Temperature meter

[Andromeda2000]

If the meter never get pass the halfway mark, you will be ok. But keep monitoring the temp as you just change to coolant which may cause leakage due to rust buildup when you use water.

[5936]

OK, Got the messaage.

 

Engine coolant operating temperature is 107.

 

Roger and Out.

[Otoko]

  On 8/12/2011 at 6:02 AM, Satria_neo said:

If you are hitting over 90C then I think you need to get your cooling system checked. It could mean a failing pump or blockage in the cooling lines or air pockets or radiator fan not working etc. There is also a thermostat in the radiator that determines what temp should the fan operates.

 

seriously i know nuts abt engine cooling system but accordingly to mech it seems normal for my 20yr car~

noticed there is not much diff with previous 3.0l cars with aircon on when parked, temp hovers ard 90~100c

 

 

  On 8/12/2011 at 6:10 AM, Steptronic said:

I also felt the same as he says the temperature shoots up in Jams. That means the natural cooling is not taking place at Jams, which otherwise is helping his cooling system. Could be a potential problem as all latest cars have very good system to control the temperature on dot! I never witnessed any movement in all my cars so far!

 

i feel it may be diff engine types with cooling system as mine is a rather old car~

without aircon, max temp hovers ard 70~80c.

 

  On 8/12/2011 at 6:13 AM, Mllcg said:

sometimes turning on the aircon helps if it currently is off.

 

in my case, its definitely diff from newer car model~

 

  On 8/12/2011 at 10:14 AM, Phluvcat said:

Sorry sorry perhaps I am not clear.

 

I used to top up using water only. Went SK do my repairs to wear and tear parts, and switched to coolant. Noticed that the meter now registers a slightly higher temperature compared to using water. I was thinking something was wrong like leakage.

 

Confirm no leakage (yet). Attached photo of meter using coolant.

 

 

 

Previously when using water, temperature was about 2 to 3mm lower. Just wanna ask if its normal. In both cases, meter is stable, and have never hit the halfway mark.

 

Apologies if I caused confusion.

 

Does registering a higher temperature equates to a lower engine performance (could be due to hot weather too), I seem to be feeling it. Paiseh, I think for old school manuals, every little differences can be felt.

 

in my experiences, your pic looks normal with that temp~

sometimes it does depends on the weather of the day, traffic condition~

in such tropical place we are, at traffic jams with aircon and lower temp then that car is a really cool running car~

in terms of conti/jap makes, conti will have slightly higher temp over jap makes~

 

[Otoko]

  On 8/12/2011 at 10:54 AM, 5936 said:

There is no numerical temp scale on your meter.

 

If this is the usual stable operating temp, it looks normal to me for Asian cars.

 

Conti car usually operate at 82-88deg C temp range.

 

So I think you can relax on this.

 

On your question of higher temp will loose engine performance, I think you already experience power lost before, so it is double confirmed.

Higher temperature means thinner oil viscousity, and that leads to drop in oil pressure.

 

If you user of NSHW, you will experience this with a short coffee or toilet break, to let engine cool down.

 

sounds like an experienced car driver to me~

 

  On 8/14/2011 at 2:31 PM, Jchuacl said:

No. Even when my water temp reaches 107, the needle still stays in the middle.

 

That's why I like to have an on-board readouts for the ECU parameters that are of concern to me .

 

either your car make is badly designed or whatever extra u fixed is reading some wrong info~

any car make with temp meter would show meter over half at 107c~

also most cars are designed to withstand high temp to operate other than meter in red or smoke coming out from engine bay~

be it water or coolant, there must be a valid reason why these 2 are common methods for most cars~

from any stories told from old timers, standard answers are given:

 

water: low cost but frequent checks/top up required

coolant: cooling but creates metal rust to radiator in long running cars

 

[Jchuacl]

Well, you didn't ask what car I drive. My car comes with a high revving engine so I would presume it would be able to withstand heat better than most cars.

 

Anyway, you stated conti cars has higher water temp, so what is the range that you observed and how you monitor/check your temp?

 

 

 

  On 8/19/2011 at 3:11 AM, Otoko said:

either your car make is badly designed or whatever extra u fixed is reading some wrong info~

any car make with temp meter would show meter over half at 107c~

also most cars are designed to withstand high temp to operate other than meter in red or smoke coming out from engine bay~

be it water or coolant, there must be a valid reason why these 2 are common methods for most cars~

from any stories told from old timers, standard answers are given:

 

water: low cost but frequent checks/top up required

coolant: cooling but creates metal rust to radiator in long running cars

 

[Phluvcat]

muahaha

 

today went to my regular mech to change back to FK Massimo...back to normal liao

 

[Jchuacl]

So OWS gave you problems?

 

  On 8/19/2011 at 12:35 PM, Phluvcat said:

muahaha

 

today went to my regular mech to change back to FK Massimo...back to normal liao

 

 

[Phluvcat]

  On 8/19/2011 at 12:52 PM, Jchuacl said:

So OWS gave you problems?

 

Not ows but agip eo...prob not suited for my engine. So happy like a child, keep jua the pedal on the way back.

Later at night cooler I go jua someone.

[Jchuacl]

To summarize, the problem is due to engine oil that you used, and not due coolant.

 

And the agip engine oil seems to increase the operating temp for your car.

 

  On 8/19/2011 at 1:39 PM, Phluvcat said:

Not ows but agip eo...prob not suited for my engine. So happy like a child, keep jua the pedal on the way back.

