Hyundai Accent 2014

[basicallynicholas]

So far pumped four times, data for my last three pumps are:

 

Distance (km) Amount (litre)

454 37.213

472 36.725

461 36.444

 

Haven't made any functional changes to the car yet, except installing an audible car alarm that integrates with the original remote, and installing a OBD2 HUD speedometer which didn't work with my old Lancer GLX (old Lancer was using JOBD, not compatible).

 

Comparing it with my old Lancer, I'm very happy with this car. Surpassed my expectations so far. The only thing I don't like is the body roll when cornering.

Yours is a manual or a automatic bro?

Turn off the economy mode. I find that I retards the acceleration where I had to depress it even more to get to my liking, in the process increasing FC.

 

Hope it helps.

It will improve after your synthetic engine oil change. Dun use the crop shell helix ultra 5w40, that one is really cheap and lousy engine oil where you can buy at $38 per 5l bottle in giant during sales times.

 

The reason why ADs are using as it gives them huge profit margin. U can get it during sales for less than $40 but they are charging some $100+.

 

Amsoil, pennzoil ultra platinum, motul, redline are way better. Overseas, car enthusiasts even send in their oil sample to determine the engine wear and break down of the oil after certain mileage..

I offed it already but it still depletes very quickly. I Guess it's just the nature of my job.

Turn off the economy mode. I find that I retards the acceleration where I had to depress it even more to get to my liking, in the process increasing FC.

 

Hope it helps.

It will improve after your synthetic engine oil change. Dun use the crop shell helix ultra 5w40, that one is really cheap and lousy engine oil where you can buy at $38 per 5l bottle in giant during sales times.

 

The reason why ADs are using as it gives them huge profit margin. U can get it during sales for less than $40 but they are charging some $100+.

 

Amsoil, pennzoil ultra platinum, motul, redline are way better. Overseas, car enthusiasts even send in their oil sample to determine the engine wear and break down of the oil after certain mileage..

I offed it already but it still depletes very quickly. I Guess it's just the nature of my job.

[Yaoxing]

Mine is a manual. 

Yours is a manual or a automatic bro?

 

[Fuelsaver]

Turn off the economy mode. I find that I retards the acceleration where I had to depress it even more to get to my liking, in the process increasing FC.

 

Hope it helps.

It will improve after your synthetic engine oil change. Dun use the crop shell helix ultra 5w40, that one is really cheap and lousy engine oil where you can buy at $38 per 5l bottle in giant during sales times.

 

The reason why ADs are using as it gives them huge profit margin. U can get it during sales for less than $40 but they are charging some $100+.

 

Amsoil, pennzoil ultra platinum, motul, redline are way better. Overseas, car enthusiasts even send in their oil sample to determine the engine wear and break down of the oil after certain mileage..

have not done any UOA, but i believe SHU EO is not an inferior product. i've been using SHU pureplus tech for a few service n found that my eo dipstick lower end was cleaned - silvery metal, not golden yellow / brownish tainted. engine also runs quieter than when i was on some castrol titanium albeit 10 grade thinner (30 instead of 40; it claimed can last up to 15000 miles).

[Forte3737]

have not done any UOA, but i believe SHU EO is not an inferior product. i've been using SHU pureplus tech for a few service n found that my eo dipstick lower end was cleaned - silvery metal, not golden yellow / brownish tainted. engine also runs quieter than when i was on some castrol titanium albeit 10 grade thinner (30 instead of 40; it claimed can last up to 15000 miles).

I am surprised that a lot say that shell is an inferior oil. On what evidence they say this? Based on their butt feel? These are really shallow people. They say komoco use shell cos of profit margin. Come on lah...if the product is inferior, no amount of margin will make komoco and cycle carriage use their oil. They have a reputation to maintain.

[KoreanLover]

Why would I do that if I can get the same thing for much cheaper???

 

Yup. What he said don't make sense at all.

 

Just because AD uses a particular oil does not mean it is the best. 

[Fuelsaver]

I am surprised that a lot say that shell is an inferior oil. On what evidence they say this? Based on their butt feel? These are really shallow people. They say komoco use shell cos of profit margin. Come on lah...if the product is inferior, no amount of margin will make komoco and cycle carriage use their oil. They have a reputation to maintain.

on this topic i believe it's mass quantity that may have reduced the price - imagine most AD using it, lotsa outside WS also using it, giant n ntuc also selling it. the rest of brand not as common, though can get better price if order online. shell is like maconalds, others r like long john silver, mos burger, burger king etc.

 

like u, i don't agree SHU eo is inferior, based on my user experience. before the pureplus tech, i would feel engine slightly louder / rougher if this was used though.

[Tkseah]

I am surprised that a lot say that shell is an inferior oil. On what evidence they say this? Based on their butt feel? These are really shallow people. They say komoco use shell cos of profit margin. Come on lah...if the product is inferior, no amount of margin will make komoco and cycle carriage use their oil. They have a reputation to maintain.

