2015 Forester 2.0

[OnceInALifeTime]

20 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Dear All,

May I check any bro/sis experience squeaks sound from the front suspension when going over humps (Sometime have, sometime don't). Could it be suspension? or engine mounting?

Car is 2016 Aug FNA. Milage 73000KM. Ask workshop they said have to drop car for a day to check.

Thank you in advance.

Did you go through a very big hump and the vehicle dipped more than usual?

Usually, no major issue. Until you have the squeak sound every time you go over humps.

The sound could be from possibly; shocks, lower arms (bushing), endlinks, sway bar bushings (usually the internal diameter of the bushing is smaller than the external diameter of the swaybar. When the waxy coating of the bushing is gone, it will be rubber against the swaybar)

 

[Stratovarius]

21 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Dear All,

May I check any bro/sis experience squeaks sound from the front suspension when going over humps (Sometime have, sometime don't). Could it be suspension? or engine mounting?

Car is 2016 Aug FNA. Milage 73000KM. Ask workshop they said have to drop car for a day to check.

Thank you in advance.

U have any aftermarket arb installed? Mine squeaks everytime I go over hump at slow speed. I think is from the arb. Got a few workshops to check but all tell me nothing's wrong.

[Stratovarius]

45 minutes ago, thefalcon said:

Dear Stratovarius,
I have not install any after market ARB also le. 😓

Oh. Then just get a mechanic to check. If bushing and joints are okay then just ignore it or get them to spray some wd40, the sound should go off temporary.

[Tohto]

2 hours ago, Stratovarius said:

U have any aftermarket arb installed? Mine squeaks everytime I go over hump at slow speed. I think is from the arb. Got a few workshops to check but all tell me nothing's wrong.

Squeaks sound might be from all the door rubber seal. After a few years the rubber dry up it will make all the noise. 

Mine one I apply Sonax rubber lubricant,  squeaks sound all gone.

[Shibadog]

5 hours ago, Stratovarius said:

U have any aftermarket arb installed? Mine squeaks everytime I go over hump at slow speed. I think is from the arb. Got a few workshops to check but all tell me nothing's wrong.

try greasing the ARB bushings.

[Shibadog]

6 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Dear OnceInALifeTime,

I had replaced both side front bushing( total 4 pcs, I think it should be Lower arm--Picture below) in Mar2020.

After close monitoring today, I notice in the morning it will not make any sound. The sound only come around afternoon. When there is sound , even small hump also it make sound.

this is the front lower control arm. Yes the bushings are known to spoil n crack, causing some noise. Since you have already changed in March, can check if the bolts are tight.

Also check the other parts of the front as mentioned by OnceInALifeTime

[Shibadog]

56 minutes ago, thefalcon said:

I think these is the part that wear off.

 

Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing (LEFT)

Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing (RIGHT)

these bushings can be easily replaced, either with original rubber ones or aftermarket PU (will last longer but may need periodic greasing)

 

[richard_crl032]

Hi Shutter,

That jdm high bhp one should be limited TS/STi model only available in Japan and only for preFL one.

2nd release of 300 units of limited TS/STi model to Australia in FL version are already without this high bhp.

Cheers.

Richard

[richard_crl032]

On 10/9/2020 at 10:58 PM, thefalcon said:

Ah, thanks for the idea, I will use some WD40 and see

 

Hi falcon,

Avoid wd40 meant for metal and I tested it at PSB before to knownit contains corrosive ingredients to free rusyy but not good in longer term cos more corrosion in longer term.

Think better ti use mentioned sonax rubber lubricant or any silicon base oil spray e.g. 3M.

I have some experience on seat vinyl rubbing plastic parts, door seals and especially if you have redwind door sealing which make irritating tick tick noise when dried within the door seals.

Cheers.

Richard

[richard_crl032]

On 10/6/2020 at 1:50 PM, shutterbox said:

Does that mean Sg's SJG can be "tuned back" to JDM factory specs again easily while keeping the same reliability? 

Hi shutter,

I err on the side of being cautious ...

Nobody knows for sure if you can "keep" same reliability if you upped the torque and bhp while I believe it is reasonable it can only get worst if you make use these high torque and bhp.

Already even the high torque cvt gb is known to fail for sepang seekers and some even ditched the fxt for the wrx and if you dun use it, why bother in the 1st place with risk in the hands of some tuners that you do not know personally ?

For non sepang bros, it may be good for fuel efficiency since most already using ron98 available in singapore but with ron95 needed/recommended unlike say tuned to ron90+, +ron3 wun make big difference.

