Isit ok to mix Engine oil?

[Jamesc]

no issue, been there done that. Motul is a waste of $$..... felt cheated for the first 3 years of my ride.........

 

Absolutely right, lousy oil.

 

If you have any more of that 300V then

 

I can help get rid of it for you.

 

[Jamesc]

 

I feel different engines react somewhat differently to various EOs. Without a UOA, you basically do not know the quality of the oil at the end of the 10k kms. Also need to trial and error to get the EO you prefer most (butt feel?). For example, the Motul-TRD is great for Toyota cars, but average on Mazda. The same Red Line 5W30 may feel very different in an Altis compared to a CTR. However, a good fully syn EO will work excellently on its own without the need for additional additives.

 

There are some who will say Motul 300v is overkill and Turtle oil is enough but when one is paying $150k on a car, what is the benchmark? And then there is Bridgestone... or Roadstone?

 

You are only paying 150k bcos of the COE.

 

So if no COE and the car was $20k you would use a cheaper oil

 

and if COE hit $180k and the car became $200k you would use a more

 

expensive oil?

 

Thats like saying if I stay in a condo I must use more expensive shampoo

 

but if I was staying in a 3 room HDB I should use a cheaper shampoo.

 

I say get the shampoo that cleans your hair good enough already.

 

[Volvobrick]

 

I feel different engines react somewhat differently to various EOs. Without a UOA, you basically do not know the quality of the oil at the end of the 10k kms. Also need to trial and error to get the EO you prefer most (butt feel?). For example, the Motul-TRD is great for Toyota cars, but average on Mazda. The same Red Line 5W30 may feel very different in an Altis compared to a CTR. However, a good fully syn EO will work excellently on its own without the need for additional additives.

 

There are some who will say Motul 300v is overkill and Turtle oil is enough but when one is paying $150k on a car, what is the benchmark? And then there is Bridgestone... or Roadstone?

It is not the engine oil feeling different in different cars lah! It is the CARS and Engines that are different that's why it feels different!

[Naimed]

 

You are only paying 150k bcos of the COE.

 

So if no COE and the car was $20k you would use a cheaper oil

 

and if COE hit $180k and the car became $200k you would use a more

 

expensive oil?

 

Thats like saying if I stay in a condo I must use more expensive shampoo

 

but if I was staying in a 3 room HDB I should use a cheaper shampoo.

 

I say get the shampoo that cleans your hair good enough already.

 

Bro, talking about current situation la ($150k is perhaps Mazda6, Camry, Kisashi, K5, no?). Wonder who would buy a QQ when COE is $180K?

 

Anyways, I have no issue if anyone wants to pour CL or Turtle into their Huayra, just that I wont be using it in my QQ.

 

Some people stay 4 room driving Jag (using Turtle/CL). Some people in Condo driving QQ (using Motul)...so whatever floats their boat. If my QQ is priced at $200k, it will indeed be very precious! I will make sure I use Motul every 5000km OCI so it doesnt break down.

 

For shampoo, my scalp is a lil sensitive so it is a stringent choice. Even Red Tomatoes/Swanston sells very expensive Korean shampoo (which MCF gave out some trial samples during the Bosch event - wonderful product but too expensive for me).

[F355]

i even mixed 5w20 and 5w30 to form 5w25.............also mixed 5w30 and 5w40 to form 5w35...........all run for 10,000km..........no problem ...............lol.......... [laugh]

 

So you got mix RON 95 and 98 to form RON 96.5 bo .

[Naimed]

It is not the engine oil feeling different in different cars lah! It is the CARS and Engines that are different that's why it feels different!

You are right. Perhaps I didnt put it across accurately. Bottomline is - different EO gives different feel even in the same car. For example, the Altis.

1. Motul-TRD is very very nice.

2. Pennzoil Ultra - some signs of EO consumption. 1st incident on this car.

3. New Shell Helix Ultra - way better than the old SHU EO (so dont know if Pureplus is hype or not - new Pennzoil also using this base + additive). Using this after the Pennzoil and after 5K km, no consumption issue.

4. X-REV - ok for 1st 7K kms. After that, a

5. Toyota EO - an ok oil, no particular good/bad. Never use it since 3rd year.

[nazerath]

last time I tried oil that I do not like, I drain it out after several hundred KM, set it aside and use as top up before an oil change. do not think it matters.

