Wheels hitting fender

[Skymax]

For the hella flush look you need to do your homework. Wait till you see the hella flush gang. Crazy offset!

I actually also eyeing one IKR et30 maybe got problem, so end up with another desifn at et35.

Some of my ride make even go to et20. Hellaflush!

[Stratovarius]

Matching rim offset and tyre profile is a form of art esp you want that flush look. My current rims with 195 profile tyres is perfect, but when i changed to 205 tyres, one of the rear side will rub the fender edge. I'm looking at new rims with less offset so as to compensate the wider tyres.A good excuse to change rims!

Edited November 6, 2013 by Stratovarius

[Kurty]

well, problem already solved..

 

just change to a thinner profile, no problem..full load also never hit..

but i must say, profile 50 is definitely nicer

 

offset still at 28

[Detach8]

I hardly respond in MCF but I thought I should comment on this one, as this is a very common mistake and I see it on almost every car that has aftermarket/upsized wheels.

 

Many people do rim/tyre upsizing for asthetics but do not understand the effects they have on their car handling. They THINK they are improving the car handling, but they are really not.

 

With wider tyres and changed offsets, the entire vehicle suspension geometry changes and handling can be (and is almost always if done cheaply) affected negatively.

 

Sure, wider tyres give more grip. But if most people actually buy proper tyres at stock wheel sizes their car should have more than sufficient grip than upsizing 20-30mm wider with cheaper tyres.

 

Then, the usual theory goes... wider track and lower car = better handling? Not entirely correct.

 

 

Here's why.

 

1. When RIMS go further outboard, the load on the suspension increases (leaver effect). The shock absorbers will have to take on more load and as a result the suspension becomes softer. To compensate, stiffer shocks and springs are needed. But wait, don't go change to coilovers yet. Read on...

 

2. When changing LOWERING SPRINGS without matching shocks, your car will have a terribly bouncy ride and you will wear your shocks prematurely. Shock absorbers are designed to work within a nominal ride height and lowering your ride causes it to work outside of its designed parameters. I will totally NOT recommend spring stiffeners for your safety.

 

3. Wrong rim offsets together with lowered springs and stock shocks will totally cause rubbing against fenders as seen here because the result is:

a) Wheel sitting outside the fender

b) Shocks unable to carry extra load over humps and bumps

c) Wheels are larger than vehicle manufacturer has intended/designed

 

And when you go to a tyre shop, they will tell you to get lower profile tyres, or sometimes narrower tyres resulting in a stretched sidewall. When you do that, your speedometer, odometer and fuel economy changes.

 

Finally, your suspension geometry is completely messed up.

 

4. Most people do not understand the relation between roll center, instant center and CG. When lowering springs are used, the CG may be lowered but the roll center and instatenaous center actually becomes fruther from the CG, creating a leaver effect making the car roll more even though it is closer to the ground. Some badly lowered cars will actually FLIP OVER in an aggressive corner.

 

5. When wider wheels are used the SCRUB RADIUS is reduced (for FWD McPherson strut vehicles with -ve scrub), altering steering feel and this is usually mistaken for better handling.

 

6. Also when lowering cars, the camber angle for wheel changes, causing premature wear to tyres and affecting how the vehicle's understeer/oversteer character especially for some FWD cars with torsion beam design in the rear, the cambers do not change at the back but changes in front when lowered.

 

 

To really lower your car and have a wider track, there are alot of modifications required and mostly requires a complete overhaul of the suspension components. For most B&B cars, this is just not an option.

 

Like I say, sometimes stock is really the best. Go drive the stock car again (with good tyres please) after you have driven your wider and lowered wheels for some time. Drive over humps, bumps and go at an angle across them. You will be plesantly surprised.

 

All my cars run stock wheels except for a 2nd hand Subaru Impreza that I bought came with aftermarket wheels.

 

My 2 cents.

 

Cheers.

Edited November 6, 2013 by Detach8

[Throttle2]

Yeah, good point..

 

But due to the dire situation, I have to find quick remedy..

This morning while in port Dickson, I went to panel beating, hoping to roll the fender but too bad, It's already rolled.. and don't helps..

 

I also tried to install spring cushion but don't help much..

 

End up, I buy new tires. Now 215/45/17, now front 1 finger.

Rear 4 fingers.

