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ICE intro ( need recommend for my budget & installer)


Ivansyl
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hahaha.. then u better stay clear of that installer..

 

chapalang quite common lah..

 

just dont be short change for ur cable if you have the intention to go active.. at least lay the cables correct.

 

also.. if u realise most shops dont have speakers for ppl to audit.. there is a reason .. for it..

 

i think u should go to the meetup and listen to some setups before u decide.. 1.5k - 2k is not much, but still its hard earn money.

 

but if u are very clear that u are not going active, then u can get entry level headunit.. those should suffice..

 

What's the reason for shops not having speakers for people to audit?

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hahaha.. then u better stay clear of that installer..

 

chapalang quite common lah..

 

just dont be short change for ur cable if you have the intention to go active.. at least lay the cables correct.

 

also.. if u realise most shops dont have speakers for ppl to audit.. there is a reason .. for it..

 

i think u should go to the meetup and listen to some setups before u decide.. 1.5k - 2k is not much, but still its hard earn money.

 

but if u are very clear that u are not going active, then u can get entry level headunit.. those should suffice..

 

hi budgetice, u mean the Amk332 meetup? but i think their systems over there would probably be so high end and the entry level sound system i will be gg for would be so much inferior.

 

btw u guys seem to know so much about these systems, is it possible to lay out a complete setup for the range of 1.5k u think is good?

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hi guys,

 

i have managed to stave off the desperation to zhng my ICE for 2 years now but finally giving in as I have some spare cash. was looking to either change my bodykit or ICE but decided ICE gets my priority.

 

i have a budget of 500-1000$ in mind but if exceed by a hundred or two can get me a MUCH better effect, i will consider. i know the madness of ICE can range up to much higher (20k for high end) but for a novice like me probably can only tell the difference btwn a stock system and smth much clearer with less noise)

 

now, i need recommendations for good installers/tuners to do it up for me and explain to me more in-depth.

 

i know for one that the whole setup includes

Headunit

Tweeters

Amp

Subwoofer

Speakers

and probably you'll need good RCA cables and a very good tuner too. soundproofing wise im nt sure if the end justifies the cost as im nt sure how much does it actually help?

 

also, if anyone can tell me whats the diff btwn an active and passive set. i have read it somewhere a year ago but decided not to go ahead and now forgotten whats the diff. any kind soul can save me the trouble of searching for it?

 

im looking for not only sound quality wise, but also aesthetically nice for viewing pleasure. always admired those sets!

 

i thank all of you bros for ur help in advance!

My 2 cents.

 

Throng the forums for 2nd hand 9887. Thats one of the better single DINs that allow time alignment and active speaker setup. You can save a fair bit buying used.

 

for speakers, you can go Ebay and search for DLS Gothia. Decent stuff at half the price.

 

For amps, you can go Ebay and search for Rockford Power series. You need a 4ch for active setup and a 2ch or monobloc for woofer. A 2ch will be cheaper.

 

For woofers, go Ebay again for Rockford Punch P2.

 

Bring these stuff to an installer you are comfy with for install. Include at least 2 layer door soundproof. Personally I like Foon and Dimension Audio.

 

Or u can attend forum meetups to audit systems.

 

Do it one shot active with time alignment for proper staging and imaging instead of going for something 2nd best then upgrade again.

 

ICE is transferable so be rest assured that the amount you spend can last you for a few cars down the road.

 

All the best in your ICE journey!

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Neutral Newbie

Since your're using 9887, did any of the installers you went to advise you to go active instead of remaining passive with a sub?

 

The time alignment of the 9887 (in an active setup) will enable you to get front staging and imaging. You can also time align the sub in the boot to "come" from the front instead of from the rear (can be done in passive as well since 9887 has time alignment).

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My 2 cents.

 

Throng the forums for 2nd hand 9887. Thats one of the better single DINs that allow time alignment and active speaker setup. You can save a fair bit buying used.

 

for speakers, you can go Ebay and search for DLS Gothia. Decent stuff at half the price.

 

For amps, you can go Ebay and search for Rockford Power series. You need a 4ch for active setup and a 2ch or monobloc for woofer. A 2ch will be cheaper.

 

For woofers, go Ebay again for Rockford Punch P2.

 

Bring these stuff to an installer you are comfy with for install. Include at least 2 layer door soundproof. Personally I like Foon and Dimension Audio.

