Pitbull Clutched September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 u sure fit/jazz is that complicated? or hear say only? [laugh] Saw friends' Fit/Jazz install at workshop and workshop took out front cross member to install ARB ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Clutched September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 u sure fit/jazz is that complicated? or hear say only? [laugh] Saw friends' Fit/Jazz install at workshop and workshop took out front cross member to install ARB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Clutched September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 Oops, double post. Sorry mods Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuan 6th Gear September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 Hmm? I thought adding front struts will reduce understeer? Front struts reduces chassis flex of the front bulk of the car and thus results in better steering response, no? Please enlighten me. Anyway, when I was driving a Lancer GLX, a front strut bar didn't give me any significant difference. Steering felt more precise only after I complimented the front struts with a lower 4 points brace. Bodyroll was still as pronounced though. Not sure if it's a placebo effect but I believe car manufacturers didn't install these bars in sportscars for nothing. Yes. I would concur that it makes a difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuan 6th Gear September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 Front tower strut reduce front chassis flex and thus gives you more traction, thats why you have better response. Anyway, you have to corner hard to really feel it, daily commute hardly can feel. Undercarriage struts gives "more feel". To reduce roll, you need ARB. Most cars are built to understeer as it's easier to control for most drivers compared to oversteer. Some cars come with stock ARB but different drivers different style. Some people feel that stock ARB not enough and thus they upgrade to thicker ARB. For me, I am using stock ARB which is good enough for me (coupled with strut bars). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galantspeedz Turbocharged September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 What is your BHP? 220... and yes it helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbull Clutched September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 Some cars come with stock ARB but different drivers different style. Some people feel that stock ARB not enough and thus they upgrade to thicker ARB. For me, I am using stock ARB which is good enough for me (coupled with strut bars). Fully agreed. I'm on stock ARB and some bars too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nancyhuang Neutral Newbie September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 you can try to search it from Internet. Coach outlet factory coach outlet Coach Handbags Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuan 6th Gear September 15, 2011 Share September 15, 2011 Fully agreed. I'm on stock ARB and some bars too And stock suspension too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yc86 Clutched September 16, 2011 Share September 16, 2011 Hi... Wouls like to seek advises.. Me on stock suspension n 16' tyres. Will installing 4 pts front lower brace n anti roll bar helps in stability?? Ur advises much appreciated. Your kwestion can be answered complexly or simply. To be precise, stability is the ability for something to return to its original configuration after a disturbance. A stock car is normally stable, but a race car might not be. To be agile often requires a sacrifice in stability. so if you meant stability in that sense, then there is not much help the lower brace and ARBs would do as stability has something to do with damping and neither of them affect transient. If you meant response as in you want to make your car more responsive and feel sharper, then both might help. But before that.. it's quite complicated. 4 pt lower brace - it depends on the design. The idea is to increase chassis rigidity in the form of an easy bolt-on solution. A stiff chassis is good as it reduces undesirable changes in suspension geometry as load is applied when the car corners. i.e the car would be more predictable as less energy is lost in twisting the body, so the force is transferred quicker from one end of the car to the other. but the catch is that if your suspension is not stiff enough, a chassis that is too stiff might not make much difference as the energy is still being lost in the weak link. For ARBs, if your car doesn't come with one, then chances are that it does not need it, or it cannot be installed (like for a torsion beam rear). The thing with grip in a car, is that it is the relative difference or balance between the front and rear that causes understeer/oversteer. Not the individual absolute values. i.e installing a thick xxmm rear bar doesn't immediately result in oversteer. If the front is xxxmm thick, then it might result in understeer instead. Why this happens is partly due to a term called 'tire load sensitivity'. Basically the more you load up a tire (in a given time frame), the less relative grip (fy/fz) it produces. An ARB is just another spring added to the car which only works when the car turns. But it is the combined stiffness of the ARB and springs that contribute to left-right handling. So yes, in general the stiffer you go overall, the more response you get (and more damping you would need). Until the point where you exceed either the front or rear tires' capacity of course. hope it makes sense. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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