For the prefl jdm ts/STi fxt, the cost of car ownership in the land of rising sun is low in comparison and they scrap car early unlike our need to keep for 10 yrs.

Btw, overhaul of cvt can be up to sgd6k or you can import a complete one at 9k 😬.

As one bro mentioned, torque for primarily driveability and then bhp for top speed .. you really need to go faster than the 210kmhr for our "detuned" 240bhp fxt ??

Cheers.

Richard

[Tohto]

2 hours ago, richard_crl032 said:

Hi shutter,

I err on the side of being cautious ...

Nobody knows for sure if you can "keep" same reliability if you upped the torque and bhp while I believe it is reasonable it can only get worst if you make use these high torque and bhp.

Already even the high torque cvt gb is known to fail for sepang seekers and some even ditched the fxt for the wrx and if you dun use it, why bother in the 1st place with risk in the hands of some tuners that you do not know personally ?

For non sepang bros, it may be good for fuel efficiency since most already using ron98 available in singapore but with ron95 needed/recommended unlike say tuned to ron90+, +ron3 wun make big difference.

For the prefl jdm ts/STi fxt, the cost of car ownership in the land of rising sun is low in comparison and they scrap car early unlike our need to keep for 10 yrs.

Btw, overhaul of cvt can be up to sgd6k or you can import a complete one at 9k 😬.

As one bro mentioned, torque for primarily driveability and then bhp for top speed .. you really need to go faster than the 210kmhr for our "detuned" 240bhp fxt ??

Cheers.

Richard

Tuned does not mean always need to cheong red line or high speed.

Tuned can improve the low end torque. Our FXT max torque start at 2.4k rpm which is consider very high for modern 2.0L turbo engine. Look at Merc or BMW, their 2.0L turbo max torque are all obtain at low 1k rpm.

My FXT is tuned, my max torque after tuned obtain is less than 2k rpm. Definitely better drive than default. 

Car tuned at just after 10k mileage, currently 4.5yrs. 132k km. Still driving very smooth and strong. I expecting to continue drive this car till at least 8 to 9 yrs.

BTW I only used 5W30 engine oil. As our owner manual suggest which I always prefer thinner oil.

I know you only believe  in 5W40.

Edited October 11, 2020 by Tohto

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 10/9/2020 at 10:58 PM, thefalcon said:

Ah, thanks for the idea, I will use some WD40 and see

 

I will not recommend WD40 on rubber material.

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 10/10/2020 at 2:09 AM, Shibadog said:

try greasing the ARB bushings.

I think not need to grease. Just change the ARB bushings. Doesn't cost much.

Anyway to grease it, will still need to remove from the ARB.

Expecially the original ones, there is a thin wax coating on surface.

[Stratovarius]

17 minutes ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

I think not need to grease. Just change the ARB bushings. Doesn't cost much.

Anyway to grease it, will still need to remove from the ARB.

Expecially the original ones, there is a thin wax coating on surface.

I went back to the workshop and told them to reapply the grease. Yes they need to take out the arb. Took around 1 hour. They told me the grease is special kind and can last around 2 years so it means I need to go back every 2 years? Lol. Kinda regret to change arb. 

[OnceInALifeTime]

4 hours ago, Tohto said:

Tuned does not mean always need to cheong red line or high speed.

Tuned can improve the low end torque. Our FXT max torque start at 2.4k rpm which is consider very high for modern 2.0L turbo engine. Look at Merc or BMW, their 2.0L turbo max torque are all obtain at low 1k rpm.

My FXT is tuned, my max torque after tuned obtain is less than 2k rpm. Definitely better drive than default. 

Car tuned at just after 10k mileage, currently 4.5yrs. 132k km. Still driving very smooth and strong. I expecting to continue drive this car till at least 8 to 9 yrs.

BTW I only used 5W30 engine oil. As our owner manual suggest which I always prefer thinner oil.

I know you only believe  in 5W40.

Frankly, it really does not make sense to use 5W40 engine oil. When it is made to use 5W-30 engine oil. Else, why not use 5w-50 or 10w-60 oil? (Maybe in 24 Hours of Le Mans, where the engine is not stopped and going on and on at high engine speed all the time.)

SJG coupled with CVT, while driving on Singapore Roads, engine speed usually in range of 1.5k to 2.5k rpm. It is relatively low speed. Even racing down the North South Highway maybe around 3k to 4k rpm.

If the claim to use 5W-40 engine oil will protect engine better, then it is totally illogical and senseless. As doesn't mean a 5W40 oil have better characteristics than 5W-30 oil.

