New brake pads run in

[Mllcg]

just changed brake pads today.

 

workshop told me i needed to run in. but not sure how to do it.

 

anyone can teach?

[MacDuck]

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/...rake-pad-bed-in

[Mllcg]

i dun understand. too much jargon. lol

 

any simpler ones?

[Opel17]

I read on the new brake pad packing box years ago.

To help new brake pads "run-in", no sudden and heavy braking for the 1st 5K km.

[Tuna_seng]

  On 3/9/2012 at 4:55 PM, Opel17 said:

I read on the new brake pad packing box years ago.

To help new brake pads "run-in", no sudden and heavy braking for the 1st 5K km.

 

5,000 km????

 

Then those bros who go tracking, need to change new brake gear before going up, how?

[Mllcg]

  On 3/9/2012 at 5:04 PM, Tuna_seng said:

5,000 km????

 

Then those bros who go tracking, need to change new brake gear before going up, how?

 

yeah.

 

so how?

[Kr_toy]

those race pads need very short bed-in, so they can just do it during warming laps

[Good-Carbuyer]

  On 3/9/2012 at 4:20 PM, Mllcg said:

just changed brake pads today.

 

workshop told me i needed to run in. but not sure how to do it.

 

anyone can teach?

Can ask them explain what is it?

Can ask them how to do it?

First time I heard of workshop tell customer such news

I owned cars: Continetal, Japanese, Korean, none required such run in?

[ER-3682]

  On 3/9/2012 at 4:20 PM, Mllcg said:

just changed brake pads today.

 

workshop told me i needed to run in. but not sure how to do it.

 

anyone can teach?

Just drive normally will do,actually 'run-in' means it need to get full contact with the brake disc,always remember most used brake disc is uneven,it need to 'season' the new pads to the old brake disc.

[Jman888]

  On 3/9/2012 at 4:20 PM, Mllcg said:

just changed brake pads today.

 

workshop told me i needed to run in. but not sure how to do it.

 

anyone can teach?

 

 

About 500km to run in, do not speed, sudden jam brake and over-estimate the braking distant, play slow and safe.

 

Scary experience recently when I just change the brake pad and it was on a super heavy rainy day, drove out of the workshop, the brake really feel like a sponge [sweatdrop]

[RadX]

For 300km, do gentle braking, no hard braking and the like. This means you ahve to anticipate earlier, and start putting your foot on teh brakes earlier/.

 

After the 300 or so, you do a hard brake to finally bed them in. Drive about 50km/h on a straiught road and jam brake! That should bed the brakes.

 

If you do it wiht cars on road, you will be in the hospital BED

[1fast1]

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

 

I've used that procedure before when I got race pads and needed to bed them in properly and quickly. You really need a nice long straight road to do it so drive SLOWLY and STEADILY without any serious brake application (use engine braking where possible) to that nice straight road with minimal traffic of your choice (mine is Harbour Drive). This is easier said than done with impatient Sg drivers who like to tailgate you even in the left lanes, but make sure you don't do any hard brakings before the bed-in (unless it's an emergency, of course) - you don't want to glaze the pads.

 

During the bed-in, the one MOST important thing to keep in mind is to make absolutely SURE you don't come to a dead stop - remember to keep the car rolling at around 15-20 km/h after each brake application. This is to ventilate (cool) the brakes and prevent glaze.

 

There are different protocols that vary slightly in details (like one that says you should increase the initial speed gradually from 50 km/hr to 100 km/hr during your ten or so runs), but the most important detail is the one I mentioned - DON'T FORGET YOURSELF AND GRIND TO A COMPLETE HALT during the bed-in!

[Yeobh]

Looks like yr ride brake system is not properly bleed. If your mech is still using leg power to bleed yr ABS brake system, I strongly suggest you avoid them at all costs.

Edited March 10, 2012 by Yeobh

[Mllcg]

  On 3/10/2012 at 12:16 AM, RadX said:

For 300km, do gentle braking, no hard braking and the like. This means you ahve to anticipate earlier, and start putting your foot on teh brakes earlier/.

 

After the 300 or so, you do a hard brake to finally bed them in. Drive about 50km/h on a straiught road and jam brake! That should bed the brakes.

 

If you do it wiht cars on road, you will be in the hospital BED

 

so after 300km, just do the jam brake once?

[SimonTan]

The correct way is to do hard braking to get the pads to wear fully to fill in all the troughs of the grooves.

If you observe the discs, you will see many concentric circles of crests and troughs, formed over the years.

When you chcpanhe new pads, the pads smooth surface will only contact the crests of the grooves on the disc.

So naturally thr braking force is lower, which is why the suggestion to drive slow.

But if there is a empty stretch, you should brake hard, to try to wear down the crests on the discs. Or to wear the pads so that it can conform completely to the concentric grooves on the disc.

There is no right of wrong. Just a matter of safety.

 

[Cerealkiller]

what if after some hard braking to wear the pads off and STILL get that screahing sound ???

 

i notice if you use Original pads, it does not occur...

[MacDuck]

  On 3/9/2012 at 4:32 PM, Mllcg said:

i dun understand. too much jargon. lol

 

any simpler ones?

 

 

http://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2980-...d-in-procedures

 

 

 

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

 

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

 

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

 

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

 

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

 

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

 

 

 

[MacDuck]

  On 3/10/2012 at 8:07 AM, Cerealkiller said:

what if after some hard braking to wear the pads off and STILL get that screahing sound ???

 

i notice if you use Original pads, it does not occur...

 

Copper grease helps to a certain extend. More often its due to the compound, metallic compounds are noisier and produces more brake dust.