Anyone got car left 3-4 months want to get rid of?

[iwillbuymerc1day]

Most ppl that come in here are looking for a budget car or a good deal. Some buyers want the cheapest option available and some sellers may wanna pull a fast one. Some comment this and that, some criticise this and that.

 

Some "broke ass idiots" come here to "dream" abt owning a BMW. Cannot? Dream also sala?

Not all dreamers can't face reality. Not all "broke ass idiots" want to own a BMW.

 

U rich and dun need a cheap car u come in this thread for what? Criticise, curse and laugh at the "broke ass idiotic dreamers"?

 

Think twice before u post negative stuff la. Some of ur comments are uncalled for.

 

~ you can say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one. I hope someday u will join us. And the world will live as one ~

 

 

That's why since these people ain't got the cash for the 50% DP, they shouldn't dream of getting one.

[Dark_flan]

 

Can share what's the model and where you found it?

 

My brother proposed that I carry on his loan in exchange for my expiring ride as he wants to renew its COE. Kia Picanto haha but I get a free new paint job for it if I take over.

 

Within these 1 to 2 yrs if COE drop then I can use it to trade in for a bigger ride. Temporary measure.

[Hyundai8818]

Most ppl that come in here are looking for a budget car or a good deal. Some buyers want the cheapest option available and some sellers may wanna pull a fast one. Some comment this and that, some criticise this and that.

 

Some "broke ass idiots" come here to "dream" abt owning a BMW. Cannot? Dream also sala?

Not all dreamers can't face reality. Not all "broke ass idiots" want to own a BMW.

 

U rich and dun need a cheap car u come in this thread for what? Criticise, curse and laugh at the "broke ass idiotic dreamers"?

 

Think twice before u post negative stuff la. Some of ur comments are uncalled for.

 

~ you can say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one. I hope someday u will join us. And the world will live as one ~

 

Give you a Like !

[Mkl22]

I did asked for 5k but I was getting silly offers. Of course I could lower to 3k and then more silly offers might follow.

 

If you offer me 2.5 or 2.8k, I will still sell it to my dealer. Even if u offer me 3k, why shd I trouble myself with all the necessary paperwork, might as well sell it to my dealer? Make sense?

 

bought my car without loan. its super easy. why let the dealer earn. if both cars do not need loan. all you need is to get insurance cover from the day of handover and then go to LTA and do a transfer and hand over cash. DONE!

if the seller has an outstanding loan, then it takes more time for the bank to process and release the car for transfer.

 

I actually paid off the sellers loan with standard chartered and then waited 3days before the bank released the car for transfer. this is the most screwed up bank. never understood why they take so long. I took a risk here as the seller still had the car in his name during the 3days and loan fully paid up. Yes there is a sales agreement. but to pursue anything it will take more $$ and time. But the guy looked honest and i knew where he lived and worked.

[_h_r_]

Finally we have someone taking sensibly.

 

Conti or jap or kimchi cars, all need proper care and maintainance. There are owners who brought cars and dun service them properly or use cheap fix and then kpkb say car no good. And there many others who hear from friend's uncle's friend's mistress who drive a BMW saying car got many many problems.

 

For the record, BMW parts ARE not really expensive as compared to Jap makes. For example, a radiator cost $350. Tell me that is expensive. Of course, my wallet and yours could be dif but that is not my point.

 

Would you rather buy a 1 owner, 50k mileage, not properly maintained car, or a 2 owners, 120k mileage but very well maintained by a car lover owner? I brought my 523 on the latter and my car has not given me any major problem beside the usual wear and tear and a stuck CD.

 

To those who keep saying don't buy BMW. No good. Gear box WILL jerk when stopping. Engine confirm leak oil. Pls. Every time I start my inline 6 engine and drive it, the reward is a sweet engine note purring the "Ultimate Driving Machine".

 

Owning a Bimmer is a dream of many young and old boys and, I have fulfilled mine. I am sure I am going to miss her when I hand her over to my dealer this Friday but she will be remembered....

 

Ps, I traded her to dealer at 2500.

