Needs Help !! After Installing I.C.E Engine Light Comes Up.

[S7rik3R]

u do not wanna step in.... lol

 

If he steps in ... he sure got "POISON" ...

[S7rik3R]

yo bro,

 

thanks for the info and sorry that this happened to you.

 

 

have you tried disconnecting everything on the amplifier? ( allpower cables and the smaller remote wire on the amplifier).

 

also disconnect the main power wire in the engine bay to the system.

 

If after u disconnect everything ( remember the remote wire, should be a smaller blue wire beside the poewr inputs), still got CEL light, i suspect your installer clipped something while installing the system.

 

also one thing to check first:

 

off your system ( via the headunit). then check the amplifier. Is the light still on?

 

If its still on, means installer tapped another wire as the remote wire.

 

do give it a shot first ( off hu and look at amps), then try the others.

 

Hope this helps

 

Cheers

 

 

At first, I only bought the monoblock and required installation on Woofer and Monoblock amp only.

But the installer shop boss keeps pushing sales here and there till I really no time to argue with them so I just ask them for the basic complete set.

 

He quoted me at $700 without monoblock and Woofer and next he pushes me for upgrading for better ones which I told him I don't want and told him I just want the basic cause I will get better speakers elsewhere.

Then I pass him my card to make payment and swip my card and when he pass me the slip, I question him how come becomes $900 instead of $700??

 

He told me this "I Thought You Wants To Upgrade For Better Speakers" ??

 

I told him off ... I never mention anything of upgrading and you are overcharging me for the purchases.

 

The shop owner no choice but to void away the bill ...

 

 

*Just To Share Knowledge*

 

Any purchases from dealer like this must be careful, make sure you see them install the correct model of speakers you bought. Cause you will never knows they might switch to other models and install it into your car without your notice especially when you left you car for them to installed.

 

Anyway, I send my car in to the PI agent hopefully to get it fix and next I will send the bill to him to pay up for the damages and wasting my 02weeks time and travelling trip for the mistake they did.

 

If they don't compensate for this, I'm going to file this to C.A.S.E

 

Anyway, most peoples should knows the Audio Shop as it quite well known ... But workmanship now is pretty bad, after installing the I.C.E, they can even forget to fix back my power windows switch and even install the faulty cables into the amp.

 

Luckily, I realise it and went back to ask them to replace the faulty cable.

[S7rik3R]

yo bro,

 

thanks for the info and sorry that this happened to you.

 

 

have you tried disconnecting everything on the amplifier? ( allpower cables and the smaller remote wire on the amplifier).

 

also disconnect the main power wire in the engine bay to the system.

 

If after u disconnect everything ( remember the remote wire, should be a smaller blue wire beside the poewr inputs), still got CEL light, i suspect your installer clipped something while installing the system.

 

also one thing to check first:

 

off your system ( via the headunit). then check the amplifier. Is the light still on?

 

If its still on, means installer tapped another wire as the remote wire.

 

do give it a shot first ( off hu and look at amps), then try the others.

 

Hope this helps

 

Cheers

 

 

Thanks for sharing the information but I'm an idiot when it comes to connect and disconnecting these electrical stuff in the car.

 

Cause I donno the cables from where to where. I can tell you, I know how to remove those cables out and next I dunno how to fix them back to the place I took them out.

 

[S7rik3R]

simple is the best in my opinion it has always been the same with the past vehicles

 

but i see the number of amps and stuff installed in TS vehicle is like an overload

 

It's the Dealer that pushes all the stuff into the car ... to my opinion, they only wants to push the sales ...

 

For me, I consider myself as newbie to I.C.E while my friend's friend paid more than 10K and he doesn't get the quality his paying for ...

 

Sorry I don't think I will go to that extreme on the car.

[S7rik3R]

previous 2 honda ride oso similar problem as yours

ask around quite a few workshop

findings the same nobody knew wat wrong

in the end so tl n changed ride

 

 

Any Lobang on this? Cause yesterday I send my car to check already but I'm still hunting for workshop that have this issues before and have a remedy on this.

 

I wasted the whole of last week just to find someone who knows how to fix it. But in the end, they say send in to let them Diagnose and check what went wrong but in the end, I have to pay for the Diagnose report and checking and in the end you know what they say ...

