What are the types of mineral engine oils? rating?

[Jeronleow]

Bro I am using Cas*** Edg* 5W40 but the engine abit knocking sound like the con-rod can I mixed the 5W40 with 5W60 to get 5W50 haha?? And also my oil level dropped slightly fast duno is it leaking or what. By the way I am running on four-yee.

[Kyojin]

er... knocking sound? u better check it out... could be a few factors.

 

you can mix oil, but must be same brand/range to prevent the additives from reacting with one another. put a cardboard box under your engine area at night and check it again in the morning. if there are no oil drips, then you are probably burning oil. with your knocking noise, it could be a blown piston ring.

[Swiftboi]

wat grade petrol u using bro..... sometimes grade too low oso cause engine knocking noise

[Guan73]

Anyone have any idea or experience with 2e and 3e engine.

[Kyojin]

what do you need to know?

[Jeronleow]

Hi bros. As per advised by David I was on 98 all the way. Knocking sounds like oil getting too thin. I am due for servicing and I am now headache over which oil to use. Recently found that my engine oil and gear oil leaking when the car was jacked up. Mech says mayb oil seal is damaged. Or could it be oil getting too thin? Please recommend an oil for my four-yee engine with occasional high revving. Thanks!

[Kyojin]

i would say fix the oil seals. no matter how thick your oil, if your oil seals are leaking, it's not going to work. fix the problem when it's small.

 

the issue of oil viscosity and leaking only applies in the piston O-rings. if you are using oil that's too thin, it may leak between the O-rings and burn in the combustion chamber, giving you a white-bluish exhaust smoke and even pinging.

 

your oil will only thin if it's contaminated (with petrol or its cleaning agents) or prolonged high temperatures.

 

it's hard to tell whether your engine is burning any oil because you have a physical leak.

 

but if you have absolutely no leaks and you only rev it occasionally, you can go for 30wt oils (0w30, 5w30 or 10w30) without issues. if you do a lot of tracking then go for a 40wt. i'm paranoid, so i use 50wt oil for track and change it out immediately after.

[Jeronleow]

Tks Kyojin. How much aga to change oil seal? Mech says the whole timing belt has to be removed and its a big labour. Sianz... My W40 already quite thin leh can go W30 ah? I heard 5W40 is also too thin should at least get 10W40 but I thought the front number is the temperature thing? Does it affect the viscocity?

[Robo]

Tks Kyojin. How much aga to change oil seal? Mech says the whole timing belt has to be removed and its a big labour. Sianz... My W40 already quite thin leh can go W30 ah? I heard 5W40 is also too thin should at least get 10W40 but I thought the front number is the temperature thing? Does it affect the viscocity?

 

try gg w50. as your car is a little special might be a safe choice. 5w50 for a start.

[Kyojin]

Tks Kyojin. How much aga to change oil seal? Mech says the whole timing belt has to be removed and its a big labour. Sianz... My W40 already quite thin leh can go W30 ah? I heard 5W40 is also too thin should at least get 10W40 but I thought the front number is the temperature thing? Does it affect the viscocity?

 

whoever said 40 wt oil is too thin? it's in fact quite thick. don't bother much about the first number as we don't have cold weather. but i tend to "narrow" down the difference. I would pick a 10w30 oil over a 0w30 oil because there's less modifiers.

 

don't need to do 50wt unless you have a slight internal leak. even then it isn't a cure-all. just slows down the process. it's waaay too thick for any engine for daily use. seriously. a lot of pple think thicker is always better. very ill-informed. what you need is the correct range. folks in the UK and Oz are using 30wt oils for their 4E-FTE safely. Don't see how's that different here.

[Jeronleow]

Ya bro I was thinking of the same thing. Personally tried 40WT abit noisy.

 

Kyojin thanks alot for the info. I have bought Redline engine oil as recommended by Robo and MT-90 gear oil as recommended by you. Heard that Redline is good stuff!

Edited August 21, 2009 by Jeronleow

[Robo]

Ya bro I was thinking of the same thing. Personally tried 40WT abit noisy.

 

Kyojin thanks alot for the info. I have bought Redline engine oil as recommended by Robo and MT-90 gear oil as recommended by you. Heard that Redline is good stuff!

 

oh RL is shoik. u can feel the xtra power! however beware bro. after 9k u can feel the lost of energy. which means its almost time to change. i going for amsoil long life on my next change, looking at my current mileage, which is like 2weeks 1k no pt getting RL. my last pump was national day now i have more than 1/2 tank.

[Kyojin]

Redline engine oil and MT90 are good. i personally would think RL engine oil is a waste of money, especially if you have a leak. it's like putting coins in a pocket that has a hole.

 

RL engine oils are PAO ester based. it will swell up your rings and internals, esp if you have been using mineral or semi-synth previously. it's cleaning effect will also "wash" away deposits that were once there to create a tight seal. a combination of these reasons will make you lose oil faster. sometimes, don't just rely on what other pple say about an engine oil. you have to put into context. Robo is correct to say it's a good oil, but it's a case-by-case thing.

 

[Robo]

Redline engine oil and MT90 are good. i personally would think RL engine oil is a waste of money, especially if you have a leak. it's like putting coins in a pocket that has a hole.

 

RL engine oils are PAO ester based. it will swell up your rings and internals, esp if you have been using mineral or semi-synth previously. it's cleaning effect will also "wash" away deposits that were once there to create a tight seal. a combination of these reasons will make you lose oil faster. sometimes, don't just rely on what other pple say about an engine oil. you have to put into context. Robo is correct to say it's a good oil, but it's a case-by-case thing.

 

thanks kyojin! i learnt smth new

[Kyojin]

we are all hear to learn and share.

 

it's generally ok to swap between oils (mineral to synth, synth to semi, semi to synth, Group 4 synth to Group 5 synth) for younger engines 3-5 years, about less 50k km. as the engine gets old and sees more service, best to stick to one type for the rest of its life.

[Robo]

we are all hear to learn and share.

 

it's generally ok to swap between oils (mineral to synth, synth to semi, semi to synth, Group 4 synth to Group 5 synth) for younger engines 3-5 years, about less 50k km. as the engine gets old and sees more service, best to stick to one type for the rest of its life.

 

 

Group 4 and group 5?? care to elaborate a little more?