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Blackvue users - please come in AGAIN 2

RadX

By RadX,
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Adrianli

Adrianli

Hypersonic

Great info bro! Thanks for sharing. Reason y I ask batt is becos the t-power seems quite expensive. Wanted to have 2 batteries. Might be costly if get 2 tpower.

 

The unique feature of Tpower is its ability to recharge the battery while driving thru the cig plug.

 

But, ya, my two 8000mah 3cell lithium batteries are much cheap than one Tpower.

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Mingsect

Mingsect

5th Gear

found out the blurred lens are cause by heat and condescension in the lens

my friend diy and cleaned out the lens and managed to save the unit,, (out of warranty)

 

 

and we remove the cover and added some heatsink

 

it does bring dow the operating temperature by abt 10 degree..

no doubt there is no fan attached to it..

 

 

post-7848-1363846329_thumb.jpg

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Vulcann

Vulcann

6th Gear

found out the blurred lens are cause by heat and condescension in the lens

my friend diy and cleaned out the lens and managed to save the unit,, (out of warranty)

 

and we remove the cover and added some heatsink

 

it does bring dow the operating temperature by abt 10 degree..

no doubt there is no fan attached to it..

 

Same issue for my BV when the image was blurry, I took it apart and cleaned the lens afterwhich the video footages becomes clear again.

 

Problem is with the heat sink attached as shown, the lens will get dirty again due to the insides being exposed. The ang mos also recommended this heat sink solution : http://forums.redflagdeals.com/merged-offi...6/#post16037605

 

As such regular maintenance needs to be done for the videos to be sharp.

 

That aside I guess the heat sink config seems to be the answer to the heat build-up for the 400 & 400 Season II.

 

BTW will your unit morph machiam like the one below not:

 

2ae5a1ee7b_32306922_o2.jpg

(Source: http://pureflix.com/cache/transformers-devastator-tank )

 

[laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

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I_RIDE_DEEP

I_RIDE_DEEP

2nd Gear

Same issue for my BV when the image was blurry, I took it apart and cleaned the lens afterwhich the video footages becomes clear again.

 

Problem is with the heat sink attached as shown, the lens will get dirty again due to the insides being exposed. The ang mos also recommended this heat sink solution : http://forums.redflagdeals.com/merged-offi...6/#post16037605

 

 

Just a quick question, is the dismantling of the unit as simple as using screw drivers? If so, i want to clean the lens too.

 

Tks.

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Tarquin

Tarquin

1st Gear

Attaching a heatsink per se is not complete...as packages are assembled heatsink attached needs a thermal agent either a grease/gelease to dissipate the heat from the die/package towards the heatsink..so by attaching the heatsink with household glue to bond is not complete thus it may not completely function as needed...

 

found out the blurred lens are cause by heat and condescension in the lens

my friend diy and cleaned out the lens and managed to save the unit,, (out of warranty)

 

 

and we remove the cover and added some heatsink

 

it does bring dow the operating temperature by abt 10 degree..

no doubt there is no fan attached to it..

 

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Vulcann

Vulcann

6th Gear

Just a quick question, is the dismantling of the unit as simple as using screw drivers? If so, i want to clean the lens too.

 

Tks.

 

Not that straightforward actually.

 

First, warranty issue.

 

Next you have to remove the rubber inserts covering the screw holes. Took me a while to take them out and in the process scratched some parts of the chassis.

 

Removal of the 4 screws for the chassis need a small screwdriver, the mini type for spectacles.

 

After that it is quite easy liao. The lens is fastened to the base by two screws (same size as for the chassis ones) and unscrewing them will free the lens for cleaning.

 

Use clean cloth dipped in alcohol solution or water to wipe the lens surface then use a dry clean cloth to finish up.

 

That is it after re-assembling the set again.

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I_RIDE_DEEP

I_RIDE_DEEP

2nd Gear
(edited)

Not that straightforward actually.

 

First, warranty issue.

 

Next you have to remove the rubber inserts covering the screw holes. Took me a while to take them out and in the process scratched some parts of the chassis.

 

Removal of the 4 screws for the chassis need a small screwdriver, the mini type for spectacles.

 

After that it is quite easy liao. The lens is fastened to the base by two screws (same size as for the chassis ones) and unscrewing them will free the lens for cleaning.

