Do NOT engine flush

[Meanmachine]

  On 7/25/2012 at 11:29 AM, Satrianeo_2012 said:

Actually, there is hardly a need to flush engine unless its very dirty. For me, I change my oil every 5000KM hence its always clean.

 

The safest way to flush an engine is to simply use mineral engine and run it for 500KM and change the oil (if you feel rich you can use synthetic oil).

 

 

KInda of agreed with you but izzit really safest or safe enough, any proven testimonial/s ?

[Kb27]

  On 2/6/2014 at 2:15 AM, Baal said:

In this case, which u think is a better idea. Based on 13k /yr mileage. ?

 

a) Use CL, change every 6 mths

b) Use Mobil1/Agip/Helix Ultra change once a yr

 

It's hard to say without knowing what's in those oil.

 

If I were to make a choice regarding engine cleaning, I'll probably stick with Mobil 1 and Pennzoil and change every year.

 

I've used mineral oil up to 10k and synthetic up to 15k.

Makes no difference to my diesel engine. No sludge, nothing, just black oil that needs to be replaced regularly.

 

But I'll try to stick with synthetic to not more than 15k.

 

Others may have different opinion.

[Baal]

http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?category=65

 

I noted that the CL range 5/40 & 5/30 at NTUC does not indicate its low SAPs like some of the other CL range at website. My guess is that those with low SAPs indication likely cost more, but not carried by NTUC. 5/30 carried here even indicates for cars that do now req a low ash oil. hmmm.

 

oh & strangely, the CL 5/50 I saw at NTUC is not in the above website.

Edited February 6, 2014 by Baal

[Picanto]

then don't use carlube if you skeptical. there are better oils on the market

  On 2/6/2014 at 5:16 AM, Baal said:

http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?category=65

 

I noted that the CL range 5/40 & 5/30 at NTUC does not indicate its low SAPs like some of the other CL range at website. My guess is that those with low SAPs indication likely cost more, but not carried by NTUC. 5/30 carried here even indicates for cars that do now req a low ash oil. hmmm.

 

oh & strangely, the CL 5/50 I saw at NTUC is not in the above website.

 

[Earthboy]

  On 2/6/2014 at 2:15 AM, Baal said:

In this case, which u think is a better idea. Based on 13k /yr mileage. ?

 

a) Use CL, change every 6 mths

b) Use Mobil1/Agip/Helix Ultra change once a yr

Bro, what car are you driving? your mileage is not high but imo, you still need to change EO at least every 6 months. mine is around 15-16k per year and i do half yearly, just did it today at BM (8000km) and can really feel the diff. they are using castrol edge btw.

  On 2/6/2014 at 4:34 AM, Meanmachine said:

 

 

KInda of agreed with you but izzit really safest or safe enough, any proven testimonial/s ?

you think that changing EO more often is more risky than flushing engine?

[Tigershark1976]

  On 7/23/2012 at 3:16 PM, 5936 said:

If you care to take time to hunt for engine flush, there are some, maybe harder to find now, engine flush that needs to be added-in and driven for 200-300miles, before going for oil change.

Its becoming harder to find this type of engine flush.

 

Have, get MMO, Marvel Mystery Oil.... its gasoline additive and its also use for long term flushing like u mentioned... heard its gentle to carbon n sludge but Ive never tried b4. Cant really comment..

[Seabreeze]

Hi, is the decarbonising safe? like the many ads that I saw recently, they will attach a can of liquid to your engine? then rev n rev........ intending to try it for my old car and see if it improves FC, but wondering issit really safe?

[Heartbreakid]

  On 5/13/2014 at 5:21 PM, Seabreeze said:

Hi, is the decarbonising safe? like the many ads that I saw recently, they will attach a can of liquid to your engine? then rev n rev........ intending to try it for my old car and see if it improves FC, but wondering issit really safe?

 

It should be safe since it uses hydrogen gases to knock out carbon within the engine chamber. It's definitely safer than engine flush.

[Watwheels]

  On 5/13/2014 at 5:21 PM, Seabreeze said:

Hi, is the decarbonising safe? like the many ads that I saw recently, they will attach a can of liquid to your engine? then rev n rev........ intending to try it for my old car and see if it improves FC, but wondering issit really safe?

 

Good question. Haha...

 

But if your engine is not suffering from knocking or pre-ignition detonation I think there's no need for such measures. Actually using fuel system cleaner is good enough and it's inexpensive. Just before you go for an oil change, use the fuel system cleaner, do some enthusiastic driving to clear out the carbon build up if any. Regular servicing & change of spark plugs will help your car maintain the fc. If your car is not known for carbon or sludge build ups there's no need for such fanciful treatment.

[Kangadrool]

Since most people change car here so frequently and most will not drive a car for more than 10 years, why bother?

