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2015 Forester 2.0


subarudreamer
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  On 1/31/2018 at 4:53 AM, cmdsea said:

So... at 2 years and 2 weeks old and after 25k Km's in my FNA, my dashboard gave me a wild light show when I tried to start the engine after work yesterday, but no cranking... managed to get a jumpstart from my friendly office neighbour and drove straight down to Autobacs and got a new battery for $179 + $5 fitting fee. Yuasa with 18 month warranty and all is good again...

 

Just curious what sort of lifespan people are getting form their stock batteries when they collect the car new from MI and how much they are paying for replacements... thanks.!

I paid $130 for Amaron 60Ah battery.

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  On 1/30/2018 at 5:49 AM, andrewyewkc said:

Agree. If you want to have parking mode a voltage cut-off is not a good solution as you never know when your recording will be cut-off. I remember almost everyday my camera is already dead in the morning.

 

but there are drivers who would just want the cheapest solution and yet have a parking mode, so a PowerMagic type of voltage cut-off controller is still cheaper to implement than a battery solution.

and some may just want it to cover the higher risk parking outside for short trips compared to overnight parking at home.

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  On 2/1/2018 at 2:42 PM, Sarion said:

but there are drivers who would just want the cheapest solution and yet have a parking mode, so a PowerMagic type of voltage cut-off controller is still cheaper to implement than a battery solution.

and some may just want it to cover the higher risk parking outside for short trips compared to overnight parking at home.

Not worth it
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  On 1/24/2018 at 2:31 AM, Scoobyfxt said:

If its the 2.0 base outlander and fna, i feel that overall space in the former should still be better. E.g. the former's transmission tunnel feels lower and while the 3rd row is often quite useless, when folded its practical value is enhanced. Wheelbase is also a tad longer in outlander. Power diff is likely gonna be negligible. Outlander engine sounds rough and struggles to get to speed, unlike fna which is very smooth. Handling should be better in fna due to awd and less metal bulk. Fc wise, likely fna more thirsty due to awd and heavier weight. Subaru has generally improved much over the years but i dun feel its the case for mitsu. At 10k cheaper, fna presents a worthy case for itself, one that has awd and niceties like electric seats and big sunroof.

 

Therefore Mitsubishi is dead in the past ten years.

Was revived and born to build cheap nasty cars that let some western country give it a wide berth.

Some country in the northern hemisphere in the americas that speak English have insurers that refuses to insure them,as bad as Chinese cars in Singapore

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  On 2/1/2018 at 4:38 PM, Brass said:

Therefore Mitsubishi is dead in the past ten years.

Was revived and born to build cheap nasty cars that let some western country give it a wide berth.

Some country in the northern hemisphere in the americas that speak English have insurers that refuses to insure them,as bad as Chinese cars in Singapore

The Lancer 1.6L is almost the same engine they used in the 90s Lancer.

Just retuned and retuned to mid stricter emission requirements.

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  On 1/29/2018 at 11:33 AM, richard_crl032 said:

Hi Bros,

 

Believe some bros may know that I had been trying to mod kick sensor into our stock forester fxt's electric tailgate but failed due to the "intelligence" of some cars like our forester fxt, volvo etc. where the typical delayed timing due to capacitance of kick sensor's signal which equate to holding down for manual unlock but without auto opening of electrical gate.

 

There is some solution in the web that resort to using of optical sensor which I do not not preferred since restrictive in only specifically aimed location(s) and reliability concern due to exposure to dirt etc. and they are also 2-3 more expensive.

Glad to share with bros here that without using too expensive electronics, I worked with AWS with details below and managed to worked out working kick sensor for my forester fxt:

 

http://www.sgcarmart.com/directory/merchant.php?MID=14934

 

 

Enjoy and cheers,

 

Richard

 

Not much interest in this mod ??  Please let me know if any details needed.

 

Cheers,

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  On 2/2/2018 at 12:07 AM, Tohto said:

The Lancer 1.6L is almost the same engine they used in the 90s Lancer.

Just retuned and retuned to mid stricter emission requirements.

Now it cannot be sold here cos the ves scheme
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  On 2/1/2018 at 4:38 PM, Brass said:

Therefore Mitsubishi is dead in the past ten years.