 

No problem even at high speed

Haha, when ifirst read your starting post, i wanted to tell you that, your only true solution is to swap to correct tyres. Looks like you already found thesolution. Heh

[Kurty]

Yeah... I know the problem and quick solution.. Well, the profile 50 is really swee.. leaving little/no gap between the wheels and fenders..

[Throttle2]

Yeah... I know the problem and quick solution.. Well, the profile 50 is really swee.. leaving little/no gap between the wheels and fenders..

How can sidewall 50 be swee, so high and pui pui.....hheeehheehhehhe.

[Pisces69]

I hardly respond in MCF but I thought I should comment on this one, as this is a very common mistake and I see it on almost every car that has aftermarket/upsized wheels.

 

Many people do rim/tyre upsizing for asthetics but do not understand the effects they have on their car handling. They THINK they are improving the car handling, but they are really not.

 

With wider tyres and changed offsets, the entire vehicle suspension geometry changes and handling can be (and is almost always if done cheaply) affected negatively.

 

Sure, wider tyres give more grip. But if most people actually buy proper tyres at stock wheel sizes their car should have more than sufficient grip than upsizing 20-30mm wider with cheaper tyres.

 

Then, the usual theory goes... wider track and lower car = better handling? Not entirely correct.

 

 

Here's why.

 

1. When RIMS go further outboard, the load on the suspension increases (leaver effect). The shock absorbers will have to take on more load and as a result the suspension becomes softer. To compensate, stiffer shocks and springs are needed. But wait, don't go change to coilovers yet. Read on...

 

2. When changing LOWERING SPRINGS without matching shocks, your car will have a terribly bouncy ride and you will wear your shocks prematurely. Shock absorbers are designed to work within a nominal ride height and lowering your ride causes it to work outside of its designed parameters. I will totally NOT recommend spring stiffeners for your safety.

 

3. Wrong rim offsets together with lowered springs and stock shocks will totally cause rubbing against fenders as seen here because the result is:

a) Wheel sitting outside the fender

b) Shocks unable to carry extra load over humps and bumps

c) Wheels are larger than vehicle manufacturer has intended/designed

 

And when you go to a tyre shop, they will tell you to get lower profile tyres, or sometimes narrower tyres resulting in a stretched sidewall. When you do that, your speedometer, odometer and fuel economy changes.

 

Finally, your suspension geometry is completely messed up.

 

4. Most people do not understand the relation between roll center, instant center and CG. When lowering springs are used, the CG may be lowered but the roll center and instatenaous center actually becomes fruther from the CG, creating a leaver effect making the car roll more even though it is closer to the ground. Some badly lowered cars will actually FLIP OVER in an aggressive corner.

 

5. When wider wheels are used the SCRUB RADIUS is reduced (for FWD McPherson strut vehicles with -ve scrub), altering steering feel and this is usually mistaken for better handling.

 

6. Also when lowering cars, the camber angle for wheel changes, causing premature wear to tyres and affecting how the vehicle's understeer/oversteer character especially for some FWD cars with torsion beam design in the rear, the cambers do not change at the back but changes in front when lowered.

 

 

To really lower your car and have a wider track, there are alot of modifications required and mostly requires a complete overhaul of the suspension components. For most B&B cars, this is just not an option.

 

Like I say, sometimes stock is really the best. Go drive the stock car again (with good tyres please) after you have driven your wider and lowered wheels for some time. Drive over humps, bumps and go at an angle across them. You will be plesantly surprised.

 

All my cars run stock wheels except for a 2nd hand Subaru Impreza that I bought came with aftermarket wheels.

 

My 2 cents.

 

Cheers.

 

U have a comprehensive knowledge of a cars suspension set-up.

 

I fully agree with all what u hv said. Thats why I Praised u 5 points.

 

U sud submit more of yr comments here. We need more like u to educate the many pple who like to mod but dun know the engineering aspects of what ty r doing when modding their cars.

[Detach8]

 

U have a comprehensive knowledge of a cars suspension set-up.

 

I fully agree with all what u hv said. Thats why I Praised u 5 points.

 

U sud submit more of yr comments here. We need more like u to educate the many pple who like to mod but dun know the engineering aspects of what ty r doing when modding their cars.

 

Thanks bro. I'm still learning from my shifus. I'm taking my stock car to the track and learning as I go along. I want to make sure I get my driving skills right so I always get the same timing around the track then I'll start fiddling with my suspension/wheels. From there I will be able to tell what is good and what is bad.

 

I'm just very sad that the government decided to drop the Changi Motorsports hub. Having to drive up to Sepang to test a suspension mod is really a pain in the ass.

