2016 Audi A4 sedan & avant

[Mkl22]

This sounds more like it than the weight of more air la...hahahaha...

 

In case some of you may want to know, I've been checking out the actual weights of the Audi OE 18" rims.  Some of the tire shops I have visited over past weeks that have these rims were very obliging to provide me with the weights. Only one had refused to weigh the rims, citing 'unbelievable reason':(

 

Generally, the original 18" Audi rims measure between 12.5kg and 14.2kg each, w/o tire. The variation in weight should depend on the rim design I guess. I managed to secure a relatively new set of Audi 18" wheels (rim+tire) taken from an A5 (as informed by the shop owner). Each wheel weighed about 23kg. So doing a little calculation, I guess the weight distribution between the rim and tire should be 12kg(rim)/11kg(tire).

 

I'll try to post pictures here if I can. 

 

check tirerack. most 18in tires are 25-26lbs.

[Machunk28]

You can't really say that. The weights of tires also differ from brands to brands, depending on the compound used. But I'm not surprised your forged 18" rim may just weigh as such. Some of the 18" OZ rims recommended to me by the shop weight just under 10kg, maybe between 8kg & 9kg, and they are not even forged. 

 

It's definitely good that your rims are light. It also has to be tough.

 

Enjoy your ride:)

I am quite confident on these rims. Thank u and do enjoy yr ride too.

[X5actor]

This sounds more like it than the weight of more air la...hahahaha...

 

In case some of you may want to know, I've been checking out the actual weights of the Audi OE 18" rims. Some of the tire shops I have visited over past weeks that have these rims were very obliging to provide me with the weights. Only one had refused to weigh the rims, citing 'unbelievable reason':(

 

Generally, the original 18" Audi rims measure between 12.5kg and 14.2kg each, w/o tire. The variation in weight should depend on the rim design I guess. I managed to secure a relatively new set of Audi 18" wheels (rim+tire) taken from an A5 (as informed by the shop owner). Each wheel weighed about 23kg. So doing a little calculation, I guess the weight distribution between the rim and tire should be 12kg(rim)/11kg(tire).

 

I'll try to post pictures here if I can.

Two of the 18” Audi rims I managed to weigh...

Edited April 23, 2018 by X5actor

[X5actor]

This is another design that weighs 12.5kg (w/o tire) but I didn’t get to take picture when it was on the weighing scale...

Edited April 23, 2018 by X5actor

[Simchuan86]

16" Audi stock should be around 18.9kg with tyres.

 

Having a 18" forged went down to 16.4kg with tyres.

The 16in audi stock rims in the picture is not the forged 16in rims for the A4.

The rims in the picture is from the A3 sedan.

[Machunk28]

The 16in audi stock rims in the picture is not the forged 16in rims for the A4.

The rims in the picture is from the A3 sedan.

Is the A4 stock 16" forged? 

[Bat2k]

Oh, and I just discovered a couple of things which I think I should highlight it for potential buyers. Firstly, during purchase, my SE told me my insurance comes with $600 excess. But when I received the insurance Cover Note upon collection, it is actually $1,600 excess. The SE later clarified the $600 excess was for the A3, not A4:(. She said she made a mistake.

 

Secondly, I was told the A4 model is a B9 model. But when I was cleaning the car yesterday, I saw a sticker pasted inside the car, that states âTyp B8/8Wâ. Does it mean the car is actually a B8 model? Can anyone enlighten me on this?

 

Thanks.

Hi, just found this forum. I picked my A4 last week.

Regarding the excess, my SE said that the company will reduce it by 1k is you have a UTR (AIGs doc says $1070).

[Bat2k]

After going thruâ my sales contract, itâs not typo. Itâs indeed stated âForged aluminum alloy wheels, 17J X 16, 5-arm design with 205/60 R16 tyresâ.

 

I donât quite remember. But I was told the steering adapts to the speed that the driver is going. There are some settings to configure how you want the steering to feel. Itâs called âElectromechanical power steeringâ.

Let me try to get a snapshot up...

