Bad Auto Dealer - Salesman!

[Mkl22]

Ok to share my experience.

 

Always buy AD car with service history. Call to check to make sure mileage genuine. Rule of thumb is 20k or less per year, dun get too high mileage. Too low also not good.

 

Bring to AAS or your own mechanic to check for accident or major wear and tear. For major wear and tear, nego more discount.

 

If u put deposit, not more than 1000. Dun listen to crap about minimum how much the co accept or what. Proper dealer will not mind the difference. Black and white write down if major accident affecting chassis or engine or major component, full refund of deposit. If loan not approve also full refund.

 

Agree to all costs upfront, be very firm if they agreed all in price and then suddenly pop up admin cost or whatever. Walk out if they chut pattern.

 

Case trust regulated 500 max admin fee. If they ask for more, fly kite.

 

Confirm who arranging loan and insurance. If u arrange yourself, they may ask u top up abit. That is fine as long as u can get cheaper ins.recently i bot a car, i got aviva ins only 400plus ayear comprehensive. Even my dealer agree he cannot get this rate anywhere. I top up 200 to him to compensate him in lieu of insurance comm. this was agreed upfront also.

 

Paying cash. I paid full cash for my car, 30+. To make sure no hanky panky, i ask dealer to give me receipt indicating full payment made. I also insisted immediate transfer of car but he say need half a day. But thats fine becoz i can drive the car away immediately so i dun lose anything.

 

I dun care which dealer i buy from usually. Reputation not enough. For me, having a sense of how honest the dealer and salesman is more important. This i cannot teach u guys. Common sense lah. If dun feel good, then walk away.

 

Ok, thats about what i can remember.

 

Good luck.

 

Mine was transferred on the spot when I paid cash in full. The delay was because I used my own insurance and had to wait for the cover note to be sent over.

 

[Lucky888]

should call police

[Aukang]

Thanks to the 2 gentlemen for sharing your good practises much appreciated.

[Latio2005A]

Never ever patronize turf city.

 

There was once I wanted a used MX5 and saw one in Turf City (forgot whihc company).

 

Guessed what...I cannot test drive unless I confirmed by putting a downpayment!

 

I walked away without turning back.

[Coolpica]

I learnt how to spot a car which has been involved in an accident through the pictures of cars put up for auction at sgcarmart Quotz.

An e.g. would be this http://www.quotz.com.sg/auction/info.php?AID=10369

Edited August 18, 2013 by Coolpica

[ATTB]

I learnt how to spot a car which has been involved in an accident through the pictures of cars put up for auction at sgcarmart Quotz.

An e.g. would be this http://www.quotz.com.sg/auction/info.php?AID=10369

 

This car is a horror!!

[Coolpica]

This car is a horror!!

 

The more horrible it is the more I can learn from the pics. In the past I didn't know that signs of opened screws at engine bay or other parts of the car could mean that repairs have been done.

[Felipe]

i've a few simple steps. No need checklist.

 

Just ask dealer let u take the car to your mech or AD to inspect. I don't recommend STA unless STA is your trusted mech.

 

Good mech can tell whether car got into major accident before. If AD, there'll be service history but for older cars, this is difficult as the owner probably did not svc with them past warranty.

 

Especially for older cars, be prepared for wear and tear expenditure. Set aside a few k (for typical jap cars) to replace suspensions, brakes etc if needed.

 

Sometimes, i find the complaints are not justified. Ppl buy used car thinking of zero faults. That's not realistic. The lure of buying a used car is the lower depreciation and even if u do fix up some faults, the price will still be much cheaper than new.

 

So other than those dealers who take money and run, as long as the transaction is smooth, it's good enough for me. To me, buying a used car is a buy as u get item. Like buying a used home. No one complains about property agents selling a leaking home and in fact they can't, cos the contract is explicit. What u see is what u get.

 

If u cannot accept these measures, then spend the mind blowing coe money and buy new.

 

 

[Latio2005A]

i've a few simple steps. No need checklist.

 

Just ask dealer let u take the car to your mech or AD to inspect. I don't recommend STA unless STA is your trusted mech.

 

Good mech can tell whether car got into major accident before. If AD, there'll be service history but for older cars, this is difficult as the owner probably did not svc with them past warranty.

