Front Cross Drilled Brake Disk Rotor

[Kurty]

hi,

 

may i ask if anyone here has upgrade from stock rotor to drilled/slotted type.

 

able to share the experience?

does it really helps in braking?

 

i'm using performance brake pad, FF grade.

 

and what does port/pod refer to?

sometime i see like 4 pod, 6 pod. if i not wrong, bigger the better.

always a common sight for performance car.

 

which mine is not, but i more ks.

thus taking safety seriously as i enjoyed speeding too.

 

please enlighten

[Turtlekar]

Wat is your ride? Bbk is good for those on track n a lot of high speed brake. Have u done suspension if not brake fAst no stiff usupension also same same. 4 port6 port means the brake cylinder. Best is mono port cos consistency else brake disc will wrap. Slot disc is more for heat release cos especially on track, frequent braking causes e disc heat up super fast. If u do only street racing, no point lah.

 

Nothing bat ks if u Change brake disc but more on showy...now all changing brake rotor aka disc is for swee. U have I also want but is there a need??? Unless u ride frequent pg or sepang else I really dun see a need. Change brake pad can liao.

Edited January 23, 2011 by Turtlekar

[Happily1986]

Don't recommend drilling rotors as it will result to premature rotor failure. Yes, cross drilled rotors result in better heat dissipation and thus better braking performance as evident from standard usage in major rallies and races. But what they don't tell you is that the rotors are changed every race. i don't think it is feasible to keep changing rotors for normal street driving.

[Eyke]

Go for slotted; drilled will crack.

 

Helps prevent glazing also.

 

Btw, it's "pot", not "port".

Edited January 23, 2011 by Eyke

[Superyandao]

actually n-port refers to the number of pistons in the brake caliper that is used to press against the broke rotor. the more the better due to spread of pressure. 1-pot means only 1 piston pushing against the rotor i.e. 1 big fat thumb holding down a piece of paper. 2 pot means 2 same sized pistons pushing against each other i.e. using 2 fingers to grab a piece of paper. 6 pots means 3 on each side. so now you know which is better.

 

the strength/brake power is related to the brake pump. the size of the pump determines how much brake fluid is delivered to push the pistons.

 

the larger the brake rotor, the better the braking also since more surface area, better leverage, more heat dissipation, etc. imagine moving a door at the handle vs near the hinge.

 

drilled/slotted rotors help in heat dissipation which improves braking. also, the holes allows for "eddy" air to be released and not trapped.

 

other than these, there's also mono-block which means the entire piston is made from a single piece of aluminium and not conjoined using welding/etc. this allows the piston to be lighter, stronger, etc.

 

[Thedream]

As Superyandao has said, the "pots" are the pistons that push the brake pads against the rotors when you step on the brake pedal. You can see the two pistons in the following picture on the right - these are 2-pot brake calipers...

 

 

The following calipers have pistons on both sides - these are 4-pot brake calipers...

 

 

In general, the more pots means a bigger brake pad and rotor is required and hence a greater braking force.

 

My understanding is that plain rotors (with no slots and drilled holes) gives the greatest braking force. The purpose of Slots and Cross-drilled rotors is to dissipate heat. But they actually reduce the contact between the brake pad and rotor. In general you will only need slotted and cross-drilled rotors on the track where you brake hard over and over again and you need to dissipate the heat...

 

So to answer Kurty's question, I think that changing to slotted or cross-drilled rotors actually reduces braking force...

[Superyandao]

if memory serves me, drilled/slotted rotors increases the "bite" of the pad i.e. soles of running shoe (unlike tyres where grooves are to drive water and slick tyres have the best grip). also, the reduced weight of the rotor contributes to shorter braking distance. the reduction of eddy air currents also allows better contact of pad against rotor i.e. "aeorplaning" like aquaplaning characteristic.

 

considering the frequent usage of brakes (the pad is actually lightly brushing against the rotor even under normal drive), the heat reduction helps in braking performance. the hotter it is, the less effective the brake pad (there's a "breakdown" temperature just like how prolonged braking will reduce effectiveness - sintered pads have higher temperature tolerances). have you every tried touching your rotor immediately after a drive? it can be quit warm to the touch.