 

BB35E460-4C86-416F-A09F-BBCA2F5F9A1F.jpeg

 

Is anyone collecting their new A3/A4 this week or next? Do verify and share if you can.

I have the same thing in my sales agreement.

Since this is in a legal document, I will assume they are.

[Bat2k]

Hi again, Spent some time going through the forum. Now about my purchase.

Had an open mind when I started looking - I wanted space, pref 7 seater option at lower cost, and wife wanted brand. :)

So we checked all Jap/Kor SUVs, and Merc, BMW and Audi.

The SUVs fitting my wants were Mitsubishi Outlander and Honda CRV. Wife put her foot down on the Honda, and I ruled Outlander out since it is old (needs a small turbo charged engine to interest me).

BMW had the air show cars on discount at ~152-158k. 3 series looked outdated though, & X1 seemed small. That left Grand Tourer which was 7 seater and branded. But wife didn’t want a people carrier, and it was not fun to drive.

So we were left with C180 and A4. Frankly, I was seduced by the torque and VC, and that it was much cheaper. To both me and wife, the two seemed comparable in every way other than brand and cost. So I (and A4) won.

Paid 155k + 3.1k insurance + $600 for UTR (wife wanted it).

Damn the loan is so expensive - effective rate of ~4.5% (they try to fool customers into thinking its 2.5%). Got the amount reduced to 60k. Added free 5y/90k servicing.

Colour dark grey.

Very happy with purchase till now.

Edited April 25, 2018 by Bat2k

[X5actor]

Hi, just found this forum. I picked my A4 last week.

Regarding the excess, my SE said that the company will reduce it by 1k is you have a UTR (AIGs doc says $1070).

How is having the UTR relevant to the insurance premium? Means the UTR is not covered in the insurance?

[X5actor]

Hi again, Spent some time going through the forum. Now about my purchase.

Had an open mind when I started looking - I wanted space, pref 7 seater option at lower cost, and wife wanted brand. :)

So we checked all Jap/Kor SUVs, and Merc, BMW and Audi.

The SUVs fitting my wants were Mitsubishi Outlander and Honda CRV. Wife put her foot down on the Honda, and I ruled Outlander out since it is old (needs a small turbo charged engine to interest me).

BMW had the air show cars on discount at ~152-158k. 3 series looked outdated though, & X1 seemed small. That left Grand Tourer which was 7 seater and branded. But wife didn’t want a people carrier, and it was not fun to drive.

So we were left with C180 and A4. Frankly, I was seduced by the torque and VC, and that it was much cheaper. To both me and wife, the two seemed comparable in every way other than brand and cost. So I (and A4) won.

Paid 155k + 3.1k insurance + $600 for UTR (wife wanted it).

Damn the loan is so expensive - effective rate of ~4.5% (they try to fool customers into thinking its 2.5%). Got the amount reduced to 60k. Added free 5y/90k servicing.

Colour dark grey.

Very happy with purchase till now.

Wow! Thanks for sharing. Went thru’ nearly similar process in terms of making choices for my new car. But how did you derive on the 4.5% per annum loan interest rate? I was sure mine was 2.48% per annum and the monthly instalment tallied.

 

So how long is your warranty period? When collecting new car?

Edited April 25, 2018 by X5actor

[Cookcpu]

The trunk opening is still a hit and miss, sometime one kick and it open and other times a few kick and it still does not open. 

 

Today, suddenly the car cannot detect the car key remote signal even though I was sitting in the car with the key in my side pocket. I have to take out the key before the car can start.

 

The navigation system of the MMI is not very friendly unless you have store all the previous GPS number for that destination. When I try to input a new GPS location, I find it hard to type or using the speller as one wrong move, its goes back to the start and all previous typing being erase.

[X5actor]

The trunk opening is still a hit and miss, sometime one kick and it open and other times a few kick and it still does not open. 

 

Today, suddenly the car cannot detect the car key remote signal even though I was sitting in the car with the key in my side pocket. I have to take out the key before the car can start.

