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FC and performance for drivers


Kklee
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36 minutes ago, Toeknee_33 said:

Take a closer look.

Rivets to secure bumper, paint flaking and peeling and discoloured all over the place, headlamps are yellow, window films are cloudy, seatbelts badly frayed, the interior looks like a habitat to a zillion microbes.

Where got nice?

This dealer seriously bochap...can put up a car in this condition for sale.

dont try buying  from that monster. 

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There are so many factors that affect fuel consumption,

1. Driving route

2. Speed

3. RPM

4. Throttle control

5. Laden weight

6. Driver weight

7. Tyres used

8. Tyre pressure

9. Wheel diameter

10. Wheel width

11. Unsprung weight

And I haven't even got to the part about the car's mechanical health that will also affect fuel consumption :D

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My FC ranges from 6.5 - 8.5 (km/l) depending on my routes and driving pattern.

I used to monitor those figures very closely and give myself unnecessarily stress. Trying to keep my RPMs low, maintaining tortoise speed and other conscious efforts.

It completely took away all the joys and thrills of driving.

One day I attained enlightenment and stop caring about those figures, surprisingly it kept hovering around 8 - 8.5km/l these few months.

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Sometimes keeping your RPM low can cause the car to reach the maximum gear slower, hence not reaching peak fuel efficiency. Driving too slow also does not help in FC as car manufacturers optimize it at highway speed around 80-100km/h.

---

I convinced myself that I need to floor the accelerator once in a while to "clear carbon". Maybe it helped, maybe it didn't. One thing for sure - I had fun 😉

 

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When I get the car, I fully understand and expect the kind of FC values it should get. No use harping over it after that. Its mainly your right foot and driving habits. Just enjoy the ride man. 

I only monitor FC just to make sure it stays within a certain range of values, as part of routine checks. So every top up session will do manual calculation, which is probably every 7 to 11 days depending on my spiritedness or distance of travel. 

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4 hours ago, Beehive3783 said:

There are so many factors that affect fuel consumption,

1. Driving route  -   I choose optimum route
2. Speed - i drive at speed that is optimal for good FC
3. RPM - i drive at RPM that is optimal for good FC
4. Throttle control - I drive at throttle position that is optimal to good FC
5. Laden weight  - stock
6. Driver weight  - stock 
7. Tyres used -  the tyre I chose correspond to as close as what the OE specific for stability
8. Tyre pressure -  I pump the appropriate pressure corresponding to the ambient temperature that I would be driving in
9. Wheel diameter - stock
10. Wheel width - stock 
11. Unsprung weight -  I vary the tyre pressure in accordance to the recommended load index

And I haven't even got to the part about the car's mechanical health that will also affect fuel consumption :D  

Above in RED. 😊

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55 minutes ago, Aventa said:

I convinced myself that I need to floor the accelerator once in a while to "clear carbon". Maybe it helped, maybe it didn't. One thing for sure - I had fun 😉

This is very true for me.  At times, my prolong driving in a "sedated" manner,  the vehicle performs poorly. 🤣
Besides clearing carbon once in a while,  I try the pulse and glide method of driving too. 

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36 minutes ago, Phluvcat said:

When I get the car, I fully understand and expect the kind of FC values it should get. No use harping over it after that. Its mainly your right foot and driving habits. Just enjoy the ride man. 

I only monitor FC just to make sure it stays within a certain range of values, as part of routine checks. So every top up session will do manual calculation, which is probably every 7 to 11 days depending on my spiritedness or distance of travel. 

IMHO.
In the beginning,  I could never get close to what was specified.  However, that was within my expectation.  However, in recent,  I seem to be getting closer. 😎

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21 minutes ago, Kklee said:

IMHO.
In the beginning,  I could never get close to what was specified.  However, that was within my expectation.  However, in recent,  I seem to be getting closer. 😎

Haha specified by manufacturer or real life drivers? I is gather info from real life data since I got 2nd hand car. 

One reason FC not achieved is the myriads of sensor issues which messes up the FC and others mentioned by experts here, the rest more or less we know and can be controlled if we so very concerned by FC. 

My personal experience is sensor issues.

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3 minutes ago, Phluvcat said:

Haha specified by manufacturer or real life drivers? I is gather info from real life data since I got 2nd hand car. 

One reason FC not achieved is the myriads of sensor issues which messes up the FC and others mentioned by experts here, the rest more or less we know and can be controlled if we so very concerned by FC. 

My personal experience is sensor issues.

I only can use the manufacturer data because the real life data is everywhere ! 
The sensors are ok. 
The main difference I attribute it to is my usage pattern and engine oil - I had to do a bit of warm up in the morning. 
 