Even if both have similar standards such as ACEA C3 or C4 ( Why ACEA C3 or C4 standards? As they need to fulfil the minimum H. T. H. S. of 3.5mPa.s) Where else, achieving API SN oils can also either achieve ACEA C2 or C3 standards too.), should use only 5W-30. As to use 5W-40 it is only increasing drag on the engine internals, the engine oil will take longer time to reach necessary lubricating parts than 5W-30 oil and increase wear and tear instead.

Rather, to better protect engine, change engine oil regularly and frequently with the appropriate standards and rating. Not about thinner or thicker engine oil.

 

Edited October 11, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime
Error Correction

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 10/9/2020 at 7:36 PM, thefalcon said:

Dear OnceInALifeTime,

I had replaced both side front bushing( total 4 pcs, I think it should be Lower arm--Picture below) in Mar2020.

After close monitoring today, I notice in the morning it will not make any sound. The sound only come around afternoon. When there is sound , even small hump also it make sound.

I will recommend you to just change your sway bar bushings.

Front and rear. All 4. Very cheap and not expensive at all.

If sound is from front only, you can just change 2 front ones.

[OnceInALifeTime]

19 minutes ago, Stratovarius said:

I went back to the workshop and told them to reapply the grease. Yes they need to take out the arb. Took around 1 hour. They told me the grease is special kind and can last around 2 years so it means I need to go back every 2 years? Lol. Kinda regret to change arb. 

Do not regret changing ARB. You get the drive feel and fun that you wanted. It is just the maintenance that will come with it. It's just like if driving a Toyota Corolla and a Subaru Forester XT. The corolla will have lesser maintenance than SJG. But the SJG is more fun to drive.

When something is modified or change, the force on the driving dynamics just shifted to other parts or components.

It is just like after market rims. If changed to slightly bigger or smaller or different offset. Issues might not appear immediately, but only sometime later. For e.g. wheel hub bearing noisy or wear and tear faster.

At the same time, would have to see if the grease will be washed off? Maybe by rain, melted by heat radiating from the engine? Then it will be less than 2 years. But when seldom take hard corners or sudden switch of directions like in S- curve, might not need to change ARB at all. Eventually; modifying and changing too many after market stuffs that are un-neccessary, reinventing the wheel or trying to better the engineering team in Subaru... Maintenance will become a hassle and Karma will come!

haha! And we can't run from it. Until it has become overwhelmed by the issues, we get fustrated. We will start to think about changing new cars....

 

Edited October 11, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime
Addition

[richard_crl032]

6 hours ago, Tohto said:

Tuned does not mean always need to cheong red line or high speed.

Tuned can improve the low end torque. Our FXT max torque start at 2.4k rpm which is consider very high for modern 2.0L turbo engine. Look at Merc or BMW, their 2.0L turbo max torque are all obtain at low 1k rpm.

My FXT is tuned, my max torque after tuned obtain is less than 2k rpm. Definitely better drive than default. 

Car tuned at just after 10k mileage, currently 4.5yrs. 132k km. Still driving very smooth and strong. I expecting to continue drive this car till at least 8 to 9 yrs.

BTW I only used 5W30 engine oil. As our owner manual suggest which I always prefer thinner oil.

I know you only believe  in 5W40.

Hi Tohto,

No doubt better driveability with max torque at lower rpm .. but also no doubt more stress mechanically and perhaps even reliability is fine but for sure not more so than per stock as designed.

Indeed I err on being cautious, including using also per spec thicker ?W/40 for max protection even at expense of better FC. Singapore is hot tropical and ?W/40 is probably ?W/35 in comparison to cooler temperature or 4 seasons country ... ?W/30 is probably ?W/27.5 which stress gaskets more or best same as W/40, less resilent against leakage and more noisy with less damping etc. in comparison.

If someone believe they know more than Subaru Japan that ?W/30 for cooler fna is fine for fxt and recommends to others via guess work and speculation against designed spec, perhaps he can also guess that ?W/20 is also very logically fine for fxt and certainly for fna then .. lol !

Most importantly, driveability for me at stock at 350nm/240 bhp for now is fine after 10 yrs of estima and 10 yrs of merc w214 masterpiece .. not trail blazers for sure.

However if some tuners put their $ where their mouths to say all will be fine and inked down warranty for my engine and cvt gb for the remaining 7 yrs of my fxt, I will go camp overnight .. which the guy paying 6k for his cvt gb overhaul is now wishing that they had done so .. lol !

Cheers.

Richard

Edited October 11, 2020 by richard_crl032