Sound Proofing the car

[Maverick713]

You may want to consider using the heat-resistant aluminium-backed bitumen sheets (sold in bulk rolls of 10m long, 1m wide and 1.5mm thick) that I have been distributing this to fellow foummers in the past 4 months. The cost of this is even lower than B-Quiet Ultimate and the aluminium metal layer used is as thick and firm as Dynamat Extreme's aluminium layer. This is unlike Cable Hunter and Raammat which have only filmsy metal layers. The bitumen compound used in this material is very similar to Extreme too.

 

You posted this:

1. Dynamat Extreme 36 sq ft approx S$3xx in local mkt

2. B-Quiet Ultimate 50 sq ft approx USD$125 import from canada.

 

Now check this out:

3. OEM Aluminium-backed bitumen sheets 10 sqm ~ 108 sq ft at $250 stocked locally by the manufacturer in big bulk rolls like this:

 

 

Some of my doors and roof pics of this cheapest material in action:

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2005 by Maverick713

[Kanr]

where do u install at,thks??

[Baconseet]

Hi Maverick713,

 

heard about your distribution by forummers.

 

U have any small free samples for me to try out?

 

I'm researching on all these materials lately. For the fun and thrill of identifying various products as claimed by most manufacturer.

 

Let me know where i can pick up from u for the samples. :)

 

Also, does it smell? I know that cable hunter and clasani sound mat has a very strong smell. Pasted some at boot and the smell is there whenever i open my boot.

[Xiaogary]

Is the last picture a roof top sound proofing?

How do u strip the roof?

 

I am doing my roof next, but looking for some tips first before I damage it.

[Maverick713]

>>where do u install at,thks??

 

I DIYed my doors and roof soundproofing at my MSCP. Only my floor board was soundproofed at Sin Kit Audiophile with an even cheaper type of plastic-backed bitumen sheet.

[Maverick713]

>>I am doing my roof next, but looking for some tips first before I damage it.

Yep that was my roof soundproofing DIY. I have previously posted this Nissan Latio DIY guide for roof soundproofing in the Nissan Club and the car audio DIY forum. Hope this would be useful for other owners to try DIY as well:

 

 

Materials required: 1/4 roll (2.5 sqm) aluminum-backed bitumen sheets, 2 sheets of 1/4 inch thick insulation foam sheets (such as Superlon), a measuring tape, a pen-knife (scissors won't do because it gets stained too easily) and a can of cleaning solvent (such as WD40) for cleaning up bitumen stains.

 

Firstly, dismantle the 3 pull handle bars. You would need to press the catch on top of the plastic covers before sliding them out to expose the metal clips below.

The handle bars can now be taken off easily by pulling the bar off the metal clips. The metal clips themselves can be squeezed inwards to loosen them and pushed back into the space behind. They can then be retrieved for safe-keeping by putting your fingers behind the roof lining to take them out.

Next, take out the 2 sun shades at the front. These are anchored to the roof lining with screws covered by a thin plastic cover. Just prise out the thin plastic cover with a screwdriver to expose the 2 screws which you can remove to dismantle the sun shades.

The cabin light are clipped to the roof and can be prised out easily with a screw driver:

The Latio's roof lining is held into place with 3 flushed-looking plastic clips above the rear seat. You need to use a screw driver and your fingers to prise them out one by one.

Next, remove the A and C-pillar covers after pulling down the door frame-edge rubber linings. Yank the plastic covers off their clips slowly and carefully. One of my C-pillar covers being pulled off below:

My A-pillar cover exposed after yanking off the plastic cover:

The B-pillar plastic cover is not easy to remove (too troublesome to take out the seat belt anchoring bolts) so I simply bent the roof lining with my fingers and prise them free them from the edges of the plastic cover.

Once you have removed the A and C pillar covers and loosened the section at the B pillar, you can start to lower the roof lining. As I had alot of trouble trying to remove the plastic studs used for holding the 2 sun shades at the front, I did not actually pull the entire roof lining off (Whitelatio and gang dropped by after I was almost done and he advised that these studs can be removed by pressing a catch with a screwdriver before pulling them out.... so ok next time would try this).

However, by simply lowering the roof lining, there is still sufficient space to paste my aluminium bitumen sheets at the front section. If you are doing it yourself, try Whitelatio's suggestion to remove the last two studs in order to release the whole lining.

The map reading lights/sunglass holder is one complete unit that is secured to the roof area by velcro so you simply need to pull the lining downwards to detach the map light unit from the roof surface. See the velcro on top of the black plastic section below:

Once the lining is pulled down, I would use a measuring tape to measure the roof spaces to cut big pieces of the self-adhesive aluminium-backed bitumen to fit the shape of each flat panel between the cage struts. After cutting two identical pieces, I pasted them together on the floor to get 2 layers thickness (3mm) before transferring them to the underside of the roof. Pat them down (in this case up) with your fist and palms to make sure they stuck well without any air gaps.

Here is a picture of the first double-layered piece pasted on the bare metal. I have to punch a small hole to keep the bitumen clear of the roof antenna's base:

Here is the rest of the roof panels pasted with the aluminium bitumen:

The purpose of the bitumen sheets is for mass-loading of the flimsy metal roof sheets to reduce noise transmission via panel resonance. It is not enough to block off direct noise intrusion. For that you would need to put a noise barrier sheet such as Superlon, a nitrile rubber closed-cell foam sheet commonly used for heat insulation.

Thus, before reassembling back the roof, I sandwiched a couple of the 1/4 inch thick Superlon sheets (trimmed to correct size) between the roof lining and the bitumen layers to supplement the fibre on the lining as a noise barrier. I cut one sheet for the rear section before the cabin light and one smaller sheet for the section after the cabin light ending before the map lights. Although the Superlon sheets are not self-adhesive, no glue is needed as the roof lining would hold them in place when closed back.

