Honda Civic 2007 Repair/Maintenance

[Metalslug2]

Going to get a Honda Civic 2007, any known problems i should look out for and change?

 

How much will the estimated costs be?

 

Thank you!

[Spinelli_ck]

Going to get a Honda Civic 2007, any known problems i should look out for and change?

 

How much will the estimated costs be?

 

Thank you!

 

check the followings:

 

1. engine mount

2. shock absorber

3. wheel bearings

4. lower arms

5. drive shaft

6. clutch (for manual FD)

7. aircon magnetic clutch

[Watwheels]

Previously I had the 2006 Civic FD1 but have since traded in for current car. Engine mounts aren't durable, take note. Cost around 300+ including labour to replace top and bottom mounts. The mounts comes as a complete set. 5 or 6 mounts, that's 2 or 3 top and 3 bottom. The bottom ones wear out pretty quickly.

 

Front & rear shock absorber and front lower arms. Damage was around 2.2K including labour. Front absorbers and lower arms are original, rear are KYB.

 

Rear wheel bearings. A set costs 200+ including labour. Original comes with the bearing housing. If you want cheap you may want to just replace the old ball bearings on the existing housing. For this I can't say how long it will last. Original will last longer.

 

Radiator cap seal worn out. This doesn't cost much to replace the cap.

 

Also look out for engine oil leaks around the engine head. Gearbox leaks and hydraulic power steering leaks. I didn't fix all these coz it will likely cost too much. If you have these problem or problems fret not just have all the fluids on hand to top up when the level falls low.

Edited March 27, 2015 by Watwheels

[Quantum]

Going to get a Honda Civic 2007, any known problems i should look out for and change?

 

How much will the estimated costs be?

 

Thank you!

depends on How many mileage and MT or AT,

in general, if less 100k Mileage,

besides basic service items, in additional

1. change gearbox oil

2. Change brake fluid.

3. Check or Change brake pads

4. Top up AC gas (if necessary)

5. Check drive shaft (if less 100k, no need)

6. Check Wheel bearings (if less 100k, no need)

7. Check Clutch for MT (if less 100k, no need)

8. Change spark plugs

9. Check Battery

[Cheefarn]

I am driving a 2008 FL FD1. 1st owner since day one, full TLC with full svc at stimulated intervals. Been using Mobil 1 and now Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20.

 

Yes Honda parts tends to wear out fairly quickly and they are not cheap even if u buy outside and replace outside

 

This is what I've replaced so far, mileage at 80000+km

 

- Rear wheel bearings. Bought factory originals from stockiest at $110 each (they are actually made by NTN bearings), so its $220. Labor cost $200... Total: no eyes see...

 

- Engine mounts. 4 units. Bought from outside. In retrospect, I seriously do think that we only need to replace 3 only. the upper left mount is just a simple rotary joint with no rubber nor shocks inside. It's very unlikely it will wear off. Anyway its $100x2 and $70x2. Labor charge: $120. Total: No eye see...

 

- Front AND rear disc rotors. Honda front disc rotors tends to warp very easily. Replaced the 1st set under warranty during the 2nd year. The 2nd set warped again at the 4th year. TMD, totally give up on originals and self imported a full front/rear, cross drilled and slotted set from Canada. item itself costs no more than USD$150 with ceramic pads, but the air fright adds another 100% to the cost. Total cost: No eyes see.

 

- New Toyo C1S Tires... $500...

 

Upcoming replacement projects.

 

- Shocks. Shocks are almost dead. Car quite bouncy and floaty esp if u drive fast over bumpy road. KYB Excel G seems to be the only choice. Unless u strike TOTO and upgrade all the way to adj coil over suspensions. Costs: !@#$%^&

 

- Front lower control arm bushings. TMD I was told we need to replace the whole control arm although it is just the front pillow bushings that has cracked. Workshops claimed they don't have proper press tools to remove the worn bushings and reinstall. It will be $130 per control arm. So it will be $260. Labor... I don't want to know la!... Total cost:

 

- Blown hazard light switch backlight. WTF, of all things? I think I will ignore this.

 

Well so much for Made in Japan quality huh...

 

The FD Civic is the last of the great Civics. It has to be treasured of cos, but as you can see, the longer u keep the car, the maint costs keep going up, and it goes up quite exponentially sigh...

