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Anyone tried Redline SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner? Any effect on FC, performance, etc?

I want to buy for my 120,000KM servicing. Where can I get it? i know i can get gtom mxtradging.. any place else?

Hi folks, Anyone here uses Royal Purple and Redline engine oil before ? Which is better for normal sedan cars..like Sunny, corolla,Altis, Latio.

Anyone has used Amsoil AMO 10W40 and Redline 10W40 before? Care to share with me the performance, fc etc.. Amsoil AMO 10w40: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx Redline 10w40: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=5&pcid=21

Bro. as above which is better?

Has anyone uses Amsoil AMO 10w40 and Redline 10w40? Which is better? Amsoil AMO 10w40: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx Redline 10w40: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=5&pcid=21

When I saw Red Line 5W/40 at AUTOBACS selling for $17.50 a quart... I though sure can get cheaper elsewhere... Well I guess MX trading (?).... Did a good job to standardize the price... NOWHERE I know can get cheaper... Well I hv had enuf cheap supermarket oils with oil changes at 5k 2k... Even 1k for my most recent VX.... Initially my butt dyno told me no difference for the c-----e n VX for normal driving, at most probably they don't last as long and shear much earlier... Especially with my heavy foot... Can't complain at all since I use ard $15 of these EO with every oil change... Initial 500k is shiok as with most new oil changes... 1k still ok.... Reaching 2k feel engine rough liao... Whatever reason theory thinning shearing.... The feeling that i've saved $ on my more frequent oil changes, just does not make me happy anymore.... I want to feed better oils for my car again.... But still will not wanna pay like $150 up for an oil change... Cusco 5W/40 at McWells was a choice as it was a good deal @ $80 with filter... HKS NA looked good but $140up 4 liters took ex... Motul worked wonders for my bike before but in 2liter bottles @ $75 not cheap.. so Amsoil or Redline lah... as i need only 3 bottles if its a quart a btl... Did a change yesterday and my butt dyno says its wonderful... smoother.. quieter.. seems more powerful... hahaha... think my mind affects my butt dyno alot... haha... anyways loving it.... keke

Compared to Xrev?

Hi bros comparing the three on top which is the best for performance? my ride is FI with SC. Performance is the most impt consideration because I change engine oil every 5000 km. Anyone got the prices too bro? Cheers

someone quoted that elf oil is almost as good as redline. purpose of thread is to see wad majority thinks. shucks ignore the the bloddy pool...

Wanna find out about what you guys think of Shell Helix Ultra as compared to the rest of the brands which promise a lot more. What do you think? Me reaching 15,000 soon and thinking of which brand to use.

