520i tune to 528i performance

[Thaiyotakamli]

 

Yup, it stops recording when the power goes off. Not sure if it can be configured differently. Configuring the Blackvue (at least my older model) is a bit of a pain, because you have to put the micro SD card into a computer to do the settings - there's no inbuilt display.

 

The Blackvue can be set to automatically go into parking mode. Just leave it on and park your car, then it'll be triggered by motion detection and (knock on wood) g-forces.

 

I like the N (Normal), E (Event) and P (Parking) recording feature and the picture quality. Some features I haven't been able to get working like the map view thing, but I'm not that fussy.

 

I suppose I could say "screw it" and leave ASS on, but I'm very afraid of stop light incidents. Lots of idiots out there on the road, that bloody crane video just underscores my point.

Surprisingly cos during ASS aircon and idrive never turn off so basically the Blackvue should be continue to receive power.

 

 

Hmm I asked one of the audio shops that is reputable to install and also ask them to enable the parking mode but he said cannot do on my car. Maybe I should go find other audio shop To ask regarding parking mode.

[Wt_know]

i'm using ITB-100HD ... korean brand ... work great

the only problem is park overnight or park long (> 4-5 hours) the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) kick in and cut power

when i park overnight at my car park, i unplug the power cable from the camera

next morning when i start car, plug back

this is also good where it give time for the camera to cool down

 

Surprisingly cos during ASS aircon and idrive never turn off so basically the Blackvue should be continue to receive power.

Hmm I asked one of the audio shops that is reputable to install and also ask them to enable the parking mode but he said cannot do on my car. Maybe I should go find other audio shop To ask regarding parking mode.

 

Edited March 5, 2015 by Wt_know

[Thaiyotakamli]

i'm using ITB-100HD ... korean brand ... work great

the only problem is park overnight or park long (> 4-5 hours) the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) kick in and cut power

when i park overnight at my car park, i unplug the power cable from the camera

next morning when i start car, plug back

this is also good where it give time for the camera to cool down

 

 

Is it because Ur external battery not big enough? Like that abit ma fan le plug in plug out, once forgot plug in then no record.

[Wt_know]

i did not use external battery.
the camera is plugged into the board directly below the glove compartment to tap power.
if you use battery pack and charged while driving, you can run your camera 24x7

 

btw, this is yesterday 6.45pm traffic at pie ...

nabei, with this kind of traffic simi 520/528 ... 516 enuff liao ...

Edited March 5, 2015 by Wt_know

[1fast1]

 

So you have 2 cars now?

 

PM you.

[Turbonetics]

 

Got link?

 

If the 528i is using higher compression ratio, how about the fuel injectors? Most likely larger capacity fuel injectors are used as well.

 

FI should have lower compression ratio for petrol engines.

[Rayoflight]

Theres a blue m5 around sin ming area.. Lady driver.. Fetch kids around only. Haha

[Mercury1]

Agreed on that, Luckily I won't be the one driving it

 

suv 2.0L sure underpower if not turbocharged.

 

[Mercury1]

Thanks for the info, my friends car also had a chip up and the power increase was pretty significant. The car would wheelspin really easily and that's with 295 tires at the rear Drive carefully in the wet

 

I suppose if the owners wanted to go Eco pro they would just get a regular beemer Eco pro is quite useful in heavy traffic though, I find myself using it more especially with so many road hoggers and slow pokes. Least when you hit the gas the muted response matches theirs.

 

Enjoy your trip up North

 

 

 

Not much of a write-up, but I'm glad you enjoyed it. Might get around to doing a review soon. Anyway, getting the chip in tomorrow, so that should be fun.

 

No Eco Pro in this car. My M135i had four modes - Eco Pro, Comfort (default), Sport and Sport+ without individual customisable settings. But the M5 has individual settings for the Engine/throttle, steering and suspension. The default is Efficient for the first, and Comfort for the latter two.

 

Of course, it has the magic M1 and M2 buttons which I've programmed for spirited road driving (M1) and track use (M2). For M1, I'm using Sport+ for engine and steering and Sport for suspension (because our public roads are quite bumpy), with a transmission setting of D3 (most aggressive auto shifting), and DSC fully on. For M2, I'm using Sport+ for all, with a transmission setting of S3 (most aggressive sequential shifting) and traction set to "MDM" for most fun. The HUD is set to race mode in M2 also.

