Opel Astra 2016

[Kiario]

As Kiario has indicated, the daytime running light (DRL) will always be on, for headlamp it will turn on and off accordingly, but note that these headlamps are configured to turn on even during the day as long as it is a little dim, e.g. just before rain. You should verify this at an open air car park.

 

For the iRoad Q7, if you want "active" recording then you need connect the iRoad battery pack. For non-active recording, i.e. car park mode based on sensors, then you do not need to do anything. It will record everything, but will always have a delay. The sensors on the Q7 will be active, i.e. if someone move in front of the car or push/knock the car, the Q7 will "wake up" and then record. However, as you would have noticed, from the time you start your engine to the time that you hear "start recording" is at least about 3 to 5 secs, that's how long Q7 needs to wake up. So in this case, if someone is vandalizing your car you will be able to record the activities after that initial 3-5 secs, not immediately.

 

Just connect to your Q7 and review the event videos and you will see that there are a lot of recordings done at the car park but with no activities, what happens is someone walk past your car and Q7 started recording 3-5 secs later, i.e. by the time the person would have passed your car. Check it out.

 

I think there is nothing wrong both with the light and also Q7. Check it out. Cheers!

 

I don't think so. I checked my events and there are no recordings once I left the car.

if you notice, ignition off, car camera still running. once you opened the doors, iroad will shutdown completely.

I called AG and they confirmed they wire this way.

[Johnny86]

Parking mode recording not enabled as the battery may not be able to cope with starting car next day. The AGM batteries are a little different than conventional Batts

[Bezybeez]

High speed I'm referring to the depends on the engine capacity. A 1.0T and 1.4T, the rpm are different due to gear ratio. Let say running 180km/h is fine with 1.4T but it is very stressful to 1.0T engine and have to work harder. After all engine capacity play a part in a durable turbo setup if you intend to run at constant high speed. There is no replacement for displacement...

The 1.0L cruise comfortably 130kmh @ 3000rpm. But its good to know it can be pushed anytime when needed.

Ive tried 3rd gear almost to red line @ 130kmh..just to see the limits.

Best of all fuel consumption still give 7.1 L/100km.

The car comes with 5yrs and unlimited milleage warranty..which should include the turbo charger i supposed.

[Chisiang]

Hi Chisiang.. Where u bought the philips.. Price like ?

 

I too lazy to buy from online, and these halogen bulbs blows like nobody business. Furthermore the UK forums reported our headlamp need CANBUS bulbs. 

 

Happened to chance about it at Autobacs.

 

The guy in charge of the bulbs department said got 6 months warranty. I said if got check bulb warning can refund or exchange, they said no problem.

 

I went for the OSRAM bulbs at first since they got blueish bulbs. No good. After install, right lamp check bulb warning came on second day (but no problem with the bulb, still bright and working).

 

Went back Autobacs to exchange to another OSRAM bulbs with lower wattage. After 2 days left lamp check bulb warning came on.

 

Went back Autobacs to exchange again. This time I went for the Phillips one (with top up) with CANBUS. No check lamp! But they only made yellow bulb (those LTA friendly type)

 

OSRAM bulbs I paid like $80+. Phillips ones are $90+. You can buy online which is easily 40% off.

[Sam_cool0313]

As Kiario has indicated, the daytime running light (DRL) will always be on, for headlamp it will turn on and off accordingly, but note that these headlamps are configured to turn on even during the day as long as it is a little dim, e.g. just before rain. You should verify this at an open air car park.

 

For the iRoad Q7, if you want "active" recording then you need connect the iRoad battery pack. For non-active recording, i.e. car park mode based on sensors, then you do not need to do anything. It will record everything, but will always have a delay. The sensors on the Q7 will be active, i.e. if someone move in front of the car or push/knock the car, the Q7 will "wake up" and then record. However, as you would have noticed, from the time you start your engine to the time that you hear "start recording" is at least about 3 to 5 secs, that's how long Q7 needs to wake up. So in this case, if someone is vandalizing your car you will be able to record the activities after that initial 3-5 secs, not immediately.

