Jump to content

Which 2nd hand car dealer is good?


CamholicX
 Share

Recommended Posts

Neutral Newbie

Planning to get a 2nd Mazda 2.

 

But dunno which dealer to go for or avoid?

 

Anyone can advice

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mazda 2 is not common to begin with so if u definitely want to buy one, u will be at the 'mercy' of the car dealers.

 

But the reverse is also true. Dealers who have Mazda 2 would want to get rid of the car as it's not as popular. Take your time to go through the 6 levels of exciting wares. [drivingcar]

Link to post
Share on other sites

(edited)

Planning to get a 2nd Mazda 2.

 

But dunno which dealer to go for or avoid?

 

Anyone can advice

 

CaseTrust-STVA Accredited Business

#06-01 - Car Times Automobile Pte Ltd

#05-16 - Mayfair Motoring

#05-05 - Car Design Motor Pte Ltd

#03-19 - Good Year Automobile Pte Ltd

#03-05 - Yong Lee Seng Motor Pte Ltd

#02-19 - Jia Leong Trading Enterprise Pte Ltd

#01-06 - RTMT Motor Pte Ltd

#01-03/04 - Prime Cars Credit Pte Ltd

 

For more complete listing, visit http://www.case.org.sg/casetrust.plx?rm=results

 

Hope this helps!

Edited by Luvalive
Link to post
Share on other sites

very simple.

Test drive the car. If you like, offer a price and

 

Tell the dealer you will only pay for

1. The car price (you will need to pay for the 1st instalment if you are taking loan)

2. The transfer fee ($11)

3. The insurance

 

no admin fee

no GST

no processing fee

 

I am driving my 5th second hand car till date.

Link to post
Share on other sites

very simple.

Test drive the car. If you like, offer a price and

 

Tell the dealer you will only pay for

1. The car price (you will need to pay for the 1st instalment if you are taking loan)

2. The transfer fee ($11)

3. The insurance

 

no admin fee

no GST

no processing fee

 

I am driving my 5th second hand car till date.

 

 

This is good advice.

 

To add on, if you aren't very well-versed with mechanical parts of cars and not sure what to look for, bring a friend who knows or preferably ask your own mechanic to take some time to go car shopping with you. If this isn't possible, get the dealer to send the car for Vicom or AA inspection. This small fee is worth it for peace of mind and to save lots of money on repairs later. Many of the dealers will suggest STA instead, forget it as STA isn't that reliable, only giving the car a A, B, C etc grading and not describing the condition in detail.

Link to post
Share on other sites

CaseTrust-STVA Accredited Business

#06-01 - Car Times Automobile Pte Ltd

#05-16 - Mayfair Motoring

#05-05 - Car Design Motor Pte Ltd

#03-19 - Good Year Automobile Pte Ltd

#03-05 - Yong Lee Seng Motor Pte Ltd

#02-19 - Jia Leong Trading Enterprise Pte Ltd

#01-06 - RTMT Motor Pte Ltd

#01-03/04 - Prime Cars Credit Pte Ltd

 

For more complete listing, visit http://www.case.org.sg/casetrust.plx?rm=results

 

Hope this helps!

 

While the car dealer might be CaseTrust accredited, they can still do monkey business. Best is your own judgement.

 

very simple.

Test drive the car. If you like, offer a price and

 

Tell the dealer you will only pay for

1. The car price (you will need to pay for the 1st instalment if you are taking loan)

2. The transfer fee ($11)

3. The insurance

 

no admin fee

no GST

no processing fee

 

I am driving my 5th second hand car till date.

 

[thumbsup]

 

Best is get insurance quotes for yourself first, before going down. You can check sgcarmart for the car (year and colour), then get quote for your ownself. When you go down to the car dealer, make sure you do your research. Car A and B might be same price, same month, but OMV different, then you will get less PARF rebate if the OMV lower.

 

Don't let the dealer cheat you by just dealing on price. Deal on value, PARF rebate + COE (paper value) + your acceptable depre for the car. Some car price low, but PARF / OMV low, so even price lower than others, you still lose. Go sgcarmart can see those old Kia Rios or Accent get 6.5k depre per annum. At that range, can get MIJ cars.

 

As bro Cs3004 said, no admin fee, no any crap fee. If they say got, ask them what are the charge for. Usually they will stumble and say is to register the car and all. Ask them to eat dirt. Nego on the price first. Best if you have your own loan from bank, else the dealers will earn from there too, and you'll be paying extra interest.

 

Basically, own loan, own insurance, and own mechanic inspect.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

So basically should get car A, assuming both same car model

 

A. Coe 20k, omv 15k selling at 60k

B. Coe 10k, omv 11k selling at 55k

 

How much diff is the paper value

Link to post
Share on other sites

How to get own loan?

 

Simply submit your own loan application to the bank or finance company after getting the vehicle details (including COE, OMV etc.) from the dealer.

 

Take note that many dealers will not give much discount or might even attempt to charge "extra fees" if you take your own loan elsewhere or pay in cash. Same goes for sourcing for your own insurance. This is because they apparently earn commission if you take a loan and buy insurance through them. Once you've paid the deposit, it'll often be too late, or at least very troublesome, if they suddenly raise the price or charge "extra fees" for taking your own loan/insurance, so it is important to discuss all these details before committing, state them down specifically and have them sign it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Speaking from recent exp, without car loan the price would be marked up or limited room for nego. Own insurance is possible as the comm they get is small. Sending to own trusted mechanic is best. Veh inspection are profit centre and wld overlook small defects so as to help the dealer along (experienced it before).

 

End of day just know that car appearance is only skin deep until examined thoroughly and by yr judgement after test drive.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Simply submit your own loan application to the bank or finance company after getting the vehicle details (including COE, OMV etc.) from the dealer.

 

Take note that many dealers will not give much discount or might even attempt to charge "extra fees" if you take your own loan elsewhere or pay in cash. Same goes for sourcing for your own insurance. This is because they apparently earn commission if you take a loan and buy insurance through them. Once you've paid the deposit, it'll often be too late, or at least very troublesome, if they suddenly raise the price or charge "extra fees" for taking your own loan/insurance, so it is important to discuss all these details before committing, state them down specifically and have them sign it.

 

What Bicolor said about the loan.

 

Make sure you negotiate based on the price alone. Ignore other factors, negotiate based solely on price. Afterwards, make sure everything in writing, and the price there written is NETT.

 

They get commission from loan, from insurance, from basically everything that they sell to you.

 

In the sales agreement, make sure to state if that the car got problems (excluding wear and tear for older cars), that if the engine / gb faulty, you will get refunded.

 

Check out sgcarmart's entire selection first. Know what car you want, know the price for the model / age you're looking for, and which other dealers have similar car. Best if you bring iPad, so can check and show them in front of them. Else they bullcrap til the moon or Mars. Always be prepared to walk away.

 

Also, during test drive, just test everything. Brakes, steering, just don't crash. Rev til max if you like. Coz test drive is to hear the specific car everything. If you brake and it doesn't brake well, then something wrong already. (E-brake, but please, do it in a safe environment and not main roads.) This is the one time for you to test everything. If no mechanic, just bring to AA or Viacom. Make sure the cost is included in the car already. Usually, they will ask for deposit before inspection, so make note of the following: if Gearbox or Engine faulty, refund, if chassis show signs of welding or damage / collision, refund. Any more, you go think up yourself.

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...