Does Size Really Matters

[Kytl68]

In case some of you are wondering, I am talking about car battery size.

 

Today my battery (maintenance free) decide to suddenly die ... no warning one

 

Changed battery today ... the maintenance free type again .... german brand "HOS...." from C.A.S.

 

The new one is smaller in size than the older one ...... it does not have any indication of the capacity of the battery like the older one (that says 62AH) ... the service engineer there says it's ok no problem.

 

Wonder if smaller size equals to smaller AH capacity also ?

 

Does it make a different in this case if the AH is smaller ? I do not use too much stuff like ICE when engine is off ... only cabin light, alarm and to start the car of course.

 

Does it really matter since the alternator will take over once you start the car ?

 

By the way, what is the normal life span of the maintenance free battery ? 2, 3 or 4 years in Singapore climate ?

[Hattee]

Guess probably not much different between 2 new batteries (one big and small) in their initial life when they are fully charged and no deterioration in electrodes.

 

Beyond that, they will perform differently. Obviously, the smaller battery loses charge alot earlier in city driving with A/cond and headlight on. Not true that alternator supplies power all the time. It's the battery's turn to provide the power at the none-rms portion of the sine wave. Also, a misconception that battery charges up as fast as it giving out power - this never happens. Result of a battery losing charge is increase in ripples or no more pure DC.

 

That's why people notice the improvement by adding large capacitor like Z-stabiliser, Pivot or RMP. In other words alternator and battery seldom provide the needed pure DC for for smooth power, particularly for optimal ignition. With a smaller battery, your performance will be more adversely affected because of increased ripples with higher electrical loading from bigger A/cond, fuel pump, radiator fans etc for your big car.

 

Not only that. Smaller battery has thinner electrode to sustained sulphation and electrode shedding. End result is the battery ages alot earlier than the bigger battery. You probably ended up changing battery more frequent than usual. If battery is not changed timely might mean more jumpstart or towing. Of course, your longer than usual morning cranking can be early indication or your slight performance/FC deterioration.

 

Personally, I always go for the biggest capacity with the available space and mounting can take. And add to it a heat tolerant capacitive stabiliser. Going to smaller battery looks like a reversed thinking which I would be very interested to understand why.

[Bernard_2]

From my view . Size don't really matter. As long the battery can place in the battery compartment. Alternator will start charging the battery at around 2500 RMP. If you spending most time driving in city of cos electric will draw direct from your battery without charging. Normally in singapore a standard bettery life spend should not be less than 2 yrs.....

[Hattee]

You might be right. My neighbour still cranking his Camry every morning. He still stingch his battery even I measured his voltage only 10.8V. Guess he won't mind the rippling voltage received by the ECU, ignition coil, injector, fuel pump etc. Obviously, they still work. Having said that, I would think those spending $300 on Optima Battery might be wiser in taking care operating their $80,000-$100,000 toy.

[Pisces69]

Yup. Thing what Hattee says is very correct.

 

When new, the small battery sud b ok, but when it ages, it cannot produce the same output of the larger cousin. But good quality brand sud outlast a inferior brand sometimes.

 

i say this bcos I have a cheap Thailand made battery which is 3 years plus already & still going strong.

 

Service adviser will sure sure say, "No problem" bcos he sell you what. Take your money most important. He not going to tell you he sell you inferior product.

 

Always check the Amp/hr class. Bigger no. means more capacity. 65A/h means can discharge 65 amps for 1 hour without charge (when new).

 

Always make sure battery secured properly. When car bounce/shake, if not properly secured, the plates inside will rattle loose & you will lose the charge from that cell, which means less voltage discharged. When too many plates loose, your power is too little volts to power the electricals & you need a new battery.

[Worker]

A decent alternator will charge your battery even at idle RPM.

If not your headlites will be dim when you are waiting at the traffic lites.

And the voltage should not rise much even when the RPM is at max.

The Voltage Regulator's job is to keep things between roughly 13.5V to 14.5V at all times , depending on manufacturer.

 

Rgs

[Kytl68]

I thought so too ... that's when I went to the german battery website and found out more.

 

True enough, they recommend to replace same capacity as Manufacturer original size or bigger ... and they have larger battery capacity for the same model .... which I did not know why C.A.S. did not quote or fit for me

.... and more alarming when I check the battery was that the maintenance free battery wasn't really "maintenance free", it still has those screw cap for filling but sealed with a sticker.

 

Feeling a little short changed, I went back there a few days later (after reading and confirming from german battery website) .... they say that is maintenance free as far as they are concern and they did not fit the larger capacity because it could not fit into the space.

 

When I start to raise my voice and question why I was not informed about it in the first place, they could worried and offer me a refund (which I am still waiting for ... damn big company need 2-3 weeks for refund process)

 

So I ask them to fix my old/dead battery and drove to STAR in Bedok and got the PUMA Maintenance free battery .... REAL maintenance free one ..... with 60AH capacity ... at the same price as from C.A.S.

 

I recommend STAR over CAS to all the readers here .... no wonder only buses and taxis go there ... cause they sucks !!!!

 

Some more the service engineer also gave me a good tip on the grounding system ... not to fix one on the throttle which will increase FC ... it's seems to be working already ... together with my new battery, new ignition cables and with the grounding on the throttle body moved away ... my FC is better (slightly) ... every bit counts with today's oil price

[Kytl68]

Yes I agree charging will take place as long as the engine start ... the question is how fsat the charging will be .... as the alterntor is at max. charging at higher rpm than idle ... but trickle charging is still fine to maintain a battery.

 

That is the reason why when you start you car and remove the battery +ve connector, the system should still run ... otherwise either your alternator is dead or your battery needs help.

[Blaster]

  Quote

From my view . Size don't really matter. As long the battery can place in the battery compartment. Alternator will start charging the battery at around 2500 RMP. If you spending most time driving in city of cos electric will draw direct from your battery without charging. Normally in singapore a standard bettery life spend should not be less than 2 yrs.....

 

keke.....my battery is already 3 yrs old plus and is still working

 

but I've got HVS installed

Edited August 15, 2004 by Blaster

[Bernard_2]

Tat good 3 yrs...

[Esky]

Some manufacturers simply put a sticker over the filler caps and respray the normal batt to make it look like it's maintenance-free (usually black, I noticed) and sell it at MF price!

 

I've got a fren who used his Yokohama near-MF (low-maintenance) for 4.5 yrs!

[Smiley]

my small one died and agent changed to a bigger one. no diff leh.

[Smiley]

4.5 yr!!!! that is 2 batts in the car's lifespan!

[Esky]

Apparently this near-MF feature is quite good.

 

My normal Yokohama NS60 (45AH) is going to be 4 yrs old soon with the aid of a desulphator.

Edited August 16, 2004 by Esky

[Smiley]

i hope my new one dun die that fast. my 1st, stock only last fr 1.5 yrs.

[Esky]

Sometimes it's also dependent on yr luck- I once had a Yuasa which suddenly died at 1 yr 9 mths due to failure of 1 of the cells... I expected 2.5 yrs out of it, from experience with other batts.

 

I think Hattee's explanation is good enough for the Resources folder, don't u guys think?

Edited August 17, 2004 by Esky