MAZDA 6

[zenooi]

Hi anyone has a good recommendation of sun shade for front windscreen, custom fit for Mazda 6?

Saw many and found a costly one below:

https://shopee.sg/product/213256333/14849169975?smtt=0.98310518-1648648406.9

 

 

[richard_crl032]

On 3/29/2022 at 9:59 AM, Banz86 said:

Just sharing my thoughts on my suspension replacement (Brand: TEIN) after using it for almost a month. For fellow owners who are looking for an OE replacement.

2015 Mazda 6 (Mileage: 102k)

• Stock suspense used for 6+ years, replaced it as it is begining to feel soft and if I hit a high bump, I can feel it hitting the top
• Replaced with TEIN Endura Pro (OE replacement) - $1775
• Price includes Installation and Alignment, Original Mounts, Bearings, Bushings, and Dust Cover (Front Set)
• Added on extra $50 for tyre balancing and rotation

 

Hmmh, Tein endura pro plus* dampers that I am using with swift springs and edfc active pro dynamic damping that I have in my forester is 1k with installation at BKS Woodlands ... just the dampers or with matching springs before any mazda 6 owners go to your installer ?

Cheers.

* more expensive version that is adjustable

Edited April 1, 2022 by richard_crl032

[richard_crl032]

On 3/29/2022 at 8:37 PM, al_888 said:

Dealer offer $400 my set of 17 rim/tyres for trade-in. Still not sure if i should sell on carousell for the extra bucks?

Car mat and window magnetic screen given by SA.

As for the start/stop, it also depends on car. some has very mild vibration while others could be quite irritable. I was told this has to do with the way it's engine is being mounted (not a tech guy so i take with a pinch of salt)

Go for it .. 400 is a good trade-in price but it also depends if he is overcharging you on your new sets .. old tricks by many tyres/rims shop 😓

[Mr6]

Any tried& tested good Mazda workshop in the west to recommend? Need some minor scratch and dent fix. Thanks bros!

[Banz86]

23 hours ago, Mr6 said:

Any tried& tested good Mazda workshop in the west to recommend? Need some minor scratch and dent fix. Thanks bros!

You can this shop called Master Car Spray Service at 40 Toh Guan Road East #01-67, Enterprise Hub.

It is a spray painting shop, not really a Mazda workshop. You can drop by and take a look. 

[Banz86]

On 4/1/2022 at 4:27 PM, richard_crl032 said:

Hmmh, Tein endura pro plus* dampers that I am using with swift springs and edfc active pro dynamic damping that I have in my forester is 1k with installation at BKS Woodlands ... just the dampers or with matching springs before any mazda 6 owners go to your installer ?

Cheers.

* more expensive version that is adjustable

I installed that with the dampers + installation without the Springs and EDFC. Wow your price is really good.

[richard_crl032]

17 minutes ago, Banz86 said:

I installed that with the dampers + installation without the Springs and EDFC. Wow your price is really good.

Sorry to hear cos I think you had just patronised a "dark shop" ... 1k is mkt price with adjustable active pro being 200-300 more and you should even go to case to complain cos it is way way too much at almost 1.8k but not clear what else they had included 🙏🙏🥲

Just google on carousell for reference and it is no secret .... cheers.

 

Check out 'Endura pro plus TEIN SHOCK ABSORBERS kyb  ESTIMA PREVIA ACR50 Jdm', available at S$1,000 on #Carousell: https://carousell.app.link/iQqgosSJUob

Check out 'TEIN Endura Plus for Toyota Harrier', available at S$1,350 on #Carousell: https://carousell.app.link/7f7sG5UJUob

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by richard_crl032

[Banz86]

Ok. I got mine for 1450 with installation and laser alignment. I remeber to add the "plus" for an additional $150 (but i opted out). I replaced the front bushings and such for an extra $300.

[arataka]

10 months of ownership now and want to seek advice on 2 matters.

Firstly, the car have been doing this Tak sound during the first or so turn down the mcsp almost every morning. During the last 2 service I have mentioned this issue to both the Leng Kee and Ubi service centres and both officers said the same thing - this is an operational sound from the suspension bushing. Its a common problem with the facelifted version and even if they do a replacement or calibration, the sound will come back. They reassured its not a safety concern. Anyone else actually managed to get this fixed?