 

Just connect to your Q7 and review the event videos and you will see that there are a lot of recordings done at the car park but with no activities, what happens is someone walk past your car and Q7 started recording 3-5 secs later, i.e. by the time the person would have passed your car. Check it out.

 

I think there is nothing wrong both with the light and also Q7. Check it out. Cheers!

Thanks bro for the detail info.

But I couldn't find recording under Event. What I found is only normal recording while the car is moving. I think I will need to get battery pack for the parking mode function.

 

Btw I notice another thing just now, when I my car under N gear with air con on, my car has noticeable vibration especially when I open driver side door. I can see my driver door is shaking...any bro here also encounter the same issue? Or this is normal??

[Kiario]

Nope, is not normal. Mine is 1.0 hb.

[Tkew]

Thanks bro for the detail info.

But I couldn't find recording under Event. What I found is only normal recording while the car is moving. I think I will need to get battery pack for the parking mode function.

 

Btw I notice another thing just now, when I my car under N gear with air con on, my car has noticeable vibration especially when I open driver side door. I can see my driver door is shaking...any bro here also encounter the same issue? Or this is normal??

 

Maybe I have mistaken, but vaguely remember seeing those files in the Event Folder, maybe it is old age.

I don't think so. I checked my events and there are no recordings once I left the car.

if you notice, ignition off, car camera still running. once you opened the doors, iroad will shutdown completely.

I called AG and they confirmed they wire this way.

Maybe I have mistaken, but vaguely remember seeing those files in the Event Folder, maybe it is old age. 

[JasonPara]

My previous car is a Avante and driven for 7 good years since new.... super fuel saving... No rattles until the 7th year where the passenger door started to have rattles... no break down or major repair... except one minor repair when the steering wheel got noise when turning at the 5th year due to some to rubber mounting worn off... of course, no electronics problem as Avante is just a plain day-day car without much fancy features...

 

Having this new ASTRA 1.4T HB for more half a year, initially have high expectation since not only it is German engineered, but also comes with newer and advanced technology.. Disappointment started to kick in after a few weeks... rattle noises started and is audible even with radio is on... Electronics (auto headlight... auto wipers... radio) started to have weird behaviors and sometimes not functioning.. interior built is not up to expectation... noise when depress and release accelerator... to make things worst... incompetent AG workshop... However, something to compensate all these problems... Astra K 1.4T HB is cheap.. affordable.. low loan interest rate and is a powerful ride with fast acceleration to change lane and overtake if you choose the turbo version...

 

I would advise new buyer to lower their expectation to avoid disappointment... that's my personal view...

I would say the major disappointment comes from AG service centre. AG need to look into the experience of their service staff and not having staff that's pushes away the defects by giving some general "BS" . Edited August 2, 2017 by JasonPara

[kelaihoyin]

I too lazy to buy from online, and these halogen bulbs blows like nobody business. Furthermore the UK forums reported our headlamp need CANBUS bulbs. 

 

Happened to chance about it at Autobacs.

 

The guy in charge of the bulbs department said got 6 months warranty. I said if got check bulb warning can refund or exchange, they said no problem.

 

I went for the OSRAM bulbs at first since they got blueish bulbs. No good. After install, right lamp check bulb warning came on second day (but no problem with the bulb, still bright and working).

 

Went back Autobacs to exchange to another OSRAM bulbs with lower wattage. After 2 days left lamp check bulb warning came on.

 

Went back Autobacs to exchange again. This time I went for the Phillips one (with top up) with CANBUS. No check lamp! But they only made yellow bulb (those LTA friendly type)

 

OSRAM bulbs I paid like $80+. Phillips ones are $90+. You can buy online which is easily 40% off.

 

Oh so you have been using LED bulbs or HID since need CANBUS? 

[Chisiang]

Oh so you have been using LED bulbs or HID since need CANBUS? 

 

Using Halogen bulbs.

 

I bought a set of HID from HIDS4U but haven't got time to install.

[kelaihoyin]

Using Halogen bulbs.