 

Yes, this car is awesome, can't wait to take it up North. No worries about the drivers up North - Malaysians in Malaysia are generally *much* better drivers than Singaporeans - well, anywhere! They are mostly quick to give way, and they have skills.

 

[Red_bean_bun]

A couple of things ....

 

1. The piston may not be different between the 520i and 528i. The part numbers looks the same to me.

 

Ang mo's part number not the same - BMW part numbers are diff for US vs Europe. Please stop copying and pasting ang mo's posts.

 

2. Sport transmission is just a software map. The 8hp transmission is the same for both chassis. Take 15 minutes for it to be coded. You could also code all kinds of stuff like launch control or eco sailing etc .....

 

3. The stock map for the 528i can be loaded onto a 520i. It's not as direct as just a flash - done wrongly the turbo would be disabled. With some manipulation - it can be done.

 

4. The higher compression - just use fuel with higher Ron to prevent detonation

 

Lastly as an alternative - The anti tune for the N20 is broken. But I'll wait for the OBD protocol to be made available - no need to crack open the Dme...... Troublesome.

[Zyklon]

A couple of things ....

 

1. The piston may not be different between the 520i and 528i. The part numbers looks the same to me.

 

Ang mo's part number not the same - BMW part numbers are diff for US vs Europe. Please stop copying and pasting ang mo's posts.

 

 

Just my humble opinion, but it is best a workshop owner not post on a topic unless he or she is certain.

 

A simple search can be done with the vin code to check the piston part number. A 520i will only share the same piston as the 528i when the 520i is ordered with the low-compression option. Code SA858.

 

Without the low-compression option, as is the case for most 520i here, the piston is different from the 28i version. This is proven and you can probably run a vin check to prove me wrong when you are free.

 

And to check whether one has the 11:1 or 10:1 version is even simpler. Just check the birth cert of the car. N20B20B and N20B20A. 20A means is the 10:1. 20B means 11:1. However, 20A does not necessarily means that it is the 180kw version because it can also be the 135kw version with the SA858 like on some z4...or that is how rumours have it.

 

 

4. The higher compression - just use fuel with higher Ron to prevent detonation

 

You are the expert and you probably know way more than me. However I will like to point out that it is more than just the compression that prevents the 20i from matching the power output of a tuned 28i. Go check some dyno chart. The 20i has been shown to run a much leaner afr than the 28i...

Edited March 15, 2015 by Zyklon

[Red_bean_bun]

 

Just my humble opinion, but it is best a workshop owner not post on a topic unless he or she is certain.

 

A simple search can be done with the vin code to check the piston part number. A 520i will only share the same piston as the 528i when the 520i is ordered with the low-compression option. Code SA858.

 

Without the low-compression option, as is the case for most 520i here, the piston is different from the 28i version. This is proven and you can probably run a vin check to prove me wrong when you are free.

 

And to check whether one has the 11:1 or 10:1 version is even simpler. Just check the birth cert of the car. N20B20B and N20B20A. 20A means is the 10:1. 20B means 11:1. However, 20A does not necessarily means that it is the 180kw version because it can also be the 135kw version with the SA858 like on some z4...or that is how rumours have it.

 

 

You are the expert and you probably know way more than me. However I will like to point out that it is more than just the compression that prevents the 20i from matching the power output of a tuned 28i. Go check some dyno chart. The 20i has been shown to run a much leaner afr than the 28i...

 

Sometime being a workshop owner is a drag ....... seriously. And the other forum is quiet .....

 

Anyway - being that you can squish 11 parts of air into a 520i versus 10 parts for into a 528i - this implies you can afford a much larger margin of error in the tune. Which mean it can be more forgiving if stock maps are used......

 

For argument's sake - If I am wrong about the pistons - better still because its easier to tune a low compression engine than a high compression engine.

 

But if you want to cross reference the piston part number - please use your VIN and a VIN from European 528i.