC Time-constant=0.14 ohm x 0.06F = 0.0084s = 8.4ms approx CAPACITANCE.............ALLOWABLE CHARGING RESISTANCE 120,000uF**.............0.069ohm 60,000uF*................0.138ohm 30,000uF***.............0.278ohm 10,000uF***.............0.833ohm * capacitance with longest time-constant for possible effective voltage stabilisation based on the above assumptions. SOME CONTRAINTS IN DESIGN OF VOLTAGE STABILISATION FOR AUTOMOBILE 1. **TOO LARGE CAPACITANCE Large capacitance will not satisfy the RC time-constant from the worst-case cable plus alternator/battery resistance eg 120,000uF would require very low 0.069ohm charging circuit resistance not easily attained without very thick wire, low resistance connecting contact, bigger alternator and battery. Once the time-constant exceeds the required period of cyclical transcient, the capacitor will not have enough time to recover the needed energy to stabilise voltage. 2. ***TOO SMALL CAPACITNACE Smaller capacitance has larger ESR and less than the minimum 20A ripple handling capability. Hence, it may not be effective enough in voltage stabilisation although it has shorter RC time-constant. 3. HIGHER RPM CONSIDERATION At higher rpm, the ignition transcient is shorter. It requires even shorter RC time-constant, hence, smaller capacitor and lower circuit resistance. Lower ripple current and lower circuit resistance becomes design constraints (however, typical street acceleration seldom exceeds 3600rpm). 4. EXPENSIVE LOW ESR 105 deg C low ESR capacitor of greater than 25,000uF are expensive (60,000uF can cost SGD50-100). The usual 100%-500% profit margin will prohibit some designers to use such capacitor eg. http://www.rssingapore.com/cgi-bin/bv/rsww...=sgie&Nr=avl:sg 5. HEAT IN ENGINE BAY Furthermore, the high temperature from the engine bay is never suitable to house electrolytic capacitor. A capacitor may be rated at 125 deg C. Its ripple current handling capability is only a fraction of its rating at elevated temperature. In addition, increase leakage current is detrimental to voltage stabilisation. Worst will be the shortening of useful life when capacitor is subjected to prolonged heat close to its max temperature. Proper thermal insulation is essential to ensure voltage stabiliser is not just useful for the first 1000hrs (12 month). 6. TOO LONG CABLE Routing of capacitor to the cooler cabin is not recommended because of the longer cable which introduces substantial resistance. Otherwise the larger RC time-constant or use of lower capacitance will not be effective for voltage stabilisation. Then, is it necessary for a good voltage stabiliser to cost $90-$900?

Use of electronics has its place in voltage regulation of DC power in modern automobile. The regulation usually handles the rms voltage pretty well. However, its ability to handle quick cyclical transcient changes depends alot on the battery response to the transcient demand under the condition of pulsating DC output from the alternator and its regulation speed. POTENTIAL WEAKNESSES OF AUTOMOBILE VOLTAGE REGULATION 1. Quite unlike typical DC power sources which have large capacitor as power reserve to stabilise cyclical transcient voltages, automobile uses storage battery as its power reserve, instead. Large capacitor is usually better in supplying very quick and sharp repeated demand of power than battery, particularly when the battery is already supplementing power to flatten the alternator's rectified pulsating output. 2. If the battery is no longer new, operating in elevated temperature or not in fully charged condition, its ability to handle cyclical transcient voltages is often compromised. 3. DC loadings simultaneously from powerful fans, external lightings and other high power systems can cripple the stability of battery voltage coping with alternator's pulsating DC, hence, affecting the effective electronic voltage regulation. 4. Under fast changing load, the electronic regulation is always slow in responding due to the lagging control of the alternator's field strength. The control circuit needs the time to respond with additional current to increase the excitor field strength facing the inductively opposing field from the loaded power generating coil. 5. Pulsating ignition can then cause significant sharp voltage dip, particularly at instances when alternator's pulsating voltage close to 0V. Extremely short interval of 1V-4V dip cannot be detected by voltmeter which may still show a healthy 13VDC-13.5VDC (rms). Note: Typical ignition primary draws rms current of 3amp-6amp. Assuming 20% duty cycle for ignition built-up, each ignition effectively draws 5xroot2 i.e 20amp-40amp peak for 20% of the time. This is an important consideration for ripple current in order to achieve effective voltage stabilisation. POSSIBLE ADVERSE EFFECT FROM INSTANCES OF QUICK CYCLICAL VOLTAGE DIP 1. This transcient dip is adverse to performance of engine electricals, particularly the ignition itself and other voltage sensitive systems. 2 Ignition energy will be inadequate or even misfires at instances of significant voltage dip. Perhaps, unstable idling and power-lacking acceleration might be the symptoms of such conditions aggrevated with max cold a/con and full headlights. Any comments?

Bought a copy of HOT STUFF today. Blur after seeing so many voltage stab & fuel magnet ads. I am now gathering info for my new ride next month, appreciate any experience and feedback you have on the product. Kum Siah! RMK Voltage Stab $188 w/ 4 pt grounding cable & 4 pair Magnefuel Inazuma Voltage Stab $99 w/ grounding wire & installation Pivot Sound Voltage Stab $105 E-Power Voltage Stab $188 retail Z-Stab Voltage Stab $ ???

Please advise where to get the Hot Inazma MR voltage stabiliser. Any input is very much appreciated

Hey guys... installed RMK voltage stabilizer for the cerifo and it works... now my father is thinking of installing rmk for his own latio too but he heard that changing the spark plugs do help make more fuel efficient. So.. he is thinking of installing the spark plugs first before putting the rmk... Is this adviceable? Or just put in the rmk and spark plugs together?

Hey eople!!! good news.... Remember i told u guys my father installed the RMK V stabilizer ard 1 mth back? or rather during the vesak day wkend? It has shown improvement! Didnt get the figures as my mom wanted to use the esso voucher. So now voucher finally expired. Got the figure. 9.28km/l For the cefiro 200jk, Of course i want a better figure but the previous figure was like ranging from 6.5 to 8. Now its 9.28. 100% city. So.. here i am... living proof to prove that RMK voltage stabilizer helps... HAHA... fyi ONLY...

Heya guys.... my father just installed the RMK Voltage Stabilizer for our Cefiro 2ooJK.... But my mom's the one driving it and she says that it somehow gives more power but.... it controls her speed.... Like she only can hit 60km/h but if she wants to go faster, she has to step alot... any comments on this... beginning to be suspicious of this product. Our initial target is to save fuel only and more power. THANKS