Needs Help !! After Installing I.C.E Engine Light Comes Up.

[S7rik3R]

U might wanna get written agreement that the installer will pay for any damage or rectification fees

 

Oh I forgotten about it ... But now everything is handle by the PI agent will just have to wait for their report and then claim against them.

 

If they refuse to pay for the damages, then I shall file a small claim against them if the damages is cause due to the wiring done by them.

 

Thanks Bro

[Headshok]

Bro,

 

What car do you drive?

 

Also are you using an integrated oem head unit?

 

Please give more info about your system and also your car.

 

[S7rik3R]

Bro,

 

What car do you drive?

 

Also are you using an integrated oem head unit?

 

Please give more info about your system and also your car.

 

 

Hi Bro,

 

I'm driving Honda Fit(GE) 2008.

 

Headunit - Kenwood DPX-MP5110U CD player with USB (Comes with it when I purchase the car)

Air Intake - Open Pod with Apexi Filter (Fix it quite sometimes already)

E-Throttle with SP9 (Fix it when it first launch)

Spy Car Alarm 2ways 5000M with LED Scanner (2yrs already)

 

*The above items installed has no problems at all*

 

Until the I.C.E was installed below then the engine light comes out immediately when I fetch my car at the installation shop.(Only Start Engine, the lights came out) No even moving off yet.

 

1) Blitz - BZA1000D Mono block 1000W Mosfet digital power amp.

2) JBL - GT4 12" 1000W Double voicecoil subwoofer.

3) Blitz - BZA-398 4-channels amplifier

4) Blitz - BZC-650 6.5 inch mid bass, neodymium tweeter & passive crossover

5) Twister - TW-602N 6.5 inch 2way coaxial speaker

6) MBQ single fuse holder with fuse (Large)

7) Power Acoustic FT08 8 gauge main amplifier power cable

8) Power Acoustic FT10 10 gauge main subwoofer power cable

9) MBQ audio HW323 Hi_Definition RCA cable

10) SoundQuest SQR54 Hi-Resolution amplifier remote cable

11) Sound Explorer SE8 Hi-Resolution Active Subwoofer cable

12) Extreme Power XP98 Hi-Performance speaker cable

 

That's the things installed in the car and then have this engine warning light came out immediately.

And also they keeps insisting to pump in the Aircon UV oil treatment.

 

Then FC is Super Extremely High - *Just like drinking water*

And engine bay is Super Hot - Can satay you in seconds when you leave it running for 15minutes

 

Until now car still not fix ... :angry: :angry: :angry:

 

 

[Mitsubishi_23]

Hi Bro,

 

I'm driving Honda Fit(GE) 2008.

 

Headunit - Kenwood DPX-MP5110U CD player with USB (Comes with it when I purchase the car)

Air Intake - Open Pod with Apexi Filter (Fix it quite sometimes already)

E-Throttle with SP9 (Fix it when it first launch)

Spy Car Alarm 2ways 5000M with LED Scanner (2yrs already)

 

*The above items installed has no problems at all*

 

Until the I.C.E was installed below then the engine light comes out immediately when I fetch my car at the installation shop.(Only Start Engine, the lights came out) No even moving off yet.

 

1) Blitz - BZA1000D Mono block 1000W Mosfet digital power amp.

2) JBL - GT4 12" 1000W Double voicecoil subwoofer.

3) Blitz - BZA-398 4-channels amplifier

4) Blitz - BZC-650 6.5 inch mid bass, neodymium tweeter & passive crossover

5) Twister - TW-602N 6.5 inch 2way coaxial speaker

6) MBQ single fuse holder with fuse (Large)

7) Power Acoustic FT08 8 gauge main amplifier power cable

8) Power Acoustic FT10 10 gauge main subwoofer power cable

9) MBQ audio HW323 Hi_Definition RCA cable

10) SoundQuest SQR54 Hi-Resolution amplifier remote cable

11) Sound Explorer SE8 Hi-Resolution Active Subwoofer cable

12) Extreme Power XP98 Hi-Performance speaker cable

 

That's the things installed in the car and then have this engine warning light came out immediately.

And also they keeps insisting to pump in the Aircon UV oil treatment.

 

Then FC is Super Extremely High - *Just like drinking water*

And engine bay is Super Hot - Can satay you in seconds when you leave it running for 15minutes

 

Until now car still not fix ... :angry: :angry: :angry:

 

 

I think you can call my sound sysytem mechanic at 97301794 Ah Bao. At Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2. He is good at this.. If he cannot do it, he will tell you direct. Jap cars is alright, but Conti cars he unable as he told me there are too much computerise components to handle...

Edited September 12, 2011 by Mitsubishi_23

[S7rik3R]

I think you can call my sound sysytem mechanic at 97301794 Ah Bao. At Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2. He is good at this.. If he cannot do it, he will tell you direct. Jap cars is alright, but Conti cars he unable as he told me there are too much computerise components to handle...

 

I went to Ah Bao last week and left my car there overnight for him to check. And next morning I call him up, he say he cant figure out what happened.

 

Looks like the so call not bad installer shop has tarnish their reputation.

The sound system installed by them have destroy my Car. DAMN !!!

Edited September 12, 2011 by S7rik3R

[Fuelsaver]

I went to Ah Bao last week and left my car there overnight for him to check. And next morning I call him up, he say he cant figure out what happened.

 

Looks like the so call not bad installer shop has tarnish their reputation.

The sound system installed by them have destroy my Car. DAMN !!!

so wat auxximaxx told me was true; they mentioned have client car install till CEL comes on.

 

so this is wat it's abt.

 

so there is possiblity that ICE could affect FC??? perhaps i should revert to stock too...

[Ithunk]

so wat auxximaxx told me was true; they mentioned have client car install till CEL comes on.

