Lsflsf 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 Hi all, i have a headache on my car, hope to get some help or advise Brought this Lancer EX 1.5 car a while ago, drive around and feel have vibration (personally dont like vibrations) rating the vibration density as 35/100 so butt itchy go check my engine mount at a amk autopoint work shop then workshop claims that 3 mount is broken - 100k car 3 years old. Went JB Stockist they only have inspira 1.8L NON ORIGINAL engine mount so brought to try ~ 130sgd, went back to the autopoint workshop he installed then found that 3 matches but 1 dont so lan lan have to ask him to order that 1 piece which he claims to be original to fit in. At night collect car feel than vibration got worse density 90/100 paid $250 for the labour and 1 original mount (so now 3 inspira 1 original) Drive for a day really bei ta han, go back to him then he suggest non original mount have such problem so i said ok then change the other 3 mount to original also then, at night collect paid another $380 for the 3 original mounts and labour (all 4 original) Tested the car, vibration reduced drastically density 5/100, so drove off 1st day - perfect 5/100 2nd day - perfect 5/100 3rd day - vib starts to increase density 20/100 4th day - 40/100 5th day - 50/100 1 week later till now - 75/100 went back to autopoint he said all is original liao also cant figure out what is wrong, i asked him to check screw tightening, he refix 3 easier enigine mount vibration become slightly better 70/100 but still vibrating a lot, asked him why 1st 2 days ok then after that become worse and worse he say might be what sensor here and there but i dont make sense when it works perfect for 2 days and before i change mount the vibration also much lesser than now, change and become worse. then he say put car and wait which i didnt as i highly doubt his efficency Now after 1 more week vibration becomes 80/100 le, then in D density is 80/100, in R density is 90/100 in N density is around 70/100. Thinking of going to stockist personally to change the engine mount to all original again what do you think? Please help i already wasted $720 for this problem that usually people spend $600 on. and new original mount is gonna waste me $600 again ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithchue 5th Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 maybe u want to have a second opinion....no harm done asking someone else to check this for you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zyrofillica 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 check spark plugs? sometimes vibration cos one of your pistons not firing properly most prob sparks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imaginary 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 gearbox mount need to change too? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmo 4th Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 If the new mounts can get thrashed so fast then should not be mounts' fault. Could be the previous owner did some ECU tuning or piggyback and the idling and AFR all out of sync when demod? Try pumping a higher grade petrol first and if vibration reduced should be confirmed as tuning issues, and bring back to C&C to reset if they can. Else you can try a pro-Lancer wkshp to troubleshoot once and for all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friendstar Supercharged January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 Bro. Why not just go c&c? Save all the nonsense headache. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davidtht Neutral Newbie January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 Did you check your rims? If the rims are not balanced, it will cause vibrations too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R_aquarii 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 how did you check vibration density? is the vibration worst at idling? switch to N during red light and see if there is anymore vibration Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Detach8 5th Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 (edited) engine mount, gearbox mount? bad sparks? ecu kena remap vibrating like mad? i think all these need to check. that said, mitsu cars are known to be noisy (and hence vibrates a bit) are you using shell? try switching to esso 98 or spc 98. i have found shell pretrol making my engine noisy too. Edited January 25, 2012 by Detach8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donut Supercharged January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 Vibration can be due to few things, not just your engine mounts Check your air con compressor Gear box oil Steering bush Lousy engine oil Lousy sparks Lousy tyres Anyway, your WS is useless la. he should check on the above items when new engine mounts are not solving the problem Go to another WS. Go to MIT forum and ask around. And I think u made a mistake of buying JB stuff.... Non original somemore..... Big mistake Dont be penny wise, pound foolish Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lsflsf 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Author Share January 25, 2012 On 1/25/2012 at 12:53 AM, Keithchue said: maybe u want to have a second opinion....no harm done asking someone else to check this for you i am still trying to find a good ws since the one i went to seems to be completely failed. On 1/25/2012 at 1:31 AM, Zyrofillica said: check spark plugs? sometimes vibration cos one of your pistons not firing