Jump to content

Desperately needs help for vibration problem


Lsflsf
 Share

Recommended Posts

Supercharged

Yeah, the best to do take out unichip and other engine mods, go back to stock setting and see whether the vibration is still there...

 

I suspect it's the unichip.....

 

Why do u need racing oil, BTW?

 

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Chg mounts got lift up engine? Perhaps Unichip wiring was messed up during mounts chg. Still best to go back to your tuner to check. Since you just installed the Unichip they should be obliged to at least plug in to chk all the settings.

Don't unplug the Unichip yourself. Messed up liao your tuner may blame it on that.

In theory, Unichip being a piggyback just intercepts the signal to the ECU and throw in it's own to fool the ECU, so unplugging it should be alright. But not knowing what other mods you/previous owner threw in when you tuned with the Unichip, your ride may be running too lean since most basic mods introduce more air.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sell your car to single ladies.

 

Ask a very high price but make sure

 

they test drive it first.

 

After the thrill of the ride

 

they will accept any price you ask.

 

:D

Link to post
Share on other sites

(edited)
  On 1/25/2012 at 11:39 AM, Donut said:

Yeah, the best to do take out unichip and other engine mods, go back to stock setting and see whether the vibration is still there...

 

I suspect it's the unichip.....

 

Why do u need racing oil, BTW?

 

Haha racing oil is given free as a servicing when i brought the car

 

  On 1/25/2012 at 11:45 AM, Elmo said:

Chg mounts got lift up engine? Perhaps Unichip wiring was messed up during mounts chg. Still best to go back to your tuner to check. Since you just installed the Unichip they should be obliged to at least plug in to chk all the settings.

Don't unplug the Unichip yourself. Messed up liao your tuner may blame it on that.

In theory, Unichip being a piggyback just intercepts the signal to the ECU and throw in it's own to fool the ECU, so unplugging it should be alright. But not knowing what other mods you/previous owner threw in when you tuned with the Unichip, your ride may be running too lean since most basic mods introduce more air.

 

thats a fantastic idea i will go and check out the unichip

 

  On 1/25/2012 at 11:45 AM, Jamesc said:

Sell your car to single ladies.

 

Ask a very high price but make sure

 

they test drive it first.

 

After the thrill of the ride

 

they will accept any price you ask.

 

:D

 

i just brought it in oct 2011 sia. my wife is gonna strangle me if i do that.

Edited by Lsflsf
Link to post
Share on other sites

yes still vibrate if off aircon but maybe 35% intensity. Also to add on i just realised that the vibration only become more and more intense if i step longer on the brake.

 

example red light, if i just hold on the brake in D mode then it will increase the vibration density more and more

 

But if i still in D mode pull handbrake (prevent car crept forward) and let go of brake, the vibration will decrease by a significant amount immediately, then if i step on brake again it will slowly increase again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

your problem is vibration during car on stationary.

usually vibration is caused by engine mount and you had changed them.

so... what i can think of,

 

1) check your rotors, maybe warping and check your brake calipers (in short, do a full brake including rotor servicing) <- high likely.

2) check your rims.

3) check your U-joint from the drive shaft.

4) check your steering shaft or related components.

 

there are many possible reasons for vibration.

apart from engine mount, next will usually be your rotor problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  On 1/25/2012 at 12:35 AM, Lsflsf said:

Hi all, i have a headache on my car, hope to get some help or advise

 

Brought this Lancer EX 1.5 car a while ago, drive around and feel have vibration (personally dont like vibrations) rating the vibration density as 35/100 so butt itchy go check my engine mount at a amk autopoint work shop then workshop claims that 3 mount is broken - 100k car 3 years old.

 

Went JB Stockist they only have inspira 1.8L NON ORIGINAL engine mount so brought to try ~ 130sgd, went back to the autopoint workshop he installed then found that 3 matches but 1 dont so lan lan have to ask him to order that 1 piece which he claims to be original to fit in. At night collect car feel than vibration got worse density 90/100 paid $250 for the labour and 1 original mount (so now 3 inspira 1 original)

 

Drive for a day really bei ta han, go back to him then he suggest non original mount have such problem so i said ok then change the other 3 mount to original also then, at night collect paid another $380 for the 3 original mounts and labour (all 4 original)

 

Tested the car, vibration reduced drastically density 5/100, so drove off

 

1st day - perfect 5/100

2nd day - perfect 5/100

3rd day - vib starts to increase density 20/100

4th day - 40/100

5th day - 50/100

1 week later till now - 75/100

 

went back to autopoint he said all is original liao also cant figure out what is wrong, i asked him to check screw tightening, he refix 3 easier enigine mount vibration become slightly better 70/100 but still vibrating a lot, asked him why 1st 2 days ok then after that become worse and worse he say might be what sensor here and there but i dont make sense when it works perfect for 2 days and before i change mount the vibration also much lesser than now, change and become worse. then he say put car and wait which i didnt as i highly doubt his efficency

 

Now after 1 more week vibration becomes 80/100 le, then in D density is 80/100, in R density is 90/100 in N density is around 70/100. Thinking of going to stockist personally to change the engine mount to all original again what do you think?

