Anyone tried Fuel or Engine Additives?

[Octopus]

No problem. But I thought a clean fuel system would be nice.

Hopefully able to give me some extra power after a fuel treatment.

[Normal_aspirated]

Can still get at Autobacc or HomeFix D.I.Y. stores.........

[Genie47]

The STP treatments is just a crutch. If injectors need cleaning, a better job gets underway when you see a carburetion specialist which in most cases is an injector specialist. Do it right the first time round or don't do it at all. Ditto with carburetor cleaners. Tear downs are always better.

 

BTW, the treatments are bamboo sticks. I use a big iron rod.

Edited March 25, 2005 by Genie47

[Genie47]

Your car is carburetted if I'm not wrong. Find a carburetion specialist to do a carburetor tear down. Once and for all have a thorough clean up. I did this with my carburetted Starlet the last time. Can feel the oomph immediately after. Did it in JB and costs me MYR40.

[Genie47]

See a post above. See a carburetion specialist. He can tear down your carburetor and clean it like it is new. Plenty in JB. He doesn't just tear down, he will replace the seals as well.

Edited March 25, 2005 by Genie47

[Genie47]

If your car has got a problem, fueling is the last place I will look into. In all my experience with the Starlets, the first place to look into is always ignition.

 

There is no need to clean the fuel lines from the tank. Carburetion needs very low pressure but usually the flow is very good. Your in-engine fuel filter will have gotten all of the crud and changing it at the specified intervals is recommended. Why I said all of the crud. Of all the carburetor tear-downs I've seen, no solids are seen. Only the tell tale sign of the dye that is used in the petrol can be seen staining the carburetor.

 

Knowing that you, Pisces69 and Xtraun have carburetted engines, I suggest your trips up north to source a carburetion specialist. There are a lot in Malaysia. All the Proton Sagas that are still chugging around are carburetted. Ditto with most the old Japanese cars you see there. Who knows, they might find yours faulty and replace it with a spanking new Proton SU derivative that gives that awesome induction sound . A new SU is around MYR600. They have manifold adaptors too. If you want to keep the car longer and carburetor gave its ghost, this is the best option. BTW, repair of carburetor costs up to MYR1000.

[Octopus]

Thanks for your reply. Actually I was considering those fuel cleaning additive as a maintenance aid rather than trying to troubleshoot a particular problem. My carburator was replaced about 1 year ago and everything is running fine.

 

But I thought since my car is old, perhaps fuel tank and fuel line may need some cleaning.......just a thought anyway.

[Genie47]

Last thing on my mind is the fuel. Most of the Starlets just go and have their carburetors stripped down and cleaned. Since yours is replaced a year ago, it should faithfully serve you. Actually carburetor cleaning frequency is 40-50k km. This frequency also applies to injectors. Most of the Starlet owners go and have them cleaned once they buy the COE Starlet. Imagine some are 15yrs no cleaning. Lots of gum which come from waxy oilfins. When an engine is turned off, the carburetor goes through heatsoak and the petrol evaporates leaving these waxy oilfins behind which in turn solidifies into gum.

 

Short trips will see this buildup very fast. Cheap RON92 petrol may contribute to it but most petrol now even RON92 are of very high quality. Even those in Malaysia.

 

An injector/carburetion specialist will clean carburetors, injectors and throttle body. For the case of EFI cars, when the injectors go off, the specialist will clean the intake valves as well. A total job. That is why these treatments are just a band aid.

Edited March 25, 2005 by Genie47

[Skodee]

Anyone uses X1R fuel and engine addictive before? Heard that another brand carry formerly by TV Media (MotorUp) being sued in the US for false claims...

[Genie47]

Most of them are sued by the FTC. The only one that seems untouched so far is Tuffoil. Dunno why. Maybe they are pretty good in following up their warranty claims.

 

If you want a pretty good and well documented OTC additive, Valvoline Synpower Engine Oil Treatment is one. Too bad the Engine Life Maxpower is not available locally. It is cheaper and have even more stuff in it.

[Ahdi]

erm...this type of things do no harm to ur engine....

and oso RON 98 or V-Power already have additives in them....

 

once a bottle of additives to clear up the dust is ok la......

[Hattee]

Your sweeping bamboo stick on STP product - "You can buy and use them but you will be disappointed to find that they are not useful."

 

Looks like you are quite inclined to this. Hope I am wrong.

[Genie47]

It is a clean sweep. These aftermarket products do not completely do a job. The fueling system has become much more complicated. Even carburetors should not be attempted by amateurs. A simple injector in-tank cleaner is not going to do much. You will desire for more. I rather send it to the carburetion/injection specialist. Why make a feeble attempt at all?

 

If a real DIY work is needed, you don't need STP, you need those cleaners with pressurized containers of solvent. Disconnect your fuel line and blast it in. Even this is not sufficient for the job. It is a complete 5hr job if you are thorough. I'd rather send it to an injection specialist.

[Genie47]

OK anyone wanting to DIY injector cleaning should go for this:

 

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...ler/output_html

 

Not cheap. Forget the in-tank one. Right tools for the right job.

[BMW320i]

Sir would recommend using fuel additives?

 

I'm using RON 98 fuel grade in aussieland. Recently saw some fuel additives and was wondering if it really does improve efficiency.

Edited March 26, 2005 by BMW320i

[Pisces69]

Can still get at Autobacc or HomeFix D.I.Y. stores.........

=========================

 

OK Thanks. Must remember to check it out when I around those places. But I never noticed it at the Homefix stores b4.

 

Autobacc I never go there.

[Pisces69]

See a post above. See a carburetion specialist. He can tear down your carburetor and clean it like it is new. Plenty in JB. He doesn't just tear down, he will replace the seals as well.

=======================

Fully agree with u, as I too had my carb re-built b4 when it had some serious problems.

 

The fuel additive is like panadol for a slight headache or vitamins for us. The re-building of the carb is like major operation like heart by=pass.

[Pisces69]

There is no need to clean the fuel lines from the tank. Carburetion needs very low pressure but usually the flow is very good. Your in-engine fuel filter will have gotten all of the crud and changing it at the specified intervals is recommended. Why I said all of the crud. Of all the carburetor tear-downs I've seen, no solids are seen. Only the tell tale sign of the dye that is used in the petrol can be seen staining the carburetor.

 

The couple of times I had my carbs serviced, I did notice some rust stains at the bottom of the float tank. No solid residue. Too bad they only air blow the jets. I would prefer the using of steel wire but most places don't have it. I always check my fuel filter for signs of contamination, but since I seldom go below 3/4 tank, my fuel tank is pretty clean (no rust).

 

Knowing that you, Pisces69 and Xtraun have carburetted engines, I suggest your trips up north to source a carburetion specialist. There are a lot in Malaysia. All the Proton Sagas that are still chugging around are carburetted. Ditto with most the old Japanese cars you see there. Who knows, they might find yours faulty and replace it with a spanking new Proton SU derivative that gives that awesome induction sound . A new SU is around MYR600. They have manifold adaptors too. If you want to keep the car longer and carburetor gave its ghost, this is the best option. BTW, repair of carburetor costs up to MYR1000.[/reply]

 

My mech in SG is an older guy who has the ability to do carb re-build here .

I don't think my oem carb is an SU so if it goes in, I might need some mods which I'm not too keen about. I just changed to a 2nd hand (1 year old) original carb, so I don't anticipate any problems for some years to come. I did have my old carb re-built & the kit only cost $17 here. Labour was $50. So not too bad lah.

 

Thanks for your tip.