 

"LEAVE YOUR CAR IN OUR WORKSHOP AND WE WILL TRY TO CHECK WHAT IS THE PROBLEM"

 

In the end the few shops I went burns me another few hundred just for the "DIAGNOSE REPORT" which I told them no need to Diagnose already I have so many slips of all the same Errors code P2185 ... CHEESEPIE

 

And best part I went to one of the Diagnose Shop at UBI and One of the "Mechanic Supervisor" told me :-

 

P2185 ECT Sensor 2 (Circuit High Voltage)

 

ECT = ENGINE CONTROL THROTTLE ??? And I told him, you are the very first person who tells me ECT = Engine Control Throttle

 

Which I told him "ECT" stands for "Engine Coolant Temperature" !!! And even manual says so.

 

But he keeps insisting "Engine Control Throttle" ... and next the Boss came back and went into office to check on the "ECT" and told his supervisor to check on the car "Engine Coolant Temperature" Sensor.

 

he then keeps quiet ... then the Boss told me to wait for awhile before he jacks my car up to check. But I told the Boss to forget it ... I send my car elsewhere to check cause I have no confidence in your mechanic.

 

He ask me why :- I told him ur guys what "ECT" is and he can even argue with me that "ECT" = "Engine Control Throttle" ...

Even I read the manual also tells me ECT stands for "Engine Coolant Temperature" ... he never even bothers to check on the manual. My car is just a saloon car and not any F1 car that equips Engine Control Throttle of something so advance. Maybe your mechanic use to be a "F1 Mechanic" which I really dunno.

 

Who knows I left my car with you and next day I come back ... instead of finding the remedy for my car, it might landed somewhere in Scarp Yard. :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: Cheepie !!! So many unprofessional mechanic in Singapore now.

Edited September 12, 2011 by S7rik3R

[Wasted]

any clue on the audio shop that created this mess?!!!

[S7rik3R]

any clue on the audio shop that created this mess?!!!

 

The Audio Shop that created this Mess is totally clueless and they wasted my entire last week to send my car to fix.

[Beehive3783]

The Audio Shop that created this Mess is totally clueless and they wasted my entire last week to send my car to fix.

Please reveal the audio shop's name since they are unable to solve the problem.

[S7rik3R]

Update...

 

The PI agent just call me and sad to hear that they have check the car wiring and still cant figure out what went wrong with it.

 

And the PI ask me to get back to the Audio Shop and remove the power connection from the AMP to the car.

Which I told them they already did and the engine check light is still there.

 

Looks like my car has no remedy to cure ... Any bro face this problem before?

 

Really needs help badly to get this issue fix.

[S7rik3R]

Please reveal the audio shop's name since they are unable to solve the problem.

 

Now they really Pissed me off ... I just call them up to check on certain things that the PI wanted to know and the BOSS himself answer the call and yet he tells me "The Boss is busy with customer now" can I call back later ... :angry: :angry:

 

 

FAREAST AUTO

[Aaron_soh80]

Update...

 

The PI agent just call me and sad to hear that they have check the car wiring and still cant figure out what went wrong with it.

 

And the PI ask me to get back to the Audio Shop and remove the power connection from the AMP to the car.

Which I told them they already did and the engine check light is still there.

 

Looks like my car has no remedy to cure ... Any bro face this problem before?

 

Really needs help badly to get this issue fix.

 

 

Engine light on can lead to many many possibilities error..maybe it dosent do wif ur ICE..

Do ur car feel less power?will it juddered when high RPM? maybe is ur oil pressure switch fail.

And try reset ECu, and performed VTEC test..

 

 

 

 

[Watwheels]

Update...

 

The PI agent just call me and sad to hear that they have check the car wiring and still cant figure out what went wrong with it.

 

And the PI ask me to get back to the Audio Shop and remove the power connection from the AMP to the car.

Which I told them they already did and the engine check light is still there.

 

Looks like my car has no remedy to cure ... Any bro face this problem before?

 

Really needs help badly to get this issue fix.

After all aftermarket ICE removed, what the diagnostic read out says this time? Is it the same as previously or different?

[S7rik3R]

Engine light on can lead to many many possibilities error..maybe it dosent do wif ur ICE..

Do ur car feel less power?will it juddered when high RPM? maybe is ur oil pressure switch fail.

And try reset ECu, and performed VTEC test..

 

 

First of all, when I drive my car in before installing I.C.E ... no engine check light and everything works perfectly.