 

they are "must have" for the track, but i believe in urban driving or frequent brake usage even without hard braking, they are better.

 

[Superyandao]

from wiki:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake#Discs

"On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads. Crossdrilled discs may eventually crack at the holes due to metal fatigue. Cross-drilled brakes that are manufactured poorly or subjected to high stresses will crack much sooner and more severely."

 

from ehow:

http://www.ehow.com/about_5329445_slotted-...led-rotors.html

"Aftermarket brake rotors of both the slotted and drilled variety are available for most vehicles. Both slotted and drilled rotors provide better performance than the stock rotors on a vehicle."

 

from ebe:

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/sport_...ors/index.shtml

"Slotted rotors can significantly improve brake performance and longevity when used with a matching high friction pad set ."

 

[Thedream]

if memory serves me, drilled/slotted rotors increases the "bite" of the pad i.e. soles of running shoe (unlike tyres where grooves are to drive water and slick tyres have the best grip). also, the reduced weight of the rotor contributes to shorter braking distance. the reduction of eddy air currents also allows better contact of pad against rotor i.e. "aeorplaning" like aquaplaning characteristic.

 

ok... I guess my analogy would be that brakes are like slick tyres then...

 

considering the frequent usage of brakes (the pad is actually lightly brushing against the rotor even under normal drive), the heat reduction helps in braking performance. the hotter it is, the less effective the brake pad (there's a "breakdown" temperature just like how prolonged braking will reduce effectiveness - sintered pads have higher temperature tolerances). have you every tried touching your rotor immediately after a drive? it can be quit warm to the touch.

 

you trying to sabo me ah? rotors are not only warm, they will burn your fingers... but good street pads can be rated up to 300-500 deg. I think it won't be easy to get them up to that temp in Singapore, unless you do burnouts

 

they are "must have" for the track, but i believe in urban driving or frequent brake usage even without hard braking, they are better.

 

I don't think many people have ever experienced brake fade just by driving in Singapore, so I guess the difference in "performance" is if they drive on the streets just like they would on a race track...

[Kurty]

 

may i ask what is this, slotted and drilled?

 

how to tell the difference?

 

 

ok... I guess my analogy would be that brakes are like slick tyres then...

 

i'm using a ultra performance tires, in fact, it's a summer tyre..

so when rain, i had to drive slow as the aquaplaning is terrible.

 

You can see the two pistons in the following picture on the right - these are 2-pot brake calipers...

 

stock is usually 2 pot brake caliper rite?

 

 

 

sorry, i'm not driving a performance car.

but just really kaisi..

 

i have encounter 2 near miss accident whereby i nearly hit the driver in front due to e.brake at high way..

my usual speed is around 100-110max in sg highway.

safety distance always enforce.

but sometime, sg driver like to ebrake for no specific reasons..

causing a real panic.. balls shrink..

 

thus thought of doing something to enhance the braking safety.

tyres also brand new, bought at last aug.

rear brake is drum type.

not really into street racing also...

 

only time is when traveling north, i will go around 160km and above.

 

 

compare the brake hose and rotor, which will be a better investment?

[Thedream]

may i ask what is this, slotted and drilled?

 

how to tell the difference?

 

that's both slotted as well as drillled.

 

i'm using a ultra performance tires, in fact, it's a summer tyre..

so when rain, i had to drive slow as the aquaplaning is terrible.

 

Whether your tyres are ultra performance tyres has little to do with whether it aquaplanes. It's largely the design of grooves on the tyres that determines whether they aquaplane easily or not...

 

stock is usually 2 pot brake caliper rite?

 

I can't say. Check your manual?

 

i have encounter 2 near miss accident whereby i nearly hit the driver in front due to e.brake at high way..

my usual speed is around 100-110max in sg highway.

safety distance always enforce.

but sometime, sg driver like to ebrake for no specific reasons..

causing a real panic.. balls shrink..