[Tianmo]

 

So you got mix RON 95 and 98 to form RON 96.5 bo .

 

no leh.........but i got try mix SPC92 and shell98 to form SHELLSPC95............also got try JB shell97 and SG shell95 to form shell96................. [laugh]

[Baal]

last time I tried oil that I do not like, I drain it out after several hundred KM, set it aside and use as top up before an oil change. do not think it matters.

Guess top up may be as far as u would want to go, coz, once the oil has been tainted by oxidation, the degradation begins.

 

Could be something like food that has been touch by saliva. Its ok to portion out 1/2 ur luch prior to starting for dinner. But not so ok to eat half from the packet, & save the other half in the packet for dinner.

[Yan66]

no problem mixing but if u need to top up the oil everytime...best to chk if there is any leak

[Baal]

http://www.answers.com/Q/Is_it_harmful_to_mix_regular_motor_oil_with_synthetic

Baal : Casual Reading :


Synthetic and conventional will not "mix" and synthetic creates a barrier on moving parts, that conventional cannot pass. So, too much synthetic, as in a 50/50 blend, will be like running an 8 quart system on 4 quarts, without starving the oil pump.

It will break the synthetic oil down quicker... in conclusion: The correct combination will give you no problems and will yield the benefits of both conventional and synthetic. With Engine/Motor Oil, the maximum amount of synthetic recommended is 25%. Foaming will develop if more is used, and the foam will counteract with lubrication. Higher-priced synthetic blends have more synthetic and/or more friction modifiers. Synthetic Blend as mentioned earlier is not as cost efficient as adding your own bottle of full synthetic for every 3 quarts of conventional. Just make sure the weight is the same.

Additional info or FYI:
Gear Oils can be combined, but with higher regards to percentage than as with oils. I wouldn't play chemist on my vehicle, but if need be to combine, my professional advice would be that the amount of synthetic combined with gear oil would be as little as 1%, so in other words, if you are not certain what gear oil is in... say, your differentials, drain and refill and do not worry about the remainder of gear oil that is in the differential... or leave the old gear oil (unless burnt) and simply top it off with something like Lucas Oil Conditioner that is recommended for gear boxes and will interact with either conventional or synthetic.

As a whole, greases will not blend/fold unless they are of the same "base" and this is more extreme when in regards to synthetic & conventional. Bearings need to fold the grease and exchange old grease with new grease as the bearings pull the new grease in and push the old grease out. The above mentioned barrier will contain one or the other and not allow the other to fold with it. This is where it is important to know what's what. I'll use u-joints as an example here:
When purchased, if the u-joint is packed with Lithium-based grease from the factory and John Doe's 15-minute Lube pumps the u-joints with moly-based conventional, or worse, silicon-based synthetic...

... even if they say "we flushed out the old grease with the new grease", they will not be able remove 100% of the old grease without actually removing/disassembling/cleaning/repacking/reinstalling the u-joint. So, the lithium-based grease will never be refreshed with new grease; It will eventually burn up around the bearings causing the bearing surface to disintegrate and mix in with the burnt grease, ultimately leading to a more speady premature failure due to metal mixed in with the grease. Anyone who has disassembled a bad u-joint may have seen what resembled the absence of bearings + grease and nothing but graphite powder inside. The graphite powder is* the bearings and the grease was either burnt up or thrown out when the tolerances (or slack/slop) became extreme between the yoke and cup after the bearings became worn.

Furthermore:
It could be damaging to an engine to use the wrong API specification oil:

1) Engines that were meticulously engineered/designed using API SH oil (Honda motorcycles for example, but automotive is included) can prevent a higher API rating from sticking to the moving parts in areas such as the main bearings-to-crank journals. If the oil is thrown off the bearing, it is almost as anti-beneficial as no oil at all.

2) When the vehicle has a "flat tappet" style valve train. Alkyl-zinc, now replaced with the anagram "ZDP" or "ZDDP", is needed as a cushion between the camshaft and lifter. SM rated oils are only compatible with API MIL-specs for SJ & SL. Additives such as STP Oil Treatment for 4-cylinders (more ZDP than for 8-cylinders) has a lower ZDP content than the pre-1996 formula.

