24HRs Free Technical Help Desk for your Automotive problems

[Hybridwalker]

Hi,

 

My car is only 1.5 yrs old but I often hear these sounds , wondering if it's normal:

 

1. when parking on an uphill slope, the vehicle "slides" slightly back (can feel it's moving back a little) after putting P gear and handbrake and releasing footbrake. While the car is sliding back, there is an obvious creeking sound that lasts for 1-2 seconds.

 

This happens even when the slope is very slight or the terrain is uneven (eg. outdoor car park).

The steeper the slope the longer it takes to slide and hence the sound. 

 

2. when parked on an uneven terrain, there is a short creeking sound when passengers/driver get in to sit down. Seems to come from the handbrake as it happens only when it is up.

 

No sound when the terrain is perfectly flat (e.g. indoor)

 

no sound when going over humps and uneven roads at low and high speeds. 

 

any ideas? seem the sound all coming from the handbrake. 

 

3. another is a soft 'clunking' or 'gong' sound when pressing footbrake to stop at low speed on downhill. 

Don;t know how to desribe the sound but it 's like a soft knock on a drum. 

 

 

Edited November 15, 2017 by Hybridwalker

[Kopites]

Hi boss need some advice here.

 

My airbag icon ligated. No accident. No deployment.

 

The only unusual happened was my wife unbuckle the seat belt and buckle back while still in motion. Stopped park for 7/8 hrs. When restart the airbag icon lighted lighted without going off.

 

How to reset without going to mechanics?

 

Honda vezel.

[Kopites]

Still no reply?

[Branlee]

Hi. M driving a 2009 kia Cerato forte. Recently noticed light knocking sounds when I accelerate at a very low speed. The sounds will only be there when the air con is turned on and will disappear when higher speed or air con off. Went to workshop and changed the belt tensioner and also changed to another used compressor pulley system. The belt was also changed. Till now, the sound can still be heard. When the mechanic used a tool to hold and tightened the pulleys the sound was gone but the moment it was released the sound came back. What could be the problem here? Thanks 

Edited October 4, 2019 by Branlee

[vanJERMAN]

It all has started few months ago when my wife was driving from work and oil cap was blewn off. She got engine light on, but we bought new cap and light went off. Problem is she drow the car for few KMs to get home and the engine was full of oil that was blown out of machine. They said that the problem was because my father in law didnt tighten the cap when he put some oil in machine. But the thing is I was beside him when he did that and I saw that he tightened it. This is not like bottle when you half tighten it, its oil cap, you tighten it and than check it once more if its tighten.
But well it blew of, machine was full of oil and the first problems started. Engine light on, took it to repair shop and they changed all 4 spark plugs because they said that the problem was with spark plugs when oil went into them. They also asked us if we want to change all 4 coils but since we are selling car, we told them to change only one, that was bad... and believe it or not, next day 2nd coil went bad too, week later when we were driving home the 3rd one went bad. The problem was we had to drove for like 80km to get home and engine was hiccupsing but we got home, and we changed the rest of coils (3rd and 4th).
And here is where the problems started. Since they changed all spark plugs and first coil, the engine was hiccuping (not sure if its the right word to describe it. It feels like it loses the power for a milisecond and it shakes the car.). I noticed that and next day when we took the car to repair shop they changed the 2nd coil but it didnt help. Since then we had it to 3 different shops and they cant find the problem. engine warning light is OFF, but the engine is hiccuping from 1000-2000 rpm. Lower and higher RPMs than that dont show any sign of problems. When the engine is cold its not hiccuping like when its hot. I also noticed that when is under high load when aceleratin, especialy when acelerating in hill, its hiccups all the time betwen 1000 and 2000 rpm. I also noticed if my tank is bellow half full, especialy 1/4 full, it will hiccup more. That didnt do before we didnt have problems.
So I took to a car shop, they connected it to tester and it shown a problem in one of two valves on engine. So the guy changed the front valve (he said there is another one in the back of machine and is hard to get to it), the machine was running good for half a day. By that I mean it was hiccuping only once in a while between 1000 and 2000, maybe twice in half a day. And than it started again to hiccup, but now is also a problem that when I drive on 4000rpm, the engine starts to decelerate, like its going into safe mode. Lucky for me I had obd2 connected to car and in time when on 4000rpm the engine started to decelerate even tough my leg was fully pressing the pedal, and the short term fuel trim was almoust +30%.
So I was doing some reading on internet and I found out that it could be many thing. But I would like to know if someone can tell me, by reading obd2 live data (posted down bellow), and all the signs that I told, where could be the problem because our car repair shops cant find the problems and Im miserable as f*** 