Was revived and born to build cheap nasty cars that let some western country give it a wide berth.

Some country in the northern hemisphere in the americas that speak English have insurers that refuses to insure them,as bad as Chinese cars in Singapore

My first car was a mit. It was unsafe to drive, terrible brakes and soft like hell in a collision. After 2 years the transmission stopped working. I would never touch this brand again. Having said that, my friend, an experienced driver, has good experience with a second-hand manual transmission mit. I suppose I could drive one now that I am more seasoned but why bother when I can get better and properly engineered cars. Price is the only attraction.

  On 2/1/2018 at 2:42 PM, Sarion said:

but there are drivers who would just want the cheapest solution and yet have a parking mode, so a PowerMagic type of voltage cut-off controller is still cheaper to implement than a battery solution.

and some may just want it to cover the higher risk parking outside for short trips compared to overnight parking at home.

I know, I was one of them. One day my car could not start, not entirely due to the camera, but partly.

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  On 2/1/2018 at 7:57 AM, Xefera said:

Notice that camera shutdown immediately once engine is off. Guess power magic is dead

 

Going to install Cellink Neo. Anyone has good lobang? More concern with workmanship.

Looking for one also
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  On 2/2/2018 at 11:36 AM, Immotive said:

Looking for one also

most authorized dealers should be $338? that's the price i got quote for Chuan Sing and WowGadgets

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  On 1/31/2018 at 4:17 AM, Speedz76 said:

Ive changed out my power magic pro after 1 month, after reading about the horror stories

 

On celllink b6 now no issues, the battery pack charges from car batt only when car is running, and the batt pack will power the blackvue cam whem car batt is off

Hi Speedz,

 

Hope dun mind but battery pack get charged by alternator and not by car battery.

 

In fact, all electronics including aircon compressor, headunit, powered steering etc. get powered by alternator when engine is running and our battery is primarily to start engine and secondarily to maintain car electronics when engine is off e.g. car computer, alarm, sensors etc.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited by richard_crl032
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  On 2/3/2018 at 1:46 PM, richard_crl032 said:

Hi Speedz,

 

Hope dun mind but battery pack get charged by alternator and not by car battery.

 

In fact, all electronics including aircon compressor, headunit, powered steering etc. get powered by alternator when engine is running and our battery is primarily to start engine and secondarily to maintain car electronics when engine is off e.g. car computer, alarm, sensors etc.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Hi richard

 

I do believe you are correct! Pardon me but im pretty poor in my physics, and i do recall the electronics powered by alternator

 

However, for my case, my cellinl b6 is really powered by the car battery

 

Accoding to the installer(audio shop) that did my b6, to put it in layman terms, this b6 is like a beast, that draws current strongly for charging when the car is moving. The concern is that the wiring in the fuse box may melt long term , as b6 sucks in more current than the exisiting electrical wiring is meant for. Same theory for powerful Ice systems that consumes current and one needs to make sure thats powered correctly woth the correct wiring, if not, batt flat, wiring melts etc

 

In 99% of b6 installed, the batt pack will be connected to the fuse box (at the driver side) for charging. Straightforward case,and im pretty sure it will work just fine as well

 

For mine, they layered another wire to run it through on the engine bay side, directly connecting to the battery :).

 

As i was given a choice between the 2 methods of connecting, i chose the 2nd one as the labour is slightly more only

 

That said, i do believe the conventional way of connecting would do just fine as well. Just matter of preference. The installer seems honest and logical enugh, as the diff in labour is not much, so thats the story

 

Cheers

Edited by Speedz76
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  On 2/2/2018 at 1:38 PM, Sarion said:

most authorized dealers should be $338? that's the price i got quote for Chuan Sing and WowGadgets

Including installation?
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  On 2/4/2018 at 4:07 AM, Speedz76 said:

Hi richard

 

I do believe you are correct! Pardon me but im pretty poor in my physics, and i do recall the electronics powered by alternator

 

However, for my case, my cellinl b6 is really powered by the car battery

 

Accoding to the installer(audio shop) that did my b6, to put it in layman terms, this b6 is like a beast, that draws current strongly for charging when the car is moving. The concern is that the wiring in the fuse box may melt long term , as b6 sucks in more current than the exisiting electrical wiring is meant for. Same theory for powerful Ice systems that consumes current and one needs to make sure thats powered correctly woth the correct wiring, if not, batt flat, wiring melts etc

 

In 99% of b6 installed, the batt pack will be connected to the fuse box (at the driver side) for charging. Straightforward case,and im pretty sure it will work just fine as well

 

For mine, they layered another wire to run it through on the engine bay side, directly connecting to the battery :).

