Tool to change Spark Plug

[Gylgyl]

MCFers, i wanted to change my spark plugs myself but couldn't get the tool to do so... went to autobac but they dun have... anyone knows where to get it?

[Yamrxz]

LIm Ah Boy at Kelantan Lane.. the shop at sell m/bike parts. There can test first whether the tool fit then buy. Open on Sunday too.

[Gylgyl]

thanx... going to check it out today

[Gadgeter]

wonder you have gotten your spark plug opener.

 

It should be available in those spare parts shops... Cost around $5.

[Raycsk]

Get the socket Hex Wrench with the magnet in it. Its very useful in getting the plugs out of the engine block. The ones with the rubber tend to leave the rubber on the plug after yoiu've screwed in the new plug into the engine block.

 

Of course you need the extension bar and wrench.

 

This set up is much easier than the T bar type.

[Gylgyl]

Where where to get?? So sad... have not get it yet... Can u buy for me on my behalf?? Or anyone else want to get also??? Group buy???

[Yeobh]

Finally manage to get my grey matter working again - there is small store " Lee Aik Sheng" located in the 2nd floor of Tekka Market. The store carries wide range of hand tools and harware.

 

Good luck and happy searching

[Dunno]

I got it at those fix-it shops in shopping centres. Cost only a few bucks only...I think $3.50 or $4. Just go ask them if they sell spark plug wrench. Looks like a T shape with the socket dangling below the T. If there are 2 sizes, get the smaller one cos the big one I think is for lorries?

[Tien]

Da Sao at IMM, they sell pieces of different sizes.

 

Just pick and choose those pieces you need (like lego like that!). Each pack costs $2.

 

And dont forget to buy a nice metal tool box as well. $2 also.

[Ace_t]

I got mine at a hardware store... cost me $22. In stainless steel and heavy duty (T-bar type with changeable sockets).

 

After breaking 2 of those $10 spark plug removal tool, I think this was the better alternative.

[Ares]

Better don't buy those cheapo tools for this. Scarly break when you are removing or fitting the plugs then siao liao.

[Ace_t]

that's what exactly happened to me... one little ounce of extra twist and the T-bar snapped.

 

imagine what would happen if it did not have a protective rubber lining...

[Seanboi]

Finally manage to get my grey matter working again - there is small store " Lee Aik Sheng" located in the 2nd floor of Tekka Market. The store carries wide range of hand tools and harware.

 

Good luck and happy searching

 

Bro u got the socket type or those T-bar type? With magnet or rubber lining inside?

[Yeobh]

Have just PM you. Admin rules and requlations - no sales talk allow in forum.Better follow or else they will kick me out of the forum. Once out I will end up talking and lecturing to the walls about auto technology.

[Yeobh]

Have witness cheap socket damaging new spark plug while installating. There is cases of serious cuts due to broken socket and T bar. Always use quality sockets, T bars and protect yr value personal tool that cannot be replace( yr pair of hands).

Edited February 3, 2008 by Yeobh

[Gnahp]

I changed the spark plugs of my wife's car recently

I thought I know it all but still learnt a few new things along the way

 

1. spark plug indexing (google if you want to know more)

I read about spark plug indexing many years ago, I thought that is for top fuel/dragsters, racing cars, never know my wife's car need to use the correct spark plug and correct torque when installing, to ensure the opening end of the electrode facing a certain direction as designed, aka spark plug indexing

2. multi spark

not the same as twin spark, multi spark ignition coil fires a single spark plug multiple times in succession (up to 5 times) during lean burn cycle, to increase the chances of igniting ultra lean air fuel mixture. In other words, the spark plug wears faster than normal ignition system which fires once in the beginning of power stroke

the new plugs are pre-gapped but I kiasi, I measure them again, all spot on at 0.70mm

I also mark the new plug with marker pen, so that I can tell which way the opening end of the electrode is facing after installed. The position of the ground electrode is not random, you can see they all aligned perfectly with the hex corner of the plug (where I marked), I believe the thread also not cut randomly, there are some interesting engineering elements in this old and simple automotive part

my spark plug socket size in my tool box is getting smaller and smaller over the years, I don't have this size (14mm), got to order a new one. Oh yes, look at the washer, it is solid copper, not the usual folded metal crush washer, part of the design to ensure the spark plug is indexed when you apply the correct torque. They don't crush when I torqued it, very weird feeling but I have to trust the engineers who designed it

also, factory said never use anti seize on the thread as the thread is plated with some tok kong plating, new to me too

I let the engine cool down over night before I remove the old plugs, this is controversial, some say don't need

blew lots of fine sands from the spark plug well/hole, if you skip this part, those abrasive fine sands will drop into your cylinder when you pull out the spark plug

I marked the old spark plug before removing, we bought the car new, I wanted to check the orientation of the plug indexing done in the factory so that I can have a reference point

when I install the new plug by factory recommended torque (23Nm) all the new plugs facing the exact direction like those from the factory

I also measure the gap of the old plugs, they are

0.75mm

0.74mm

0.76mm

0.75mm

new plug is 0.70mm

negligible wear at 102,000km

those are iridium centre electrode, platinum side electrode plugs, suppose to last 150,000km

but I follow the factory recommendation to change at 100,000km, I felt cheated, should change them at 150,000km 😁

engine is a little bit smoother after plug change but that could be placebo effect

