TURBO vs N.A

[Soya]

juz curious, where did u get that quote from?

[Falc]

That's why they give u so much service credits...

 

But seriously, I wonder if it has to do with the turbo ... titanium twin-scroll causes oil to burn more easily?

[Liuhao]

aiyo...it's the article copied by BMW320i meh. see above.

[Genie47]

Use synthetic oil lah! Can change at 5000miles. That is the standard. 3000miles is very kiasu.

[Soya]

tink that refers to using dino oil. no one will be crazy enuf to do that in a TC car. plus, many modern turbos are water cooled. for me, i simply stick to the recommended oil and service intervals and never once had a single issue wif the turbo over 2.5 yrs. and i dun even bother wif a turbo timer.

[Genie47]

Explains why some clueless US owners of VAG 1.8T (longitudinally mounted) got serious sludge problems. They use Castrol Syntec. Syntec is "fake" synthetic using Group III. Most smart ones use the German Castrol because German car needs German oil.

[Dwoon]

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but when we say turbo will only step in after certain time. isn't that mean an 1.8 will drink like a normal 1.8 if u don't engage turbo? is that possible?

 

You can install a boost controller which allows dual or a few settings, then have one of the setting to cut boost so can drive like an NA car lah..... Then switch to another setting when you wanna do high boosting.

 

Alternatively, with a boost gauge, you can monitor the boost levels generated. If you drive like an aunty and never go above vacuum range. (Even try to not go beyond -0.2 bar) You'll be amazed at the FC that can be achieved.

[Elfenstar]

I always change mine at 5000kms as the sludge build-up in a turbo will kill it much faster than the sludge build-up in the engine. Better to be safe than sorry considering turbo prices.

 

Even in modern water cooled turbo's, the oil plays a major part in cooling it down. (Think 100k rpm's, with the exhaust turbine side reaching 870deg cel.)

[Johnchong]

Hehe, turbo acceleration is definitely good, but I prefer the sound of NA engines (eg. Ferrari). Turbo engines sound quite monotonous to me.

Like the linear power of NA engines too.

[Elfenstar]

Depends on how you drive lor, if siao lang like me all the way from start to stop then a proper warm-up (partially for the oil to stabilse at the higer temp and allow for the oil pressure to reach req levels) and cool-down (cool down as provided by the timer) is essential.

 

Basically all the turbo timer does is allow the engine oil to circulate will the turbo is still spinning (after your engine is turned off, alternatively you can just run the car for a while after stopping). This is because once the engine shuts off, the engine oil flow stops and if the turbo is spinning fast and the temp is high, the oil will sheer causing lubricaton loss resulting in the turbo seizing after repeated occurances (you will also realise that there will be a lot more shaft play before the turbo seizes).

[Falc]

There is this workshop which recommends me to change the turbo's oil feeding pipe too, in case it clogs.

[Elfenstar]

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You can install a boost controller which allows dual or a few settings, then have one of the setting to cut boost so can drive like an NA car lah..... Laugh Then switch to another setting when you wanna do high boosting.

 

Alternatively, with a boost gauge, you can monitor the boost levels generated. If you drive like an aunty and never go above vacuum range. (Even try to not go beyond -0.2 bar) You'll be amazed at the FC that can be achieved.

 

The lowest boost you can run with a boost controler is stock boost as the actuator can only have one setting to open the wastegate. What the controllers do is bleed off some of the air or prevent the boost pressure from reaching the actuator. The only way to run boost lower than stock is either by your foot (what you said abt watching the boost gauge- i.e. throttle control), changing the actuator to one of a lower pressure or one that can be adjusted.

[Elfenstar]

I love the sound of horizontal opposed piston engines and even the v and W config regardless of FI or not as they do sound damn good compared to inline config.

 

Turbo cars have a linear power band too, just that they have 2 of them :p one off boost and the other on boost.

Edited June 28, 2005 by Elfenstar

[Elfenstar]

I changed all the inlet hoses, and the coolant outlet to 12mm braided ones (stock ones were 4mm). Only one thats stock is the oil return.

[Elfenstar]

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depends also on u wanna corner or straight... but the pull from turbo is shiok

 

Nah, cornering is affected mostly by tyres,driveline, suspension and vehicle chassis. With a turbo just make sure you stay on boost and you're fine in the corners. The S2000, Civic Type R and Integra Type R (and ONLY these three from honda) have such a good balance that they put most cars to shame.

[Dwoon]

Oh....... didn't realise that BC will only go as low as stock boost settings.

 

Then must do the ECU thinggy that can give dual boost settings.

[Falc]

What abt turbo with electronic actuators? Newer VAG cars have a limp mode whereby the ECU will limit the boost to a much lower than stock level itself. So that's another way.

[Elfenstar]

I don't actually know what VAG stands for, but i'm guessing something more conti??? and new??? Most of the newer conti cars have electronic throttles,and its pretty simple to control boost as the turbo responds to throttle position (i.e. your foot to the floor at 100kmh will have more boost than you foot halfway at 100kmh.) Is that what you're talking about??? If the actuator is actually electronic (never heard of it, but i'm a bit sua ku when it comes to newer conti cars), in theory it will be easier for the electronic boost controlers as it just has to tap the signal and come out with its own accordingly.

 

Edit: Thinking about it, they don't have to be new as my moms 3yr old corsa has an electronic throttle with the damn limp mode. Also does VAG stand for VW auto group (wild guess but its the only one that fits other than volvo)???

Edited June 28, 2005 by Elfenstar