Home repair advice needed

[nazerath]

I have a main door that is sagging such that the bottom actually touches the floor at the furthest end when closing but I fixed that by sanding with the door on. The problem seems like the highest hinge is a bit loose causing the tilt but I cannot tighten it because the door frame is steel and the holes are a bit worn.

 

Was thinking of anchoring it with long screws but how can I grip the concrete that is behind the door frame? I cannot insert a plug or anchor through the hinge hole and the screws must be able to seat flush at the hinge.

 

 

Another is a concrete top that is seeping water, not leaking, just that the splashing from washing causes it to land on the edges n seep to the bottom. Plumbers putty would work but can I get them to cover a 2 inch by 36inch by half inch cheaply.

At half inch would cement be able to stop the seepage?

 

I cannot engage pros because I do not want to invest too much.

[Watwheels]

You may enlarge the worn holes and thread the hole and dan use a larger size countersunk head screw since the door frame is steel. You will have to drill a larger bolt hole on your hindge too.

 

But you will need to buy tools like a hand tap set to thread the hole. Get a handle for the tap.

You got to have a hand drill and drill bit.

Depending on the existing hole you have to choose which next bigger size to use.

 

Where to buy the screws. What size to buy.

If no professional help I think it's not easy for you.

Edited June 13, 2016 by Watwheels

[Jtb]

one option is to dismantle the door completely

http://www.motherland.com.sg/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144

 

plane the bottom at the lowest side that obstructed the floor.

The hinges side you may want to re position or compromise

with good wall plug. I can understand the door side wooden part

is deteriorating by the water. 

 

In any case this also make locking misaligned in due time.

[Adrianli]

I had a door installer came to change my bedroom doors. I ask him to help look at my main door which is sagging. I got to lift the door upwards by the handle to lock the door. He gladly did. He took out his flat head screwdriver and a hammer. He start placing the screwdriver on the top hinges and start using the hammer to bang it hard a few times. He repeated the process a few times. Now the main door is aligned!!!

 

It has been three years since and the main door is still aligned.

 

 

 

That is one japanese kang woo!!! I dont recommend u try but u can try if u dont mind damaging the door hinge.

[BanCoe]

IF you can post photo or pix of the so called 2" x 36" gap for your counter sink would help; as I sort of cannot imagine such a big gap; Maybe you have to like get a piece of plastic which is like 2" x 36" and try to "fit it in" - but you still must get it held up by silicon or something like that, maybe you can use those white pvc casings used for covering wires and cut part of it with a cutter but you must know how to anchor it by using masking tapes to get some support after you have silicon it (use white colour one) to sort of camouflage the pvc casing or trunking or get a wood piece (but again wood would get mouldy) since its a "wet zone"       

[Jamesc]

Simple just add more hinges.

 

If your door has 5 hinges

 

add 2 more closer to the top.

 

No need to remove the existing

 

hinges or trying to make the hole

 

smaller or use longer screws.

 

[nazerath]

 

 

Hi all thanks for your replies, I think I will try knocking it and adding more hinges first.

 

There is no gap at the washing area, not where the eye can see, it was previously siliconed but mold problem exist. The 2 by 36 is actually a concrete area behind the sink where water would accumulate n eventually find its way down slowly.

[Beehive3783]

You cannot use concrete/cement to stop leaks/seepage as they are porous by nature.

[Adrianli]

Hi all thanks for your replies, I think I will try knocking it and adding more hinges first.

 

There is no gap at the washing area, not where the eye can see, it was previously siliconed but mold problem exist. The 2 by 36 is actually a concrete area behind the sink where water would accumulate n eventually find its way down slowly.

 

Try using the screwdriver and knock on the screws at an angle. So that the screw will "eat" into the door frame at an angle thus securing the hinge further in. That is what I saw the guy doing.

 

Please use some strength too.

[Kb27]

Add more hinges to the top. Make sure they are heavy duty ones.

My heavy fire-proof front door also same problem.

I added one more hinge at the top and the problem is solved.

 

Heavy doors will tend to do this.

 

And standard installation only do hinges spread throughout the length of the door, which is not very effective.

 

If you can, avoid using philips or slotted screws. They stripped and are a pain in the butt to remove.

Use either torx or square, stainless steel screws.

 

Filled the hole with mold resistant silicone caulk. They are waterproof

Edited June 13, 2016 by Kb27

[Jamesc]

Try using the screwdriver and knock on the screws at an angle. So that the screw will "eat" into the door frame at an angle thus securing the hinge further in. That is what I saw the guy doing.

 

Please use some strength too.

 

These two things are exactly what my wife told me too. 

 

I think she must be a natural wood worker.

 

[Porker]

These two things are exactly what my wife told me too.

 

I think she must be a natural wood worker.

 

Yeah your wood or the real wood?

[Jamesc]

Yeah your wood or the real wood?

[nazerath]

 

 

the screw that mounts the hinge into the steel frame is only like a 6mm diameter and 10mm long screw.

[nazerath]

make the hole smaller

 

or

 

use longer screws.

 

 

Hmmmmmmm..........someone supercharged today

[Adrianli]

the screw that mounts the hinge into the steel frame is only like a 6mm diameter and 10mm long screw.

 

10mm long? Isnt that too short??? 10mm = 1cm

 

I say change it to 20 or 25mm and add some thread lock into the hole.

[Kb27]

the screw that mounts the hinge into the steel frame is only like a 6mm diameter and 10mm long screw.

 

I doubt the length is correct. If you can, remove it and measure, thickness and length is important.

 

The screw is rated, #6, #8 or #10 in thickness. Length is usually 1 to 1.5 inch depending on the frame.

 

There's flat-head concrete screw available, but I'm not sure if it can hold both hinge/steel frame and concrete together.

 

If you're seeing a 1 cm length screw, it might have broken off, with the rest stuck inside.

 

Edited June 13, 2016 by Kb27

[nazerath]

10mm long? Isnt that too short??? 10mm = 1cm

 

I say change it to 20 or 25mm and add some thread lock into the hole.

Unfortunately that is right because the frame is made of tubular steel and the area that the screw touches is probably 4 mm max.

 

Using a longer screw won't help unless I can extend it beyond the hollow steel onto the concrete wall. That is making this repair hard.

I doubt the length is correct. If you can, remove it and measure, thickness and length is important.

 

The screw is rated, #6, #8 or #10 in thickness. Length is usually 1 to 1.5 inch depending on the frame.

 

There's flat-head concrete screw available, but I'm not sure if it can hold both hinge/steel frame and concrete together.

 

If you're seeing a 1 cm length screw, it might have broken off, with the rest stuck inside.

Those are wood screw sizes. The one that goes into the frame looks like a m6 x 10 to me. Machine screw equivalent of 6mm diameter n 10mm length.