 

For a purchase price of a Cat B COE today back in 2008, you really cant find a brand new sharp handling B&B car that can do a century sprint in 10 secs and redline at 7000rpm these days

 

 

Yes some may argue with a brand new car, you will get 5 to 10 yrs factory warranty plus, depending on which brand/model you buy, you will get 10 yrs free services too. I like the Kia Forte, but the weak 1.6L is just no match to FD1 R18A in terms of pure power. Only the Forte Koup Turbo is worth the trouble, but the $$ from C&C is not. And I understand C&C no longer import the Koup anymore. Prices too high and no sales at all.

 

And then the financial burden of buying a new car....

 

[MQX87511]

I am driving a 2008 FL FD1. 1st owner since day one, full TLC with full svc at stimulated intervals. Been using Mobil 1 and now Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20.

 

Yes Honda parts tends to wear out fairly quickly and they are not cheap even if u buy outside and replace outside

 

This is what I've replaced so far, mileage at 80000+km

 

- Rear wheel bearings. Bought factory originals from stockiest at $110 each (they are actually made by NTN bearings), so its $220. Labor cost $200... Total: no eyes see...

 

- Engine mounts. 4 units. Bought from outside. In retrospect, I seriously do think that we only need to replace 3 only. the upper left mount is just a simple rotary joint with no rubber nor shocks inside. It's very unlikely it will wear off. Anyway its $100x2 and $70x2. Labor charge: $120. Total: No eye see...

 

- Front AND rear disc rotors. Honda front disc rotors tends to warp very easily. Replaced the 1st set under warranty during the 2nd year. The 2nd set warped again at the 4th year. TMD, totally give up on originals and self imported a full front/rear, cross drilled and slotted set from Canada. item itself costs no more than USD$150 with ceramic pads, but the air fright adds another 100% to the cost. Total cost: No eyes see.

 

- New Toyo C1S Tires... $500...

 

Upcoming replacement projects.

 

- Shocks. Shocks are almost dead. Car quite bouncy and floaty esp if u drive fast over bumpy road. KYB Excel G seems to be the only choice. Unless u strike TOTO and upgrade all the way to adj coil over suspensions. Costs: !@#$%^&

 

- Front lower control arm bushings. TMD I was told we need to replace the whole control arm although it is just the front pillow bushings that has cracked. Workshops claimed they don't have proper press tools to remove the worn bushings and reinstall. It will be $130 per control arm. So it will be $260. Labor... I don't want to know la!... Total cost:

 

- Blown hazard light switch backlight. WTF, of all things? I think I will ignore this.

 

Well so much for Made in Japan quality huh...

 

The FD Civic is the last of the great Civics. It has to be treasured of cos, but as you can see, the longer u keep the car, the maint costs keep going up, and it goes up quite exponentially sigh...

 

For a purchase price of a Cat B COE today back in 2008, you really cant find a brand new sharp handling B&B car that can do a century sprint in 10 secs and redline at 7000rpm these days

 

 

Yes some may argue with a brand new car, you will get 5 to 10 yrs factory warranty plus, depending on which brand/model you buy, you will get 10 yrs free services too. I like the Kia Forte, but the weak 1.6L is just no match to FD1 R18A in terms of pure power. Only the Forte Koup Turbo is worth the trouble, but the $$ from C&C is not. And I understand C&C no longer import the Koup anymore. Prices too high and no sales at all.

 

And then the financial burden of buying a new car....

 

Hello here,

I'm also driving a 2008 Civic FD1, 70000km+, feeling everything quite good leh,

appreciate to share how did you find wheel bearings and Engine mounts need to change?

my service adviser also never advised my to change disc rotors, even if brake pads also in original set right now,

BTW, I still do service in KM

[Cheefarn]

Hello here,

I'm also driving a 2008 Civic FD1, 70000km+, feeling everything quite good leh,

appreciate to share how did you find wheel bearings and Engine mounts need to change?

my service adviser also never advised my to change disc rotors, even if brake pads also in original set right now,

BTW, I still do service in KM

 

For wheel bearings its easy. There will a droning sound coming from the rear everytime u drive. Its as if a motorcyclist is following u everywhere u go. The sound will go louder very quickly since bearing is a fast spinning object. When the bearings are worn out, the surface will not longer be smooth and true. And the friction will cause it to wear off even more quickly.

 

And worn bearings may result in poor fuel economy too. Since the rear wheels are more reluctant to spin now. You need more engine power to turn them over.

 

Engine mount. Well my technicians at the workshop I visit regularly told me the whole engine has sunken further into the engine bay. And they can visually see the rubber mounting cracked and/or getting bloated. And when the engine is started, the whole car vibrates more than usual, and when you go over bumps or irregular surfaces, you can actually hear and feel metal banging on each other as the shocks in the mounts lost their ability to cushion the shocks. The whole engine and transmission was literally vibrating directly onto the car chassis. Hence your whole car will feel restless and noisy too.