 

$2.5K above paper is a steal! Assuming that body is worth $1K when you scrap and min PARF is $28K, it will cost $31.5K - $28K - $1K body = $2.5K to drive for 7.5 months. That works out to be $333 a month!

[Neutralsg]

Like many subsequent replies: "It wouldn't take much to do the transfer. Even paperwork cost a mere $500 and perhaps less." if it is sold to a buyer who is able to fork out the full cash.

Your post reminds me of another selfish bugger who rather sell his vehicle to a dealer for much less than to his own family member simply because of a 'perceived' inconvenience.

Since we are in this forum, I would have preferred to see members prospering each other rather than those dealers - many of whom tend to lead sincere buyers up the garden path or fleece the ignorant.

I did asked for 5k but I was getting silly offers. Of course I could lower to 3k and then more silly offers might follow.

If you offer me 2.5 or 2.8k, I will still sell it to my dealer. Even if u offer me 3k, why shd I trouble myself with all the necessary paperwork, might as well sell it to my dealer? Make sense?

 

[minion]

 

$350 for a radiator is considered really cheap for a BMW part. A radiator for a Japanese car would probably cost around there or more sometimes.

 

Actually, since people have this impression, it's good news as less people will buy BMWs, making them seem more exclusive. Can't imagine a broke ass idiot owning one. Haha.

 

Actually, you wouldn't have much paperwork if the person doesn't require a loan. Should be able to get a cashier's order and go to LTA to do the transfer right?

 

I would pay in cash. Next time if I see a car that interests me, I would take the initiative and make an offer which of course must be reasonable. Paper value doesn't bother me as long as the depreciation is not high.

[minion]

 

$2.5K above paper is a steal! Assuming that body is worth $1K when you scrap and min PARF is $28K, it will cost $31.5K - $28K - $1K body = $2.5K to drive for 7.5 months. That works out to be $333 a month!

 

that equation only works if it goes to a buyer directly.

 

For dealer they have operation cost, tax, overhead cost and so on. The value also depreciates each month the car is parked in the shop. Of course they still earn but the margin will be absorbed quite a bit.

 

For the buyer who eventually bought from the dealer, it won't be 333 a month. I guess when the buyer takes over, it is at least doubled because of the transferred cost, dealer's profit, and the depreciation accumulated when the car is parked in the shop.

[_h_r_]

 

that equation only works if it goes to a buyer directly.

 

For dealer they have operation cost, tax, overhead cost and so on. The value also depreciates each month the car is parked in the shop. Of course they still earn but the margin will be absorbed quite a bit.

 

For the buyer who eventually bought from the dealer, it won't be 333 a month. I guess when the buyer takes over, it is at least doubled because of the transferred cost, dealer's profit, and the depreciation accumulated when the car is parked in the shop.

 

Let's assume that the buyer bought from the seller at $5K above paper, car body is worth $1K when scrapped and min PARF is $28K, it will cost $34K - $28K - $1K body = $5K to drive for 7.5 months. That works out to be $666 a month! So it was quite a difference between the seller's asking price ($5K above paper) and what he eventually sold it for ($2.5K above paper).

Edited May 6, 2015 by _h_r_

[Old-driver]

 

$2.5K above paper is a steal! Assuming that body is worth $1K when you scrap and min PARF is $28K, it will cost $31.5K - $28K - $1K body = $2.5K to drive for 7.5 months. That works out to be $333 a month!

 

There is a difference between paper value and PARF value... so its not PARF + 2.5k

[_h_r_]

 

There is a difference between paper value and PARF value... so its not PARF + 2.5k

 

Did you read my post? I wrote paper + 2.5K and not PARF + 2.5K.

[Amazon777]

I have been trying to sell my 523 at less than 9k annually and no takers except a few low ballers offering QQ price.

 

Sad that me, a real direct seller with a really well maintained car with a non tempered speedometer has no choice but to off load to a dealer at their asking price. I won't be surprised my car ended up being sold to a buyer at 11k depre subsequently.

