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Nissan Latio Weird Problem


Mercur1al
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Hi guys, have a really weird problem and wonder if anyone has had anything similar happen. I will eventually send to workshop, but fairly busy now so would like to see if anyone has an idea what's going on.

A couple of months ago, car batt dead and couldn't start. Jump started and all was good. As battery was only a few months old, I dismissed it and though I perhaps had forgotten to turn off headlights.

Today the same thing happened. I last drove the car for around 10km at 7am, parked at office. At 12pm when I tried to start car, couldn't crank. Got my colleague to jump start, drove for 1-2km and parked. While jump starting, car exhibited all the signs of a flat battery, light flickering, weak cranking etc. Once we parked, Straight away car couldn't crank again. After lunch, we jump started again and left car running without load for 45 mins. Once turned off, car couldn't start right away.

Double checked the battery terminals and there was plenty of corrosion on them. Cleaned up, tightened the terminals and cranking was instantly very strong. Contrast this to 5 mins ago where there was no cranking at all. Despite the strong cranking though, car couldn't start. We suspected fuel pump issues, opened the fuel cover to vent the fumes and car instantly could start.

Leaves me perplexed though as this seems intermittent:

Battery initially exhibited signs of low charge, but later on the strong cranking showed it's fine. Fuel pump suspected as well, but that will not cause the issue of no cranking at all.

ECU is the only thing that comes to mind. Anyone encountered anything similar?

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Alternator dying so poor charge?

I did consider alternator, but correct me if I'm wrong, if it's alternator car should have stalled when I left it idling for 45 mins without connecting jumpers
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No cranking could be due to the corroded battery terminals. Alternator should be OK if voltage is around 13.5V to 14.0VDC.

Intermittent starting issue could be due to sticky throttle body.

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Isn't it better go back tan chong? U pay more but at least the problem will be solved

 

Car has less than a month to go so would probably not. I'm in close contact with a couple of service advisors and mechanics from Authorised dealers, you will be surprised how little they know.

 

I think part of the issue is the high turnover, many of these mechanics and SAs are Malaysians, who after working a few years, save up enough to head home to operate a small workshop to be closer to their families. After all, car repair and diagnostics, while increasingly automated and computerised nowadays, still relies heavily on experience. The frequent turnover means the mechanics are usually fairly new in their jobs, competent with changing of parts etc but troubleshooting stumps them

No cranking could be due to the corroded battery terminals. Alternator should be OK if voltage is around 13.5V to 14.0VDC.

Intermittent starting issue could be due to sticky throttle body.

 

I suspected the no cranking was due to the corroded battery terminals as well. Will further clean it up over the weekend and ensure everything is tight and nice.

 

Voltage was at 13.3V earlier while driving... but take it as a reference cause its a cheapo plug into cig charger kind of voltage meter.

 

Sticky throttle body... hmm will probably take a look at it. However, throttle body was last replaced two months back. Granted i used a second hand part though, but idling/driving etc has been really smooth.

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Supersonic

Cannot crank or turnover engine -> battery, terminal, connection issue

 

Can crank/turnover but engine will not fire -> engine issue

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1 month left...i dont think its a problem at all dude... few hundreds just to let go only

 

my latio auto tranny got issue and i still have 7 mths to go, big headache!

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Car has less than a month to go so would probably not. I'm in close contact with a couple of service advisors and mechanics from Authorised dealers, you will be surprised how little they know.

 

I think part of the issue is the high turnover, many of these mechanics and SAs are Malaysians, who after working a few years, save up enough to head home to operate a small workshop to be closer to their families. After all, car repair and diagnostics, while increasingly automated and computerised nowadays, still relies heavily on experience. The frequent turnover means the mechanics are usually fairly new in their jobs, competent with changing of parts etc but troubleshooting stumps them

 

I suspected the no cranking was due to the corroded battery terminals as well. Will further clean it up over the weekend and ensure everything is tight and nice.

 

Voltage was at 13.3V earlier while driving... but take it as a reference cause its a cheapo plug into cig charger kind of voltage meter.

 

Sticky throttle body... hmm will probably take a look at it. However, throttle body was last replaced two months back. Granted i used a second hand part though, but idling/driving etc has been really smooth.

 

Yes. They really don know what they are doing.  I sent my previous car for repair (air-con issue and car vibrating).  air-con issue return within 3 weeks.  For the car vibrating issue, they manged to fix it but not before recommending to change this and that.  Waste time waste money. 

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I suspected the no cranking was due to the corroded battery terminals as well. Will further clean it up over the weekend and ensure everything is tight and nice.

 

Voltage was at 13.3V earlier while driving... but take it as a reference cause its a cheapo plug into cig charger kind of voltage meter.

 

Sticky throttle body... hmm will probably take a look at it. However, throttle body was last replaced two months back. Granted i used a second hand part though, but idling/driving etc has been really smooth.

It is advisable to connect a small 12V backup battery at the circuit side before removing the battery terminals. This is to prevent the clock, radio settings from being lost as well as not allowing the ECU to be reset to factory default.

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It is advisable to connect a small 12V backup battery at the circuit side before removing the battery terminals. This is to prevent the clock, radio settings from being lost as well as not allowing the ECU to be reset to factory default.

may be fuel

pump

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Sorry to hijack this thread.I drive a Nissan latio (2006). On and off i used to experience "knocking" or "woofing" sound on my rear wheel whenever i brake on low speed and recently i got my 4 tyres and rims changed but apparently the knocking sound got even louder and more frequent. My brakes are brand new changed in feb 17 and my mechanic couldn't find anything that was broken or was wrong. 

 

Anyone has any idea what the problem could be?Braking wise i have no issues but the sound makes me uncomfortable and i do not want some parts dropping off halfway while driving.

 

Much appreciated help from experienced drivers here.

 

Thanks!

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Isn't it better go back tan chong? U pay more but at least the problem will be solved

Many AD workshope is worst than outside specialise workshop.

Old car no need go AD. Just waste money.

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Sorry to hijack this thread.I drive a Nissan latio (2006). On and off i used to experience "knocking" or "woofing" sound on my rear wheel whenever i brake on low speed and recently i got my 4 tyres and rims changed but apparently the knocking sound got even louder and more frequent. My brakes are brand new changed in feb 17 and my mechanic couldn't find anything that was broken or was wrong. 

 

Anyone has any idea what the problem could be?Braking wise i have no issues but the sound makes me uncomfortable and i do not want some parts dropping off halfway while driving.

 

Much appreciated help from experienced drivers here.

 

 

i experience some sound ( some like "ek" "ek" sound) from rear wheel everytime i do my tyre rotation. So my workshop will do cleaning ( just simple clean using some oil and air spray) for my brake and the noise gone. Anyway, last year had scraped my latio. 

Sorry to hijack this thread.I drive a Nissan latio (2006). On and off i used to experience "knocking" or "woofing" sound on my rear wheel whenever i brake on low speed and recently i got my 4 tyres and rims changed but apparently the knocking sound got even louder and more frequent. My brakes are brand new changed in feb 17 and my mechanic couldn't find anything that was broken or was wrong. 

 

Anyone has any idea what the problem could be?Braking wise i have no issues but the sound makes me uncomfortable and i do not want some parts dropping off halfway while driving.

 

Much appreciated help from experienced drivers here.

 

 

i experience some sound ( some like "ek" "ek" sound) from rear wheel everytime i do my tyre rotation. So my workshop will do cleaning ( just simple clean using some oil and air spray) for my brake and the noise gone. Anyway, last year had scraped my latio. 

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