 

As for disc rotors, its simple. When you brake gently from 80-90kmh, do u feel and see your steering wheel vibrating? If so the rotors have warped and needs to be replaced. Its a road hazard to keep using warped disc rotors as your braking ability will be reduced esp at high speed. Try driving >110kmh on the highway and brake... you will know what I mean.

 

Aiyo, you need to replace all pads asap, esp the rear pads. Rear pads are thinner and they don't have as much mileage as the front.

[Spinelli_ck]

Honda uses NTN wheel bearings. just make sure they are made in Japan. it is not necessary to buy Honda brand bearings which cost more because of the logo. it is more important that the workshop has the necessary tools to press the new bearings instead of using a hammers.

 

you may drop me a pm on where to order new bearings if the boss of your workshop does not mind replacement parts bought from outside.

[Spinelli_ck]

NTN wheel bearings for FD1 and FD4.

[Spinelli_ck]

Hello here,

I'm also driving a 2008 Civic FD1, 70000km+, feeling everything quite good leh,

appreciate to share how did you find wheel bearings and Engine mounts need to change?

my service adviser also never advised my to change disc rotors, even if brake pads also in original set right now,

BTW, I still do service in KM

 

an alternative way to confirm if the wheel bearings need to be replaced is to:

 

1. jack up the car.

2. put both hands at the six o'clock position (top and bottom of the wheel).

3. rock the wheel back and forth and check if there is any free play.

[Metalslug2]

I am driving a 2008 FL FD1. 1st owner since day one, full TLC with full svc at stimulated intervals. Been using Mobil 1 and now Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20.

 

Yes Honda parts tends to wear out fairly quickly and they are not cheap even if u buy outside and replace outside

 

This is what I've replaced so far, mileage at 80000+km

 

- Rear wheel bearings. Bought factory originals from stockiest at $110 each (they are actually made by NTN bearings), so its $220. Labor cost $200... Total: no eyes see...

 

- Engine mounts. 4 units. Bought from outside. In retrospect, I seriously do think that we only need to replace 3 only. the upper left mount is just a simple rotary joint with no rubber nor shocks inside. It's very unlikely it will wear off. Anyway its $100x2 and $70x2. Labor charge: $120. Total: No eye see...

 

- Front AND rear disc rotors. Honda front disc rotors tends to warp very easily. Replaced the 1st set under warranty during the 2nd year. The 2nd set warped again at the 4th year. TMD, totally give up on originals and self imported a full front/rear, cross drilled and slotted set from Canada. item itself costs no more than USD$150 with ceramic pads, but the air fright adds another 100% to the cost. Total cost: No eyes see.

 

- New Toyo C1S Tires... $500...

 

Upcoming replacement projects.

 

- Shocks. Shocks are almost dead. Car quite bouncy and floaty esp if u drive fast over bumpy road. KYB Excel G seems to be the only choice. Unless u strike TOTO and upgrade all the way to adj coil over suspensions. Costs: !@#$%^&

 

- Front lower control arm bushings. TMD I was told we need to replace the whole control arm although it is just the front pillow bushings that has cracked. Workshops claimed they don't have proper press tools to remove the worn bushings and reinstall. It will be $130 per control arm. So it will be $260. Labor... I don't want to know la!... Total cost:

 

- Blown hazard light switch backlight. WTF, of all things? I think I will ignore this.

 

Well so much for Made in Japan quality huh...

 

The FD Civic is the last of the great Civics. It has to be treasured of cos, but as you can see, the longer u keep the car, the maint costs keep going up, and it goes up quite exponentially sigh...

 

For a purchase price of a Cat B COE today back in 2008, you really cant find a brand new sharp handling B&B car that can do a century sprint in 10 secs and redline at 7000rpm these days

 

 

Yes some may argue with a brand new car, you will get 5 to 10 yrs factory warranty plus, depending on which brand/model you buy, you will get 10 yrs free services too. I like the Kia Forte, but the weak 1.6L is just no match to FD1 R18A in terms of pure power. Only the Forte Koup Turbo is worth the trouble, but the $$ from C&C is not. And I understand C&C no longer import the Koup anymore. Prices too high and no sales at all.

 

And then the financial burden of buying a new car....

 

 

Thank you for your info. Yes I am driving a Nissan Latio right now, and even though e parts are abit pricey, they seem more durable. The famous one is the sparks which lasts for 100k.