[Seabreeze]

  On 5/14/2014 at 1:10 AM, Watwheels said:

 

Good question. Haha...

 

But if your engine is not suffering from knocking or pre-ignition detonation I think there's no need for such measures. Actually using fuel system cleaner is good enough and it's inexpensive. Just before you go for an oil change, use the fuel system cleaner, do some enthusiastic driving to clear out the carbon build up if any. Regular servicing & change of spark plugs will help your car maintain the fc. If your car is not known for carbon or sludge build ups there's no need for such fanciful treatment.

thanks for the clarifications, e FC is getting bad despite regularly serviced so deciding to try out the hydrogen thingy for once n will update on how good it is after 2 full tanks..

[FourZero]

  On 4/1/2013 at 8:22 AM, Yewheng said:

Ok, Engine flush is using a chemical that can clean engine but at same time can also clean off seals that causes leakage. Excessive dirty particles that is inside engine oil if use engine flush may cause the dirt particles to get stuck at joint opening. Think of it this way, the slump is at the side of the pipe, if using chemical to remove the slump, the slump yes will come out but where else can the slump run to?? End up it get stuck somewhere further and accumulate a lot that can choke the pipe. ( In layman term ) .

 

Fuel injector + system cleaner is a liquid that is poured to petrol tank that clean up fuel system. But than again it is quite useless as everytime top up petrol finish will close back and as long as got constantly top up petrol, there is no issue here of tank being rusty, dirty etc.

 

Mineral oil is a cheaper oil as compared to syntactic oil and will lose it effectiveness at 5000 km. And people recommend using mineral oil to run for a few hundred km than go back drain off the mineral oil and top up with syntactic oil according to one preference on which brand driver want to use is because by running for a few hundred km on clean oil, hopefully some dirt particles can come out drain off together with the mineral oil when doing oil change after running few hundred km and thus clean the engine.

 

If you regularly go for servicing there is no need to be so ma fan, just go with the normal servicing package can already. http://www.mycarforum.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/laugh.gif http://www.mycarforum.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/laugh.gif

Hi Mate, totally agree with your sharing. Just look at those US car show, never on e I see them do any engine flush to a old car but just change oil n vroooom it starts and they sell Liao. :-)

[Pisces69]

  On 5/14/2014 at 2:30 PM, Seabreeze said:

thanks for the clarifications, e FC is getting bad despite regularly serviced so deciding to try out the hydrogen thingy for once n will update on how good it is after 2 full tanks..

 

 

There r several reasons for poor FC.

 

U can try: Change air filter n plugs. Regular service oil n filter. Check 4 wheel alignment. Pump tires to correct pressure. Check brakes not binding.

 

What else. I can only think of these now.

 

Also remember to ensure workshop uses all the correct parts like plugs n filters n oil.

[Pisces69]

  On 5/23/2014 at 2:24 PM, FourZero said:

Hi Mate, totally agree with your sharing. Just look at those US car show, never on e I see them do any engine flush to a old car but just change oil n vroooom it starts and they sell Liao. :-)

 

 

Actually I did see recently on Top or Fifth gear where they got the best power boost from a petrol additive that cleans the fuel system n injectors.

 

If yr car is old n u usually drive slow then a bottle of Fuel System Cleaner might help give back some pep to your car.

[Volvobrick]

Engine flush seems suspiciously like colon cleansing....

 

Do it incorrectly you will end up a hole in the sidewall!

 

I won't do it!

 

 

[Tohto]

  On 5/14/2014 at 1:14 AM, Kangadrool said:

Since most people change car here so frequently and most will not drive a car for more than 10 years, why bother?

This is not true now. Many car on the road now are between 7-9 year old.

My car is 8yrs old in 2 month time.

[Entity]

In the US and Europe where workshops recommend engine oil flushing, owners run their cars to very high mileage due to the long distances they travel and long term ownership of their vehicles (no COE). So a car can have 300-400k of mileage or be 20 years old with significant sludge buildup, and may need stronger cleaning solvents than a normal oil change can provide.

 

Modern cars in Singapore are mostly less than 10 years old. Regular oil and filter changes should see the car to the end of its (COE) lifetime.

[FourZero]

  On 5/24/2014 at 2:08 AM, Entity said:

In the US and Europe where workshops recommend engine oil flushing, owners run their cars to very high mileage due to the long distances they travel and long term ownership of their vehicles (no COE). So a car can have 300-400k of mileage or be 20 years old with significant sludge buildup, and may need stronger cleaning solvents than a normal oil change can provide.

 

Modern cars in Singapore are mostly less than 10 years old. Regular oil and filter changes should see the car to the end of its (COE) lifetime.

Well explained, cheers :-)