 

ADs will not use inferior oil that compromises the car engine reliability.. It will bite them back if the car engines starts to give problem during the warranty period.. I believe those who use shell does it partly becos it is a recognizable and 'trusted' brand to the layman majority..  

[Forte3737]

ADs will not use inferior oil that compromises the car engine reliability.. It will bite them back if the car engines starts to give problem during the warranty period.. I believe those who use shell does it partly becos it is a recognizable and 'trusted' brand to the layman majority..

Ya lor... Only those Yahya papaya people think they know oil and engine better than anybody else

[teomingern]

To be honest I don't think any of the engine oils sold out there are inferior products. Different car companies use different oil brands. And all oil brands are sanctioned or promoted by different car brands... so how can any car company use an inferior product as some have rightly pointed out.

 

So having said that, my take is always just buy the cheapest engine oil that fits the specifications listed by your car manufacturer. That should suffice. I usually don't put too much stock on branding.

One more thing is that, there are but only so many oil manufacturers. Most are simply buying the oil from the same sources and adding their own secret sauce or simply re-branding what is essentially the same product. And this occurs for various reasons including region separation, product line separation, etc...

[Forte3737]

To be honest I don't think any of the engine oils sold out there are inferior products. Different car companies use different oil brands. And all oil brands are sanctioned or promoted by different car brands... so how can any car company use an inferior product as some have rightly pointed out.

 

So having said that, my take is always just buy the cheapest engine oil that fits the specifications listed by your car manufacturer. That should suffice. I usually don't put too much stock on branding.

One more thing is that, there are but only so many oil manufacturers. Most are simply buying the oil from the same sources and adding their own secret sauce or simply re-branding what is essentially the same product. And this occurs for various reasons including region separation, product line separation, etc...

If that's your view, at least get oils certified by api

[teomingern]

If that's your view, at least get oils certified by api

 

The oils that you buy off the shelf are all certified by the respective bodies from their countries of origin.

[Forte3737]

Only those with the starburst logo are certified by API. Those without are not certified

The oils that you buy off the shelf are all certified by the respective bodies from their countries of origin.

 

[teomingern]

Only those with the starburst logo are certified by API. Those without are not certified

 

Never noticed the starburst logo... but then again I don't buy my own engine oil...

 

Link here for others to read:

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/oil-and-natural-gas/engine%20oil/motor_oil_guide_2010_120210.pdf?la=en

 

Does this apply to all oil manufacturers or just the US & Jap ones?

Edited April 19, 2016 by teomingern

[Hoonigan]

After reading some of your rubbish contribution.. it seems like price is the general reason why people don't buy Accent.

And the main reason people will buy Accent despite it's price is the Manual transmission that is lacking in today's car market.

 

I decided on the Accent Manual 5D and it's really quite alright.

 

First, it's 5D hatch design is more conservative and less glamourous. Meaning the design can probably last for a long time, unlike some gaudy Volvo hatch that had some subjective acquired taste on some of its rear lights. ( OK, I hate Volvos )

 

Now on my 2nd tank, I am glad to say the performance is somewhat lacking, basically because it is only a 100 hp engine from a 1.4 litre.

However it had 6 gears, albeit too close for my liking, but nevertheless it's close gearing gets the car moving off as briskly as most automatic and bigger engine sized sedan.

 

Fuel consumption, although not a real deal in my ownership of cars for the past many many years, especially when I've driven much much worst car that is running barely 8.5 km/l, the Accent actually gave me a 5.4 litre/100km. Convert that, it's 18.5 km/l. That's more than twice of my worst FC car I sold before I bought the Accent.

 

Just a note on some trival matters about Accent.

 

1. The best tyre pressure to get the most pliant and comfortable ride is to run the pressure at 200 to 210.

2. Manual transmission cars, get into the proper RPM zone 2000 to 3000 rpm before you shift to the next gear.

3. RPM is 2500 when travelling at 90-100 km/h which seems high for some. but it is naturely normal for such cars of smaller engine.

 

The reason why I didn't took the new Elantra then is, honestly .. the manual transmission. 

I've driven a older Elantra ( the Avante ) previously and being me, I dislike big bulky cars. 

I've driven small hatches such as the Diahatsu Charade and Hyundai Getz 1.3 and both are to my liking.

Also had the older Accent for a few years and I could say, Hyundai models are generally tough and don't give you surprises. 

Because the engine are less complicated and had lesser electronics intervention, unlike other more sophisticated ones you see today from other makers, I'm sure it won't give you long down time even when the car is faulty.

Some modern cars that had so many electronics that you are forced to go back to authorized workshop to get the fault rectified.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kangadrool]

2.5K rpm at 90-100 km/hr for manual car is very normal. 

 

My 1.6M is 3.0-3.2K rpm at this range. FC is the best when speed is consistent around this range although engine speed is above 3K.