 

As i was given a choice between the 2 methods of connecting, i chose the 2nd one as the labour is slightly more only

 

That said, i do believe the conventional way of connecting would do just fine as well. Just matter of preference. The installer seems honest and logical enugh, as the diff in labour is not much, so thats the story

 

Cheers

“For mine, they layered another wire to run it through on the engine bay side, directly connecting to the battery :).”

 

Isn’t this short circuiting the original one going via the fuse box ?

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  On 2/4/2018 at 4:07 AM, Speedz76 said:

Hi richard

 

I do believe you are correct! Pardon me but im pretty poor in my physics, and i do recall the electronics powered by alternator

 

However, for my case, my cellinl b6 is really powered by the car battery

 

Accoding to the installer(audio shop) that did my b6, to put it in layman terms, this b6 is like a beast, that draws current strongly for charging when the car is moving. The concern is that the wiring in the fuse box may melt long term , as b6 sucks in more current than the exisiting electrical wiring is meant for. Same theory for powerful Ice systems that consumes current and one needs to make sure thats powered correctly woth the correct wiring, if not, batt flat, wiring melts etc

 

In 99% of b6 installed, the batt pack will be connected to the fuse box (at the driver side) for charging. Straightforward case,and im pretty sure it will work just fine as well

 

For mine, they layered another wire to run it through on the engine bay side, directly connecting to the battery :).

 

As i was given a choice between the 2 methods of connecting, i chose the 2nd one as the labour is slightly more only

 

That said, i do believe the conventional way of connecting would do just fine as well. Just matter of preference. The installer seems honest and logical enugh, as the diff in labour is not much, so thats the story

 

Cheers

Hi Speedz,

 

No worry cos I am Physics Hons graduate some 30 yrs ago but still get confused cos theory and application differs.

 

I have the blackvue B6 in my qashqai and iRoad power plus in my forester but cannot really understand connecting to battery to charge as TowTan queried.

 

Nevertheless, your installer should know what he is doing.

 

Cheers.

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  On 2/4/2018 at 5:46 AM, Towtan said:

âFor mine, they layered another wire to run it through on the engine bay side, directly connecting to the battery :).â

 

Isnât this short circuiting the original one going via the fuse box ?

Its a new standalone wiring independent of the fusebox. The wiring ran from inside the cabin, to along the engine bay on the outside of the cabin, with a new direct connection to the battery..
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  On 2/4/2018 at 5:46 AM, Towtan said:

âFor mine, they layered another wire to run it through on the engine bay side, directly connecting to the battery :).â

 

Isnât this short circuiting the original one going via the fuse box ?

Hi Towtan,

 

Think Speedz means his installer did not connect via fuse box at all and just connect to the car battery which means both car and his B6 batteries in parallel are charged by the alternator when engine is running .. that is fine.

 

However when the engine is off, I am not sure how the car battery is disconnected from his B6 which is also in parallel to the dvr cam to keep it powered up for parked recording .. probably by just a simple relay which will also work in addition to an extra fuse.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited by richard_crl032
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  On 2/4/2018 at 6:23 AM, richard_crl032 said:

Hi Towtan,

 

Think Speedz means his installer did not connect via fuse box at all and just connect to the car battery which means both car and his B6 batteries in parallel are charged by the alternator when engine is running .. that is fine.

 

However when the engine is off, I am not sure how the car battery is disconnected from his B6 which is also in parallel to the dvr cam to keep it powered up for parked recording .. probably by just a simple relay which will also work in addition to an extra fuse.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Spot on richard! Yes, its something like what you said. There is an additional relay ;)
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