 

Was driving an E60 520iA for 5years and have to be scrapped at the 10th year mark last Nov'14. Was seriously thinking of getting a 4th to 5th year old F10 523i. After much scouting for one and having 2nd thought, decided to get one at 7th year mark for hopefully lower depreciation and quantum

 

Last Nov'14, a car broker friend was trying to offload his 9yr old 730iA at paper+$6K body, the bimmer clocked 200K km mileage, but need to pay $55K cash, ended up he scrapped/export the 9yrs old 730i as there's no taker, as buyers are worried of "repairs" if any and rather trust Jap models for older cars.

 

Cannot tahan "car less" ended up getting a 7yr old, 1 owner C&C, C180K @ $16K depreciation which is double the depreciation that I incur for my previous E60 @ $8K depreciation, I only loss $40K in total driving a bimmer for 5 years, luckily didn't incur much repair bill in the 5yrs of ownership. Hence 9yrs+ conti with high paper value and unable to secure any loan, pretty hard to offload. Unless is high end cars such as Porsche which others buy to renew COE.

 

Hoping to to renew my C180K either 5yrs old 10yrs PQP if COE stablized in 2018 and will get another 7yrs olds F10 for spare car in 2 to 3yrs time, as it's calling at $17K to $20K depreciation today depending on no. of owners/mileage/PI or PML etc. Just have to wait patiently, surely can get my hand on a pre-owned F10 in near future.

Edited May 6, 2015 by Amazon777

[Old-driver]

 

Did you read my post? I wrote paper + 2.5K and not PARF + 2.5K.

 

Of coz I did. Paper could be 2k above parf, so it might not be $28k + 2.5k but $30k + 2.5 so dep is 4.5k. That was what I'm trying to say

[Amazon777]

 

$2.5K above paper is a steal! Assuming that body is worth $1K when you scrap and min PARF is $28K, it will cost $31.5K - $28K - $1K body = $2.5K to drive for 7.5 months. That works out to be $333 a month!

 

I scrapped/exported my 10yr old 520iA at $29K PARF+ $2.5K body (In tip top condition, no repairs and 120K geninue mileage).

 

One of my acquaintance in the car trade was offering me $3K body value but due to timing, I've given it to this Turf City scrap dealer who gave me full cash for PARF+Body

 

Hence if someone bought a 9.25 yr old E60 at paper+ $2.5K body is basically driving it for free, only depreciate the balance residual COE about $1K+ over 7.5mths

Edited May 6, 2015 by Amazon777

[Latio2005A]

Like many subsequent replies: "It wouldn't take much to do the transfer. Even paperwork cost a mere $500 and perhaps less." if it is sold to a buyer who is able to fork out the full cash.

Your post reminds me of another selfish bugger who rather sell his vehicle to a dealer for much less than to his own family member simply because of a 'perceived' inconvenience.

Since we are in this forum, I would have preferred to see members prospering each other rather than those dealers - many of whom tend to lead sincere buyers up the garden path or fleece the ignorant.

 

 

Well said.

I can't subscribe to his logic either.

 

Two thumps up and humble 5 points for you!

[_h_r_]

 

I scrapped/exported my 10yr old 520iA at $29K PARF+ $2.5K body (In tip top condition, no repairs and 120K geninue mileage).

 

One of my acquaintance in the car trade was offering me $3K body value but due to timing, I've given it to this Turf City scrap dealer who gave me full cash for PARF+Body

 

Hence if someone bought a 9.25 yr old E60 at paper+ $2.5K body is basically driving it for free, only depreciate the balance residual COE about $1K+ over 7.5mths

 

Now 523i body worth only around $1.7K according to Quotz. I assumed 523i body will be worth $1K when it is scrapped.

[Haikel]

Dear bros let this thread to serve its purpose . can see its taking a diversion. hope not to offend anyone. regards

[iwillbuymerc1day]

Thank u.

 

I browse sgcm everyday looking for cars and most owners peg the price nearly the same as dealers. I really no understand. Like that buy from dealer I can still kpkb and lemon them. Who will wanna buy from the direct sellers. Sometimes I wonder if they are really direct sellers. Jin tired...

 

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