Secondly, the gear change and power delivery has been out of sorts in the last 2 or so months. This is noticeable in low speed low gear (about gear 2) scenario like when inching up hill or going over multiple consecutive speed bumps. The car becomes choppy and jerky exactly like in a manual car when the clutch control is still noob and in the wrong gear. In the last service, I mentioned this and they did a 'relearn' for the transmission. Not only did the problem go away, but I felt the car power response significantly improve. But within 3 weeks, its now starting again. Again, anyone has any idea on this?

Edited May 4, 2022 by arataka

[zenooi]

Hi guys, can I check if you know of any usb (socket plug) device that can read battery voltage? Just got a battery replacement when car couldn’t start with error “Depress brake pedal”. Change new battery and all fine now, but I would like to manage and monitor the battery if it is required to be changed. 
 

i saw OBD gauge too but abit complex as I only want to monitor battery. Appreciate your feedback 🙏🏻

[DOBIEMKZ]

4 hours ago, arataka said:

10 months of ownership now and want to seek advice on 2 matters.

Firstly, the car have been doing this Tak sound during the first or so turn down the mcsp almost every morning. During the last 2 service I have mentioned this issue to both the Leng Kee and Ubi service centres and both officers said the same thing - this is an operational sound from the suspension bushing. Its a common problem with the facelifted version and even if they do a replacement or calibration, the sound will come back. They reassured its not a safety concern. Anyone else actually managed to get this fixed?

Secondly, the gear change and power delivery has been out of sorts in the last 2 or so months. This is noticeable in low speed low gear (about gear 2) scenario like when inching up hill or going over multiple consecutive speed bumps. The car becomes choppy and jerky exactly like in a manual car when the clutch control is still noob and in the wrong gear. In the last service, I mentioned this and they did a 'relearn' for the transmission. Not only did the problem go away, but I felt the car power response significantly improve. But within 3 weeks, its now starting again. Again, anyone has any idea on this?

@arataka I supposed that your Mazda 6 is a new car and as you stated had gone through 2 servicings, the mileage is around 10K km plus?

[arataka]

1 hour ago, DOBIEMKZ said:

@arataka I supposed that your Mazda 6 is a new car and as you stated had gone through 2 servicings, the mileage is around 10K km plus?

@DOBIEMKZ Yes that is correct

[DOBIEMKZ]

9 minutes ago, arataka said:

@DOBIEMKZ Yes that is correct

@arataka I share my experience here.

My current car is a CX30 (now about 13 months plus) which has the same engine and transmission as your Mazda 6.

The two cars have the same 1st and 2nd gear ratios.

Initially in the first months I did felt that the transition between 1st and 2nd gears not too seamless, sort of like a manual clutch biting-point being engaged too fast/suddenly.

I googled on that issue and came to know that the Mazda Skyactiv AT transmission uses a direct clutch lock-up system in when the vehicular speed exceeds around 15km/h or 18km/h. So if the system senses that the car speed reaches say 15km/h (give or take a bit of variance), the transmission will not rely on torque converter transmission fluid to transmit engine torque from the flywheel to turn the clutch plate; instead the clutch plate will be activated to physically and directly in connection with the flywheel so that whatever torque is transmitted directly to the gear. 

So if a driver is driving in slow moving traffic conditions or maintaining slow motion over some conditions, the system may experience some hesitation on the actual timing to lock up the clutch, any this can manifest into some sort of choppiness or jerkiness, because the full force of the engine torque is now being "dumped" onto the clutch without the transmission fluid in between to absorb any shift-shock.

Now I feel that the above issue in my car has somehow subsided because the system might have learn of the driving habit or behaviour....🙄

But also, if the traffic conditions is very much the stop-and-go kind, I now generally put the gear into M1 or M2 and stay at that. Initially the sensation felt weird and the car might feel draggy in M1 but after some time and the engine nicely loosen up it actually feels good.😄

[arataka]

@DOBIEMKZ It seems that the symptoms are exactly as you described. Though the odd thing now is that instead of it getting better over time, I feel that it is getting worse over time. Especially after the last service, when the technician said that they did a relearn, there was significant improvement immediately. The car was responsive, power was instant. There was no choppiness at all for the first 2 or so weeks after the service. Now coming to the 4th week, i feel that the issue is coming back.