 

Especially for older cars, be prepared for wear and tear expenditure. Set aside a few k (for typical jap cars) to replace suspensions, brakes etc if needed.

 

Sometimes, i find the complaints are not justified. Ppl buy used car thinking of zero faults. That's not realistic. The lure of buying a used car is the lower depreciation and even if u do fix up some faults, the price will still be much cheaper than new.

 

So other than those dealers who take money and run, as long as the transaction is smooth, it's good enough for me. To me, buying a used car is a buy as u get item. Like buying a used home. No one complains about property agents selling a leaking home and in fact they can't, cos the contract is explicit. What u see is what u get.

 

If u cannot accept these measures, then spend the mind blowing coe money and buy new.

 

Agree

 

Wear and tear items like batteries, suspension, engine mount , tyres etc buyers shd bear the replacements unless these are agreed at the point of purchase.

[Celicar]

Bring to AAS or your own mechanic to check for accident or major wear and tear. For major wear and tear, nego more discount.

 

If u put deposit, not more than 1000. Dun listen to crap about minimum how much the co accept or what. Proper dealer will not mind the difference. Black and white write down if major accident affecting chassis or engine or major component, full refund of deposit. If loan not approve also full refund.

 

Agree to all costs upfront, be very firm if they agreed all in price and then suddenly pop up admin cost or whatever. Walk out if they chut pattern.

 

Case trust regulated 500 max admin fee. If they ask for more, fly kite.

 

Paying cash. I paid full cash for my car, 30+. To make sure no hanky panky, i ask dealer to give me receipt indicating full payment made. I also insisted immediate transfer of car but he say need half a day. But thats fine becoz i can drive the car away immediately so i dun lose anything.

 

All this fully agree. Avoid STA, fight for zero deposit (can be done one), state that it is all in price and immediate transfer of car. Talk of need few days all bull. Can be done online so don't believe need a few days all nonsense.

 

Just ask dealer let u take the car to your mech or AD to inspect. I don't recommend STA unless STA is your trusted mech.

 

Especially for older cars, be prepared for wear and tear expenditure. Set aside a few k (for typical jap cars) to replace suspensions, brakes etc if needed.

 

I trust AAS the most. And correct that you must factor in few k for unforeseen and sure got parts to replace. Cannot run one.

 

 

 

 

[Ghostrider]

There was once I wanted a used MX5 and saw one in Turf City (forgot whihc company).

 

Guessed what...I cannot test drive unless I confirmed by putting a downpayment!

 

I walked away without turning back.

 

Some do that to save guard people going for joy rides.

 

Even some AD does that...when I wanted to test drive the old Ford Focus ST...they ask for my license and a 5K refundable deposit. They ask to either scan the credit card or just write them a cheque...I wrote them a cheque and went for the test drive...then didn't like it and they pass me the cheque back.

 

If not...these type of fun cars...sure got pple wanna go for a test drive just for fun without any intention to buy.

 

[Remierwan]

The problems with the car so far.

 

1. BOOT Leakage, Mega Swift change the rubber seal for the boot cover but it still leaks,

I suspect the leak is coming from below, not the top. because my other things on top of the spare tyre compartment is not wet,

the only "flood" is in the spare type compartment.

 

I have yet to bring it to them for the repair, as JDM boss Jason have told me that they will warrant this repairs.

 

2. The charger have been fix, paid $200 for this

 

3. The water pressure pump/ the engine mounting / Rear Brake Pads / battery / coolant and heath checks- paid $2100

talking about replacing brake pads, mega auto swift actually lost the "theif proof wheel nut", then my workshop could not take out the wheels,

so in the end I bought a new set of wheel nut at $75, but still have to go to PM to unscrew the old nuts, because only PM have the tools. :(

 

Bro, I know how it feels like. 3 years back, I traded off my RX8 for 4 years old Airwave (Bi-fuel). I was short changed on a lot of things:

 

- Milage showing 33k during test drive. Upon collection, milage showed up as 58k. Dealer said they had to replace the whole meter thingi because last min it was damage. And the milage belong to the original other car. Told him to order a new one. I rather have low milage rather than high milage for resale value. 6 months down the road, reminder after reminder, still no stock.

