MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 Hi bros, Yesterday my ride's engine died repeatedly when it was idling. After re-crank also died. The idling speed keep dropping unless I stepped on the accelerator. Sent my car to workshop and they called me telling me the throttle valve needs replacement and will cost $600. Told me if replace throttle body will be $1200 (which is not needed). Just want to know from the experts if $600 is too ex to replace the throttle valve? Got carrot? Appreciate your response :) ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowrider 2nd Gear October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 throttle valve = butterfly valve $600 just for that? expensive! btw, what kind a car you drive? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good-Carbuyer 1st Gear October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 Hi bros, Yesterday my ride's engine died repeatedly when it was idling. After re-crank also died. The idling speed keep dropping unless I stepped on the accelerator. Sent my car to workshop and they called me telling me the throttle valve needs replacement and will cost $600. Told me if replace throttle body will be $1200 (which is not needed). Just want to know from the experts if $600 is too ex to replace the throttle valve? Got carrot? Appreciate your response :) Check ignition system if in order (you may need a Vehicle Mechanic) Check aspiration system if in order (you may need a Vehicle Mechanic) Check fuel system if in order (you may need a Vehicle Mechanic) Just curious, your car using carburettor? If yes check any cheaper to change to SU carburettor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 I'm driving a Mit Lancer GLX.. 4 yrs plus old. So it's ex? If that's the case then I won't change there. Any recommendations on good workshop to check? Ya $600 is really steep. Not market price is it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini-itx2010 Neutral Newbie October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 Sounds like chop carrot head....... I thought most engines should have a seperate idle control valve? Some may be built into the throttle body. Suggest you get a WS to mod it to use a seperate bosch control valve. Then replace will be much easier next time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kb27 Supersonic October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 I'm driving a Mit Lancer GLX.. 4 yrs plus old. So it's ex? If that's the case then I won't change there. Any recommendations on good workshop to check? Ya $600 is really steep. Not market price is it? Get the idling valve clean up first. Some may be choked bcoz some people use "free" flow or badly performing air filter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 Get the idling valve clean up first. Some may be choked bcoz some people use "free" flow or badly performing air filter. What does free flow means? I just changed air filter the last time probably 3 months ago. Hmm so i can ask them to clean first? To me also seem like carrot. I now sourcing for another WS but then most say must check first. Don't know reliable anot also. Damn headache. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 Btw, my ride is 4 yrs plus old. Is it the normal time frame to replace this? I'll check with the WS to see if they can clean the Air Control Valve for me first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kb27 Supersonic October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 What does free flow means? I just changed air filter the last time probably 3 months ago. Hmm so i can ask them to clean first? To me also seem like carrot. I now sourcing for another WS but then most say must check first. Don't know reliable anot also. Damn headache. I meant those type of "high" flow air filter. I just clean out one using stainless steel filter. There were lot of black dust settled on the opening of the throttle body. You don't see this kind of dust for those using stock air filter. Who knows what else passed through into the engine. Also the idling valve was full of soot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 I meant those type of "high" flow air filter. I just clean out one using stainless steel filter. There were lot of black dust settled on the opening of the throttle body. You don't see this kind of dust for those using stock air filter. Who knows what else passed through into the engine. Also the idling valve was full of soot. Btw, the WS called to tell me they cleaned the throttle for me and now the issue is solved. (Morning diagnosed wrongly) Most likely not enough rev-ing on my engine all these while. Carbon trapped. Now the charges is just a fraction of the $600 they told me this morning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zyrofillica 1st Gear October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 Btw, the WS called to tell me they cleaned the throttle for me and now the issue is solved. (Morning diagnosed wrongly) Most likely not enough rev-ing on my engine all these while. Carbon trapped. Now the charges is just a fraction of the $600 they told me this morning i got my tb and intake valves cleaned for $150. how much ur workshop charge? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 i got my tb and intake valves cleaned for $150. how much ur workshop charge? They charged $130 before GST. Luckily about the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 Need some expert advise again. I took back my car tonight and realised that it is not exactly ok. The idling speed is fine when the aircon is off. But when I on it, I could see a 1 bar dip in the rpm and could sense some slight vibration; just like before the car will stall kind of feeling. But the engine is still running when this happens - Approx 500 rpm. Then at certain point, the rpm will move up slightly to about 900 rpm which I find it good. (no stall feeling) Somehow it does not feel good and I'm worried it will die off anytime again. (Don't want to be stucked on the road tommorrow) I read online that it could be due to the idling motor that needs replacement. But then I am unsure if really this is the problem. Any bros out there driving a Lancer GLX and has anyone ever faced this problem? Please help~~ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini-itx2010 Neutral Newbie October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 Btw, my ride is 4 yrs plus old. Is it the normal time frame to replace this? I'll check with the WS to see if they can clean the Air Control Valve for me first. Absolutely not. The Idle valve and throttle body can last till your scrap your car. Try cleaning it first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini-itx2010 Neutral Newbie October 18, 2010 Share October 18, 2010 Need some expert advise again. I took back my car tonight and realised that it is not exactly ok. The idling speed is fine when the aircon is off. But when I on it, I could see a 1 bar dip in the rpm and could sense some slight vibration; just like before the car will stall kind of feeling. But the engine is still running when this happens - Approx 500 rpm. Then at certain point, the rpm will move up slightly to about 900 rpm which I find it good. (no stall feeling) Somehow it does not feel good and I'm worried it will die off anytime again. (Don't want to be stucked on the road tommorrow) I read online that it could be due to the idling motor that needs replacement. But then I am unsure if really this is the problem. Any bros out there driving a Lancer GLX and has anyone ever faced this problem? Please help~~ When you on the aircon, its normal for RPM to drop due to load. Then the ECU will detect and compensate and thus your RPM will go back to 900 again. However, this drop in RPM should last a very short time only. Something like 0.5sec. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLS Clutched October 18, 2010 Author Share October 18, 2010 When you on the aircon, its normal for RPM to drop due to load. Then the ECU will detect and compensate and thus your RPM will go back to 900 again. However, this drop in RPM should last a very short time only. Something like 0.5sec. For mine, the drop last about 1 min or so and then goes to 900 where it will fluctuate again. It is during the time when it drops, I can feel the slight vibration of it like dying/stalling. But it does not stall. This feeling is terrible. Like wanna sneeze but cannot sneeze. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggy83sg Clutched October 19, 2010 Share October 19, 2010 hmm.. scenario: 1. if u park ur car at carpark, engage either P or N, let it idle few min, den try on/ off aircon, adjust fan speed. c got vibrate anot. 2. if not, engage into D or watever gear (handbrake up), let it idle n try on/ off aircon, adjust fan speed. c got vibrate anot. 3. determine the sound from engine. my car has the vibration also last time, feel like engage manual half clutch let go too early engine wan 2 stall like tat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini-itx2010 Neutral Newbie October 20, 2010 Share October 20, 2010 For mine, the drop last about 1 min or so and then goes to 900 where it will fluctuate again. It is during the time when it drops, I can feel the slight vibration of it like dying/stalling. But it does not stall. This feeling is terrible. Like wanna sneeze but cannot sneeze. Hmm.... maybe the ECU is unable to react or compensate for the change in engine load fast enough. Suggest you bring the car back to them to check. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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