 

Use clean cloth dipped in alcohol solution or water to wipe the lens surface then use a dry clean cloth to finish up.

 

That is it after re-assembling the set again.

 

Tks bro. Will do as indicated ( since my season 2 unit is out of warranty).

 

I was also contemplating to seal the gap around the lens with masking tape (after cleaning of course) to prevent further dust from going in but am not sure if this will be a fire hazard?

Edited by I_RIDE_DEEP
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Vulcann

Vulcann

6th Gear

Tks bro. Will do as indicated ( since my season 2 unit is out of warranty).

 

I was also contemplating to seal the gap around the lens with masking tape (after cleaning of course) to prevent further dust from going in but am not sure if this will be a fire hazard?

 

Actually the mounting with the two screws securing the lens is quite tightly secured so not sure why dust still can seep in.

 

Anywaz insulating tape is much better for this purpose rather than paper masking tape. There is however no much space for you to fit any tape inside the tight space though.

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Vulcann

Vulcann

6th Gear

Actually the mounting with the two screws securing the lens is quite tightly secured so not sure why dust still can seep in.

 

Anywaz insulating tape is much better for this purpose rather than paper masking tape. There is however no much space for you to fit any tape inside the tight space though.

 

See the challenging tight space around the lens shown in the photo as posted by bro Adrianli:

 

http://www.mycarforum.com/index.php?showto...t&p=4771851

 

 

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I_RIDE_DEEP

I_RIDE_DEEP

2nd Gear

Tks bro.

 

Just cleaned my lenses with a moist cotton bud and vision is much better and halo effect less pronounced.

 

On a related matter, I wasnt very technical so I tot better not clean the CMOS sensor underneath the lens since none of you mentioned cleaning it. Is it ok to clean this?

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Vulcann

Vulcann

6th Gear

Tks bro.

 

Just cleaned my lenses with a moist cotton bud and vision is much better and halo effect less pronounced.

 

On a related matter, I wasnt very technical so I tot better not clean the CMOS sensor underneath the lens since none of you mentioned cleaning it. Is it ok to clean this?

 

Same dilemma as you when I saw that thin film thingy but just say heck & cleaned it anywaz.

 

Working fine till this day & footages still crystal clear [wave] [wave]

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I_RIDE_DEEP

I_RIDE_DEEP

2nd Gear

Same dilemma as you when I saw that thin film thingy but just say heck & cleaned it anywaz.

 

Working fine till this day & footages still crystal clear [wave] [wave]

 

**Like!**

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Sweat100

Sweat100

Neutral Newbie

After reading up all the overheating issues due to a fundamental design flaw, I just took the plunge and opened up the 1 week old blackvue. I read some forums and saw some people added just one heat sink to the chip on the most left hand side, it does not look complete as the processor is not there. That seems to be the ram chip. If you look at the picture below, the processor (Texas Instruments) is the chip in the middle. This is the most crucial chip to keep cool.

 

IMG_1894_zps1efc5bc8.jpg

 

My method of improvising is as follows:

 

1. Remove the chassis and take out the metal plate heat sink. Purchased some heat sinks from sim lim tower and cut them to size. Use thermal epoxy to stick the heat sinks onto the chips. The last chip on the right faces some problem with the clearance, thus I used half of the original metal plate heatsink, applied some thermal compound on the chip. On top of the metal plate, I added another smaller heat sink, just enough for the clearance into the cylindrical casing when slotted in.

IMG_1897_zpsda918192.jpg

 

2. Mark out the part of the back case to be sawn off. I used a wooden saw to saw off the marked parts.

IMG_1896_zps841cf987.jpg

 

3. Ground the heat sink using the wire mesh tape (from one of the metal plate heat sinks during removal). See the dark grey lines in between the slots of the heat sink. Attach the back casing. The speaker is unable to hide in between the casing due to the size of the heat sink. I stuck it in the middle of the two heat sinks.

IMG_1898_zps74410664.jpg

 

4. Optional: Drill some holes in the casing as air vents. Got the idea when I saw DR500 design.

IMG_1900_zps4efbda8a.jpg

 

Hope these help for those who wish to DIY.

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WTF

WTF

4th Gear
(edited)

Really good DIY.......but the cam is not cheap and yet need to DIY so much........is there a comparable if not better cam around at that price??? [sweatdrop]

Edited by WTF
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