 

Or u can attend forum meetups to audit systems.

 

Do it one shot active with time alignment for proper staging and imaging instead of going for something 2nd best then upgrade again.

 

ICE is transferable so be rest assured that the amount you spend can last you for a few cars down the road.

 

All the best in your ICE journey!

 

hi very valuable advice indeed. just to confirm from what i understand. going active will need an additional amp right? difference is to 1 amp for speakers 1 amp for sub? is that the only thing different for active? because my budget quite limited so im nt sure if 1.6k-1.8k thereabouts can do active setup anot

 

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going active means having one power channel of an amp drive 1 er, drive unit. (sorry sleepy liao cannot remember the correct term)

 

so if you wanna go active on a 4 channel amp, means 2 channels drive the tweeters, 2 channels drive the mid bass. also means you can only do 2 way active only. while passive means u can have a 2 channel amp, 1 channel drive left side, 1 channel for right side. in short, going active equals powering each drive unit individually.

 

using fast reply and lazy to refer back to the setups u posted, so gonna just say this. going active does not always mean better sound, but chances are higher that u will. a lot depends on the tuner.

 

and what time alignment does is it delays the sound reproduction from the individual speakers, so that the sound will reach u together. u can also put ur "stage" in the middle of your dashboard, like all sounds are coming from there.

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going active means having one power channel of an amp drive 1 er, drive unit. (sorry sleepy liao cannot remember the correct term)

 

so if you wanna go active on a 4 channel amp, means 2 channels drive the tweeters, 2 channels drive the mid bass. also means you can only do 2 way active only. while passive means u can have a 2 channel amp, 1 channel drive left side, 1 channel for right side. in short, going active equals powering each drive unit individually.

 

using fast reply and lazy to refer back to the setups u posted, so gonna just say this. going active does not always mean better sound, but chances are higher that u will. a lot depends on the tuner.

 

and what time alignment does is it delays the sound reproduction from the individual speakers, so that the sound will reach u together. u can also put ur "stage" in the middle of your dashboard, like all sounds are coming from there.

 

i see. so if i have a sub, i would need min. a 4CH amp to drive the comp speakers and another 2CH amp to drive the sub? which is why i need 2amps?

 

another question, if doing active setup, would i need to do any other improvements to the batt? i heard of grounding or smth.. issit cause the batt not enough power to drive the active setup? is it neccessary? or the car batt has more than enough capability to drive the setup

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total weight is less than lugging an extra passenger, so you need not worry that much..

 

and once you have the ICE setup done, i believe you will be going more lightfoot so you can enjoy the music better.. [rolleyes]

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thx everyone for ur kind advices, have done up my audio system and spent a bomb (2.4k 1shot) everything included + soundproofing for front doors. but im still quite unsatisfied with my bass. feels that its too weak when im on my RnB/hiphop tracks. which might mean more $$ to be spent in the next weeks/months! haha.

 

 

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btw while im at it, any pros here has recommendations for subwoofers ? dun mind getting 2nd hand (nt too old) :D

 

currently using RF P1S4 10" and just got to know its kinda chui as it uses paper cones.

 

looking for woofers which can go stronger, deeper and richer beats. to be powered by Arc Audio KAR400.2 amp..

 

thanks :)

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btw while im at it, any pros here has recommendations for subwoofers ? dun mind getting 2nd hand (nt too old) :D

 

currently using RF P1S4 10" and just got to know its kinda chui as it uses paper cones.

 

looking for woofers which can go stronger, deeper and richer beats. to be powered by Arc Audio KAR400.2 amp..

 

thanks :)

 

U need to ask yourself, how much you wanna spend. And,most of the kick you feel comes from the midbass, not the sub. the sub only helps to fill out the bass notes, if i remember correctly. my sub (currently still sitting in the shop) is the Morel Ultimo SC. good enough for me ^_^

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thx everyone for ur kind advices, have done up my audio system and spent a bomb (2.4k 1shot) everything included + soundproofing for front doors. but im still quite unsatisfied with my bass. feels that its too weak when im on my RnB/hiphop tracks. which might mean more $$ to be spent in the next weeks/months! haha.

 

WOW!!! That's extreme. What's your set up like?

Hmm what kinda bass do you want? tight bass? boomy bass?

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