- They replace new wheels. Every time I go on the highway, upon hitting 80km and above, the rear tires was rubbing against the car. Dealer said my suspension needs to be replace, etc. When I bring a wheel shop, they said the wheels are too big. Its 2nd hand and the dealer just wanted to save cost and give me wheels that do not suit the car. So I had to replace the whole set to thinner profile. $600 gone.

 

After that, I just cant be bothered with dealer. I come to accept that any problem with the car, I will just have to settle it myself. The dealer just wants to sell and hands-off.

Fortunately, used the car for 2 years plus without any major problems. Only car battery replacement and minor servicing done. It was a reliable car after all. Only bad experience on the sales service.

 

About your new ride, BMW is a little harder to maintained. Normal servicing by PM is on par with external workshop but the parts are often more ex due to import fees, etc.

I just changed to a new Beemer this year (right before they implemented the cooling measures). Their service have been good.

 

I recommend that you top up and take on their extended warranty because you do not know the history of the 6 year old BMW. Unless you have a workshop that you are comfortable with and knows about BMW cars inside out. Other than that, PM is still the safest to go to.

 

Hope you got over the worst part and enjoy your new ride. BMW is still thrilling to drive around. Drive safely and help spread the sentiments that BMW drivers are not all bad.

[Felipe]

Bro, I know how it feels like. 3 years back, I traded off my RX8 for 4 years old Airwave (Bi-fuel). I was short changed on a lot of things:

 

- Milage showing 33k during test drive. Upon collection, milage showed up as 58k. Dealer said they had to replace the whole meter thingi because last min it was damage. And the milage belong to the original other car. Told him to order a new one. I rather have low milage rather than high milage for resale value. 6 months down the road, reminder after reminder, still no stock.

- They replace new wheels. Every time I go on the highway, upon hitting 80km and above, the rear tires was rubbing against the car. Dealer said my suspension needs to be replace, etc. When I bring a wheel shop, they said the wheels are too big. Its 2nd hand and the dealer just wanted to save cost and give me wheels that do not suit the car. So I had to replace the whole set to thinner profile. $600 gone.

 

After that, I just cant be bothered with dealer. I come to accept that any problem with the car, I will just have to settle it myself. The dealer just wants to sell and hands-off.

Fortunately, used the car for 2 years plus without any major problems. Only car battery replacement and minor servicing done. It was a reliable car after all. Only bad experience on the sales service.

 

About your new ride, BMW is a little harder to maintained. Normal servicing by PM is on par with external workshop but the parts are often more ex due to import fees, etc.

I just changed to a new Beemer this year (right before they implemented the cooling measures). Their service have been good.

 

I recommend that you top up and take on their extended warranty because you do not know the history of the 6 year old BMW. Unless you have a workshop that you are comfortable with and knows about BMW cars inside out. Other than that, PM is still the safest to go to.

 

Hope you got over the worst part and enjoy your new ride. BMW is still thrilling to drive around. Drive safely and help spread the sentiments that BMW drivers are not all bad.

 

my prev swift and current altis, i spend about 2k each car after purchase.

 

some dealers are nice enough to tell u they have no responsibility over the problems of the car. However others like to paint fairytale to entice u to buy. So just go in with the idea it's your own problem and u will be fine. Used car dealers are not AD and have no after sales for u. It's silly to think they can do it even if they promise.

[Celicar]

some dealers are nice enough to tell u they have no responsibility over the problems of the car. However others like to paint fairytale to entice u to buy. So just go in with the idea it's your own problem and u will be fine. Used car dealers are not AD and have no after sales for u. It's silly to think they can do it even if they promise.

Very true. To them the car only transiting only, take in, sit at their shop, then go out. They take in as-is, sell as-is. Dealer tell you otherwise you better get in black and white, or else all hot air.

[King]

CAR DEALER ARE BLOOD SUCKER!

[Mysportwish]

every trades got good and bad sheep..... there are some good dealers as well.

 

as a buyer, we hv to be smart as well, get more opinion from reliable source, esp from friends and relatives..

[Watwheels]

On 10/6/2023 at 10:49 AM, Jordansoh said:

I have a very terrible experience with them recently. 

03 Oct – Received reply from Zoee at 12pm, on the Honda Vezel promotion. According to snapshot the vehicle monthly instalment is $1616.