 

I bought a set of HID from HIDS4U but haven't got time to install.

 

Hmm correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think Halogen bulbs have CANBUS spec? Thought is only for HID and LEDs. The OSRAM Cool Blue Intense I got only for $28 in total

[Frogman]

Hmm correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think Halogen bulbs have CANBUS spec? Thought is only for HID and LEDs. The OSRAM Cool Blue Intense I got only for $28 in total

I read also Canbus for HIDs and LEDs..So ur cool blue intense no error msg?

[kelaihoyin]

I read also Canbus for HIDs and LEDs..So ur cool blue intense no error msg?

 

Yup perfectly fine for me. Not as white as I would have like but at least is just within legal colour temperature limits

[Teo2000]

High speed I'm referring to the depends on the engine capacity. A 1.0T and 1.4T, the rpm are different due to gear ratio. Let say running 180km/h is fine with 1.4T but it is very stressful to 1.0T engine and have to work harder. After all engine capacity play a part in a durable turbo setup if you intend to run at constant high speed. There is no replacement for displacement...

 

I think you are right.

 

I just came back from my 2nd trip up north: SG-Melaka-Putrajaya-Melaka-SG. Around 760 km traveled.

 

Yes, the 1,4 Turbo on the "6" speed at 160km/h is only 3000 RPM. I cannot comment on the 1.0T, 5 speed Easytronic.

 

When I step on it to accelerate. it will downshift and the RPM at most will reach 4500 max and will upshift again.

 

Since we don't have the 6 speed manual transmission here where you can rev the engine, it is unlikely that the turbo will overheat.

 

I find it very difficult to exceed 180 km/h on NSH nowadays, due to the increase in traffic volume- If I do exceed 200 km/h, it will at most be less than 10 seconds and I have to ease off the accelerator. Not much chance to reach that speed often anymore.

 

When we "chiong", we must also do it safely.....Not be reckless...At that speed, one little mistake and you know the consequences.

 

Therefore, very hard to go on constant high speed that will damage your turbo.

 

[7hm]

I think you are right.

 

I just came back from my 2nd trip up north: SG-Melaka-Putrajaya-Melaka-SG. Around 760 km traveled.

 

Yes, the 1,4 Turbo on the "6" speed at 160km/h is only 3000 RPM. I cannot comment on the 1.0T, 5 speed Easytronic.

 

When I step on it to accelerate. it will downshift and the RPM at most will reach 4500 max and will upshift again.

 

Since we don't have the 6 speed manual transmission here where you can rev the engine, it is unlikely that the turbo will overheat.

 

I find it very difficult to exceed 180 km/h on NSH nowadays, due to the increase in traffic volume- If I do exceed 200 km/h, it will at most be less than 10 seconds and I have to ease off the accelerator. Not much chance to reach that speed often anymore.

 

When we "chiong", we must also do it safely.....Not be reckless...At that speed, one little mistake and you know the consequences.

 

Therefore, very hard to go on constant high speed that will damage your turbo.

 

 

 

Can high rev that way if you put it in manual mode.

[RCTP]

Saw this in Melaka!

 

[kelaihoyin]

I have just noticed that there is a mechanical knocking sound coming from the driver side front suspension when turning a hard left at speeds of around 20km/h or higher. The same knocking sound when going a hump at a faster speed. Gonna ring AG up tomorrow to book a slot to check. 

 

Anyone had this issue as well? Seems from UK it is the anti roll bar problem. 

[Johnny86]

I have just noticed that there is a mechanical knocking sound coming from the driver side front suspension when turning a hard left at speeds of around 20km/h or higher. The same knocking sound when going a hump at a faster speed. Gonna ring AG up tomorrow to book a slot to check.

 

Anyone had this issue as well? Seems from UK it is the anti roll bar problem.

Quite a few owners got this. I believe if driven long enough this problem will come up

 

sent mine in, tried to fix the anti roll bar side but didn't work. Came back better but temporarily only. Still waiting for steering rack change.

Edited August 6, 2017 by Johnny86