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Impact Bolting


Odyssey02
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Like the other bros here said, can't be the loosening process that caused the break.

 

However someone else here did suggest that by mistake they tightened accidentally first before removing. Even so, that cannot immediately cause the bolt to break. It should have been put through further stress first, like at least driving around heavily, before the effect. It takes ALOT to break that bolt. [:/]

 

Sorry to hear that bro.

 

Btw, even if the gas powered type were used for tightening nuts, when adjusted correctly, they are fine to use too. [:/]

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Sorry this happen.. I think the bolt must be drilled and extracted. However I believe installation of new bolts should be very easy and cheap.

 

The process is to drill a very small hole in the center of the bolt, and then use a device to remove it.

 

This is definitely the fault of last person who torque the nut. The torque required on car rims is only about 100 NM. Hardly anywhere near the limit. Next time, if you see someone impact wrench your wheels together.. Make sure you ask them to take it off and redo it using torque wrench.

 

Once I've a tire place install my aftermarket rims, and they torque it to about 200 NM. (because I have a torque wrench, and it clicks if set before 200NM)

Yah, if cannot cut and saw away the protuding part, got to drill liao. There is something called the screw extractor, that looks like a ever expanding drill, but with very rough anti-clockwise threads... Or are they even threads? This one if the thing is so tight, then if 8 mm, min must drill 7.5mm through, then you try to remove the thread if its stud type... I tried before, only 3 out of 10 attempts worked. The remainder 7 worked when i tried to tap through, then the thread body stick to the tap and came out when i turn the tap back. Very prominent on the aluminum type. If its the lock on type, this method won't work. Just saw and file and file, then knock it out. Definately cannot wield back... Actually, most air wrench got adjustments one, number 1 rating is say 70NM, number 2 is 110 etc etc, depending on brands... Thats what we did with the air-ratchet type, we can't be torqueing every bolt and nut in the vehicle, will die one, so sometimes stuff like 20-35 NM, the air-ratchet with numbers works well. [:)]

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according to KM, the screw thing got slightly bent when it broke, thus leaving behind only about 1 inch of the screw left so Eng Wah forced the bolt in by screwing it VERY tightly, so now KM hasn't found a way to unscrew the bolt. well, see what KM says tomorrow. [shakehead]

Are you claiming from anyone? If you are, make them change the whole heel hub.

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Lug nut bolts are hot forged and case harden so that they are able to take elongation stress, load and bending stress besides the normal wear and tear due to usage. If the bolt shear off easily ,there is a possiblity of manufacturing defects( internal hair-line crack )or either due to imporper wheel mounting, lug nut cross thread or over torque by impact wrenche.

 

Since the lug nut bolt is of harden steel, the only way to remove it is by heating red hot and allow it to cool and then proceed to drill a hole deep enough for the "easi-out tap" to grip and twist out broken bolt. The heat generated by the blow torch may directly weaken the surrounding bolts and the wheel hub. Unless the tech doing it is a very skillful fitter, if not suggest you completely replace the half shalf that comes with the wheel hub and lug nut bolts.

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Neutral Newbie

I had my Chariot's tyres changed at Hurry tyres, and they broke the screw as well. However, they were nice enough to replace it for free themselves. If you do research, its always better to bolt the tyres in by hand, as it doesn't ruin the treads as easily as the powered method.

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Like that than ok lor at lease that you spent only $100 together only lor. At first i thought that it will cost you a bomb to repair that

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