03 Oct – 2pm arrived JPM Office. Was quoted with a higher instalment between $1797 to $1818 depending on which credit company provided the interest lower. The basic price of the vehicle is sold at $163,888. The deal comes with R sensor, R.camera, 10 years warranty, android player, floormat, IU Unit, 6 months road tax, Front and back camera, polish and groom, leather seat, Reg fee. JPM requested for a $1,000 deposit and the transfer was made immediately.

I was informed that the COE will be bid at $105,000 with 4 – 6 bids. Should the COE have been successfully bid and if I would like to cancel the deal, I will have to pay a penalty of $15,000 for the COE.

Due to my business schedule on 04 Oct, I have signed the forms and agreements in advance. Wing which is the manager of the outlet mentioned to me should the COE bid is successful I would have to transfer half of the $9,667 to them by 04 Oct 23.

After I went home, I received the sales proposal form.

I think about the pricing and the package they included. I found out that the package they offer did not seem match to according to what they have advertised on their social media. i.e. free servicing & Insurance.

I have started to compare the packages that other dealers and offered to me. I have decided the next morning not to proceed with the deal.

04 Oct – The next morning at 6.28am, I text Zoe, the Sale Agent and informed her that I have decided not to go ahead of the deal. As far a I know, I did not receive any confirmation of my loan approval from the finance company until 8.57am. I am also aware that they are supposed to wait for other finance companies to reply as well.

Accordingly, to Zoe, Wing is busy at the moment and could only call me back after his meeting. I was puzzled why Zoe could not make any decision since she is the one, I deal with directly. At about 11.06am, Wing called me and informed me that I am not able to cancel the deal as they have already placed the bid of the COE on One-Motoring. He informed me that I will have to either wait for the result of the bid or pay the penalty of $15,000 should I decided to cancel. I informed him that the deal he provided is not good. Other dealers provided x no of free servicing, insurance and one year road tax. Also why do I need to pay $15,000 since the official bid of COE is closed by 4pm. I subsequently informed him I am fine to forfeit the initial $1,000 but his boss did not agree. He claimed that he has ordered the car and even if they forgo the $15,000, they would still like me to pay $5,000 as they had ordered the car. This is the first time I have heard of such clause. Who will order the car in advance knowing that they have secured the COE first. Furthermore, I have requested to defer the collection of the car till end Nov or early Dec. In the end, "his so call boss" asked me to settle the payment of $3500 instead,

Subsequently, I checked with other dealers and was informed that the bid can be cancelled and if we do not want to go ahead with the deal, we are entitled to have our deposit reimbursed. And for my case, I have already informed them early in the morning on 4 Oct on my intention not to proceed.  I have since went to one motoring website and realized that my record was not in the system, and I have also contact one-motoring to do a further check for me and whether I can cancel the COE bidding.

I inform Wing that why my record is not on the portal. He subsequently informed me that he has cancelled the bidding. He responded over the text to me that the bid has been cancelled. He also dont know that the bid can be cancelled. He is the manager of the company. How can he be initially so confident say cannot cancel and then can cancel in the end. Is obviously this person is out to mislead customers.

I felt cheated on the whole episode. Subsequently, they agreed for me to reimburse them additional $3500, and they will close the case. They have asked me to go down to their office to pay them and have me to sign off the document.

Wing then strike off the sales agreement. Subsequently, I have requested for all the signed forms to return to me. He mentioned that he is not able to, but he will be tearing away all the forms. I requested to take a look at all the forms. I then noticed that the indemnity form and purchase agreement form was not signed by their end yet. I questioned the legality of the form since no signature was signed by their end. He mentioned to me that he can sign right now on the spot as well.

Subsequently, I have noticed that they have PHOTOCOPY my signature many times and cut and paste my signature on the forms as well. They use my photocopy signature and submit the loan application forms to the finance companies.  Even though my signature is inconsistent, they should not resort to such illegal measures by counterfeiting my signature.

They subsequently tear away all the forms in front of me and have Zoe to throw the documents away. I felt that this company is not honest and is wondering anyone could provide me with some advice on how to bring this case forward to the relevant authorities. I hope no one fall into the same trap as me.

 

You should have pick up the torn forms and make a police report. It is fraud and breach of contract to cut & paste your signature onto forms you didnt sign.

[Hamburger]

in a nut shell, you decided not to honour the contract after you signed the agreement after discovering the deal was not a good one??