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Warm up for sport cars required?


SimonTan
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I also think it's about lubrication. Like over the night the lubricant settles so when engine start it will take some time for it to move around the engine. What the official website of my car says on cold start the ecu will auto pump in more fuel to warm it up. Which is true when the rpm is above 1k rpm w/o me touching anything and dan settles to idle at around 1k rpm. Dun have to manually rev like old cars.

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There's no winter here so just drive slowly and engine will warm up in a matter of seconds. In freezing winter, you drive 10 mins engine still cold but most people also bo chap cos warm yourself more important. :D

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It is a good practice to idle the engine at least for 30 seconds before we move on. This helps improving the life of the engine. Some of the car manufacturers give this as "Tip".

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Neutral Newbie

 

Optimum lubrication is achieved at a give oil temp so yes all cars need to warm up.

 

modern cars still need to, as do sports cars. Most newer sports cars have engine temp rev limiter to protect a cold engine from damage.

 

 

 

Most engine wear is caused at initial start up period.....

 

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I also think it's about lubrication. Like over the night the lubricant settles so when engine start it will take some time for it to move around the engine. What the official website of my car says on cold start the ecu will auto pump in more fuel to warm it up. Which is true when the rpm is above 1k rpm w/o me touching anything and dan settles to idle at around 1k rpm. Dun have to manually rev like old cars.

 

Lubrication is actually not the problem. This is because engine gets lubrication easily within 10sec.

 

As I have mention, the issue is with the piston expansion etc. Piston rattling can occur casing scuffing. Bearing tolerances not there causing vibration (again scuffing can occur). There is also turbo shaft that need to meet tolerances.

 

Why is it like? Its because its designed that way by engineers.

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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

Lubrication is actually not the problem. This is because engine gets lubrication easily within 10sec.

 

As I have mention, the issue is with the piston expansion etc. Piston rattling can occur casing scuffing. Bearing tolerances not there causing vibration (again scuffing can occur). There is also turbo shaft that need to meet tolerances.

 

Why is it like? Its because its designed that way by engineers.

 

 

 

 

 

Lubrication is in two parts.

 

1) Wetting of the surfaces which as you correctly say takes only a few secs

2) Maintaining a correct oil film thicknesses between sliding or rotating parts

 

 

Film thickness is a function of oil viscosity, oil pressure and mechanical clearances

 

all three of these items are a function of engine/oil temperature. So yes you can wet/lubricate and engine quickly but it takes a while for oil to reach optimum temp and for engine clearances to expand to optimum size

 

 

 

Edited by Badder
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Neutral Newbie

But many sports car owners just start, blow and sprint off...definitely reaching redline on cold engine.

 

Being sports car owners don't automatically mean they have brains.

In fact, many sports car drives I meet on the road are c--k brain idiots.

 

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Puzzled? 3000rpm can reach 90 to 100km/h on expressway, why need redline?

I believe use of multi-grade engine oil, local weather/climate (sunny/raining) may affect the engine lubrication.

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Neutral Newbie

Puzzled? 3000rpm can reach 90 to 100km/h on expressway, why need redline?

I believe use of multi-grade engine oil, local weather/climate (sunny/raining) may affect the engine lubrication.

 

Not always, if the "spot" car is running super low final drive the engine rev may be higher than 3k even in top gear at expressway speeds.

Using more rev, "dragging" is useful when you need to out accelerate other vehicles on the road.

 

Most "spot" cars redline at about 6-7K. Hondas are notorious for having 7K to 8K redlines and there is not much torque until you are running in the VTEC zone (6K to 8K).

 

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There is some truth in what is said. The tolerences for certain cars are v tight so need to warm up to get to operational temps b4 going off. In fact F1 cars engines are seized up at room temps so need external heaters to warm engine up b4 starting. SOme sport cars run aggressive cams which doesnt work well at idle so when cold it dies easily.

 

Few modern cars are like these anymore cos their fuel injection system & ecu will enrich the fuel at cold temps to get the engine warmed up & running faster.

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i'm driving a normal car...

 

Normally i would warm up my car first for like 5mins....

 

Then on the AC...

 

Suprisingly, i find it much smoother when i'm driving after doing so....

 

The AC also gets colder...

 

-_-

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I think modern cars can do that. Have been doing that for the past 10 years with my corona. Don't need to wait till warm up. No problems with the engine after 10 years also.

 

 

Corona is [thumbsup]

 

I had a Corona CD auto b4. Damm solid car. Never gave me trouble.

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Puzzled? 3000rpm can reach 90 to 100km/h on expressway, why need redline?

I believe use of multi-grade engine oil, local weather/climate (sunny/raining) may affect the engine lubrication.

 

 

Cos when ty drive a sports car, sound more shiok when higher rev so pple around know this bugger drive a "sports car". [laugh][laugh][laugh]

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Even engine no need warm up, transmission fluid needs to warm up, right?

 

In sunny SG, no real need to "warm up" cos its already warm. [laugh]

 

Just drive as usual till the temp needle moves past the 1/4 mark then everything is already quite warm n can just drive as usual.

 

When just start, drive a bit slow under 2K rpm is good already but if u need to open up to avoid something, just do it cos it wont really cause much wear unless u do it all the time.

 

U just might feel engine a bit less power only.

 

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