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18 minutes ago, Kklee said:

I only can use the manufacturer data because the real life data is everywhere ! 
The sensors are ok. 
The main difference I attribute it to is my usage pattern and engine oil - I had to do a bit of warm up in the morning. 
 

Ah my morning exercise routine is warm up for about 10 mins, which means 10mins or so of short shifting but not lugging the engine, go through all the gears, temp about normal, after is normal driving liao 😂

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31 minutes ago, Phluvcat said:

Ah my morning exercise routine is warm up for about 10 mins, which means 10mins or so of short shifting but not lugging the engine, go through all the gears, temp about normal, after is normal driving liao 😂

I take about 2 mins,  about 1 min for engine and another 1 min for transmission.  I got nothing to shift because it's CVT !  🤣
The CVT fluid needs to be warm and also, within the 3-4mins, I will need to tackle a rather steep incline. 
Between the mid incline and the peak,  the coolant temperature would have reach the "engine operating temperature" at  70 degrees. 

I would say the 2 mins is very critical.   The transmission behaves differently if that is not done. 

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3 hours ago, Kklee said:

This is very true for me.  At times, my prolong driving in a "sedated" manner,  the vehicle performs poorly. 🤣
Besides clearing carbon once in a while,  I try the pulse and glide method of driving too. 

Interesting.. Just went to read about pulse and glide, never done that before. Wouldn't it cause wear and tear of the transmission to maintain it in neutral so often?

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5 minutes ago, Aventa said:

Interesting.. Just went to read about pulse and glide, never done that before. Wouldn't it cause wear and tear of the transmission to maintain it in neutral so often?

AFAIK, there are many variations to pulse and glide - for me,  I do not go to neutral.  It is quite easily done when there is a down incline.   The FC can go above  30km/L. 
I did try the pulse and glide with neutral - on a 4AT transmission.  No adverse effect.  However,  that 4AT gearbox, I was strict with the ATF level,  choice of ATF and use a modified ATF change schedule.   
I still have not figured out totally CVT. 🤣

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(edited)
17 minutes ago, flat6 said:

took delivery of the 'family' car in Nov 2020.

with mileage like this, FC is not high on the list. 🙂

20210316_232430[1].jpg

IMHO.  What should be your priority is to run-in or break-in the car. 

Edited by Kklee
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5 hours ago, Kklee said:

Above in RED. 😊

 

5 hours ago, Kklee said:

This is very true for me.  At times, my prolong driving in a "sedated" manner,  the vehicle performs poorly. 🤣
Besides clearing carbon once in a while,  I try the pulse and glide method of driving too. 

 

4 hours ago, Kklee said:

I only can use the manufacturer data because the real life data is everywhere ! 
The sensors are ok. 
The main difference I attribute it to is my usage pattern and engine oil - I had to do a bit of warm up in the morning. 
 

Your posts...got say like never say...I also don't know what to say 🙄

 

 

1 hour ago, Kklee said:

AFAIK, there are many variations to pulse and glide - for me,  I do not go to neutral.  It is quite easily done when there is a down incline.   The FC can go above  30km/L. 
I did try the pulse and glide with neutral - on a 4AT transmission.  No adverse effect.  However,  that 4AT gearbox, I was strict with the ATF level,  choice of ATF and use a modified ATF change schedule.   
I still have not figured out totally CVT. 🤣

I seriously hope forummers here DO NOT take your advice seriously. Neutral on AT/CVT kills your GB in no time 😓

 

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(edited)
6 hours ago, Toeknee_33 said:

 

 

Your posts...got say like never say...I also don't know what to say 🙄

 

 

I seriously hope forummers here DO NOT take your advice seriously. Neutral on AT/CVT kills your GB in no time 😓

 

IMHO. I believe folks here will be able to make their own decisions.  In most instances, I related what I did. 
Perhaps you can share on the cases that you know about where the AT/CVT got killed by neutral. 

I apologies if my post may appear to be "say like never say" .  At times,  it is just too much to describe with more sentences. . In red below. 

I only can use the manufacturer data because the real life data is everywhere !  <-  I rely on manufacturer data because it is consistent. Other real life data is not conclusive. 
The sensors are ok.  <-  The sensors I can read with my level of understanding is normal. 
The main difference I attribute it to is my usage pattern and engine oil - I had to do a bit of warm up in the morning.  <-   The inconsistency of real life data. Not everyone does warm up.  

Likewise for "Above in RED".   I just want to find out "say like never say " is for which parts?  Maybe to help me, you can share your understanding. 

Anyway, as mentioned in the beginning the purpose of this thread is to share.   It is up to to individual whether it makes sense or do likewise. 

Edited by Kklee
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7 hours ago, Kklee said:

IMHO.  What should be your priority is to run-in or break-in the car. 

Modern Cars no need special ''Run In'',just drive like Normal can do.

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