Later at night cooler I go jua someone.

 

[Otoko]

  On 8/19/2011 at 12:09 PM, Jchuacl said:

Well, you didn't ask what car I drive. My car comes with a high revving engine so I would presume it would be able to withstand heat better than most cars.

 

Anyway, you stated conti cars has higher water temp, so what is the range that you observed and how you monitor/check your temp?

 

i noticed both merc/bmw (2.0~4.2l) when idling with aircon varies on weather range ard 70~100c on the meter and most owners would act normal..

 

maybe most conti drivers wouldnt be bother abt the temp as long as smoke doesnt comes out from bonnet i guess~ it'll really be embarrassing to cut off aircon with guest onboard huh~

[Jchuacl]

Then what you stated earlier on that conti cars have higher water temp doesn't hold.

 

 

  On 8/31/2011 at 9:14 AM, Otoko said:

i noticed both merc/bmw (2.0~4.2l) when idling with aircon varies on weather range ard 70~100c on the meter and most owners would act normal..

 

maybe most conti drivers wouldnt be bother abt the temp as long as smoke doesnt comes out from bonnet i guess~ it'll really be embarrassing to cut off aircon with guest onboard huh~

 

[Otoko]

  On 9/6/2011 at 3:24 PM, Jchuacl said:

Then what you stated earlier on that conti cars have higher water temp doesn't hold.

 

if u happen to come across serious noon jam & next lane to u is conti/jap, u can give a frdly wave to check the temp~

based on my experiences with diff conti/jap makes, i'm sharing my observations~

as for conti drivers, i have to admit that i'll be one of those who cant be bother until smoke comes out if i have guest onboard~

 

[Jchuacl]

U don't have stats to prove it , I have .

 

  On 9/7/2011 at 8:34 AM, Otoko said:

if u happen to come across serious noon jam & next lane to u is conti/jap, u can give a frdly wave to check the temp~

based on my experiences with diff conti/jap makes, i'm sharing my observations~

as for conti drivers, i have to admit that i'll be one of those who cant be bother until smoke comes out if i have guest onboard~

 

[Ghostrider]

Speaking from recent experience...

 

Water or coolant...temp gauge should remain constant.

 

My car's drain plug was dislodged and cause my car to overheat...send to my mech and they found the cause...so repair and they didn't put coolant cos want to see if the plug holds...so after 2 weeks...no issue cos running on water alone. (so call jam is every morning along PIE to Changi)...gauge remains constant.

 

Then now replace the water and added 50/50 mix of coolant to the radiator...water temp gauge remains the same.

 

If your gauge rise above the normal stopping point, it indicates a problem to your cooling system....its a warning...and its not normal. Could be a slow leak....thermo jam...or fan is faulty.

[Munch003]

My experience with a sticky thermostat was that the temp would shoot up

to 3/4 mark and once the thermostat unsticks itself, the temp goes back down to normal range irregardless if the car is on the move or stationary.

 

If cooling fan is not working, the temp will rise when stationary and drops when on the move.

 

For certain cars with two fans, 1 fan will be the radiator fan which blows air across both radiator and condenser and another fan which is the aircon's which sucks air out from both. For such system if the radiator fan is not working, you can turn on the aircon to get the ac fan working and cool the engine temps.

[Otoko]

  On 9/7/2011 at 9:59 AM, Ghostrider said:

Speaking from recent experience...

 

Water or coolant...temp gauge should remain constant.

 

My car's drain plug was dislodged and cause my car to overheat...send to my mech and they found the cause...so repair and they didn't put coolant cos want to see if the plug holds...so after 2 weeks...no issue cos running on water alone. (so call jam is every morning along PIE to Changi)...gauge remains constant.

 

Then now replace the water and added 50/50 mix of coolant to the radiator...water temp gauge remains the same.

 

If your gauge rise above the normal stopping point, it indicates a problem to your cooling system....its a warning...and its not normal. Could be a slow leak....thermo jam...or fan is faulty.

 

  On 9/7/2011 at 2:43 PM, Munch003 said:

My experience with a sticky thermostat was that the temp would shoot up

to 3/4 mark and once the thermostat unsticks itself, the temp goes back down to normal range irregardless if the car is on the move or stationary.

 

If cooling fan is not working, the temp will rise when stationary and drops when on the move.

 

For certain cars with two fans, 1 fan will be the radiator fan which blows air across both radiator and condenser and another fan which is the aircon's which sucks air out from both. For such system if the radiator fan is not working, you can turn on the aircon to get the ac fan working and cool the engine temps.

 

we need stats for prove to this topic it seems~ despite my 15yrs driving from 600c~2.8l makes also not enough leh~

Edited September 8, 2011 by Otoko

[Munch003]

I have an OBD reader running Torque on my android.

The vital stats are all there.

 

[Jchuacl]

Look, we are here to share, not to prove how smart we are with the number of years of experience on the road or the number of cars we owned.

 

For those like me who get statistics from the car ECU, we actually learn quite a lot more about our cars. That's why I can tell you frankly, you don't have the statistics to know whether you are right or not, but rather from gut feeling.

 

With stats, facts are facts, there's no need to argue about it. This is exactly the same thing that I always tell pple here in the forum that they need to see the advance in ignition timing to know whether certain petrol works better or worse for them rather than butt feel.

 

 

  On 9/8/2011 at 4:53 AM, Otoko said:

we need stats for prove to this topic it seems~ despite my 15yrs driving from 600c~2.8l makes also not enough leh~