Impact Bolting

[Odyssey02]

so whos right? sum say hand problem sum say due to impact bolting? anyway will check it out this week at KM when sending for repair.

[Genie47]

The one who applied the bolt seems to be in the wrong. The one removing should not be to blame.

[Megalord]

You sure you wanna send back to KM? Very the ex for the same job done.

Its difficult to argue, cos if i am in either case, i can argue till the other side is the culprit, but as it is now judging from what you said, its that guy that torque your tyre @ fault. If he refuse to admit, you can T-loan my T-bar, apply force till the stress line forms(don't be surprised to apply something like 400-500NM or even more to get that line formed. Some of those 110NM threads can handle 580NM without showing any signs of breakage or cross-threading). Then send back and ask him open. Sure break, then tell him to pay you the repair fees. Then you can see this time round he will blame it on the person tightening it. Please don't try it, waste of time only, but a scenero to consider.

If wanna argue, bring a civil engineer with ya, then this type of engineers will talk facts till they cannot blame 1 another. However, i see that we should stick to the same tyre shop to avoid pushing of blame ba...

Edited April 3, 2005 by Megalord

[Roberttan]

forget to ask you wether your wheel is sitting centrally fit on wheel hub?

otherwise the whole car weigh is sitting on those bolts and if you are always heavily load and on poor road conditon could(I said could)cause shear force and break it.

If I will you I would not rather setting trap and tell them not to overtighten.

MHO using a torque wrench maynot be neccessary and hand tighten is OK.

in the pass most tyreshop or motor workshop no use torque wrench and we heard how many of this happend against the number of wheels ,you see the percentage is relatively very low

to me I will just takeit as wear and tear and drive and per noramly.

[Megalord]

My direct guess is its sitting centrally on the hub. The nuts are merely "sticking" the rims to the plate, but lets hear the threadstarter out.. Haven't gone observe a oddssey closely before. Those that need to deal with sheer force imho are ultra ultra tough. Dun set trap lah, waste of effort. Who knows thread breaks even when torqueing. For me hand tighten with a extra 10-20NM per nut/bolt is not a big issue though, as the threads have proven themselves to withstand harsh values.

[Roberttan]

when come to service job and dealing with those small enterprise shop I will deal with them base on trust and any problem I would not simply push all to them,cos they are human too and who dont make mistake?

I always question them when I am in doubt,but some time you need some technical base to understand the answer,give them the business they will tell you the true,otherwise if they know you are there just for $ and to dig info ,you will be sorry for the answer ,because no one like to show their underwear unless you pay for it.

I only go to specialist of individual item like mech for engine,painter for body,tyreshop for tyre ,rim,battery matter,I believe they know better than those under one roof.

this may cost me more time and trouble but is worth it.

[Megalord]

Very much agreed. Yupz, its down to trust too, and we all make mistakes. Unfortunately when i was a mechanic, it was a different case... But good to have people like ya who think this way.

For me, normal stuff like change of brakes, or changing of say pumps seals or hoses etc etc, i will still do it myself. When coming to tyre, rim, stuff more defined like engine overhaul(depends on models, but i give up on Vtec), gearbox gear alignments, all these i tend to pass it to trustable mechanics, or even my shifu, but dun wanna stress him liao... But stuff like shaft, shockabsorber, servicing or change of ball joints or dx gearbox, i still do myself, all those changes are rather idiot proof. 2 reasons. 1, i got all the tools needed, else my mom say they are useless, must now and then bring them out to see the world. Second, i can blame no one else but myself if the relevant part fail, or needs adjustment.

You see, after spending thousands on tools, you got to try to get back some $ too!

[Odyssey02]

wow...shocking news. today brought the car back to KM and they say they CANNOT OPEN THE BOLT. according to them, the thread of the screw of off and the nut is stuck inside so they themselves have NO IDEA how to open it.

Edited April 7, 2005 by Odyssey02

[Megalord]

Worse come to the worse, change the wheel hub. However, confirm with ya, yours is the stud type? If yes... Will be good if i got a parts catalog... Can tell what type direct...

Btw, if the thread of the screw is gone, then they can apply outwards pressure and pull while turning mah... Sure come out one... But requires alot of effort to pull, cos got to stop the nut from moving. Got to use my imagination until i get to see the real thing. If really cannot, take out the hub, saw or cut the bolt area, grind down abit and try to knock the "bolt" the other way out. Now i am getting confused, is it a stud type? Did they open it up in front of ya? Can discribe abit on the thread?

Or is it they mean the outer screwthread has broken, so they cannot remove it? Do englighten?

[Odyssey02]

what do you mean by stud type. just like a normal one i think

[Huggable]

For safety reasons, it's not advisable to weld back the bolt.

 

Now you make me doubt the proficency of KM, if as an agent, they can't rectify the problem, who else can? Send the car back to Japan?

[Odyssey02]

according to KM, the screw thing got slightly bent when it broke, thus leaving behind only about 1 inch of the screw left so Eng Wah forced the bolt in by screwing it VERY tightly, so now KM hasn't found a way to unscrew the bolt. well, see what KM says tomorrow.

[Zrun]

Sorry this happen.. I think the bolt must be drilled and extracted. However I believe installation of new bolts should be very easy and cheap.

 

The process is to drill a very small hole in the center of the bolt, and then use a device to remove it.

 

This is definitely the fault of last person who torque the nut. The torque required on car rims is only about 100 NM. Hardly anywhere near the limit. Next time, if you see someone impact wrench your wheels together.. Make sure you ask them to take it off and redo it using torque wrench.

 

Once I've a tire place install my aftermarket rims, and they torque it to about 200 NM. (because I have a torque wrench, and it clicks if set before 200NM)

Edited April 7, 2005 by Zrun

[Genie47]

because I have a torque wrench, and it clicks if set before 200NM

 

Ah! the joys of living in the US. Torque wrenches are standard items in DIY stores there. Not here.

[Zrun]

Not really leh.. My torque wrench is made in China Cost about 35-40 SGD.

[Genie47]

My torque wrench is made in China Cost about 35-40 SGD.

 

Still cheaper than here.

[Roberttan]

you are right no welding is allow there.

Don't blame KM for it,because this is after marketitem,they only deal with OEM

even you ship back Japan they will still tell you that is not OEM they can't help

[Roberttan]

sorry to hear that,maybe you can ask some brother here to help you who write like very technicaly sound .

I cannot understand how they can tell you what to do when non of us have seen the problem by our eye.