Special Racing Oils or Motorcycle Oils commonly contain more ZDP to protect main bearings and valve train, as well as additives for break-in periods, which commonly contain so much ZDP that they are recommended to be drained at the first scheduled oil change. The break-in additives can be used in part, to give the .1% (1000ppm)- .16% (1600ppm) content as specified in your owner's manual. Too much for too long can cause sludge, so the 41600ppm+ in say 1pt of the additive, even if reduced by means of diluting with 8 quarts of oil, resulting in a content of a 2600ppm.

ZDP/ZDDP was lowered by the SAE/API to extend the life of catalytic converters. If your vehicle did not come equipped with one, the need for lowed ZDP/ZDDP does not apply to your vehicle and the need for more ZDP/ZDDP most likely does... but will not hurt anything otherwise. Answer No. They are compatible with each other. Answer Not really, lots of the stuff they say about "they can't mix" is all bull. it's just recommended that you stick to one or the other.

Synthetic is thiner and does have different qualities, it gets your engine up to operating temperature quicker (because of it's viscosity), which is "healthy" for your engine because when ran at operating temperature for good amounts of time will get rid of some contaminates.

Hmmmmm. They are both oil. Synthetic is soooo overpriced :( Answer I use a 50-50 blend of synthetic and regular oil in my 85 olds Toronado which has 106,000. I was going to buy the blend quarts but when I asked the saleman what percentage is synthetic and what percentage is oil, he said the companies don't tell you.

He recommended buying quarts of oil and quarts of synthetic and make the mixture myself so I can make the mixture 50-50 or 70% synthetic and 30% oil. It will mix without a problem. The oil companies can make the blended quarts 80% oil and 20% synthetic, you'll never know and they still call it a blend. I'm not a scientist but I think I could change my oil and make my own mixture of 50% synthetic and 50% oil.

Answer synthetic works best by itself. diluting with regular oil only hinders the friction-reducing qualities of the synthetic. it is pricey, but a plus is that you can go longer between changes because synthetic oil molecules form long chains that break apart much slower than normal oil.

Answer You will have no issues with mixing regular motor oil and synthetics together. As for longer drain times peope please use your heads. If you are not going to change the oil as often please change your filter around 3k they still get as dirty as they did with regular oil.

Synthetic Oils Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates.

It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Combustion in the engine will not only leave deposits, but it will actually break the oil down and eat away at the aluminum and steel inside the engine, but even with synthetic oil, if you wait too long to change the oil it will also break down, and have more base stock and less viscosity modifiers.

When synthetics wear out, become acidic, and eventually become saturated with suspended soot particles, just like regular oil, it can also harm your engines interior parts. Again, an oil analysis is a good investment to determine the optimum oil change interval. Never exceed the manufacturer requirements for normal service. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but that is not advised. In short it may give you the peace of mind that it's

Change Intervals
Most manufacturers of synthetic oil advise users to not exceed the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. Part of this is self interest (they don't want to be liable for any damage) but the real reason is that synthetic oil, while it does have certain advantages, still becomes contaminated.


The 3000 Mile Myth
The 3000 mile oil change interval has been pounded into people's heads for decades. It had a scientific basis when engines used non-multi-weight, non-detergent oil. It no longer has any scientific basis, but it is still being promoted by certain entities.


The 3000 Mile Fact
There are some vehicles that need 3,000 mile oil changes, but it's not because the oil goes bad after 3,000 miles. One example is the Saturn S series. These vehicles have a timing chain system that is very sensitive to clean oil because oil pressure is used as hydraulic fluid to ratchet up the timing chain tensioner.

If varnish forms in the timing chain tensioner bore then this system can fail and the chain will become loose and eventually break. I bought a used Saturn and had this happen only one month to the day after I bought it. Dealers have gone as far as tearing out the normal service schedule (6000 miles) and leaving only the severe service schedule. If your engine is destroyed (under warranty) by a failed timing chain then the dealer will legitimately request evidence of oil changes. Unfortunately this problem usually won't manifest itself during the warranty period.