 

so this is wat it's abt.

 

so there is possiblity that ICE could affect FC??? perhaps i should revert to stock too...

 

ice is only batt rite?

 

anyway would like to check out an ice meetup some day

 

would like to see how a stock compares to ice....

Edited September 12, 2011 by Ithunk

[Ithunk]

repeated post

Edited September 12, 2011 by Ithunk

[KKB]

Any bros have recommendation for pros with I.C.E. On Lexus?

[Fuelsaver]

ice is only batt rite?

 

anyway would like to check out an ice meetup some day

 

would like to see how a stock compares to ice....

paisay, dunno wat u mean. surely i dont mind to meet but evening n weekend now reserved for family. can meet lunch bo? ur ice stock?

Edited September 12, 2011 by Fuelsaver

[Ithunk]

paisay, dunno wat u mean. surely i dont mind to meet but evening n weekend now reserved for family. can meet lunch bo? ur ice stock?

 

no ice but thought of changing head unit to mp3 player as i have to burn cd-recordable most of the time

 

the shop is chop yong mo in east coast if u know

 

anyway i mainly listen to german techno in the vehicle

 

if can call more ppl for ice meetup will be better

 

ive not really looked into detailed of ice setups before so would be an eye opener

 

and btw the vehicle is a simple vehicle

 

this article should help

http://www.torquecars.com/ice/ice-components.php

Edited September 12, 2011 by Ithunk

[Watwheels]

ice is only batt rite?

 

anyway would like to check out an ice meetup some day

 

would like to see how a stock compares to ice....

No. Any on board electrical device is powered by the car's alternator. All the battery does, besides providing starting power, is to act like a very big capacitor (Dun ask me how big). I think TS overload the alternator with so much load, there's insufficient power to power the important things like the engine management and cooling systems.

 

I dunno why ppl like to have ICE installed in their cars cos the thing is space is very confined thus the acoustics are horrible coupled with road noise, tire noise and other misc noise. Dan ppl start to insulate their cars to the point when they get honked also dunno. Remove all the unnecessary load whether it's electrical or insulation. Your car will drive better.

[Genes]

ice is only batt rite?

 

anyway would like to check out an ice meetup some day

 

would like to see how a stock compares to ice....

 

u do not wanna step in.... lol

[Headshok]

Hi Bro,

 

I'm driving Honda Fit(GE) 2008.

 

Headunit - Kenwood DPX-MP5110U CD player with USB (Comes with it when I purchase the car)

Air Intake - Open Pod with Apexi Filter (Fix it quite sometimes already)

E-Throttle with SP9 (Fix it when it first launch)

Spy Car Alarm 2ways 5000M with LED Scanner (2yrs already)

 

*The above items installed has no problems at all*

 

Until the I.C.E was installed below then the engine light comes out immediately when I fetch my car at the installation shop.(Only Start Engine, the lights came out) No even moving off yet.

 

1) Blitz - BZA1000D Mono block 1000W Mosfet digital power amp.

2) JBL - GT4 12" 1000W Double voicecoil subwoofer.

3) Blitz - BZA-398 4-channels amplifier

4) Blitz - BZC-650 6.5 inch mid bass, neodymium tweeter & passive crossover

5) Twister - TW-602N 6.5 inch 2way coaxial speaker

6) MBQ single fuse holder with fuse (Large)

7) Power Acoustic FT08 8 gauge main amplifier power cable

8) Power Acoustic FT10 10 gauge main subwoofer power cable

9) MBQ audio HW323 Hi_Definition RCA cable

10) SoundQuest SQR54 Hi-Resolution amplifier remote cable

11) Sound Explorer SE8 Hi-Resolution Active Subwoofer cable

12) Extreme Power XP98 Hi-Performance speaker cable

 

That's the things installed in the car and then have this engine warning light came out immediately.

And also they keeps insisting to pump in the Aircon UV oil treatment.

 

Then FC is Super Extremely High - *Just like drinking water*

And engine bay is Super Hot - Can satay you in seconds when you leave it running for 15minutes

 

Until now car still not fix ... :angry: :angry: :angry:

 

yo bro,

 

thanks for the info and sorry that this happened to you.

 

 

have you tried disconnecting everything on the amplifier? ( allpower cables and the smaller remote wire on the amplifier).

 

also disconnect the main power wire in the engine bay to the system.

 

If after u disconnect everything ( remember the remote wire, should be a smaller blue wire beside the poewr inputs), still got CEL light, i suspect your installer clipped something while installing the system.

 

also one thing to check first:

 

off your system ( via the headunit). then check the amplifier. Is the light still on?

 

If its still on, means installer tapped another wire as the remote wire.

 

do give it a shot first ( off hu and look at amps), then try the others.

 

Hope this helps

 

Cheers

 

[Ithunk]

simple is the best in my opinion it has always been the same with the past vehicles

 

but i see the number of amps and stuff installed in TS vehicle is like an overload

[Mivec79]

previous 2 honda ride oso similar problem as yours

ask around quite a few workshop

findings the same nobody knew wat wrong

in the end so tl n changed ride

[S7rik3R]

so wat auxximaxx told me was true; they mentioned have client car install till CEL comes on.

 

so this is wat it's abt.

 

so there is possiblity that ICE could affect FC??? perhaps i should revert to stock too...

 

I dun think I.C.E will affect FC but will drains out your battery totally if you don't higher amp battery. After installing I.C.E in my car, I realise my throttle respond is slower and headlight gets dimmer because the I.C.E is draining away the battery power.

 

Guess I will needs a Capacitor and changing the Alternator?

Edited September 12, 2011 by S7rik3R

[Wasted]

u do not wanna step in.... lol

 

 

yup so poisonous...