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Blackvue users - please come in AGAIN 2


RadX
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Maybe u can try putting a new button battery and metal tab back. I believe can solder the metal tab back one.

 

Latest latest update:

 

The new 3.7V li-po I bought in SLT also kaput liao and I went back to get a bigger capacity one (higher amp) upon recommendation by the nice shopkeeper to replace it but the BV ended up being hang [furious] [furious]

 

Bo bianz ripped out the new replacement and just let it be.

 

And it still works!!

 

So my BV is without both the button & li-po batteries now though it must be powered 24/7 now in order to be current with regard to date and time.

 

With my rudimentary rigging to the source earlier this is no issue as I do not leave my ride idle for days and my daily 45min trip to my work place should be able to charge the car batt adequately.

 

Will update you if got any interesting happening.

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Latest latest update:

 

The new 3.7V li-po I bought in SLT also kaput liao and I went back to get a bigger capacity one (higher amp) upon recommendation by the nice shopkeeper to replace it but the BV ended up being hang [furious] [furious]

 

Bo bianz ripped out the new replacement and just let it be.

 

And it still works!!

 

So my BV is without both the button & li-po batteries now though it must be powered 24/7 now in order to be current with regard to date and time.

 

With my rudimentary rigging to the source earlier this is no issue as I do not leave my ride idle for days and my daily 45min trip to my work place should be able to charge the car batt adequately.

 

Will update you if got any interesting happening.

 

Maybe u should try higher discharge rates lipo instead. I dont understand why the lipo failed in such a short time.

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Maybe u should try higher discharge rates lipo instead. I dont understand why the lipo failed in such a short time.

 

Not eletrically trained so I also catch no ball.

 

Anywaz it also bloated machiam like a gold fish similar to the stock batt so I took it out to replace with the new 3.7V 200mAH batt.

 

The BV LED just lighted up but did not work.

 

Even after I took out the power cable the light was still on, presumbly getting its power from the 200mAh batt.

 

So now my BV is supposedly cooler without the li-po batt [laugh] [laugh]

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Not eletrically trained so I also catch no ball.

 

Anywaz it also bloated machiam like a gold fish similar to the stock batt so I took it out to replace with the new 3.7V 200mAH batt.

 

The BV LED just lighted up but did not work.

 

Even after I took out the power cable the light was still on, presumbly getting its power from the 200mAh batt.

 

So now my BV is supposedly cooler without the li-po batt [laugh] [laugh]

 

Lipo bloated means gone liao. Maybe the lipo u initially got was under spec. Lipo are rated for their discharge rates, the higher they are, they will be able to hold their charge/voltage better. They use C to represent the discharge rate.

 

Normal lipo will be 1C = 1 times the capacity of the lipo. Example :

 

If your lipo is rated at 1C, 200mA, this means it is rated for 1 x 200mA = able to discharge at 200mA.

 

If your lipo is rated at 3C, 200mA, this means it is rated for 3 x 200mA = able to discharge at 600mA. It will hold the voltage long before depleting.

 

For my r/c use, they are rated at 20C, 30C, 40C and currently 60C. I am using the 60C ones. Higher C = more $$$.

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Lipo bloated means gone liao. Maybe the lipo u initially got was under spec. Lipo are rated for their discharge rates, the higher they are, they will be able to hold their charge/voltage better. They use C to represent the discharge rate.

 

Normal lipo will be 1C = 1 times the capacity of the lipo. Example :

 

If your lipo is rated at 1C, 200mA, this means it is rated for 1 x 200mA = able to discharge at 200mA.

 

If your lipo is rated at 3C, 200mA, this means it is rated for 3 x 200mA = able to discharge at 600mA. It will hold the voltage long before depleting.

 

For my r/c use, they are rated at 20C, 30C, 40C and currently 60C. I am using the 60C ones. Higher C = more $$$.

 

OIC.

 

Our stock BV li-po batt is rated at 170mAh IIRC and so it means the 200mAh one should be ok right?

 

One other thing.

 

The function of this li-po seems to be just for powering the BV to shut down properly thereby saving the last file from my observation and since I now power it 24/7 it need not be replaced I think.

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OIC.

 

Our stock BV li-po batt is rated at 170mAh IIRC and so it means the 200mAh one should be ok right?

 

One other thing.

 

The function of this li-po seems to be just for powering the BV to shut down properly thereby saving the last file from my observation and since I now power it 24/7 it need not be replaced I think.

 

Yes.

 

If u look at the new DR500GW-HD, they no longer use lipo batteries. They use capacitors instead. [idea] No lipo battery problem liao. [thumbsup]

 

DR500GW-HD-WiFi-Internal-1.jpg

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Yes.

 

If u look at the new DR500GW-HD, they no longer use lipo batteries. They use capacitors instead. [idea] No lipo battery problem liao. [thumbsup]

 

Wow yours?

 

Will the capacitor emits as much heat as normal li-po batt?

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Wow yours?

 

Will the capacitor emits as much heat as normal li-po batt?

 

Not mine lah. From Dash Cam talk.

 

But I nearly clicked to buy it over the weekend. Only 28 red notes. But I thinking, buy then install where. [laugh] Already three car cam operating.

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Not mine lah. From Dash Cam talk.

 

But I nearly clicked to buy it over the weekend. Only 28 red notes. But I thinking, buy then install where. [laugh] Already three car cam operating.

 

28 red notes only?

 

Much cheaper than the 31 nos. I paid for the DRG400HD II.

 

Tempted liao but still eyeing the ITB100HD leh...

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Neutral Newbie

Ya. Look here : http://list.qoo10.sg/item/PITTASOFT-BLACKV...WI-FI/409183078

 

And still have options to purchase power magic or T-power.

 

Looking at this as well.. I currently have DR350 set up with the basic Power Magic. IF i buy this, likely will shift DR350 to rear.. Question is.. can my basic power magic do its job connected to these 2 cameras together?

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Am still 2 minds about getting this with Korean firmware for the simple fact that I may not know how to set it up properly.

 

Any other issue besides the Korean 'starting up' and 'powering down' voice recordings which is worth to note.

 

Thanks bro

 

If can wait a little longer.

 

New products normally got some issues.

 

Prime example is the BV DRG400 Season I with its infamous heat issue.

 

Thought Season II version will be improved but... [shakehead] [shakehead]

 

 

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Looking at this as well.. I currently have DR350 set up with the basic Power Magic. IF i buy this, likely will shift DR350 to rear.. Question is.. can my basic power magic do its job connected to these 2 cameras together?

 

Don't think so.

 

It is for a primary DVR only IMHO.

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If can wait a little longer.

 

New products normally got some issues.

 

Prime example is the BV DRG400 Season I with its infamous heat issue.

 

Thought Season II version will be improved but... [shakehead] [shakehead]

 

You are right bro Vulcann, early signs always look encouraging. Time will tell.

 

Thanks [thumbsup]

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You are right bro Vulcann, early signs always look encouraging. Time will tell.

 

Thanks [thumbsup]

 

Seems many bros swear by ITB100HD (go read the thread: http://www.mycarforum.com/index.php?showtopic=2683426 ) so do some research first if you can afford to wait, especially if you already have a DVR.

 

Bro Adrianli is actually the man to check with if you need help.

 

He is our consultant guru here [thumbsup][nod]

 

 

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