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Hi, can any bros advise what is the difference between the ratings 45ah and 60ah?

 

45aH lasts for 45 hours at 1 amp per hour.

 

60aH lasts for 60 hours at 1 amp per hour.

 

 

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Buy a non frill battery ,no warranty, self collect and install = very economical price.

If you want convenience, service on call ,keep yr hand clean, reasonable warranty then you have to pay a premium for the goods and service.Remember everyone in doing business needs to keep certain amount of profit to defray direct and indirect cost. If he or she cannot make reasonable margins he or she will call it a day and do other more profitable business. It simple as ABC.

 

Well said.. Get ur hand dirty if u wanna save the bucks.

 

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Supercharged

45aH lasts for 45 hours at 1 amp per hour.

 

60aH lasts for 60 hours at 1 amp per hour.

Thanks.

Do you mean for 45ah, it could run the lights, CD player, etc (without engine switched on) for max 45 hours???

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Thanks.

Do you mean for 45ah, it could run the lights, CD player, etc (without engine switched on) for max 45 hours???

 

Assuming the lights, CD player, etc.. consumes current at 1 amp per hour constantly and give or take 10%, yes.

 

Once you consume beyond a certain point, there will be not enough CCA for cranking your engine though. Think 80%?

 

 

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Supercharged

Assuming the lights, CD player, etc.. consumes current at 1 amp per hour constantly and give or take 10%, yes.

 

Once you consume beyond a certain point, there will be not enough CCA for cranking your engine though. Think 80%?

Yes, probably around 80%, I think so too.

 

Btw, how muhc amp is our car alarm consuming power since it is turn on every nite when we parked the car?

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any idea its because, i am authorised amaron dealer, and was warned by agent to sell according to market price, those selling at $110 might be old stocks clearance, for your info my batt is $130,transport cum service is $30, as transport is break even, the most is service is only left with $20, so $130batt + $30 for transport cum service....

 

if customer wants to get a $110 amaron that has already been 1 yr on the shelf, they can go ahead, my amaron is weekly replenished and wont last more than 1 month in my hands, before 1 month, in every week i have to intake new stocks from agent.

 

As for the new merc??? i dont drive a merc, recently van got lots of problem so took my dad's i45 to do deliver, i never increase the price, transport cum service still $30....

 

different car got different battery size so do not expect same price, a honda fit and toyota camry wont be using the same battery so expect to pay slightly higher for a camry

 

Thanks for info, will definitely call you if I need a batt replacement.

 

Maybe you should put your Mobile in Signature, easier to contact you.

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Buy a non frill battery ,no warranty, self collect and install = very economical price.

If you want convenience, service on call ,keep yr hand clean, reasonable warranty then you have to pay a premium for the goods and service.Remember everyone in doing business needs to keep certain amount of profit to defray direct and indirect cost. If he or she cannot make reasonable margins he or she will call it a day and do other more profitable business. It simple as ABC.

 

you are the man ! exactly what i want people to know, some ppl just refuse to pay the service charge....

 

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expert...can i ask you if you know what is the most scientific and practical way to identify a worn out shock absorber ??? i know there is something like a compression test...but is there anyway that a novice with limited equipment able tell exactly if a asborber is worn out... :D thks in advance..i am sure u have some pretty good advise...

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The accept method of testing shock in most european vehicle inspection centres is via a set of rapid oscillation plates. The machine computer will count the no of time the wheels contact the plates.

The shock and spring assemble each component function opposing each other. The spring allows oscillations which too much may cause discomfort to both driver and passengers and must be stop. The hydraulic shock function as a damper to cut out the oscillation forces.

To manually do the testing, just quickly press the car body which is above the shock. If the oscillation is rapid and soft then chances you will have a weak shock.

 

PS I am no auto repair expert, just a armchair mechanics and online salesman. Just happen that I know slightly more than the layman and apprentice mechanics :D

Edited by Yeobh
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The accept method of testing shock in most european vehicle inspection centres is via a set of rapid oscillation plates. The machine computer will count the no of time the wheels contact the plates.

The shock and spring assemble each component function opposing each other. The spring allows oscillations which too much may cause discomfort to both driver and passengers and must be stop. The hydraulic shock function as a damper to cut out the oscillation forces.

To manually do the testing, just quickly press the car body which is above the shock. If the oscillation is rapid and soft then chances you will have a weak shock.

 

PS I am no auto repair expert, just a armchair mechanics and online salesman. Just happen that I know slightly more than the layman and apprentice mechanics :D

ur "slightly more" is A LOT more...

 

find ur posts in depth n informative; the forum needs more ppl like u.

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then is there anyway to tell how much say like in term of a percentage that the absorber had worn out? I was asking this thing to the AD workshop "service advisor"...his answer to me imply that it is either dead or alive...the rest is just b-u-l-l-s-h-i-t....

 

why i am very interested in this thing is because my suspension system keep giving the quek quek sound when going over humps...or when coming down from a slope like in a MSCP ram onto the level surface...the car on landing on flat surface from the ram also quek...

 

i still don't think it is normal....but the AD guys keep insisting it is normal... but if it is normal...how come when the car is new...don't have this queking sound ???

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i am going back to the 80s where we used the non MF type battery. Since the wkshop is filling the battery water for me, might as well get it as its cheaper...........and supposedly, should last longer. A myth?? Dont know, i try and find out then.

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then is there anyway to tell how much say like in term of a percentage that the absorber had worn out? I was asking this thing to the AD workshop "service advisor"...his answer to me imply that it is either dead or alive...the rest is just b-u-l-l-s-h-i-t....

 

why i am very interested in this thing is because my suspension system keep giving the quek quek sound when going over humps...or when coming down from a slope like in a MSCP ram onto the level surface...the car on landing on flat surface from the ram also quek...

 

i still don't think it is normal....but the AD guys keep insisting it is normal... but if it is normal...how come when the car is new...don't have this queking sound ???

quek quek means its leaking liow.... its that simple.

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i am going back to the 80s where we used the non MF type battery. Since the wkshop is filling the battery water for me, might as well get it as its cheaper...........and supposedly, should last longer. A myth?? Dont know, i try and find out then.

 

Still can find arh? Where?

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