 

 

 

 

[Kklee]

On 7/14/2024 at 11:38 PM, Gnahp said:

I changed the spark plugs of my wife's car recently

I thought I know it all but still learnt a few new things along the way

 

1. spark plug indexing (google if you want to know more)

I read about spark plug indexing many years ago, I thought that is for top fuel/dragsters, racing cars, never know my wife's car need to use the correct spark plug and correct torque when installing, to ensure the opening end of the electrode facing a certain direction as designed, aka spark plug indexing

2. multi spark

not the same as twin spark, multi spark ignition coil fires a single spark plug multiple times in succession (up to 5 times) during lean burn cycle, to increase the chances of igniting ultra lean air fuel mixture. In other words, the spark plug wears faster than normal ignition system which fires once in the beginning of power stroke

the new plugs are pre-gapped but I kiasi, I measure them again, all spot on at 0.70mm

I also mark the new plug with marker pen, so that I can tell which way the opening end of the electrode is facing after installed. The position of the ground electrode is not random, you can see they all aligned perfectly with the hex corner of the plug (where I marked), I believe the thread also not cut randomly, there are some interesting engineering elements in this old and simple automotive part

my spark plug socket size in my tool box is getting smaller and smaller over the years, I don't have this size (14mm), got to order a new one. Oh yes, look at the washer, it is solid copper, not the usual folded metal crush washer, part of the design to ensure the spark plug is indexed when you apply the correct torque. They don't crush when I torqued it, very weird feeling but I have to trust the engineers who designed it

also, factory said never use anti seize on the thread as the thread is plated with some tok kong plating, new to me too

I let the engine cool down over night before I remove the old plugs, this is controversial, some say don't need

blew lots of fine sands from the spark plug well/hole, if you skip this part, those abrasive fine sands will drop into your cylinder when you pull out the spark plug

I marked the old spark plug before removing, we bought the car new, I wanted to check the orientation of the plug indexing done in the factory so that I can have a reference point

when I install the new plug by factory recommended torque (23Nm) all the new plugs facing the exact direction like those from the factory

I also measure the gap of the old plugs, they are

0.75mm

0.74mm

0.76mm

0.75mm

new plug is 0.70mm

negligible wear at 102,000km

those are iridium centre electrode, platinum side electrode plugs, suppose to last 150,000km

but I follow the factory recommendation to change at 100,000km, I felt cheated, should change them at 150,000km 😁

engine is a little bit smoother after plug change but that could be placebo effect

 

 

 

 

IMHO.
Can put back in for another 50,000 km. 🤣
Toyota also 100,000 km. 

Hmm... maybe next time I will ask for my spark plug and measure. 

[Mkl22]

On 7/14/2024 at 11:38 PM, Gnahp said:

I changed the spark plugs of my wife's car recently

I thought I know it all but still learnt a few new things along the way

 

1. spark plug indexing (google if you want to know more)

I read about spark plug indexing many years ago, I thought that is for top fuel/dragsters, racing cars, never know my wife's car need to use the correct spark plug and correct torque when installing, to ensure the opening end of the electrode facing a certain direction as designed, aka spark plug indexing

2. multi spark

not the same as twin spark, multi spark ignition coil fires a single spark plug multiple times in succession (up to 5 times) during lean burn cycle, to increase the chances of igniting ultra lean air fuel mixture. In other words, the spark plug wears faster than normal ignition system which fires once in the beginning of power stroke

the new plugs are pre-gapped but I kiasi, I measure them again, all spot on at 0.70mm

I also mark the new plug with marker pen, so that I can tell which way the opening end of the electrode is facing after installed. The position of the ground electrode is not random, you can see they all aligned perfectly with the hex corner of the plug (where I marked), I believe the thread also not cut randomly, there are some interesting engineering elements in this old and simple automotive part

my spark plug socket size in my tool box is getting smaller and smaller over the years, I don't have this size (14mm), got to order a new one. Oh yes, look at the washer, it is solid copper, not the usual folded metal crush washer, part of the design to ensure the spark plug is indexed when you apply the correct torque. They don't crush when I torqued it, very weird feeling but I have to trust the engineers who designed it

also, factory said never use anti seize on the thread as the thread is plated with some tok kong plating, new to me too

I let the engine cool down over night before I remove the old plugs, this is controversial, some say don't need

blew lots of fine sands from the spark plug well/hole, if you skip this part, those abrasive fine sands will drop into your cylinder when you pull out the spark plug

I marked the old spark plug before removing, we bought the car new, I wanted to check the orientation of the plug indexing done in the factory so that I can have a reference point

when I install the new plug by factory recommended torque (23Nm) all the new plugs facing the exact direction like those from the factory

I also measure the gap of the old plugs, they are

0.75mm

0.74mm

0.76mm

0.75mm

new plug is 0.70mm

negligible wear at 102,000km

those are iridium centre electrode, platinum side electrode plugs, suppose to last 150,000km

but I follow the factory recommendation to change at 100,000km, I felt cheated, should change them at 150,000km 😁

engine is a little bit smoother after plug change but that could be placebo effect

 

 

 

 

The only reason to use orig plugs is less likely for fakes.