Pisces69 6th Gear November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 9:21 AM, Hjteo said: Pisces, I think Siewss is driving a Mazda 6 with manual gearbox. Siewss, correct me if I am wrong. And with regards to the AD, suggest going to a smaller workshop for another opinion - particularly those that can clean the parts (IACV, TPS, blowby valve etc or get a carb cleaner to clean the throttle body and blowby valve diy etc) instead. Maybe use a Singapore workshop so that you can go back to them. Can check Pisces regular workshop in Yishun. The one I use is in AV. By the way, did the AD do any diagnostics and is there any error code? Ok tks. Mazda. Got it. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pisces69 6th Gear November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 9:28 AM, Kb27 said: I suggest to someone that his problematic idling is caused by bad air filter. He had been using those (useless in filtratoin) stainless steel filter. He took my advice and change back to stock air filter. Then he went to KL, I supposed clear some carbon at the same time and came back. His idling problem appears to be gone...clearing carbon would have helped. But he still wanted me to clean his idling valve anyway, which I did. Ya sometimes e problem cud b caused by several things. U just got to trouble-shoot 1 by 1. maybe AD dont even know what cud b causing problem or ty too lazy to check n clear 1 by 1. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/9/2010 at 12:19 PM, Crazecow said: Going across the causeway to solve a car problem would be the last thing I want to do...... I second that. Today's car are full of electronic gizmos and they control the mechanicals. But the biggest problem I have with WS across the causeway has to do with human integrity. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/10/2010 at 2:58 PM, Plim72 said: try cityauto...they are authorised agent for mazda and from my past experiences with them on my mazda6(5yrs back through), should be ok. ICV getting clogged after a dusty drive is quite a common problem for most cars. Could be other stuffs like dirty MAF, plugs etc...But a failed PCV valve for warranty car on the other hand, IHMO, is rare but you never know...try talking to cityauto and see what they say. i think you can request warranty replacement with them too if i am not wrong... putting car up at the workshop for up to 3 mth to me is simply unacceptable. Normal workshops can do a full auto to manual conversion plus engine and a full color change for 1 mth at the most!! good luck and thanks for your tips on legendary water home over at the other thread. I am driving up this coming school holiday.. oh one thing to add, go easy with the car at the meanwhile..i just did a quick read back with you posting, your car may be misfiring badly... That's a good suggestion. But as authorised agent, they may follow the directive from Mazda Motor to go for parts replacement rather than "repair". However, there are so many possible causes I sure can use some expertise in narrowing down the problem. I really don't relish waiting 3 months for the part to arrive while my engine deteriorate over time from continued used, but AD WS spooked me by telling me that if the cleaning doesn't work, and my car refused to start, and the part will take 3 months to arrive, I'll end up car-less for that period. Legend's great for short stay (too long and it gets boring). Enjoy yourself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/10/2010 at 3:37 PM, Pisces69 said: I think u r right. another cud b a vacuum hose is leaking. Best to get a good mech to look at it n repair. But funny all along engine smooth till he crank while engine running but that sud not cause this problem. Maybe he whack on way to PD n some dirt in fuel line move to idle valve n stuck there causing e problem. I've gotten the car checked twice over. According to the AD WS, the whole fuel system was thoroughly checked but no anormalies were detected after visual checks, compression test and e-diagnostics. I'd presume that the vacuum hose was checked for leakage. The WS then changed the fuel pump because that was the main suspect. Obviously that's the wrong part to replace as the problem did not go away. I went with another family to PD, so for most part of the journey I was on cruise control set at 130kmh till Ayer Keroh, after which I toned down to 120kmh. Maybe whacking could have dislodge that dirt.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/10/2010 at 4:00 PM, Pisces69 said: U mean e mech tested n found nothing wrong n when u start e problem immediately show itself? I wonder if ty dot know how to solve so ty just tell u 'no problem''? Try ask them to replace e idle air control valve n see if problem goes away. Then u hv found e cause already. I actually hv very little confidence in e skills of many mechs at those big ws or AD. The characteristic of the problem goes like this. The engine has to be off for at least 2 hours to experience the "hard-to-start" symptom. The service consultant told me that a little vibration is normal. To me that's obviously not normal, because it was not there before. My car is a bit rare, so the throttlebody which they intend to change needs to be indented from Japan. Thus the wait of 3 months. I get the impression that the AD likes to play safe, and would prefer to change than to repair. Could be their service policy, I'm not sure.