 

thus thought of doing something to enhance the braking safety.

tyres also brand new, bought at last aug.

rear brake is drum type.

not really into street racing also...

 

only time is when traveling north, i will go around 160km and above.

 

compare the brake hose and rotor, which will be a better investment?

 

I think even within speed limits and at safety distance, we still need to drive defensively. Anticipating other drivers e-brake as well as cutting into your lane...

 

Tyres can be new, but different tyres have different stopping distances. Drum brakes can perform just as well as 2-pot brakes...

 

My experience is that you won't experience much difference in braking power from changing to stainless steel brake hose or changing to slotted/cross-drilled rotors. I think the better investment will be on better brake pads...

[Kurty]

thanks,

 

does slotted refer to the groove whileas the drilled refer to the holes?

 

 

as for the tires, i'm using V-shape UHP tyre, something like toyo T1-R

just without the 2 straight line at the side.

 

My experience is that you won't experience much difference in braking power from changing to stainless steel brake hose or changing to slotted/cross-drilled rotors. I think the better investment will be on better brake pads...

 

brake pads already changed..

 

 

[Weiming]

I am of the opinion that good tyres and tyre pressures are more important than the rotor type used. The OEM rotors are engineered to work with your car without issue.

 

If you like speeding, then it would be best to do it on track in a controlled environment where you can hone your driving skills without endangering other general road users.

 

Slotted = lines

Drilled = holes

 

 

[Thedream]

thanks,

 

does slotted refer to the groove whileas the drilled refer to the holes?

 

yep.

 

as for the tires, i'm using V-shape UHP tyre, something like toyo T1-R

just without the 2 straight line at the side.

 

I don't think it's possible to tell whether a tyre aquaplanes from the tread pattern. Actual tests need to be conducted.

 

brake pads already changed..

 

how good are your brake pads are tyres?

[Yuan]

hi,

 

may i ask if anyone here has upgrade from stock rotor to drilled/slotted type.

 

able to share the experience?

does it really helps in braking?

 

i'm using performance brake pad, FF grade.

 

and what does port/pod refer to?

sometime i see like 4 pod, 6 pod. if i not wrong, bigger the better.

always a common sight for performance car.

 

which mine is not, but i more ks.

thus taking safety seriously as i enjoyed speeding too.

 

please enlighten

 

I have used 1 set of cross drilled and slotted aftermarket rotors. Now onto my second set (slotted only).

 

My experience tells me that grippy brake pads, tires and your road awareness (including driving defensively) make the most difference.

 

Don't speed. Keep to road limits.

[Fresh]

i have encounter 2 near miss accident whereby i nearly hit the driver in front due to e.brake at high way..

my usual speed is around 100-110max in sg highway.

safety distance always enforce.

but sometime, sg driver like to ebrake for no specific reasons..

causing a real panic.. balls shrink..

 

thus thought of doing something to enhance the braking safety.

 

ROFLMAO

 

1. don't drive so fast

2. keep a safe® distance

3. drive defensively

4. Newly purchased tyres may not be new tyres, check mfr date. old tyres rubbers harden.

[Cerano]

hi,

 

may i ask if anyone here has upgrade from stock rotor to drilled/slotted type.

 

able to share the experience?

does it really helps in braking?

 

i'm using performance brake pad, FF grade.

 

and what does port/pod refer to?

sometime i see like 4 pod, 6 pod. if i not wrong, bigger the better.

always a common sight for performance car.

 

which mine is not, but i more ks.

thus taking safety seriously as i enjoyed speeding too.

 

please enlighten

 

pot refers to the piston eg. 4pot = 4 pistons. more the merrier.

 

as for rotors, drilled and slotted are different in their heat dissipation as well as brake pad consumption

 

slotted eat pad like nothing

 

 

 

 

 

[Ichibawa]

Best defense against sudden braking from the car in front of you is explained by bro Fresh.

 

Like what Cerano said, you might end up changing brake pads more frequently and not having much improvement for your purpose. Best to keep the money and pump fuel in Singapore.