Interesting read on redlines wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redline * Audi R8 V8 8000 rpm (rev limiter 8250 rpm) * BMW E36 M3 I6 6500 rpm * BMW E46 M3 I6 8000 rpm * BMW E90 M3 V8 8400 rpm * BMW E39 M5 V8 7000 rpm * BMW E60 M5 V10 8250 rpm * Bugatti Veyron turbocharged W16 6500 rpm * Chevrolet Corvette C6 Z06 V8 7000 rpm * Chevrolet Corvette C6 ZR1 supercharged V8 6500 rpm * Ferrari 348 V8 7500 rpm * Ferrari F355 V8 8500 rpm * Ferrari F50 V12 8500 rpm * Ferrari 360 V8 8500 rpm * Ferrari Enzo V12 8000 rpm (rev limiter 8250 rpm) * Ferrari F430 V8 8500 rpm * Ferrari California V8 8000 rpm * Ferrari 458 Italia V8 9000 rpm * Honda NSX V6 8000 rpm * Honda Integra Type R I4 8400 rpm * Honda Civic Si I4 8000 rpm * Honda S2000 I4 8800 rpm (2.0L) (rev limiter 9000 rpm) * Honda S2000 I4 8000 rpm (2.2L) * Lamborghini Gallardo V10 8100 rpm * Lamborghini Gallardo V10 LP560-4 8500 rpm * Lexus LFA V10 9000 rpm (rev limter 9500 rpm) * McLaren F1 V12 7500 rpm * Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren supercharged V8 7000 rpm * Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X turbocharged L4 7000 rpm * Nissan GTR turbocharged V6 7000 rpm * Nissan 370Z V6 7500 rpm * Porsche Carrera GT V10 8400 rpm * Porsche 997 GT2 turbocharged flat-6 6750 rpm Redline refers to the maximum engine speed at which an internal combustion engine or traction motor and its components are designed to operate without causing damage to the components themselves or other parts of the engine.[1] The redline of an engine depends on various factors such as stroke, mass of the components, displacement, composition of components, and balance of components. Contents [hide] * 1 Variation of redline * 2 Rev limiter and implementation * 3 Examples of performance automobile piston engines * 4 Examples of production rotary engines * 5 Examples of motorcycle engines * 6 References [edit] Variation of redline Engines with short strokes can handle higher rpm because there is less force in reciprocating motion. Lighter components can increase the redline as well, since they have less inertia and decrease forces present in the engine. Redlines vary anywhere from a few hundred revolutions per minute (rpm) (in very large engines such as those in trains and generators) to more than ten thousand rpm (in smaller, usually high-performance engines such as motorcycles and sports cars with pistonless rotary engines). Diesel engines normally have lower redlines than comparatively-sized gasoline engines, largely because of fuel-atomization limitations. Gasoline automobile engines typically will have a redline at around 5500 to 7000 rpm. The Honda F20C engine used in the S2000 together with Ferrari 458 Italia has the highest redline of a production piston-engine road car rated at 9000 rpm. The Renesis rotary engine in the current Mazda RX-8 has a redline of 9000 rpm. On the other hand, some older OHV engines had redlines as low as 4800 rpm, mostly due to the engines being designed and built for low end power and economy during the late 60's all the way to the early 90's. One main reason OHV engines have lower redlines is valve float. At high speeds, the valve spring simply can not keep the tappet or roller on the camshaft. After the valve opens, the valve spring does not have enough force to push the mass of the rocker arm, push rod, and lifter down on the cam before the next combustion cycle. Overhead cam engines eliminate many of the components, and moving mass, used on OHV engines. Lower redlines, however, do not necessarily mean low performance, as some skeptics sometimes assume. For example, a Supercharged Buick 3800 V6 with a redline anywhere from 5500-6000 has a torque curve that peaks at 2600-3600rpms, yet the engine is a strong performer from take-off, all the way through to the redline. Motorcycle engines can have even higher redlines because of their comparatively lower reciprocating mass. For example, the Yamaha YZF-R6 has a redline of about 16,200 rpm. (Yamaha heavily advertised the engine as having a 17,500 rpm redline, though for reasons of marketing and/or tachometer error, the engine was not actually capable of that speed.) Higher yet is the redline of a modern Formula One car. Regulations limit the maximum engine rotation to 19000 rpm, but during the 2006 season, engine speeds reached over 20000 rpm on the Cosworth engine. [edit] Rev limiter and implementation The actual term redline comes from the red bars that are displayed on tachometers in cars starting at the rpm that denotes the redline for the specific engine. Operating an engine in this area is known as redlining. Straying into this area usually does not mean instant engine failure, but may increase the chances of damaging the engine. Most modern cars have computer systems that prevent the engine from straying too far into the redline by cutting fuel flow to the fuel injectors/carburetor or by disabling the ignition system until the engine drops to a safer operating speed. This device is known as a rev limiter and is usually set to an RPM value at redline or a few hundred RPM above. Most Electronic Control Units (ECUs) of automatic transmission cars will upshift before the engine hits the redline even with maximum acceleration (an automatic transmission sport car's ECU will allow the engine to go nearer the redline or hit the redline before upshifting). If manual override is used, the engine may go past redline for a brief amount of time before the ECU will auto-upshift. When the car is in top gear and the engine is in redline (due to high speed), the ECU will cut fuel to the engine, forcing it to decelerate until the engine begins operating below the redline at which point it will release fuel back to the engine, allowing it to speed operate once again. However, even with these electronic protection systems, a car is not prevented from redlining through inadvertent gear engagement. If a driver accidentally selects a lower gear when trying to shift up or selects a lower gear than intended while shifting down (as in a motorbike sequential transmission), the engine will be forced to rapidly rev-up to match the speed of the drivetrain. If this happens while the engine was at high rpms, it may dramatically exceed the redline. For example, if the operator is driving close to redline in 3rd gear and attempts to shift to 4th gear but unintentionally puts the car in 2nd by mistake, the transmission will be spinning much faster than the engine, and when the clutch is released the engine