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/10/2010 at 4:37 PM, Pisces69 said: As what Ive said b4, most if not all AD n big ws r staffed by incompetent monkeys who r paid a few peanuts everyday. I threw my AD warranty in e dustbin when i bought my car cos i don't hv any confidence in them. I still prefer my old small omo ws who has taken good care of my cars fr abt 15 years already n all of them ran smoothly fr as long as i owned them. My car's still under warranty so I'm restricted to AD or authorised satellite WS. Perhaps it's my luck, but my previous experience with some of the WS outside didn't end too well. I haven't found one that I can trust to keep going back to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 (edited) On 11/11/2010 at 9:21 AM, Hjteo said: Pisces, I think Siewss is driving a Mazda 6 with manual gearbox. Siewss, correct me if I am wrong. And with regards to the AD, suggest going to a smaller workshop for another opinion - particularly those that can clean the parts (IACV, TPS, blowby valve etc or get a carb cleaner to clean the throttle body and blowby valve diy etc) instead. Maybe use a Singapore workshop so that you can go back to them. Can check Pisces regular workshop in Yishun. The one I use is in AV. By the way, did the AD do any diagnostics and is there any error code? I'm driving a Mazda 6 MPS, and yes, with manual gearbox. I may take a bro's earlier advice and try out Cityauto. After all, they are authorised for Mazda, and the mechanics may not have the same restraint as those in the AD WS. The AD did the diagnostic test but found no problem, so I guess no error code to speak of. Edited November 11, 2010 by Siewss Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 1:47 PM, Pisces69 said: Oh ok tks. Looks like i wont b getting a Mazda anytime soon then. Don't rule out Mazda yet. They are generally reliable, and as one bro explained, clogged idle valve is a common ailment (if that's what afflicted my car). My car is currently 85k km old. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pisces69 6th Gear November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 2:26 PM, Siewss said: I've gotten the car checked twice over. According to the AD WS, the whole fuel system was thoroughly checked but no anormalies were detected after visual checks, compression test and e-diagnostics. I'd presume that the vacuum hose was checked for leakage. The WS then changed the fuel pump because that was the main suspect. Obviously that's the wrong part to replace as the problem did not go away. I went with another family to PD, so for most part of the journey I was on cruise control set at 130kmh till Ayer Keroh, after which I toned down to 120kmh. Maybe whacking could have dislodge that dirt.... I wud hv pulled e mech who worked on my car n asked him exactly what he did to diagnose e problem. Dont assume. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pisces69 6th Gear November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 2:33 PM, Siewss said: The characteristic of the problem goes like this. The engine has to be off for at least 2 hours to experience the "hard-to-start" symptom. The service consultant told me that a little vibration is normal. To me that's obviously not normal, because it was not there before. My car is a bit rare, so the throttlebody which they intend to change needs to be indented from Japan. Thus the wait of 3 months. I get the impression that the AD likes to play safe, and would prefer to change than to repair. Could be their service policy, I'm not sure.... So e engine has to cool down b4 e problem shows itself. Maybe e auto-choke function is not working? If e car shakes like an egg-beater, how can a decent mech say its 'normal'. This already shows me e 'quality' of this mech. My cheepo car starts n runs smooth hot r cold. Thats how a modern car sud b. Changing a new part instead of cleaning or repair shows e inexperience of e mech cos he obviously does not know how to clean r repair. Thats why he dont go fr e cheaper option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pisces69 6th Gear November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 (edited) On 11/11/2010 at 2:37 PM, Siewss said: My car's still under warranty so I'm restricted to AD or authorised satellite WS. Perhaps it's my luck, but my previous experience with some of the WS outside didn't end too well. I haven't found one that I can trust to keep going back to. I also need to take some time to find a good, honest n reliable ws. Sometimes i get a