3000 Mile fact
The 3000 mile oil change interval can be extended with today's oil and fuel injection technology. If you have a normally aspirated engine you need to change oil more frequently due to the lack of efficiency of carburetors, they can run excessively rich at times causing fuel dilution to your oil with limits it's lubrication ability.

As for blended synthetics, they have approximately 3% to 5% of real synthetic in them, not a good buy for the price.



Synthetic Blends
Synthetic blend motor oil will contain 25% synthetic base, and 75% conventional base. This is due to the API regulations that allow up to 25% substitution of synthetic into a certified conventional oil without retesting. The additive package of the blended oil is still the same as the conventional oil, due to the same API regs. Synthetic oils will generally use a different additive package than conventional oils, so its a bit hard to say how mixing conventional and synthetic oils together will turn out.

However, there are a number of times I did just that on my vehicle, and the engine is still running fine with over 220k on it. I don't do that anymore, however, as it doesn't save that much money. In the end, mixing the two types is not a recommended way of doing things, and purchasing straight synthetic doesn't cost much more. Now if you are low on oil and need to add a quart or two to get home, put in what you have on hand rather than run low. Then change at your soonest convenience.




UNTRUE:
Synthetic oils are manufactured from standard crude oil, they are simply hydrocracked to eliminate all impurities. The mixing of natural oil and synthetic oil at any ratio does not have any negative effect except adding the impurities of conventional oil to the pure synthetic. It is a common myth that you can't mix the two, but it cannot be farther from the truth.

http://www.answers.com/Q/Is_it_harmful_to_mix_regular_motor_oil_with_synthetic

[Volvobrick]

I propose that we treat engine oil/fuel like girlfriends - some die die stick to one and only one, believing that is the best for their car/them, others think all same same, so OK to change to any brand/any time or even mix them together at any one time.

 

Maybe there is even a correlation between one's engine oil purchase and personal relationship!

 

 

[Kb27]

How does a blonde add engine oil ?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DM6x1iK-XY8&feature=player_detailpage

[Baal]

Recently changed my EO, total about 3.1 L.

- 500ml, Fully Syn 5w 40 API SN (Synergy)

- 300ml, Semi Syn 20w 50 API SN (Caltax)

- 2300ml, Semi Syn 10w 40 API SL (Agip)

Done <50km, so far so good. Feels ok.

[Enye]

 

no leh.........but i got try mix SPC92 and shell98 to form SHELLSPC95............also got try JB shell97 and SG shell95 to form shell96................. [laugh]

You just unearthed the mystery how 95 octane gasoline is manufactured!

[Spring]

Recently changed my EO, total about 3.1 L.

 

- 500ml, Fully Syn 5w 40 API SN (Synergy)

 

- 300ml, Semi Syn 20w 50 API SN (Caltax)

 

- 2300ml, Semi Syn 10w 40 API SL (Agip)

 

Done <50km, so far so good. Feels ok.

Bro, you always the man to learn things from!

Any specific reason why you do this? Also, you did this yourself I assume cos I doubt if the workshops will do it for you. Thanks!!

[Baal]

Bro, you always the man to learn things from!

Any specific reason why you do this? Also, you did this yourself I assume cos I doubt if the workshops will do it for you. Thanks!!

The Caltax eo is a left over from using points to redeem.

 

The Agip was purchased from WS.

 

The Synergy was left over from the last round, this EO was also purchased from WS.

 

Yes, the WS will refuse if I bring my own oil......so in future, with my 'Star Pts' I will use to redeem magazine or somethin....haha.

 

1 reason is to clear the left over oils I have & also coz the last round when I used p[urely 5w 40, was too thin for my car, lots of rattling plastics....

 

I did this via my standard car WS. Whereby my Bike Shop has an agreement with.....

 

The car WS actually uses ELF. Whereas I take oil from my Bike shop which uses Agip & Synergy for Car EO.

[Baal]

Today I covered another near 50km of mostly highway km, thid time , i rev it to 5-6k rpm, smooth. Also overall torque response is better. Be it low end or mid range.

Its an improvement over the last round when I was on pure 5w 40 & I tested the same not long after servicing.

Guess lao engine that is not tight liao, may be benefit from thicker oils.

PS : but i must declare that mine is yesteryear technology 1.4NA, compression 10.0, no VVT....

Edited November 22, 2014 by Baal