properly most prob sparks. checked. spark plug seems to be in good cond according to ws. On 1/25/2012 at 2:42 AM, Elmo said: If the new mounts can get thrashed so fast then should not be mounts' fault. Could be the previous owner did some ECU tuning or piggyback and the idling and AFR all out of sync when demod? Try pumping a higher grade petrol first and if vibration reduced should be confirmed as tuning issues, and bring back to C&C to reset if they can. Else you can try a pro-Lancer wkshp to troubleshoot once and for all. Hi my ride i tuned with unichip before changing mounts, all is good before unichip also, the only strange thing is it work perfect for 2 days then slowly degraded after that only On 1/25/2012 at 3:25 AM, Friendstar said: Bro. Why not just go c&c? Save all the nonsense headache. according to lancermotoring**** c&c is useless. i went there with a problem on my picanto i previously drove, their reply is worse than what a normal ws might comment. On 1/25/2012 at 3:49 AM, Davidtht said: Did you check your rims? If the rims are not balanced, it will cause vibrations too Cant be as if stationary once engage R the density increase when car is still stationary On 1/25/2012 at 4:03 AM, R_aquarii said: how did you check vibration density? is the vibration worst at idling? switch to N during red light and see if there is anymore vibration If during traffic light at D intensity 80/100 but if switch to N drop to around 70/100 On 1/25/2012 at 4:17 AM, Detach8 said: engine mount, gearbox mount? bad sparks? ecu kena remap vibrating like mad? i think all these need to check. that said, mitsu cars are known to be noisy (and hence vibrates a bit) are you using shell? try switching to esso 98 or spc 98. i have found shell pretrol making my engine noisy too. I am using unichip tuned to esso 98. noisy i can understand as all ex i been in is noisy but my vibration the most hiong. On 1/25/2012 at 5:09 AM, Donut said: Vibration can be due to few things, not just your engine mounts Check your air con compressor Gear box oil Steering bush Lousy engine oil Lousy sparks Lousy tyres Anyway, your WS is useless la. he should check on the above items when new engine mounts are not solving the problem Go to another WS. Go to MIT forum and ask around. And I think u made a mistake of buying JB stuff.... Non original somemore..... Big mistake Dont be penny wise, pound foolish air con just did flush only. gear box oil checked healthy, engine oil racing type. sparks iridium, tyres maxxix perfect sym. About the jb stuff i already realised its stupid to buy :) just trying my best to solve the affecting problems Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lsflsf 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Author Share January 25, 2012 oh ya i just remember if at traffic light D mode, i will get around 5 sec of density 80/100 then the density will increase to 90/100 after the 5 sec till i move off then return to 80/100 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmo 4th Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 Get your tuner to look at it again. Happened to me once after tuning, CEL came on and used Scangauge to clear. After that kept stalling until ECU relearn. Yours an auto? Could also be Unichip wiring came loose. Just curious: Does your tuner's name start with 'A'? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rb26dett Clutched January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 might be maf sensor dirty thus causing rough idling? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Detach8 5th Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 (edited) i would suggest you undo the unichip FIRST.. it might be that there's too much spark advance at idle Edited January 25, 2012 by Detach8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondavvvtec 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Share January 25, 2012 if you feel like your car shakes / vibrates alot while at certain speed only esp when you try to accelerate, then it might be faulty drive shafts. Previously i got such problems with my current ride Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lsflsf 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Author Share January 25, 2012 On 1/25/2012 at 8:22 AM, Elmo said: Get your tuner to look at it again. Happened to me once after tuning, CEL came on and used Scangauge to clear. After that kept stalling until ECU relearn. Yours an auto? Could also be Unichip wiring came loose. Just curious: Does your tuner's name start with 'A'? Yes auto, tuned by CH Mot***, all is working fine around 2 weeks plus after install. This only happen after i change my mounts. On 1/25/2012 at 8:49 AM, Rb26dett said: might be maf sensor dirty thus causing rough idling? Ok note check MAF sensor. On 1/25/2012 at 8:58 AM, Detach8 said: i would suggest you undo the unichip FIRST.. it might be that there's too much spark advance at idle Undo unichip? how? unplug the wires? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lsflsf 1st Gear January 25, 2012 Author Share January 25, 2012 On 1/25/2012 at 9:05 AM, Hondavvvtec said: if you feel like your car shakes / vibrates alot while at certain speed only esp when you try to accelerate, then it might be faulty drive shafts. Previously i got such problems with my current ride hmmz its actually a constant density and density only changes if i switch to R 90/100 or N 70/100 or D 80/100 ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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