Genie47 1st Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 I've just replaced my radiator unit. Old one seized up. New unit is a 2-layer radiator. Cooling is efficient. Too efficient! The car takes a long time to warm up to the mid-point. Only in traffic congestion conditions it warms up to mid-point. Else if I'm travelling at 80-100 on E'way, the needle is at 1/4 mark or lower. The wind chill seems to be a big factor. Also noticed that the engine has a vibrating idle when it is still cool. Anyway to solve this? ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 got the same prob when i did tat.. don know if it is good or bad.. I reseted my ECU and my mech re-tuned the air-fuel ratio on the TB and air manifold... normally should be at 1/2 mark on temp gauage on my old sunnie.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_t Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 depends on the idle rpm value.. Also noticed that the engine has a vibrating idle when it is still cool. Anyway to solve this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear October 13, 2003 Author Share October 13, 2003 Fuel consumption rises when the engine is too cool. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear October 13, 2003 Author Share October 13, 2003 Was fine until the radiator change. Must be the cooling efficiency that led to this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_t Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 speaking of which, I need to re-tune my AF ratio.. mine's been drinking too much of late. How does yr mech tune it ? I reseted my ECU and my mech re-tuned the air-fuel ratio on the TB and air manifold... normally should be at 1/2 mark on temp gauage on my old sunnie.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 yups.. ECU trying to heatup with higher fuel ratio.. safer to check with your mech... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_t Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 should monitor yr consumption before the radiator change and after it... then monitor again after a simple tune-up. I believe yrs is carburettor and it should be fairly simple to adjust the idling screw.... maybe u could try grounding to see if it helps in any way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 not sure if i got it correctly... there is a nut at the TB, another similar nut at the air manifold at one of the hose, not sure connected to wat.. 0. look at the idle rpm.. 1. tighten this, loosen that, 2. loosen that tighten this.., 3. rev up TB, 4. listen.. 5. repeat above until siong... drive reving around.. repeat if neccessary... no computer, no chart, just experience.... its cheap and its works, so no complain.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_t Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 that's wat my mech does too... the nut u r referring to is the metallic chunk just after the air box and before the TB ? That one is the MAF sensor, with a black screw in it to adjust the amt of air going into the TB. BTW, what's yr idle rpm wif aircon ON and aircon OFF ? does yr exhaust emit water during idle? thanx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear October 13, 2003 Author Share October 13, 2003 (edited) Mine is carburettor fed. No swanky EFI or ECU But imagine if I mod it with some kind of DIY EFI kit. 999cc car with EFI will give me 15-16km/L Edited October 13, 2003 by Genie47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 (edited) yups tats right... without air-con is 800rpm standard spec (auto), manual lower 600-700+ cant rem. with aircon hmm.. depends on your thermostat/compressor loading... if its a cold morning, don worry, normal condensation... but if hot afternoon, then betta get it check, maybe a water leak somewhere... Edited October 13, 2003 by Vidz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_t Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 mine's abt 900 wif aircon ON...without aircon, it's close to 850... compressor loading is ok, doesn't dip too much. CO level is good.. tested twice and passed inspection. but it's hell of a drinker and I'm not heavy footed. It's gone up over the last 2 months or so... used to be 9-9.8..now it's hovering between 8.9 to 9.5 km/litre. really puzzling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 check if there is engine roughness... FC also 2 tuning suggested: - A/F - water thermostat cos it will also control rad fan too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 i think your TB open too much liao... idle is 800rpm. tats an important factor or reference for the ECU... bet your car must be pretty toquey.. of cos, if you wan power and hack high FC, diff story.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zrun Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 Make sure your coolant temp sensor is ok. Is there some kind of device that controls the coolant flow rate into engine? If it is stuck at open, your engine might run too cold. That is not good because it is not at optimal temperature. After it has warmed up, my car's temp stays at the middle, even if it is 35+C outside and I am running full A/C, driving aggressively. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_t Neutral Newbie October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 torque quite ok... tune the MAF sensor until out of calibration liao... so need to properly tune it back. when engaged D1, car move forward liao...need to tune it back. also intending to reset ecu.. not sure if it'll help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidz 6th Gear October 13, 2003 Share October 13, 2003 once engaged into D, car will move a little forward. reset ECU first, if tat doesnt help then sent to mech. i believe ECU has only a limit to the amt of A/F. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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