The roof metal sheet, which was rather filmsy before the SP, is now very well dampened and has a solid feeling. Some Lations dropped by just when I was about to finish and we did some side-by-side 'knocking tests' with RR's stock Latio which has not been SP (hehehe .... hers' really like a milo tin can).

It seems to work well as it rained heavily this morning on my way to work and I could not hear any noise from the heavily dampened roof except for the rain splattering sound on the windscreens. I also observed that on a dry day, the car also seems a little quieter as the dampened roof no longer resonate naturally like a speaker cone via vibrations conducted from other parts of the car when I am driving on the road.

I hope this little guide is a useful start for you to DIY soundproof the roof of your own ride.

[Maverick713]

>>U have any small free samples for me to try out?

 

Sure, I can cut for you a small sample to try out. I have just picked up some of these rolls for fellow forummers to DIY and so I still have extras in my boot at the moment.

 

Give me a call or sms me 97939121 to arrange a meetup.

 

Also, does it smell? I know that cable hunter and clasani sound mat has a very strong smell.

 

Surprising this type of bitumen sheet does not smell at all. I was expecting a strong bitumen or tar smell when I transported > 200kg of them in my car but I was surprised not to have smelled anything yet.

 

I believe it has a lot to do with the age of the material.... the longer it has been stored on the shelf, the lesser the detectable odour as the smell may have already fully dissipated into the atmosphere. BTW, these bitumen sheets were sent by sea from UK so I believe they are at least > 3 months old when I collected them so the smell had probably disappeared.

 

Cheers.

Edited December 15, 2005 by Maverick713

[DarkLord]

Bro, you got PM.

[Baconseet]

You may want to consider using the heat-resistant aluminium-backed bitumen sheets (sold in bulk rolls of 10m long, 1m wide and 1.5mm thick) that I have been distributing this to fellow foummers in the past 4 months. The cost of this is even lower than B-Quiet Ultimate and the aluminium metal layer used is as thick and firm as Dynamat Extreme's aluminium layer. This is unlike Cable Hunter and Raammat which have only filmsy metal layers. The bitumen compound used in this material is very similar to Extreme too.

 

You posted this:

1. Dynamat Extreme 36 sq ft approx S$3xx in local mkt

2. B-Quiet Ultimate 50 sq ft approx USD$125 import from canada.

 

Now check this out:

3. OEM Aluminium-backed bitumen sheets 10 sqm ~ 108 sq ft at $250 stocked locally by the manufacturer in big bulk rolls like this:

 

 

Some of my doors and roof pics of this cheapest material in action:

 

 

 

 

Hi Maverick,

 

Forgot to ask you about another factor to consider. Is your bitumen heavier than Bquiet or extreme? Both are light weight but not sure about the oem bitumen u're distributing.

thanks!

[Blitzza]

DIY. genius

Edited December 17, 2005 by Blitzza

[Maverick713]

>>Is your bitumen heavier than Bquiet or extreme? Both are light weight but not sure about the oem bitumen u're distributing.

 

I am not sure about Bquiet but when my aluminium bitumen is compared with Dynamat Extreme and Accumat Hyperflex, they all seems about the same weight for a piece of similar size and quantity. The main components going into them consist of bitumen compound and aluminium sheet. As both are almost similar in looks and feel, weight-wise they should be very similar.

 

All such aluminium-backed SP materials are slightly heavier than my plastic-backed bitumen (compared with a piece of the same size) because the aluminium sheet is a heavier grade of material than plain plastic sheets.

[Downxxer]

bro,

 

you still selling the material? how much needed to do the floor and roof? mine is a jazz.

[Apollo]

dun do roof lah.... tat will only b a problem when it rains.

 

the logic in SP is not to kill off all the noise. u can nebr achieve it, they will only become load parasite.

 

furthermore, there r natural elements which r large source of noise u cannot prevent. eg ur aircon blower.

 

the danger is that noise will revverates within the enclosed space and further amplify itself.

 

if ur intention is to prevent road noise... floor pan + doors. engine noise... fire wall + door + bonnet.

 

leave out the boot as a form of trap door for the noise to escape out. so instead of total enclosure, wat u end up if like a trough or tunnel.

[Ronckw]

maybe would cost up to S$600 - S$700..

 

again...it depends on the size of the car & the sound proofing material used...

[E200ml]

Hi anyone knows where is the best place to do soundproof for the whole car except the roof?

For my front 2 door i will be using Dynamat extreme, but for other part of the car thinking of using other brand, as dynamat extreme too ex.

Anyone can advise ?

[Nets]

Looking at price or quality installation?

If its quality installation and workmanship - I would recommend http://www.foonaudio.com.sg. Think they are open today.

Cheers!

[Sukoo]

Hi,

 

Dun think it'll be costly if u DIY. This should be an inspiration to you.

 

http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/vi...d=257969&page=1

 

The materials used are bitumen sheets. The construction industry is using it. If you've friends in the industry, perhaps can ask them whether they know where to get bitumen sheets.

 

Currently, there's a forummer in the ICE forum selling the bitumen sheets (what u see in the link). So far, he's the only one w such contacts & I feel that the price is a bit controlled.

 

bro ask u sometin

do u happen to noe where can i get those sound insulation tape for use on engine bonnet?

the big big pcs one at good price?

[Apollo]

asiatic refrigeration or far east refrigeration

 

look for 1/2" thick neoprene sheet..

 

apply with contact glue (chew nee gum)