Fuel Pump

[Goldenvodka]

Flipping through the user manual of my vehicle.

It seems that the fuel filter has to be replaced every 105000KM.

However by looking at the workshop manual/diagram it seems that the filter comes together with the pump and it cannot be replaced by its own.

 

 

Edited February 27, 2020 by Goldenvodka

[Apple-Tree]

3 hours ago, Goldenvodka said:

Just sent my vehicle to the workshop 

today afternoon it took 3 tries to start. Vehicle is able to crack however unable to turn over.

Without delays I drove it to straight to the workshop 

Workshop is also unable to get any trouble code from computer 

no choice but to leave it there for further checks.

At the workshop, the trouble seems to be gone. Vehicle is able to start at the first try every time.

Air sensors filters and all maintenance wear and tear parts has all been checked and it’s in good condition.

Symptoms of a Bad Ignition Coil

#1 – Backfiring. Backfiring caused by your vehicle can indicate the symptoms of the ignition coil failure in its early stages. ...

#2 – Poor Fuel Economy. ...

#3 – Engine Misfiring. ...

#4 – Vehicle Stalling. ...

#5 – Engine Jerking, Rough idling, Poor Power. ...

#6 – Check Engine Light On / DTC Code. ...

#7 – Engine Hard Starting. ...

CNP Coil Type.

 

Best way to check, smell it.   I never have a BIC before.  Now, best no BIC, how to have a failure.....

 

[Goldenvodka]

Vehicle did not stall, unable to start for the entire day of testing at the workshop

Workshop also did not observe rough idling. Everything is just smooth.

Parking on a hill test is also conducted with no findings at all.

Guess I would have to live with it until it is totally unmoveable and to be towned to a workshop.

Computer kit also unable to find any error codes

 

Edited February 28, 2020 by Goldenvodka

[Hamburger]

Change a workshop

[Mkl22]

Immobilizer? Is the key on the dash all this time? And it’s in your pocket when you try to start? Try putting it on the dash the next week. 

[Goldenvodka]

21 hours ago, Mkl22 said:

Immobilizer? Is the key on the dash all this time? And it’s in your pocket when you try to start? Try putting it on the dash the next week. 

Key is in my pocket. Battery was changed last year

[mersaylee]

2 hours ago, Goldenvodka said:

Key is in my pocket. Battery was changed last year

What are the voltage readings on the battery and alternator?

[Goldenvodka]

23 hours ago, mersaylee said:

What are the voltage readings on the battery and alternator?

Didn’t check that out but WS told me both was in normal status when they tested with a battery analyser 

[Goldenvodka]

2 successful 1 time crank and start since I took the car from the workshop. I purposely put the keys on the dashboard when attempting to start the vehicle

[Mkl22]

17 minutes ago, Goldenvodka said:

2 successful 1 time crank and start since I took the car from the workshop. I purposely put the keys on the dashboard when attempting to start the vehicle

Try it for a week and then change the batteries inside the remote. 

[Goldenvodka]

Been a week. I have since changed the battery of both keys. Did not have any weird symptoms anymore.

thanks guys. Didn’t expect a faulty/weak battery key can cause a car to unable to start properly

when the car is at WS, it did not show any kind of symptom as the key is always placed on the dashboard near the driver seat. No wonder

Edited March 10, 2020 by Goldenvodka

[Mkl22]

1 hour ago, Goldenvodka said:

Been a week. I have since changed the battery of both keys. Did not have any weird symptoms anymore.

thanks guys. Didn’t expect a faulty/weak battery key can cause a car to unable to start properly

when the car is at WS, it did not show any kind of symptom as the key is always placed on the dashboard near the driver seat. No wonder

you are welcome!😁

[Othello]

1 hour ago, Goldenvodka said:

 

thanks guys. Didn’t expect a faulty/weak battery key can cause a car to unable to start properly

you dun say .. one of my ex-car low batt ... wah lan eh, all the error messages pop out, my balls shrink. 

ABS failure, Air bag failure and dunno simi sai failure .... just 2 weeks after I bought it

[Micb]

Hi there,

Anyone can recommended a workshop that can perform a proper fuel delivery and pressure test? 