 

The navigation system of the MMI is not very friendly unless you have store all the previous GPS number for that destination. When I try to input a new GPS location, I find it hard to type or using the speller as one wrong move, its goes back to the start and all previous typing being erase.

Aiyo...why like that:(

 

I haven't yet explored too deeply into the system except for the fundamental stuff. Don't really like the idea of having to sit in the car with the engine, air-con and DRL on for hours. The most irritating I find is the perpetually switched-on DRL

[Midorima]

Wow! Thanks for sharing. Went thru’ nearly similar process in terms of making choices for my new car. But how did you derive on the 4.5% per annum loan interest rate? I was sure mine was 2.48% per annum and the monthly instalment tallied.

 

So how long is your warranty period? When collecting new car?

 

For car loans they don't calculate interest on reducing balance of principal year on year. So if loan is 100k at 2.5% interest, it is 2,500 x 7 years. So total will be 117,500 divided by 84 months which brings you your monthly instalment.

 

However, for loans such as housing loan, they calculate interest based on outstanding principal remaining which will reduce year-on-year. So actually your interest per year should reduce, instead of 2,500 per year as above. Therefore, car loans effective interest rate is higher which could be the 4.5% you see above.

 

It is the same across all car loans so its industry practice.

Edited April 26, 2018 by Midorima

[Cookcpu]

Aiyo...why like that:(

 

I haven't yet explored too deeply into the system except for the fundamental stuff. Don't really like the idea of having to sit in the car with the engine, air-con and DRL on for hours. The most irritating I find is the perpetually switched-on DRL

You don't need to start the engine. Just do not press the brake and press start, the engine will not turn on, only the electrical system is turn on.

 

I turn off the head light and leave the DRL alone. (since it cannot be turn off). Wind down all the windows and start to play around with the button/menu etc.

[Soya]

Hi, just found this forum. I picked my A4 last week.

Regarding the excess, my SE said that the company will reduce it by 1k is you have a UTR (AIGs doc says $1070).

Dun be too happy hor. The T&C probably includes surrendering the video footage to the insurer in the event of a claim. They may pickup something u missed (like speeding or tailgating) n deny a claim becoz u we are deemed to be driving ‘dangerously’......

[X5actor]

You don't need to start the engine. Just do not press the brake and press start, the engine will not turn on, only the electrical system is turn on.

 

I turn off the head light and leave the DRL alone. (since it cannot be turn off). Wind down all the windows and start to play around with the button/menu etc.

..hahaha.. this I know, but mostly being in a basement car-park w/o air-con very stuffy after a short while:(

Dun be too happy hor. The T&C probably includes surrendering the video footage to the insurer in the event of a claim. They may pickup something u missed (like speeding or tailgating) n deny a claim becoz u we are deemed to be driving ‘dangerously’......

O'dear ... can they insist for that?? So means, mine with higher excess the UTR isn't covered by insurance, and need not submit to them anything if demanded to? I sotong liao...

For car loans they don't calculate interest on reducing balance of principal year on year. So if loan is 100k at 2.5% interest, it is 2,500 x 7 years. So total will be 117,500 divided by 84 months which brings you your monthly instalment.

 

However, for loans such as housing loan, they calculate interest based on outstanding principal remaining which will reduce year-on-year. So actually your interest per year should reduce, instead of 2,500 per year as above. Therefore, car loans effective interest rate is higher which could be the 4.5% you see above.

 

It is the same across all car loans so its industry practice.

I see ... phew, u scared me

[Soya]

..hahaha.. this I know, but mostly being in a basement car-park w/o air-con very stuffy after a short while:(

 

O'dear ... can they insist for that?? So means, mine with higher excess the UTR isn't covered by insurance, and need not submit to them anything if demanded to? I sotong liao...

 

I see ... phew, u scared me

Guess if one wants to enjoy a reduced excess, or u accepted the policy based on the known fact that u hv a cam installed in exchange for some policy benefit, they would hv a right to ask. U tink insurers give discount to benefit the insured or to benefit them?...LOL