Seems like as we drive older n older cars, the maintenance does go up...

I think likely i will get the car first, and then 1 time buy all e parts go JB spend 1 day to do there. That way can save most.

Surprisingly that the engine mount is not so durable, but in any case I find the FD looks like a great car to drive. Double wishbone or something?

I am thinkin to get the normal AT since I dont think I need paddle shifts and afraid of maintenance costs. Hows the FC btw?

 

Edited March 27, 2015 by Metalslug2

[Cheefarn]

NTN wheel bearings for FD1 and FD4.

Yup ive bought front wheel bearings just in case too. Its NTN box similar to this. Front bearings is alot cheaper than the real. Its just a simple ring bearing, cost me $25ea. But labor will be expensive so its wise to replace them together when you replace the shocks. You will need to alignment when u replace the front bearings. So it makes more sense to replacethen together with the shocks

[Cheefarn]

Paddle shifters are standard equipment if you opt for the 1.8l and 2l civic AT. Its a great setup seriously. Shifts are quick. Hondas gearbox logic is miles ahead as compared to say toyota or mazda.

 

Yes its double wishbones at all corners. The current CMI FB civic loses this at the front and replaced by cheap to build McPherson structs. The new accord also got downgraded similarly. So what bother with new hondas?

[Spinelli_ck]

btw, the OEM of stock Honda shocks is Showa. firm and comfortable. am planning to replace mine soon.

[MQX87511]

 

For wheel bearings its easy. There will a droning sound coming from the rear everytime u drive. Its as if a motorcyclist is following u everywhere u go. The sound will go louder very quickly since bearing is a fast spinning object. When the bearings are worn out, the surface will not longer be smooth and true. And the friction will cause it to wear off even more quickly.

 

And worn bearings may result in poor fuel economy too. Since the rear wheels are more reluctant to spin now. You need more engine power to turn them over.

 

Engine mount. Well my technicians at the workshop I visit regularly told me the whole engine has sunken further into the engine bay. And they can visually see the rubber mounting cracked and/or getting bloated. And when the engine is started, the whole car vibrates more than usual, and when you go over bumps or irregular surfaces, you can actually hear and feel metal banging on each other as the shocks in the mounts lost their ability to cushion the shocks. The whole engine and transmission was literally vibrating directly onto the car chassis. Hence your whole car will feel restless and noisy too.

 

As for disc rotors, its simple. When you brake gently from 80-90kmh, do u feel and see your steering wheel vibrating? If so the rotors have warped and needs to be replaced. Its a road hazard to keep using warped disc rotors as your braking ability will be reduced esp at high speed. Try driving >110kmh on the highway and brake... you will know what I mean.

 

Aiyo, you need to replace all pads asap, esp the rear pads. Rear pads are thinner and they don't have as much mileage as the front.

I think my car so far so good, doesn't have you mentioned phenomenon,

at 70k service, technician check brake pads and it's still thick enough, maybe i'm not harsh driving

[Tcx607]

My 8.5yrs FD2 has shown sign of GB sluggish engagment especially in the morning first move off.

Anyone has contact to purchase good used GB.? Malaysia contact also appreciate.

My experiences with wheel bearing, never use OEM type. Very inferior quality. Please use Honda original part, definitely can last 3-4yrs at least

[Ichibawa]

Common items that would required attention for FD1

- Engine mounts, especially the bottom rear

- Spool valve seal, Crank seal, transmission lever seal, power steering pump seal.

- aircon compressor

- aircon fan motor

[Metalslug2]

Paddle shifters are standard equipment if you opt for the 1.8l and 2l civic AT. Its a great setup seriously. Shifts are quick. Hondas gearbox logic is miles ahead as compared to say toyota or mazda.

 

Yes its double wishbones at all corners. The current CMI FB civic loses this at the front and replaced by cheap to build McPherson structs. The new accord also got downgraded similarly. So what bother with new hondas?

 

i see. i thought it would be more maintenance. do u guys use it?

 

i abit suaku. double wishbones is good for what huh? i am driving a latio sports, so far it feels great too. I also drove ES8 before.

 

any issue with ignition coils as latio did have such issues

My 8.5yrs FD2 has shown sign of GB sluggish engagment especially in the morning first move off.

Anyone has contact to purchase good used GB.? Malaysia contact also appreciate.

My experiences with wheel bearing, never use OEM type. Very inferior quality. Please use Honda original part, definitely can last 3-4yrs at least

 

wow GB problem? how much is your mileage?