The family camry has the following issues:

- Difficulty starting in morning or when engine is cold.  It takes a longer crank and when it turns over, engine will sputter as if not enough fuel (rpm very low) and dies out.  It will then start as normal again.

- When travelling on constant throttle between 78 - 85 km/h range, the rpm will fluctuate causing the car to jerk.  The jerking issue will go away if the throttle pedal is released or by increasing speed to 90km/h.

So far, we had changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the fuel injectors and throttle body, and the in-tank fuel filter.    Spark plugs are less than 20k.

I plug in a simple OBD reader, and no CEL or codes.  But noticed that the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is very high, always around 18-20%, which means the engine is running lean (learnt from the web).

So, need help here to recommend a proper WS with good knowledge on fuel pressure diagnostics.

Thank you.

[t0y0ta]

12 minutes ago, Micb said:

Hi there,

Anyone can recommended a workshop that can perform a proper fuel delivery and pressure test? 

The family camry has the following issues:

- Difficulty starting in morning or when engine is cold.  It takes a longer crank and when it turns over, engine will sputter as if not enough fuel (rpm very low) and dies out.  It will then start as normal again.

- When travelling on constant throttle between 78 - 85 km/h range, the rpm will fluctuate causing the car to jerk.  The jerking issue will go away if the throttle pedal is released or by increasing speed to 90km/h.

So far, we had changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the fuel injectors and throttle body, and the in-tank fuel filter.    Spark plugs are less than 20k.

I plug in a simple OBD reader, and no CEL or codes.  But noticed that the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is very high, always around 18-20%, which means the engine is running lean (learnt from the web).

So, need help here to recommend a proper WS with good knowledge on fuel pressure diagnostics.

Thank you.

VVT-i oil pressure issue?

Maybe the valve timing is not adjusting in the right way, so too lean (scavenging) at low RPM

[Watwheels]

23 minutes ago, Micb said:

Hi there,

Anyone can recommended a workshop that can perform a proper fuel delivery and pressure test? 

The family camry has the following issues:

- Difficulty starting in morning or when engine is cold.  It takes a longer crank and when it turns over, engine will sputter as if not enough fuel (rpm very low) and dies out.  It will then start as normal again.

- When travelling on constant throttle between 78 - 85 km/h range, the rpm will fluctuate causing the car to jerk.  The jerking issue will go away if the throttle pedal is released or by increasing speed to 90km/h.

So far, we had changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the fuel injectors and throttle body, and the in-tank fuel filter.    Spark plugs are less than 20k.

I plug in a simple OBD reader, and no CEL or codes.  But noticed that the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is very high, always around 18-20%, which means the engine is running lean (learnt from the web).

So, need help here to recommend a proper WS with good knowledge on fuel pressure diagnostics.

Thank you.

A failing fuel pump should have some low humming noise coming from the fuel tank. Since you have already replaced so many parts have you checked the ignition coils?

How old is your camry btw?

[Watwheels]

12 minutes ago, t0y0ta said:

VVT-i oil pressure issue?

Maybe the valve timing is not adjusting in the right way, so too lean (scavenging) at low RPM

If the vvti timing gear is stuck in position there should be some kinda loud noise coming from the engine.

[Micb]

It's an old COE'd 2008 Camry.   The car runs fine most of the time (except for the jerking at 80km/h) and the rpm is stable, so not suspecting the coil plugs.  

There is no CEL or codes, except once in a long while, can hear a clack clack sound which last only 1-2 secs, during morning start.

The ws which did the parts change, is a OMO old school mechanic based on experience.   He does not have the correct tools to diagnose, thus need a more professional approach.

 

23 minutes ago, t0y0ta said:

VVT-i oil pressure issue?

Maybe the valve timing is not adjusting in the right way, so too lean (scavenging) at low RPM

 

11 minutes ago, Watwheels said:

A failing fuel pump should have some low humming noise coming from the fuel tank. Since you have already replaced so many parts have you checked the ignition coils?

How old is your camry btw?