Anybody using it on their ride? I believe one bottle with distilled water is the correct way of applicating... So any need to top up, lets say 1,2 or even 3,4 months down the road? What abt this compared to, lets say Toyota long life coolant?

hi, thinking of which to change, anyone comments on these 2 engine oil. tks

was trying to add AutoRX to my gearbox, but when i opened the filler hole, a lot of fluid leaked out. so thinking that i lost quite a bit of transmission fluid, i opened the drain plug and everything came out! so i bought myself 2 quarts of Redline MT-90 (75W90) gear oil and it's GRRRREAT! shifting feels much better now and doesn't feel as hard to engage gears. Especially reverse, there is far less crunching noise now.

Anyone using Amsoil or Redline? Which is better? Seem like Amsoil is cheaper than Redline.

I'm looking for Redline lubricants. Where can I find them locally? Thanks in advance.

Hi bro..... any lobang to get cheap redline engine oil, cos due for servicing

Hi, anyone using Redline or AMSoil ATF? can comment on them? Redline cost $20/per Quart, AMSoil $16/Quart but Redline seems to give better protection on technical chart. I need 7 litres, which means $140! currently i am using the Hyundai brand ATF that cost $50 for 8 litres only. if Redline is really much better, i dun mind paying almost 2x higher. but if slightly better only, no point. Please advise, thanks!

Hi, want to try out redline engine oil for my next servicing. Anyone knows any workshop in the north that carrys redline oil? Thanks

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Featu...otopanel..1.*#2 "Owning all these cars, are there any you'd like to get, but haven't yet? There's not a car right now that, quite honestly, I can think of that I want. The only one I don't have in exotics is the Bugatti Veyron. And, you know, I'm not necessarily a fan of French cars. It doesn't look sporty enough. It looks like a Supra to me. That's my opinion."

anyone has lobang to buy redline oil??

i have a problem here.. just now drove to pick eldest bro up from work at Ghim Moh.. i live in Bt Batok.. the distance is around 8km.. here is how it went.. i started the engine cold.. it is in the "C" region.. so i just slowly drove, i noticed that i cannot bring the Tachometer up to 3/4, just slightly more than 1/2 after flooring.. i thought it could be becos of the cold engine.. when i reached ghim moh, around 20mins later.. the engine is in the normal position, which is in the centre for my case.. so i tried to floor it.. again, it is still slightly more than 1/2 of the tacho.. what could be wrong?? anyway, today dad just got the brakes done.. is it becos of the brakes that stop it from going higher up?? i am pretty concerned about this.. becos gear shifting is very much affected.. the gears are too wide apart, so not hitting the right RPM to shift will have difficulties in picking up as dad needs to ferry some stuffs for work at the back.. thank u all for ur help..

Wow, check this out. This is simply amazing.. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...ic;f=1;t=012378

Hi, Anyone can advise me on this? I stepped fully on the accelerator, the gear dropped (normal, i guess) and the rpm shoot straight up into the red zone. Funny thing is the needle hovered for about 5 sec in the red zone near the end of the rpm meter liao. It only shifted up when i let go of the accelerator.....is it normal or my car something wrong? coz heard from others who drive auto, the car will shift up once in the red zone...