 

Please help i already wasted $720 for this problem that usually people spend $600 on. and new original mount is gonna waste me $600 again

3 years old car got such problem? [confused] Could it be a lemon? [shakehead]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Holding on to brake and car feels like out of breath and vibrating? Your intake manifold dirty? Or throttle body dirty? Is your car vibration that bad while moving? If not, it should not be engine mounting because car accelerating, the engine block vibrates even more.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  On 2/25/2012 at 10:11 PM, Ladykillerz said:

your problem is vibration during car on stationary.

usually vibration is caused by engine mount and you had changed them.

so... what i can think of,

 

1) check your rotors, maybe warping and check your brake calipers (in short, do a full brake including rotor servicing) <- high likely.

2) check your rims.

3) check your U-joint from the drive shaft.

4) check your steering shaft or related components.

 

there are many possible reasons for vibration.

apart from engine mount, next will usually be your rotor problem.

 

Rims is new and changed quite ok before engine mount change. Any workshop to recommend to do the rest?

 

  On 2/25/2012 at 10:51 PM, Good-Carbuyer said:

3 years old car got such problem? [confused] Could it be a lemon? [shakehead]

 

Dont think is lemon as all other function works well, no engine check light also.

 

  On 2/26/2012 at 1:03 AM, Passion said:

Holding on to brake and car feels like out of breath and vibrating? Your intake manifold dirty? Or throttle body dirty? Is your car vibration that bad while moving? If not, it should not be engine mounting because car accelerating, the engine block vibrates even more.

 

Intake manifold <- how to check, throttle body just cleaned after engine mount change. Not much vibration while moving.

 

Only way to increase vibration is step on the brake, the longer the more intense the vibration (this only happen in a full stop non moving scenerio). could it be the brake?

Edited by Lsflsf
Link to post
Share on other sites

  On 2/26/2012 at 3:54 PM, Lsflsf said:

Rims is new and changed quite ok before engine mount change. Any workshop to recommend to do the rest?

 

 

 

Dont think is lemon as all other function works well, no engine check light also.

 

 

 

Intake manifold <- how to check, throttle body just cleaned after engine mount change. Not much vibration while moving.

 

Only way to increase vibration is step on the brake, the longer the more intense the vibration (this only happen in a full stop non moving scenerio). could it be the brake?

 

Since it gives more vibration when stationary, u can get someone to step on brakes in a carpark, u open up bonnet and look at the engine and try to trace the vibration and sound.

 

U Shld be able to see something if u say that vibration gets more and more in stationary.

 

It cant be rotor because it's stationary, not in moving motion.

 

U got check air filter? Got change new air filter? How about Fan belt area?

 

Again, my advice is to take out the unichip, put everything else to stock condition, and do the tracing from scratch.

 

If u go back to stock and no more vibration, then u will know it's not the car's problem.....

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  On 2/26/2012 at 3:54 PM, Lsflsf said:

Rims is new and changed quite ok before engine mount change. Any workshop to recommend to do the rest?

 

you can just go to any WS and do a check.

i still suspect its your rotor warping or caliper is not properly tighten.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Kakilang fuel filter?? got link also?

 

Cant be rotor la :) stationary. :)

 

Remove unichip?

 

Air filter tried 2 le stock and hurricane, both same.

 

According to my tuner the unichip cant just disconnect right? if disconnect cant start right?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  On 2/28/2012 at 3:45 PM, Lsflsf said:

Kakilang fuel filter?? got link also?

 

Cant be rotor la :) stationary. :)

 

Remove unichip?

 

Air filter tried 2 le stock and hurricane, both same.

 

According to my tuner the unichip cant just disconnect right? if disconnect cant start right?

 

Refer 3rd post: sparks and firing.

 

Fuel not supplied properly due to choke fuel strainer is oso connected. Car run out of fuel or water in fuel tank, the engine would vibrate b4 dieing off.

 

Just a witch doctor guessing [laugh]

Edited by KaKiLang
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have vibration problems in the past too. Change engine mount and mount at gear box, all prob solved. Reliable WS though.

 

One thing you must understand. change engine mount is a pretty complex work. So ONLY do it with reliable WS which knows your car bloody well.

 

check whether with A/C turn off, open window, drive a while, whether it is really very jialak. Since you spent so much, I recommend go back to AD to rectify.

 

 

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...