Ill post you here the links of screenshots and videos of the live data on obd2:
There are two videos:
- The first one is while driving. You will notice on 1:55 the short term fuel trim on bank 1 will get alot higher. Dont be mad because I scrolled screen up and down, I did that so I can fast notice (marked) all the times my engined starts to decelerate (1:55) or hiccup on 4000 rpm (12:55, 13:55, 14:15, 14:50,).  Link: 

 

- 2nd video is video of live obd2 data while is car cold and its getting hotter.  Link: 

 

- and few more photos. Not sure if it will help you with anything but I took screenshoot of it. If you want more photos of those reading let me know   
 

Id like to thank you again for any help!

[yqq]

Hi, 

I have a MITSUBISHI FB70 with me, it started on its own when parked in our company carpark without the keys and the reversing lights was on, afterwards we immediately went down to the vehicle to insert the key to switch off the engine. After switching off the engine with the key, we pulled out the key but the truck started on its own again. (the truck started on its own without the keys inserted) May we know why is this happening? 

Will really appreciate your advise in this area. 

Many thanks.  

[wolflucifer]

Hello everyone, I own a 2006 Imprezza 2.0R.

Problems started a couple of months back when it got colder and i started getting CEL with code P0030. I figured since the sensor is bad it just doesnt heat up fast enough due to cold and it will stop when the weather gets little warmer. I cleared the code and everything was fine. Noticed a slight fuel consumption increase but didint think too much about it since i wasnt really a economy type driver :D Then i started to get really rough engine operation jerking etc. Hooked up OBD to see that my engine is running very rich (Long Term Fuel trim was -30%). Cleaned air intake valve from the carbon that was built up cleated the MAF sensor as well the problems seemed better. Now I started gettign the same error and the engine has a really hard time working specially cold and at the start of accelleration (Starting from top when I press the pedal i need to wait 2 good seconds for the engine to start increasing the RPM, as if its choking from too much fuel or something). Again i have the same P0030 code.  This is the graph of A/F ratio vs engine load.Not to sure but to me this looks very bad knowing that it ratio should be 14 and it goes to 12 when on load and you can even see the engine "jerk" in the green line. I got suggested to change the so called lambda sensor but i am not quite sure how its called in english and if its the same sensor the CEL gives me. Would like some help how to solve this. I can provide some more graphs if needed to diagnose the fault more accurately

[yauzz]

Pleasee help..Nissan almera

My nissan almera is delay on shift and loss of power，There are few code u0155，u0140，u0300，p062f，p1701，u1000，p0863，p0720，p0717，p0744，p1744，p0706，p0705，u0073，p17B1，p17B0，p0963，p0962，p0740，p0743，p0713，p17A0，p0974，p0973，p17AB，P17AA，P17Ae，P17AD，p0734，p17A1，p17a2，p17a3，p17a4，p17a0，p0974，p1736，p1735，p0731

[Varero]

My car electric passenger seat is faulty. When I select the memorised positions, it does not move. When I push the forward/backward, up & down button, it also doesn't move. What could be the problem? Where to get it fixed? Expensive to fix?

[Saaqeufse]

Guofarmaccumulatedwealth,theantslost all theirmoney

Guo Wengui is under the false banner of " anti-communist ", but he actually cheated money! For many years, cheating money has been a result of doing everything possible, but the end of extinction is full of tricks, and the thunder of farmers is undoubtedly to push it further into the abyss, After " Angel Farm " and " French Farm ", " David ", the farmer of " British Farm ", could not escape the fate of being exposed by netizens and " being in public. " Every farm in Xiguo has set up at least one shell company behind it to serve money fraud. Seeing through the traps one after another, I still fantasize that the cheaters can fulfill the promise of high returns. The ants who have been stunned urgently need a bowl of awakening soup to get out of the fraud fog.