 

After installing the I.C.E, before I move off from the shop ... "I Only Start The Engine And The Engine Check Light Comes Up Immediately".

 

And as you mention on the oil pressure switch I dun think so cause the scanner print report stated that "P2185 ECT Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage and it refers to Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2.

 

Which means the switch looks something like this :-

 

[S7rik3R]

After all aftermarket ICE removed, what the diagnostic read out says this time? Is it the same as previously or different?

 

Guess I have to make a trip down later again to see what they have check and done. Cause over the phone conversation sometimes is so misleading. And best of all, PI Agent also another kind of "Simply Bo Chap" type.

 

If TWM Kar Engineering themselve cant fix this ... I really dunno who can fix this.

[Dunno]

Just remove the main ICE fuse fromt he battery terminal. The whole ICE system will be disconnected. If it's got to do with thie ICE, then the problem should go away.

 

If it doesn't go away, check if your radiator fan is working and is your water temperature normal.

 

BTW, they should have used 4 guage power cables instead of the tiny 8 guage.

[Aaron_soh80]

First of all, when I drive my car in before installing I.C.E ... no engine check light and everything works perfectly.

 

After installing the I.C.E, before I move off from the shop ... "I Only Start The Engine And The Engine Check Light Comes Up Immediately".

 

And as you mention on the oil pressure switch I dun think so cause the scanner print report stated that "P2185 ECT Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage and it refers to Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2.

 

Which means the switch looks something like this :-

 

but u change already is still the same rite ?

[Kb27]

Hi Bro,

 

I'm driving Honda Fit(GE) 2008.

 

Headunit - Kenwood DPX-MP5110U CD player with USB (Comes with it when I purchase the car)

Air Intake - Open Pod with Apexi Filter (Fix it quite sometimes already)

E-Throttle with SP9 (Fix it when it first launch)

Spy Car Alarm 2ways 5000M with LED Scanner (2yrs already)

 

*The above items installed has no problems at all*

 

Until the I.C.E was installed below then the engine light comes out immediately when I fetch my car at the installation shop.(Only Start Engine, the lights came out) No even moving off yet.

 

1) Blitz - BZA1000D Mono block 1000W Mosfet digital power amp.

2) JBL - GT4 12" 1000W Double voicecoil subwoofer.

3) Blitz - BZA-398 4-channels amplifier

4) Blitz - BZC-650 6.5 inch mid bass, neodymium tweeter & passive crossover

5) Twister - TW-602N 6.5 inch 2way coaxial speaker

6) MBQ single fuse holder with fuse (Large)

7) Power Acoustic FT08 8 gauge main amplifier power cable

8) Power Acoustic FT10 10 gauge main subwoofer power cable

9) MBQ audio HW323 Hi_Definition RCA cable

10) SoundQuest SQR54 Hi-Resolution amplifier remote cable

11) Sound Explorer SE8 Hi-Resolution Active Subwoofer cable

12) Extreme Power XP98 Hi-Performance speaker cable

 

That's the things installed in the car and then have this engine warning light came out immediately.

And also they keeps insisting to pump in the Aircon UV oil treatment.

 

Then FC is Super Extremely High - *Just like drinking water*

And engine bay is Super Hot - Can satay you in seconds when you leave it running for 15minutes

 

Until now car still not fix ... :angry: :angry: :angry:

Your FIT only has a small battery.

It will be under a lot of stress with all the ICE.

Your alternator would also be under extreme load, trying to power all the equipment, and charge the battery at the same time.

 

The main thing is does disconnecting all the ICE gives you back your previous performance?

Edited September 13, 2011 by Kb27

[Hanyoung]

Guess I have to make a trip down later again to see what they have check and done. Cause over the phone conversation sometimes is so misleading. And best of all, PI Agent also another kind of "Simply Bo Chap" type.

 

If TWM Kar Engineering themselve cant fix this ... I really dunno who can fix this.

 

Like some bros whom may have advised.

 

I suggest you go back to a reliable audio workshop that you trust (after all, he is the neutral party after all), disconnect all your connection to the I.C.E , reset your E.C.U and wait 5 mins before you start your vehicle. If the C.E.L light is gone, then you could pin-point that the fault either with the I.C.E or the workmanship. If the C.E.L still lighted, your car does has a problem (which has not surfaced) before your installation of I.C.E. Then you probably can approach your P.I (with the I.C.E removed) for assistance.

 

Hope this help.