Edited December 5, 2013 by Detach8

[Pisces69]

 

Thanks bro. I'm still learning from my shifus. I'm taking my stock car to the track and learning as I go along. I want to make sure I get my driving skills right so I always get the same timing around the track then I'll start fiddling with my suspension/wheels. From there I will be able to tell what is good and what is bad.

 

I'm just very sad that the government decided to drop the Changi Motorsports hub. Having to drive up to Sepang to test a suspension mod is really a pain in the ass.

 

Well the cost might hv been too high n not enough profit fore those involved.

 

U can actually "test" yr cars suspension on our local roads but the time the "track" is open usually from 3am to 5am only. And never on weekends cos thats when the white ants wil b patrolling them.

 

Hahaha.

[JohnJubolovic77]

Hmm let me guess yours is exora cfe right?And your rims is definately 17x8.25 or 9.U

Sing 215/45-17 should be ok la...unless its 40 series and below.Got budget use adjustable better or roll fenders or else put cushion but rear look high..150 above sure swinging

[Karbonphyber]

 

Thanks bro. I'm still learning from my shifus. I'm taking my stock car to the track and learning as I go along. I want to make sure I get my driving skills right so I always get the same timing around the track then I'll start fiddling with my suspension/wheels. From there I will be able to tell what is good and what is bad.

 

I'm just very sad that the government decided to drop the Changi Motorsports hub. Having to drive up to Sepang to test a suspension mod is really a pain in the ass.

 

agree with what you say about getting driving skills right. it's a rarity, glad to see someone emphasizing on that!

 

i'm also sad that Changi was dropped however it wasn't going to be self-sustainable. as we all know with the singapore govt, not sustainable = cut. in hindsight, it could've been done better i guess.

 

hows the handling mods?

[Kurty]

yeah, i wanna learn about handling too.

 

i'm on front 3 point, front and rear Anti roll 12mm thick as stock.

 

somehow i still feel weak handling

[Karbonphyber]

yeah, i wanna learn about handling too.

 

i'm on front 3 point, front and rear Anti roll 12mm thick as stock.

 

somehow i still feel weak handling

 

3point ?

 

care to tell us more about your car in a different thread? may be distracting OP's post. hehe

[Thaiyotakamli]

 

Thanks bro. I'm still learning from my shifus. I'm taking my stock car to the track and learning as I go along. I want to make sure I get my driving skills right so I always get the same timing around the track then I'll start fiddling with my suspension/wheels. From there I will be able to tell what is good and what is bad.

 

I'm just very sad that the government decided to drop the Changi Motorsports hub. Having to drive up to Sepang to test a suspension mod is really a pain in the ass.

dont worry i heard peter lim building one in JB

[Jiangendi]

Hi, I also did something wrong. Lol. Driving fd2 08 model. Recently changed my rim to offset 30 and tire is 225/45 17". Changed my rear camber arm to SPC camber arm and adjusted the camber angle to 3 degree. But still, the tyre still rubs when there are passengers or load at the back. Not rubbing the fender but the bolt that lock the rear bumper to the fender. I am thinking of selling my tires and getting 215/40 tires. I need to make sure this will solve the problem. Advise please.

[Karbonphyber]

Hi, I also did something wrong. Lol. Driving fd2 08 model. Recently changed my rim to offset 30 and tire is 225/45 17". Changed my rear camber arm to SPC camber arm and adjusted the camber angle to 3 degree. But still, the tyre still rubs when there are passengers or load at the back. Not rubbing the fender but the bolt that lock the rear bumper to the fender. I am thinking of selling my tires and getting 215/40 tires. I need to make sure this will solve the problem. Advise please.

Reducing the profile will definitely improve it.

 

I don't get how it's rubbing that bolt. Need a better picture or a literal picture!. heheh

[Jiangendi]

Its hard to get a picture in that area. But i will try. Meanwhile, let me explain and see if you can picture it.

 

Before cambering, whole tire is outside of the body.

 

After cambering, only the top half of the tyre is inside the body. Bottom half is still outside.

 

By right, after cambering tire rubbing fender is not going to happen anymore even with three passenger at the back but there is this bolt that secure the rear bumper to the fender.

 

When car is lowered with the load, the bolt got closer to the tire, thus causing the tire to rub on the bolt when going upslope and uneven roads.

 

i found this picture, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/danxcore/Dis_zps0c099bbd.png