For your case, was the choppiness there from day 1? Or was it like mine that evolved over time and then got better?

[DOBIEMKZ]

17 minutes ago, arataka said:

@DOBIEMKZ It seems that the symptoms are exactly as you described. Though the odd thing now is that instead of it getting better over time, I feel that it is getting worse over time. Especially after the last service, when the technician said that they did a relearn, there was significant improvement immediately. The car was responsive, power was instant. There was no choppiness at all for the first 2 or so weeks after the service. Now coming to the 4th week, i feel that the issue is coming back.

For your case, was the choppiness there from day 1? Or was it like mine that evolved over time and then got better?

@arataka 
I did felt some slight jerkiness initially until for a few months or after the 10k km. But I did not feedback this issue to Mazda service and so there was no re-learning or re-programming.

To me it seemed like the issue manifested itself in very slow speed crawling, constant stop-and-go traffic conditions or coasting inside MSCPs, and also when the more light-footed or gentle I drive (gentle meaning that trying not to go over 1800 to 2000rpm) in those conditions. I read and heard from the horses' mouths that the system is constantly alternating between locking-up the clutch with the flywheel or to decouple them. I supposed that is its leaning curve.🙄

So after my 2nd servicing at 10k km, and when I supposed that my engine had already nicely ran-in, I was more adventurous and tried different methods available to see how to mitigate or eliminate the symptoms. And I found that if I engaged Sport mode or manually lock gear at 1st or 2nd in the above driving conditions, the symptom is greatly reduced, even non-existent. 

And currently if I use normal D mode in those traffic conditions I hardly feel the issue.

Either the clutch plate surface and flywheel surface both have already being nicely rubbed-in or the system has learnt not to be too jumpy in alternating between the clutch lock-up or decoupling them. 

As a side note, I found that sometimes in certain city or urban driving conditions, I achieve better fuel economy using Sport mode. Maybe the car can get up to a certain speed faster and then I release the accelerator and let the car does coasting to the next traffic light and in the process it totally cuts off the fuel feed. I notice this in the real-time instantaneous fuel consumption display in which it indicated 60km/l (max reading) whenever during coasting.

I don't know what traffic conditions are you driving through generally or your driving habit, but may be if you drive on lighter traffic roads at non-crawling speed the jerkiness is more subdued?. Anyway you may also test out my above methods over a certain period of time (weeks, not days) to see the after-effects if any.

Best regards to you.😗🙂

[L23]

On 5/4/2022 at 11:12 AM, zenooi said:

Hi guys, can I check if you know of any usb (socket plug) device that can read battery voltage? Just got a battery replacement when car couldn’t start with error “Depress brake pedal”. Change new battery and all fine now, but I would like to manage and monitor the battery if it is required to be changed. 
 

i saw OBD gauge too but abit complex as I only want to monitor battery. Appreciate your feedback 🙏🏻

Typically, the battery can last us for 1.5 years (depending your usage).

What i usually do is i will start to observe the condition of the battery from the 1-year mark especially after each servicing.

By the way, there should be a warning msg when the battery is weak and you should change it immediately or at least bring the car to a workshop for a check. 

[richard_crl032]

Change our car batteries every 2 yrs and avoid more $ as well as anxiety. All test equipment serves only an indication even measuring cranking current that passed can fail next day when aged toward mentioned 2 yrs.

For conti cars with battery in cool rear boot, 3 or even 4 yrs is not unheard of.

Heat kills car batteries and our hot simplepore weather need to be considered when googling.

Cheers.

[zenooi]

@L23 hi thanks for your kind advice. Mine Panasonic lasted 7 months only, no battery management system error, straight to “ Depress brake pedal to start engine” error message. 
 

I don’t use iStop at all, always off after starting my car. Didn’t switch anything on for vacuum, I also switch on engine. Long daily drive of 50-80km. 
 

Now changed to Varta, hope it can last and looking for a device that can use on the cigarette socket to check voltage of battery.