good 1 n then a new dishonest / incompetent mech takes over n i hv to start looking around fr a new ws all over again. My present mech is already >50 yrs old n i hope he dont decide to retire soon. Then i wil hv to look fr a good mech all over again. Edited November 11, 2010 by Pisces69 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pisces69 6th Gear November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 2:56 PM, Siewss said: Don't rule out Mazda yet. They are generally reliable, and as one bro explained, clogged idle valve is a common ailment (if that's what afflicted my car). My car is currently 85k km old. But if e AD still cannot solve yr cars problem with all their special diagnostic equip, ty cant b that good. Remember e equip is only as good as e pple using it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamemonster Clutched November 11, 2010 Share November 11, 2010 hi, is your car on electronic throttle ? if yes ... ask AD mech to reset the throttle....that should solve your idle / bad start problem. please pm me if your AD dun know how to reset .. my 2cent Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 3:13 PM, Pisces69 said: So e engine has to cool down b4 e problem shows itself. Maybe e auto-choke function is not working? If e car shakes like an egg-beater, how can a decent mech say its 'normal'. This already shows me e 'quality' of this mech. My cheepo car starts n runs smooth hot r cold. Thats how a modern car sud b. Changing a new part instead of cleaning or repair shows e inexperience of e mech cos he obviously does not know how to clean r repair. Thats why he dont go fr e cheaper option. On the contrary, the e-auto choke (controlled by ECU right?) works well. Cold start is less of an issue that warm start. Usually early in the morning, the engine will rev straight to 2krpm once fired up, and drops to ~ 1krpm after a tens of seconds. But my engine tends to remain very hot even after a long while after turning off, so if I try to start 2 hours after I last turn off, I'll encounter the long cranking problem. However, I've noticed that even cold start these past 2 days is starting to take longer than usual I'm fine with the idea changing parts rather than repair, but that's provided the parts are available. But I also expect that in the unfavorable position of part unavailability, there should be a better alternative than wait for parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 3:18 PM, Pisces69 said: I also need to take some time to find a good, honest n reliable ws. Sometimes i get a good 1 n then a new dishonest / incompetent mech takes over n i hv to start looking around fr a new ws all over again. My present mech is already >50 yrs old n i hope he dont decide to retire soon. Then i wil hv to look fr a good mech all over again. Yes. Reliable WS + honest mechanics are few and far between. So if you have found one, you've discovered a gem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siewss 1st Gear November 11, 2010 Author Share November 11, 2010 (edited) On 11/11/2010 at 4:59 PM, Lamemonster said: hi, is your car on electronic throttle ? if yes ... ask AD mech to reset the throttle....that should solve your idle / bad start problem. please pm me if your AD dun know how to reset .. my 2cent Hi, my car's on e-throttle, and that's one of the main reason cited for going the non-repair route. I was told it's senstive and cleaning the valve may have dire consequences. Is resetting the throttle a mechanical adjustment? The AD mech actually reset the ECU, which obviously is the incorrect solution. I'll call them up today regarding throttle reset - thanks for the tip. Edited November 11, 2010 by Siewss Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kb27 Supersonic November 12, 2010 Share November 12, 2010 On 11/11/2010 at 11:27 PM, Siewss said: On the contrary, the e-auto choke (controlled by ECU right?) works well. Cold start is less of an issue that warm start. Usually early in the morning, the engine will rev straight to 2krpm once fired up, and drops to ~ 1krpm after a tens of seconds. But my engine tends to remain very hot even after a long while after turning off, so if I try to start 2 hours after I last turn off, I'll encounter the long cranking problem. However, I've noticed that even cold start these past 2 days is starting to take longer than usual I'm fine with the idea changing parts rather than repair, but that's provided the parts are available. But I also expect that in the unfavorable position of part unavailability, there should be a better alternative than wait for parts. I didn't follow all your posts, but you seemed to have a problem with starting engine after a heat soak. That would point to a fuel problem. Perhaps a fuel line is run too close to the hot exhaust or something. http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/t.../ques093_4.html ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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