 

After reading some of your rubbish contribution.. it seems like price is the general reason why people don't buy Accent.

And the main reason people will buy Accent despite it's price is the Manual transmission that is lacking in today's car market.

 

I decided on the Accent Manual 5D and it's really quite alright.

 

First, it's 5D hatch design is more conservative and less glamourous. Meaning the design can probably last for a long time, unlike some gaudy Volvo hatch that had some subjective acquired taste on some of its rear lights. ( OK, I hate Volvos )

 

Now on my 2nd tank, I am glad to say the performance is somewhat lacking, basically because it is only a 100 hp engine from a 1.4 litre.

However it had 6 gears, albeit too close for my liking, but nevertheless it's close gearing gets the car moving off as briskly as most automatic and bigger engine sized sedan.

 

Fuel consumption, although not a real deal in my ownership of cars for the past many many years, especially when I've driven much much worst car that is running barely 8.5 km/l, the Accent actually gave me a 5.4 litre/100km. Convert that, it's 18.5 km/l. That's more than twice of my worst FC car I sold before I bought the Accent.

 

Just a note on some trival matters about Accent.

 

1. The best tyre pressure to get the most pliant and comfortable ride is to run the pressure at 200 to 210.

2. Manual transmission cars, get into the proper RPM zone 2000 to 3000 rpm before you shift to the next gear.

3. RPM is 2500 when travelling at 90-100 km/h which seems high for some. but it is naturely normal for such cars of smaller engine.

 

The reason why I didn't took the new Elantra then is, honestly .. the manual transmission. 

I've driven a older Elantra ( the Avante ) previously and being me, I dislike big bulky cars. 

I've driven small hatches such as the Diahatsu Charade and Hyundai Getz 1.3 and both are to my liking.

Also had the older Accent for a few years and I could say, Hyundai models are generally tough and don't give you surprises. 

Because the engine are less complicated and had lesser electronics intervention, unlike other more sophisticated ones you see today from other makers, I'm sure it won't give you long down time even when the car is faulty.

Some modern cars that had so many electronics that you are forced to go back to authorized workshop to get the fault rectified.

 

Edited April 20, 2016 by Kangadrool

[Ivan_06]

After reading some of your rubbish contribution.. it seems like price is the general reason why people don't buy Accent.

And the main reason people will buy Accent despite it's price is the Manual transmission that is lacking in today's car market.

 

I decided on the Accent Manual 5D and it's really quite alright.

 

First, it's 5D hatch design is more conservative and less glamourous. Meaning the design can probably last for a long time, unlike some gaudy Volvo hatch that had some subjective acquired taste on some of its rear lights. ( OK, I hate Volvos )

 

Now on my 2nd tank, I am glad to say the performance is somewhat lacking, basically because it is only a 100 hp engine from a 1.4 litre.

However it had 6 gears, albeit too close for my liking, but nevertheless it's close gearing gets the car moving off as briskly as most automatic and bigger engine sized sedan.

 

Fuel consumption, although not a real deal in my ownership of cars for the past many many years, especially when I've driven much much worst car that is running barely 8.5 km/l, the Accent actually gave me a 5.4 litre/100km. Convert that, it's 18.5 km/l. That's more than twice of my worst FC car I sold before I bought the Accent.

 

Just a note on some trival matters about Accent.

 

1. The best tyre pressure to get the most pliant and comfortable ride is to run the pressure at 200 to 210.

2. Manual transmission cars, get into the proper RPM zone 2000 to 3000 rpm before you shift to the next gear.

3. RPM is 2500 when travelling at 90-100 km/h which seems high for some. but it is naturely normal for such cars of smaller engine.

 

The reason why I didn't took the new Elantra then is, honestly .. the manual transmission.

I've driven a older Elantra ( the Avante ) previously and being me, I dislike big bulky cars.

I've driven small hatches such as the Diahatsu Charade and Hyundai Getz 1.3 and both are to my liking.

Also had the older Accent for a few years and I could say, Hyundai models are generally tough and don't give you surprises.

Because the engine are less complicated and had lesser electronics intervention, unlike other more sophisticated ones you see today from other makers, I'm sure it won't give you long down time even when the car is faulty.

Some modern cars that had so many electronics that you are forced to go back to authorized workshop to get the fault rectified.

Mind sharing your driving habits and pattern? How many percent city and highway.

 

At your gear shift at which speed fo

1st to 2nd

2nd to 3rd

3rd to 4th

4th to 5th

5th to 6th.

 

I thought my FC was good but yours is even tok kong. Heehee.

 

For one tank till low fuel indicator lights up, what's your mileage.. And how much can you pump. Thank you.

Edited April 21, 2016 by Ivan_06

[PeterPP]

For my Auto is range from 5.8 /100 to 6.8/100

[Ivan_06]

For my Auto is range from 5.8 /100 to 6.8/100

Whats your mileage for one tank. Till around the low fuel light lights up.